I hate for something like this to be my second post... A little pissed about it as well....
My 2012 WK2 3.6 V6 is leaking oil, my old man saw some spots on the driveway, figured it was from one of the older cars. Informed me that only the new one has been in that direct spot.
So I get home from my shop at 10:30 tonight, grab some cardboard, a flash light, and slide underneath it in this sh*t weather we are having right now on the Island.
During inspection, I see oil coming from where the engine meets up @ the transmission.
Yah....
Going upwards on both sides (the mate point between engine and tranny) I can see seepage spreading directly from the seem.
Now im thinking Somthing along the lines of a rear main seal... Only way oil can get on the side of the housing like that is if its being flung by a flywheel, or well that's the most common thing Ive seen. It also looks like the aluminum casting seems cracked by looking at the pictures.
Figured Id post up the pics I took while under the truck.. I would like some input from other members that are techs @ dealers.
Going to the dealer in 7 hours to have them rack it up, and inspect it. and If its the seal, im expecting to do an even swap for another WK2 (its f**king 2 days old...) No way in hell am I taking it back if this is the case. 4-6 Hour book time job. If im not mistaken, i got 3 days in New York to process a swap.
Oh and for reference: Testing and Inspection on the subject matter.
Source: Alldata 10.40
Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal: Testing and Inspection
REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to
cylinder block mating surfaces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crankcase as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or
scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or scratches. The crankshaft seal flange
is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled. Refer to appropriate testing., under the
Oil Leak row, for components inspections on possible causes and corrections.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, See: Service and Repair/Removal.
:banghead:
My 2012 WK2 3.6 V6 is leaking oil, my old man saw some spots on the driveway, figured it was from one of the older cars. Informed me that only the new one has been in that direct spot.
So I get home from my shop at 10:30 tonight, grab some cardboard, a flash light, and slide underneath it in this sh*t weather we are having right now on the Island.
During inspection, I see oil coming from where the engine meets up @ the transmission.
Yah....
Going upwards on both sides (the mate point between engine and tranny) I can see seepage spreading directly from the seem.
Now im thinking Somthing along the lines of a rear main seal... Only way oil can get on the side of the housing like that is if its being flung by a flywheel, or well that's the most common thing Ive seen. It also looks like the aluminum casting seems cracked by looking at the pictures.
Figured Id post up the pics I took while under the truck.. I would like some input from other members that are techs @ dealers.
Going to the dealer in 7 hours to have them rack it up, and inspect it. and If its the seal, im expecting to do an even swap for another WK2 (its f**king 2 days old...) No way in hell am I taking it back if this is the case. 4-6 Hour book time job. If im not mistaken, i got 3 days in New York to process a swap.
Oh and for reference: Testing and Inspection on the subject matter.
Source: Alldata 10.40
Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal: Testing and Inspection
REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to
cylinder block mating surfaces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crankcase as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or
scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or scratches. The crankshaft seal flange
is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled. Refer to appropriate testing., under the
Oil Leak row, for components inspections on possible causes and corrections.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, See: Service and Repair/Removal.
:banghead: