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  #13  
Old 02-02-2016, 08:59 PM
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Re: Brake Pedal Goes In Too Far? AIR in lines

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Originally Posted by jspittler View Post
I bled my brakes today using the standard "tube into bottom of bottle" method. In the end, I could not detect ANY difference in the braking or pedal travel. Since I did this myself, I can't say whether or not bubbles came out during the procedure, but I continued on each brake until the fluid went from the original dark color to the light color of the new fluid. I didn't ever go too low in the main reservoir, nor do I believe that air was able to go back in through the bleed line.

I wonder if there is any other place that air might be hiding? I saw something on YouTube saying that if you actually ran the reservoir dry, air could get into a place that was more difficult to remove. As I said in the first post, this vehicle is "new to me" as of a few weeks ago, so I don't know the history of anything prior to that.

Any ideas? Are there any special things that must be done when bleeding a WK2?

Thanks,
nothing overly special but a dealer can activate the ABS pump using their computers which will help get rid of any extra air.

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  #14  
Old 02-02-2016, 10:23 PM
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Re: Brake Pedal Goes In Too Far? AIR in lines

You may have air in the proportioning valve. I have read that manual bleeding of modern systems should not be attempted. If you got air in the control valves you may not be able to get it out without a pressure bleeder. I don't think a vacuum type will do it either once air is in the valves. I could be incorrect on that. You might want to take it somewhere that can pressure bleed it. I think you should google your year and read about any gotchas at the minimum. The days of a bottle and rubber hose are gone on most cars. Also you generally do the closest wheel to the master then the opposite side on the rear, This could vary so it would be a good idea to verify the sequence.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jspittler View Post
I bled my brakes today using the standard "tube into bottom of bottle" method. In the end, I could not detect ANY difference in the braking or pedal travel. Since I did this myself, I can't say whether or not bubbles came out during the procedure, but I continued on each brake until the fluid went from the original dark color to the light color of the new fluid. I didn't ever go too low in the main reservoir, nor do I believe that air was able to go back in through the bleed line.

I wonder if there is any other place that air might be hiding? I saw something on YouTube saying that if you actually ran the reservoir dry, air could get into a place that was more difficult to remove. As I said in the first post, this vehicle is "new to me" as of a few weeks ago, so I don't know the history of anything prior to that.

Any ideas? Are there any special things that must be done when bleeding a WK2?

Thanks,
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Old 02-03-2016, 12:07 AM
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Re: Brake Pedal Goes In Too Far?

One other thing I just thought of , are you sure you tighten all the bleed screws? May want to take a look with a flashlight to check for fluid on the inside of the wheels
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Old 02-03-2016, 01:26 PM
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Re: Brake Pedal Goes In Too Far?

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Originally Posted by filterking View Post
One other thing I just thought of , are you sure you tighten all the bleed screws? May want to take a look with a flashlight to check for fluid on the inside of the wheels
I am sure I tightened the screws fully after bleeding, but just to be sure, I just did the sanity check you suggested.

I will probably take it to the dealer at this point.
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  #17  
Old 02-04-2016, 03:47 PM
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Re: Brake Pedal Goes In Too Far?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jspittler View Post
I am sure I tightened the screws fully after bleeding, but just to be sure, I just did the sanity check you suggested.

I will probably take it to the dealer at this point.
take it to the dealer

they will activate the ABS pump etc and basically open 1 line at a time.

ABS pump can pump way faster than a peddle and they prob vacuum pressure bled.
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  #18  
Old 02-04-2016, 04:56 PM
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Re: Brake Pedal Goes In Too Far?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jspittler View Post
I am sure I tightened the screws fully after bleeding, but just to be sure, I just did the sanity check you suggested.

I will probably take it to the dealer at this point.
Are you bleeding from the reservoir down to the wheels, or bleeding from each wheel back to the reservoir? The latter--wheel bleed using a small reverse bleeder pump you can get at parts stores is far more effective at getting rid of residual bubbles in the lines.

If you can reverse bleed from all wheels and get no tiny foam, bubbles, etc. [a buddy helps] in the reservoir, you might want to see if your master cylinder has a problem.
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