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  #205  
Old 09-17-2015, 02:32 PM
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Re: Sloshing sound from under the car

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Originally Posted by lolablue11 View Post
Just curious, I have a 2011 JC and have just now discovered the hvac drain issue. I took copies of this forum and the pictures into the dealership and after two days of no response, they finally agreed that the hvac drain was the causing the sloshing and wet carpet on the drivers side. Mine is no longer under warranty, so I'm wondering what you said to Chrysler, etc. to see if I have any change of getting reimbursed for what is obviously a manufactures defect? I'm also concerned about mold, etc. because the dealership is not willing to do anything to the carpet, etc., especially since the warranty has expired. Am I SOL? How is this not a recall issue with it affecting so many cars for so long?!
I'm Having the same issues with my 2012, I noticed the sloshing sound over 2 months ago. took it to the dealer yesterday and they determined that the HVAC drain is the issue and is filling into the compartment under the drivers seat. my certified warranty denied the claim, saying its not that's covered. I've already paid $120 to diagnosis the problem not they want to charge me almost $700 to fix the issue. they want to remover the seats and the carpet, fix the line so it drains properly.

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  #206  
Old 09-18-2015, 02:38 PM
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Re: Sloshing sound from under the car

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Originally Posted by 2011JGC View Post
I have the same problem. Took mine to the dealer today. They found about 5 gallons of water under the drivers side floor board. They are baffled but said the air condition drain pipe had a kink in it. Also check your carpet under the drivers side floor mat and see if its wet. I had a very small area around the floor mat hook that was soaked. They had the drivers side seat removed and the carpet pulled up and will let the area dry out over the weekend.
I am having this same exact issue. Was it definitely caused by an AC line? my drivers side carpet is soaked and i pulled enough of the carpet back to see the rusty colored gallons of water sitting in the floorboards. i have heard the sloshing sound for two years and always thought it was the gas tank. Google more on this and you'll find multiple people who have the issue. Oh, and ever had an issue with your Quadra Lift if you have it? The QL control module is under the driver seat....just above where the water is in the floorboards. My jeep has been in 6 times now (just got it back yesterday) for quadra lift air suspension issues. Everything from removing all of the seat to look for kinked air lines to two new compressors. Chrysler covered both compressors which was awesome, but i am guessing this water issue that some are having is the culprite to some QL control modules going bad. Just my opinion. Now off to figure out how i get all of this water out of the bottom of my jeep. I'm not opposed to drilling a hole from underneath at this point to be honest...
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  #207  
Old 04-23-2016, 02:36 PM
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Re: Sloshing sound from under the car

OK, realize how serious this is, but I have to tell you a hilarious story.
Yesterday (friday), I was on the phone and so I had the radio off.
Company phone so NOT on the uconnect.
When I completed the call I was making a turn and heard the dreaded sloshing sound from somewhere on the right side of the truck.
Last night I search this and every other forum I could find about sloshing sounds in the JGC.
Woke up this morning with a plan, check under drivers seat, if wet most likely AC condensation (I just started using the AC day before yesterday), if wet under passenger seat likely sunroof drain, if wet in spare tire well, seal on wiring for back door.

So this morning I check all those locations, all are dry! Yet I clearly hear sloshing from somewhere on my right! Could it be the fuel tank baffles?
Nope, I filled up last night.

More searching, finally I look under the back seat.
My daughter had gone for a ride with me earlier in the week, I found, wrapped in a sweatshirt, her stainless steel vacuum water bottle!!
It was half full, and only made noise when the truck shook sideways!!
And like all the rest of the symptoms, could only be heard when everything was off in the cabin.
So, my story at least had a happy ending! Check for those loose water bottles!
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:34 AM
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Re: Sloshing sound from under the car

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Originally Posted by dghpts View Post
OK, realize how serious this is, but I have to tell you a hilarious story.
Yesterday (friday), I was on the phone and so I had the radio off.
Company phone so NOT on the uconnect.
When I completed the call I was making a turn and heard the dreaded sloshing sound from somewhere on the right side of the truck.
Last night I search this and every other forum I could find about sloshing sounds in the JGC.
Woke up this morning with a plan, check under drivers seat, if wet most likely AC condensation (I just started using the AC day before yesterday), if wet under passenger seat likely sunroof drain, if wet in spare tire well, seal on wiring for back door.

So this morning I check all those locations, all are dry! Yet I clearly hear sloshing from somewhere on my right! Could it be the fuel tank baffles?
Nope, I filled up last night.

More searching, finally I look under the back seat.
My daughter had gone for a ride with me earlier in the week, I found, wrapped in a sweatshirt, her stainless steel vacuum water bottle!!
It was half full, and only made noise when the truck shook sideways!!
And like all the rest of the symptoms, could only be heard when everything was off in the cabin.
So, my story at least had a happy ending! Check for those loose water bottles!
That's hilarious. I wish mine would have been that simple. Not sure if I ever posted back but it ended up being the AC drain hose located behind the carpet on the driver side of the center console to the right of the gas peddle and toward the driver seat about 10". It had come loose and was draining a ton of condensation into the frame with no way out besides drying itself up. Chrysler paid for it as it could have been a health issue of not taken care of, and they fixed my quadra lift finally too after 8 times in the shop!
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  #209  
Old 05-25-2016, 08:12 AM
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Re: Sloshing sound from under the car

I found my battery compartment and compartment under the drivers seat was full of water. I removed the rubber drain plugs and got about 1 gal out of the battery chamber
and 2 gallons out of the drivers side. I could not determine the source of the water. Then I checked the spare tire compartment and found about 3/4" of water level. All carpets were dry. Condensate drain was clear. Water sloshing noise is now gone.
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  #210  
Old 01-09-2017, 11:12 AM
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Re: Sloshing sound from under the car

This thread has some great info, and I just recently had this issue on my 2012 limited. All videos and other suggestions are correct when diagnosing the trapped water. I pulled the rubber drain plugs on the passenger side (easy enough) and got a ton of water out. The issue remains on the diver side. There are no rubber plugs on that side but instead this in the picture, once I took the plastic plate off.


How do I get those out? I checked out a video of someone doing this on a 2011 but they changed the plugs I guess for 2012
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  #211  
Old 01-10-2017, 02:26 PM
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Re: Sloshing sound from under the car

Burbon, those plastic plugs stay in. The rubber plugs should be about a foot or so in front of the plastic plugs in the photo.
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  #212  
Old 01-11-2017, 04:01 PM
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Re: Sloshing sound from under the car

Hi everyone, new to the forum after buying a 2011 overland 10 weeks ago.
A couple of days ago I started hearing the sloshing sound, so after reading this thread I have just been under the car and took out the small plug and one of the large plugs. Water gushed out! Hopefully I can look more closely at the cause come the weekend.
I have to say a big Thankyou to you all for this very informative thread ��
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  #213  
Old 01-28-2017, 01:47 PM
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Re: Sloshing sound from under the car

I ended up drilling the odd looking plug to see if any water came out of that side with a 1/8" hole. Nothing came out. I eventually cracked the plug and pushed it in. I bought another one to see what it looked like. Seems you can only remove it from the top side. So by removing the battery trays etc.
No water came out.
I just plugged the open hole with 3/4" drain plug that you can buy. I don't hear any rattling in the frame at all from the plug still in the frame.
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  #214  
Old 01-28-2017, 10:24 PM
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Re: Sloshing sound from under the car

This will be the 3rd time trying to fix this issue with the dealer. Twice under warranty and now this 3rd time not under warranty. The battery compartment fills with water. Can't seem to locate the source of where the water is entering. Anyone experience this issue?
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Old 02-22-2017, 03:53 PM
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Re: Sloshing sound from under the car

Water Sloshing under Driver Seat Troubleshooting

We purchased a used 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited in Aug of 2016. Early on I heard the sloshing sound under the DRIVER seat which triggered this troubleshooting write up.

It appears that the most common reasons for the sloshing are as follows:

1.Gas tank baffle issues.
2.A/C drain hose is loose
3.Lift-gate leaking
4.Floor wells or spare tire area missing body plugs
5.Side Door seals leaking
6.Frame seals missing
7.Sunroof seals/alignment issues
8.Roof rack rails leaking
9.Sunroof drain tubes leaking


It is also important to note that weather, fuel capacity, speed, maintenance and angle can all play a part in the diagnoses. Obviously weather is the biggest reason for a leak - sunny days don’t offer much water, unless you wash your car. The fuel issue is easily solved by listening to the “sloshing” at various stages of fuel, if repeatable you have a solution. Speed can factor in if the leak is driven by wind forcing water into areas exposed, or if you love driving fast through large puddles of water forcing water to enter the bottom of your Jeep finding seams or holes in the body. If your Jeep is parked on an incline outside during wet weather the leak may present itself but if parked in a different angle the leak does not happen. It is also important to note that some leaks may take a while to manifest themselves right away so the cause and effect are delayed.

Bottom line is that you can’t take anything for granted.


In February we returned from a ski trip and noticed a musty smell and discovered the driver side carpet below my Husky liners, soaked, but did not hear the sloshing sound. In fact it had been since fall that I noticed the sound, so I finally decided to get involved. I started by undoing trim pieces and removed the driver seat, carpet, and black plastic floor piece. I found about a cup of water in the well. I drained and vacuumed the well so as to monitor the leak.

I was not able to see ANY clear source of the water leak so that lead me to believe it might be the A/C drain hose. I confirmed one end was ziptied to the HVAC and the other end of the drain hose was secure in the transmission hump and not leaking when running the A/C for 15 minutes. However in February we at times have very little humidity in the air so the A/C might not have much moisture to drain. Also the amount of water in the well could not explain a A/C drain leak producing that much moisture.

As part of my investigation I built a little wooden floorboard so I could still drive yet monitor the well for water accumulation anytime.

So it seems that items 1 and 2 have been taken off my list.

I then chased down the assumption that it might be from the rear of the Jeep via the lift-gate. When we purchased the Jeep the lift-gate had some alignment problems and I noticed that the left hinge had some rust spots, I assumed it was from the previous owner attempting to fix the alignment issue. That night I took a very bright LED flashlight and searched for signs of water leaks. This works best at night because the LED light seems to highlight subtle water “stains” on the plastic panels as I moved the flashlight around. I started looking on the left side first assuming the rust on the hinge bolts may indicate a water leak on that side, and sure enough found some “stains”. I then made sure that the rubber grommets at the top of the lift-gate were all sealed properly and free of cuts or holes. Although everything looked good I did discover a .75 inch dia hole right behind the rubber strip at the top that diverts water between the body and the lift-gate. I assumed that somehow, either because of an incline or highway speeds water was entering this hole. I went to the dealer and looked at a new JGC to verify that it should be plugged and it was! I ordered a new plug for $4.00. This confirmed item 3, kinda. I also removed all the plastic panels from the lift-gate to see if I could find more evidence of a water leak or damage. The inside of the panels had a dust coating with a few areas indicating some leaking, but not much else.

The problem with this water leak is that for the amount of water I had in the well the hole would have to be a major entry point for water to run down the lift-gate panels, into the cargo area make its way forward and deposit into the well. That’s a long road to travel and I was unable to find any water in the spare tire area, cargo load floor or wet carpets in the passenger floorboards. Granted, the water path may just be a lucky clean shot toward the front via seams and channels in the body frame, but I am struggling with that assumption. Though during this investigation I confirmed my spare tire area was also dry, which at least eliminated any major leak from the rear at this time.

I then checked the rubber drain plugs in the well area to make sure it was properly seated and intact. I understand that some dealers simply removed the drain plug so that the leaking water will drain out and the sloshing sound goes away. This of course probably works pretty well as it allows for the water to escape and the majority of Jeep Grand Cherokee owners never find themselves in water deep enough to allow water to enter through that hole as to cause an issue. Even if it did the dealer could simply say, “looks like there was a plug missing” and wash their hands of the situation. Of course the leak would not be solved but the perceived “problem” resolved. So that eliminated item 4.

I checked the seals around the doors and made sure that there were no tears, cuts or misalignment. I also looked at the dirt and dust accumulation patterns and found them as expected, nothing indicating a water leak. I can therefore reasonably exclude item 5.

The issue of frame seals missing or incomplete is daunting and I was unsure where to start looking. It is also really hard to test those areas for leaks considering their location and complexity. I decided that I would pursue that as a last resort or sell the car! I will dismiss item 6 for now.

The sunroof was my next target area and I did review the class action lawsuit regarding the sunroofs but my issues do not seem to be the same. Specifically I can not find any moisture on the headliner, side walls, or leaks from the middle console on the roof or from the rear view mirror. My leaks seems to be at the carpet level or below, so I will eliminate alignment issues and seals at this point found in item 7.

The other leak point people have pointed to are the roof rack rails. I did recently remove and replace some bolts on the rack to put on my ski racks but again my problem started well before I did this and I assume that this type of leak would be at the headliner level. I will eliminate item 8.

So the other night I opened the sunroof and poured some water into the sunroof driver side drain hole. Sure enough I could see the trail of water pouring into the well!

This was great at it allowed me to fully confirm the other items on my list as possible leak sources since it was so quick. Car washes or rain over a period of time would create the sloshing sound if it was unable to evaporate more than the new water coming in. So I figure the cause and effect were delayed to some degree but at least the primary leak was found.

I have read many solutions to fix a clogged sunroof drain and have had a few problems with each one. The primary one is the term “clogged”. Is it a clog or a cracked/split or disconnected tube? The remedy I read about most often is to use an air hose to “force” the clog out. The problem is that if the clog is significant it might just compact the debris and in my situation does not explain the leak at the bottom of the drain. A wet headliner would make more sense as the clog forces the water to back up and overflow onto the headliner.

The other solution has been to cut the “valve” at the bottom of the drain so debris and other obstructions can exit freely from the drain tube. The valve has “fingers” which are very flexible and releases water when a small amount of water builds up and forces it out. Problem is that the 2014 JGC does not have "fingers" to cut off the drain hose and as I found out later the end of the drain hose on the driver side exits someplace deep inside the engine bay.

I have also read that if you pour VERY hot water and bleach into the drain to remove any slime, grime, mold, etc. Again this is a fine idea but if the clog is due to plant material or very small rocks this will only be a partial solution. Again in my case I would only be draining hot bleach water into the well.

Others have recommended using a flexible metal wire with the coating still on to physically force a clog out the end. I get the idea, but am concerned that the wire could puncture the drain tube causing another leak. So if you want to “clean” out a drain tube every so often, use a thick plastic weed trimmer line which is flexible, long, and go slow and gentle. Any resistance should be considered carefully before you try to go further

I did some research and discovered that older JGC’s use a blue corrugated plastic hose which may easily puncture or crumble if pressure is applied. The good news is that the 2014 at least uses a thick solid rubber hose. I decided to start with trying to clean out the drain hose just in case but also to “measure” the distance of the hose so I could get a sense of any problem. The trimmer line I used is fairly thin and it took a slow spinning motion to start the “snake” as it went into the drain tube.


REPAIR of FRONT DRIVER SIDE SUNROOF DRAIN LINE.


Time: about 1 hour from start to finish - this does not include the removal and installation of carpeting, floorboard, seat and trim panels, etc.

Cost: None

Tools: 7mm socket, 10mm socket, 10mm wrench, trim tools, small flat blade screw driver,large towel, Bright LED Flashlight, container with water and small funnel, 2014_wk2_interior_trim_removal_001.pdf document.

Parts: None.

Comments: This is just for the actual fix not the troubleshooting process which of course took several weeks.


This repair assumes that you have already removed various trim pieces, driver seat, carpeting, and floor board in order to dry out wet carpets and drained the well (and verified that the drain plug is intact. We will pick up the repair at the next step.

VERIFY: Using the 2014_wk2_interior_trim_removal_001.pdf document as my guide I removed the A-Pillar trim piece to locate the drain hose and check for any sign of leakage closer toward the top, thinking perhaps before I delve into the following steps I would confirm all was well. My concern was that the drain hose was leaking from the connection at the sunroof and using the outside of the hose as its path toward the bottom and releasing at the end of the hose into the well. I also confirmed that the hose was a thick black rubber hose, not the blue corrugate style in older Jeeps.

https://goo.gl/photos/GDCi2e1zgHbYUPxx5
https://goo.gl/photos/8CPk8nefXX2f4fL79


STEP 1: Again using the 2014_wk2_interior_trim_removal_001.pdf document as my guide I reviewed the section on AIR BAG, Knee Blocker/Removal and found it deceptively confusing. BEFORE disconnecting the negative battery cable as instructed, first move your steering column out and down as far as possible. Then using a 10mm wrench disconnect the battery under the passenger seat and wait 2 minutes for the airbag capacitors to discharge.

https://goo.gl/photos/C6qacSy5Q6D279AG9


STEP 2: The instruction sheet for step 2 is painfully lacking in help here so you might want to jump to the CLUSTER, INSTRUMENT step 3, only to find that it is only more confusing, but gives you a bit of info that is helpful. There is a plastic trim piece that goes around the steering column that has a fake leather “shroud” that is flexible so when the steering column is positioned it moves with it. The flexible material is attached to a hard plastic trim piece that clips into the dash. Use your hands and trim tool to release it. Once its free you will see four 7mm screws at the top of the steering column. The top two are for the instrument cluster and the bottom two are for the Air Bag Knee Blocker panel. Remove the two lower screws with a 7mm socket wrench, taking care to not scratch the steering wheel or turn signal stalks with your wrench. I used a soft rag to protect them.

STEP 2: Lay down a thick towel over the driver side sill and floorboard area to protect you back. If you lay down upside down so you head is now under the dash and legs awkwardly dangling out the door you will see a mass of structures, wires, vents and plastic bits. There are two 7mm nuts that you need to remove with a socket wrench. Look at the photos to help orient yourself and identify the two nuts, and remove them.

https://goo.gl/photos/kkU9j178bWSaxR238
https://goo.gl/photos/2jknYSzRtCGWE9r29
https://goo.gl/photos/Jcree8jgdyxF98FX9

STEP 3:
Now you can now easily remove the panel with a trim tool. Be careful to not pull the panel away too far as you still need to remove all the electrical and mechanical connectors. Start with the headlight switch. Pull the red locking tab up and then pinch the connector to remove. The fuel door connector uses a small tab connector that required a small flat blade screwdriver to push in while pulling the connector out. The hood latch release mechanism also uses a small tab that must be pushed down to release the whole assembly. Finally you need to disconnect the airbag connector. Again the instructions are poor at best. It took some time but I used the small flat blade screw driver to lift the orange locking clip straight up then used the plastic trim tool to gently pull the connector out from the airbag. There was no way I was able to “pinch” the sides to release the connector in that tight space. Now you can move the knee panel/airbag away.

https://goo.gl/photos/wR3sWf3LcjVvQrKWA
https://goo.gl/photos/e32n4ePbLRBkmDaT8
https://goo.gl/photos/gabFKBMWya7BP8zJ7
https://goo.gl/photos/9fK8AjD8tPJeCbhGA

STEP 4: At this point I used my flashlight with my left hand to highlight the area of the drain hose. Using my right hand I could pull the firewall sound proof material away enough to see the end of the drain hose dangling. The picture unfortunately does not show the drainage hole through the firewall because the hose is covering it. I superimposed a hole to help identify its location. This space is very tight and I was not able to get two hands in this spot at one time. The sound proofing is also very stiff and so it took some effort to weasel my hand into location, slide it under the sound proofing and manipulate the end of the hose and set the grommet in place securely.


https://goo.gl/photos/D7UshNuJRoUa3gbZ9

STEP 5: Assuming your sunroof is already open to test the drain use a small funnel and container of water to slowly pour water into the drain. If all went well you can now proceed to step 6. Otherwise you will need to go further into your investigation. Sorry.

STEP 6: At this point its simply a reversal of the previous steps.

I apologize if I missed any steps or my tools are wrong as I did this during a horrible cold and not very clear in the head.
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Old 02-22-2017, 05:02 PM
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Re: Sloshing sound from under the car

rtodd, it must have taken you a week to type all that up!! LOL! Great info & thanks for sharing!
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