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lifter tap

3K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  moparado 
#1 ·
on my 14 v6 gc when I cold start the vehicle it sounds like a lifter tap noise,only lasts for about 2-3 seconds,,,,,normal?

I have 2900 miles on it and bought it new,oil is fine
 
#2 ·
on my 14 v6 gc when I cold start the vehicle it sounds like a lifter tap noise,only lasts for about 2-3 seconds,,,,,normal? I have 2900 miles on it and bought it new,oil is fine
This past weekend I heard it for the first and only time. Oil change was done 2 wks ago (maybe I should check it, just in case). Mileage is 4300. I was on vacation in the mountains, but it was in a garage for the night. It's always in a garage so not sure sure what that was about. I may remote start it tomorrow and stand near the front and listen
 
#3 ·
ya its been doing it for about 3 weeks now
 
#4 ·
anyone else or is it just us two?
 
#7 ·
Lifter tap is usually caused by hydraulic lifters leaking the oil out of them overnight.

Even if you were down a quart it would not cause the start up tap.

Oil Quality can make a huge difference in WORN lifters.

If you are having Dino oil put in, I'd try Full Synthetic and try a few brands and weights (all within Jeep recommended specs of course).

If they are tapping this early they will be tapping a lot when it gets older.

My old 2002 GC 4.0L developed a tap at 120K miles.

I always ran mobile 1 in it.

I switched to high mileage Mobile 1, same weight and it stopped the tap for like another 50K miles.

Then I switched to Castrol Titanium Edge (Recommended by Dealer), same weight and it stopped the tap until I sold it at 227K. It was very common for the 4.0L to tap after 120K. But I kept it to minimum by upgrading the oil a couple times.

A new car should not tap at all. IMHO.
 
#8 ·
I've had it happen to me twice in our 2014 GC Summit 5.7L with only a couple of thousand miles on it. I was what the heck was that crap. I changed the oil with Castrol Syn Blend, since its a new engine and installed a K&N oil filter. Never had this happen on any of the other 30+ cars I have owned, Ford, Dodge, Chevy BMW, Porsche, Nissan, Subaru, Acura, Kia, VW, Toyota. Not one of these brands has ever done this before, sure hope it doesn't continue. Makes me wonder how long the engine is going to last.
 
#9 ·
its just irritating,now I have 3000 miles on it and it does it periodically,ill wait till 5k when the oil change is due,i have other issues to complain about too lol,such as the rattling door panels with loud music the hatch handle being bowed and I might try the second version off the tranny flash,first helped a lot,ive had 3 other gc Cherokees and no issues like these ,shoulda waited awhile
 
#10 ·
Let me share my story of the "Hemi Tick" with you. I purchased my 2011 JGC Limited 5.7L in November of 2019. About 8 months after the purchase my water pump bearings failed and it sprayed coolant around the drive pulley all over the inside of my engine bay. By the time I could limp the JGC home it had gotten well above normal operating temperature. I didn't see the temp gauge reach the upper limit but it was well above where I would like to see it. I have read that one possible cause of the lifters failing is if the engine overheats causing the oil viscosity to break down. Well about 4-6 months after I replaced the Water Pump I started noticing the dreaded tick. I started looking for the cause and since it usually went away after the JGC warmed up I felt it was more than likely an exhaust leak. Then back in December of 2020 the check engine light came on and I started noticing a miss in the motor. The MIL was for the #5 cylinder missfire. I started the normal troubleshooting where I swapped coil packs, plugs, and even the injector to see if the problem would follow one of those components. When it did not, I pulled the valve cover on that side, and with all the injectors electrical connections disconnected I had my wife crank the engine over a few times. It was then clearly visible that the #5 cylinder intake valve was barely opening. Well new lifters and camshaft it was. I ordered the parts (aftermarket as MOPAR parts were on backorder) and once the arrived in January the repair work began. I did the repairs in my driveway with no real issues to speak of as far as removing and reinstalling the parts. One thing to remember is the head bolts are "torque to yield" so they are single use only. Once you remove the cylinder head you have to use new head bolts. Luckily the kit I ordered came with all new gaskets, new head bolts, new lifters, new cam, and exhaust manifold heat shields. While I was at it I replaced the Cam position sensor. Unfortunately I had one oil pan bolt strip at the front where it bolts into the timing chain cover (still need to address that one). The new lifters were very noisy to start with even though I soaked them in oil for 24 hrs before installation. I made the mistake of adding Lucas Oil additive when I changed the oil after and this caused the engine oil pressure to be way below acceptable levels. So much so that the MIL was again coming on and indicating low oil pressure. I changed the oil and filter once again without the additives and this corrected the pressure problem to a slight degree. It was still much lower than what I was comfortable with so I then started thinking about having to change the oil pump. First I decided to swap out the metering valve under the intake manifold and sure enough the oil pressure returned to where it should have been all along. I also had an issue with the rocker arms center bolts working loose after head installation and this caused a bit of racket before I removed the valve covers and discovered they were the issue. I torqued them down once again (this time with some locktight orange) and so far they have stayed snug as a bug. The lifters are starting to quiet down now (after about 750 miles) so I will consider this lifter issue closed for now. I guess what I am getting at is that I cannot emphasize enough the importance of watching your coolant level and not letting the vehicle overheat and also making sure you change your oil and filter every 3000 miles. I just completed changing the front and rear diff fluids and will be doing the transmission and transfer case fluids next week. I love the JGC and plan to drive it until the wheels fall off and then put them back on to drive it some more!
 
#11 ·
The V6 ticking for a second or two at first start up is unfortunately normal.
Many threads here on the subject.

My V6 ticks for a second or two at first start up.
Probable causes are the recommended watery oil, possibly a lousy drain back valve in the filter assembly, complicated oil pump, etc.

If the ticking persists long after startup then i'd be concerned.
 
#14 ·
"...Did not know we were back in school.."
"...If you don't like what I wrote or how I wrote it, then don't read it ..."
Yep, i don't know what you wrote because i didn't read that solid block of text.
Don't need a headache.

A tip, go back to school and learn proper sentence and paragraph structure if you want more replies to your posts.
 
#15 ·
Yep, i don't know what you wrote because i didn't read that solid block of text.
Don't need a headache.

A tip, go back to school and learn proper sentence and paragraph structure if you want more replies to your posts.
Thank you for the tip youngster. Just to be clear, I have two Bachelor's degrees and a Masters so I don't think I will be going back to school. Cyber Bullies don't bother me. If the information contained in my post helps someone then great! If not that is ok as well. Have a nice day and hopefully your "headache" passes.
 
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