So started working on dismantling the front end to do a Tuff Country leveling install on my '12 Limited 4x4. Had zero problems until trying to remove the axle nut. The threads were horribly rusted thanks to being stuck in the NEeast rust-belt.
Anybody else have issues with theirs? I tried soaking it in PB blaster over night, applied heat from a propane torch, electric impact , breaker bar....nada! I got both sides moving but neither would get any closer than about a 1/4" to the end of the threads. Horribly disappointed now. Kind of looks like the threads are somewhat stripped on both sides now from where I was able to back the nuts off.
I am going to be off to the dealer on this one I'm afraid $$$.
Whenever I have rusted threads like that I try to use a wire wheel on a drill motor to clean them up. Then PB plaster. Then I work the nut back and forth (loosen a little then tighten, repeat) to clean the threads and avoid a buildup of rust in the nut threads that will keep the nut from coming off.
Had the same issue yesterday. I was removing an axle nut I had put on just two weeks ago. It broke loose but would get stuck halfway into the threads. It snapped one torque wrench and bent the other. Finally I got a solid non reversible breaker bar and got it off. Here's a tip:bend down and grab the breaker bar and then push yourself up with your legs while turning the wrench with your arms.
That's a great tip. I think in my case it might be past the point of no return though. Both threads are horribly rusted, particularly the driver side which has started pitting through all my efforts.
That's a great tip. I think in my case it might be past the point of no return though. Both threads are horribly rusted, particularly the driver side which has started pitting through all my efforts.
You would need to pull the spindle and then yank the other side out of the differential. Then you can take it to a machine shop and they will be able to get it off
can you get a cut-off wheel to it? If the nut is not useable anymore why not take the cut-off wheel and cut a side of the nut off to relieve the pressure on the threads.
Rather than trying to do the entire job with a cut-off wheel, use the wheel to take it down, but stay away from the axle inside..... then, again with the PB Blaster, wire brush, possibly heat, dance, stick a chisel into your cut and try to hammer it in enough to start spreading the nut.
I usually make at least two cuts on opposite sides, even better is 3-4, plus the chisel.
I couldn't agree more. I basically have just written off two otherwise completely serviceable half-shafts because of it. I have a bottle on Permatex anti-seize on order so the threads on the new ones don't end looking the same!
I absolutely want to take a cutoff wheel to it; and believe me I thought long and hard about doing it. Not afraid per se, but I also don't want to be calling for a tow to the shop if goes totally south on me either. Calmer heads prevailed (the wife) who said just take it in. Appointment is on Thursday; throwing in the towel on this one.
SUCCESS!... Sort of... The trick was I took a 3.5" coarse wire wheel in my corded drill to the rusted axle threads along with some more Blaster and came off nice and easy with my electric impact. Problem is the axle nut more or less stripped what was left of the threads anyway. But that is done along some nice and $Brand Freaking New$ front half shafts I installed...what a pain. Still haven't done the leveling kit after all this either.
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