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Differential Service Interval on 2014?

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2014
32K views 22 replies 11 participants last post by  The Evil Twin 
#1 ·
Hi all and looks like a great community. I was a "lurker" before picking up my 2014 Overland V6 (gas). Dealer is telling me at 24k miles (where I'm at) that I need to change the fluid in each of the front and rear differentials at over $100 each, but I can't verify this with the user manual. Thoughts?
 
#5 ·
So just hit 38k and due for a service is there any updated thinking on diff changes? This is a 14 Overland and was going to do rear diff this change and fronts next. I never take it off road and get no snow here -- real light duty housewife stuff. Thanks!
 
#7 ·
here is the scoop.

Your diffs and t-case shed a lot of metal during the first 5-10K miles. Amsoil had an old white paper where they did testing, and oil analysis. They had a conttol group they didnt change the gear oil and a couple test groups where they changed the gear oil early at 5K and 20K and then sample them all at 50 K and then 100K.

the control group had a lot of iron and what not flaoting around, very high ppm count.

My self on all my cars and trucks, I dump the fluids early and refill with synthetic.

On WK2 it is very easy since the diffs have a fill plug and drain plug, not the older covers to remove/clean up and reseal.

I hammered my jeep the 1st 100 miles to seat the rings. I drained all the fluids except the trans. I changed the gear oils and t-case again at 1500 mils,
In both cases there was a lot of pearl in the fluids I drained out, so I know it is a wise thing to do, since you dont want the metals floating around. I plan to dump them again next spring. Hopefully by then they t-case and diffs will be fully broken in and at the point I can extend the drain intervals to 36K to protect my warranty,I have the lifetime maxcare.

see attached pics, shows gear oil and trans fluid from t-case, lots of silver pearl floating aroung in the "soup", do you really want that crap in your diff?

I can change the fluid in about 15 min with a outboard lower drive pump which threads onto a qt bottle. By some 75w-90 GL5 synthetic or if you choose the Mopar 75w-85 fluid. I used Redline sinceI have 5 gallon pale of it.
 

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#15 ·
I know it's an old post from Benn0 but that info is incorrect for NA versions according to the FSM.
Schedule A would be inspect level every 24k miles up till at least 120k miles (I didn't go further). Never calls to change it.
Schedule B calls for changing it if using for taxi, towing, etc.

It takes an hour to do and that includes the time it takes to get the box off the porch from AMSOIL and make coffee. So why not do it.
 
#11 ·
Manual calls for mopar gear oil 75w-85 which costs $45 per quart. What do you guys use?

Can I use 75w-90? Seems like 85 is not as common.

Can anybody recommend a good hand pump as well?


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#12 · (Edited)
Manual calls for mopar gear oil 75w-85 which costs $45 per quart. What do you guys use?

Can I use 75w-90? Seems like 85 is not as common.

Can anybody recommend a good hand pump as well?


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I used the mopar75w85 but I think many on here have used the the 75w-90. just make sure it meets the spec and if you have ELSD that it has the friction modifier in it.

this one worked fin for me.
http://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-L...TF8&qid=1456764848&sr=8-1&keywords=quart+pump
 
#13 · (Edited)
I just performed the service on the diffs and transfer case this past weekend at 37k miles. The rear definitely needed to be changed out and probably should have been done much earlier. It was very black and very shiny. I think 25k is probably a good time to do the rear.

The front diff wasn't too bad and could have gone for another 10k-15k miles. I would do the front at the same time as the rear but keep in that if you have the skid plate, it will have to come off. At least it is only held on by four bolts, so easy enough to take off.

The transfer case was still completely clear, well red since its ATF4, and I definitely could have gone much longer on tham that. Again, if you have the skid plate, it will have to come off. This one is held on by five bolts, if I remember correctly. It helps if you have another person to put it back on though I was able to reinstall it by myself.

Edit: I used mopar fluids and I paid about $38 per quart for the diffs and $7 for ATF4 for the transfer case. I bought three quarts of each, ended up using 2 quarts even for the diffs and a little over 2 quarts for the transfer case.
 
#18 ·
Text Font Line Number Document

See attached from the 2014 owners manual. It seems to me for front diff 75w140 gear oil is recommended. For rear 75w90 if you have elsd or 75w85 if you dont.

Seems a bit different from what is posted on wk2jeeps.com. Additionally as somebody posted I don't see anything about changing the oil under normal usage.


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#19 ·
See attached from the 2014 owners manual. It seems to me for front diff 75w140 gear oil is recommended. For rear 75w90 if you have elsd or 75w85 if you dont.

Seems a bit different from what is posted on wk2jeeps.com. Additionally as somebody posted I don't see anything about changing the oil under normal usage.

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Check the revison of the owners manual you are looking at. There are 8 revisions on the 2014 GC manual. Make sure you are on the 8th. The service manual for 2014 states 75w85 for the front and the rear and of course friction modifier if you have elsd rear
 
#20 ·
Good point. Will do that.

I just did rear diff @25k miles. What came out was scary - very dark goo ... Glad that I did it. Will do front as well. Rear was very easy to do with a cheap hand pump.




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#21 ·
I also checked the latest owners manual (8th edition) and indeed 75w85 is recommended for front and rear (w elsd and not). That being said since they recommended earlier 75w90 in rear and 75w140 in front therefore it seems that using 75w90 is ok.

Guessing that change here was dictated by profit margin. I bet you if 75w85 would be stocked by car parts places they would come up with 75w87.5.


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#22 ·
Did transfer case this weekend @ 29K miles. Actually to my surprised the fluid that came out was not bad but wasn't great either. Probably could have went another 10-20K. The fluid definitely looked dark and there was a some silver things floating around.

Eventhough I didn't have to be changed right now I am glad that I did and would advise everybody to do the same. Super easy.

One thing though ... transfer case took about 2.2 quarts so a bit over (filled until fluid started to spill back from the fill hole). The spec calls for just under 2 quarts, just wondering if I overfilled or something ...

As far as skid plates are concerned. The trick is to loosen certain bolts (the ones that alow adjustment) and just slid the plate off instead of dropping it to the ground. Than to put it back in you just slide it back in and reinstall the reminding screw. Very easy to do once you have the technique covered.
 
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