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Old 08-17-2015, 09:19 AM
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Lame (but quick) question about 2012 3.6L oil change

I can't believe I'm asking an oil change question... forgive me, I've changed oil for over 20 years... and had to break down on this question...

Working with a 2012 GC 3.6L Overland.

Drained like normal, went to change filter and see that the "design" is no longer traditional... no big deal. Pull filter and went to install new unit and just happen to notice an o-ring fall from the box. I didnt recall seeing an o-ring on the old unit... I double checked everything to see if it was stuck somewhere, etc. Nothing on the old setup.

It made sense to use an o-ring though, so I put it on, but when I went to tighten, it was starting to "squeeze" out from alignment. Basically, it just didnt seem right.

I noticed the cap for the filter listed a torque spec of 25lbs. With the o-ring on, I only got to 10+lbs before it started to deform. At just under 20lbs, the o-ring was bulging out.

I decided to leave the o-ring off (pending research) and was able to get a clean torque at 25lbs without the o-ring. Everything seemed fine.

After looking online... everything says the o-ring is needed. But I never had one to start with. I get that it may have been a previous install error though. I bought the car used from a dealer with low miles and had a full history of maintainence at THE SAME dealer... oil changes and all.

I see the filters changed around 2014 models... whats the deal with this o-ring on the 2012 models?

Thanks,

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Old 08-17-2015, 09:51 AM
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Re: Lame (but quick) question about 2012 3.6L oil change

I don't think the oil filter is 25lbs, I thought it was something like 10-15lbs. I had an '11 and now a '15, they look and operate the same. I just make mine snug, don't use a torque wrench at all. You might get a leak without the o-ring or damage the cap by over tightening it.
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Old 08-17-2015, 10:23 AM
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Re: Lame (but quick) question about 2012 3.6L oil change

Thx... I'm not one to normally torque something like an oil filter... I've always just snugged down on them. But when I saw this new setup, o-rings, etc... I figured I'd humor the intended process.

I saved the o-ring, I think I'll just reinstall (snug tighten) and keep an eye on things for a bit.

Thanks
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Old 08-17-2015, 06:58 PM
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Re: Lame (but quick) question about 2012 3.6L oil change

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigChiefJD View Post
I noticed the cap for the filter listed a torque spec of 25lbs. With the o-ring on, I only got to 10+lbs before it started to deform. At just under 20lbs, the o-ring was bulging out.

I decided to leave the o-ring off (pending research) and was able to get a clean torque at 25lbs without the o-ring. Everything seemed fine.

After looking online... everything says the o-ring is needed. But I never had one to start with. I get that it may have been a previous install error though. I bought the car used from a dealer with low miles and had a full history of maintainence at THE SAME dealer... oil changes and all.

I see the filters changed around 2014 models... whats the deal with this o-ring on the 2012 models?

Thanks,
The 2012 V6 oil filter torque is 25Nm or 18 foot pounds, so you over-tightened it.

See the attached pic ... are you putting the o-ring on the item labeled #2?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg filter.jpg (102.5 KB, 13 views)
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Old 08-17-2015, 07:38 PM
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Re: Lame (but quick) question about 2012 3.6L oil change

Newtoncd8... you nailed it.

I actually fixed it afew hours ago... and the problem I found with the o-ring being deformed was the position (I had it right under the lip). Since the old filter never had an o-ring, I didnt have anything to base it from. I found the "notch" this time and it fit fine. Your pic also shows the notch. Thx

I was using nm for the torque the first go round, just used to using ft/lbs. My torque bar has a scale for both on top each other... just not used to nm.

Thanks guys...

For anyone that ever wondered... Yes, you can remove the filter without draining the oil. Pull fill cap first.
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