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  #73  
Old 08-27-2012, 07:14 PM
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Re: Wk2 Rear Knocking Noise Aussie GC Laredo

Justal13 thanks for putting me down with the noise comment about coming back.
If it comes back I will go back to the dealer, like I mention I am ready to file the claim in the BBB and take it to the next level if needed. At the end this is my second car and if I need to leave it at the service area again until they find the problem I will do in a heart beat.
By the way the first time I took it to replace the shocks, I left the service area and the sound was still noticeable, now is not, maybe they already found the source of the problem.
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:50 PM
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Re: Wk2 Rear Knocking Noise Aussie GC Laredo

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Originally Posted by Justal13 View Post
No, it would not loosen up anything. All it would do is verify that the bushings are a source of the problem. WD-40 is a short-term penetrating lubricant, and evaporates quickly. Water degrades it.

Personally, I do not believe the rear load leveling shocks are the source of the problem. I and many others had notices the noise is less on rainy days (which would make the bushing wet). I believe your noise will be back as soon as the new shocks "wear in", just like they did the 1st time you had them replaced.

My GC was fine for the 1st 5000 miles, and the noise started getting more noticeable the last 1500 miles (I am at 8500 miles now).

I also want to find the root-cause of this issue, and am tired of hearing dealers say it is normal - because it did not do it for the 1st 5000 miles, so it is NOT normal.

I am going to attempt the "WD-40" test on my GC tonight and will report back in a day or so.
I also don't believe the SLS are the problem, but I am happy to be proved wrong as long as the noise goes away. By the way my noise is also present when it is raining. I will try the WD40 approach and see if that changes things. I will also try to record it and make a front video of the rear suspension. Sometimes I have the feeling there are multiple causes for this clunkging.

Justal13, have you checked your rear differential mounting if that looks the same as mine?
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:53 AM
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Re: Wk2 Rear Knocking Noise Aussie GC Laredo

No, I am not "putting anybody down". You are taking the time to prove (perhaps) that replacing the rear LL shocks are not the root cause of the issue. The fact that the noise did not go away with the 1st shock replacements, and that it appears to be gone after the 2nd shock replacement is helpful. However, I believe the noise will come back as it has for others that have had their shocks replaces 1 or 2 times. Problem is, the dealer is replacing the shocks with the exact same shocks - so why should we expect a permanent change?

I am an Engineer, and know well that a "negative proof" can provide much information to solve a problem by elimination.

Personally, I believe that some of the rear body-connecting points are either loosening up or they have play in them after 5000 miles or of the body-mount bushings "breaking in".

I did the "WD-40" test last night. I sprayed every connector and bushing in sight. I let it sit overnight to penetrate and drove it this morning. The result - the noise was still there (perhaps a little less - or mostly wishfull thinking).

My next step is going to attempt to check the tightness of the suspension to body and body mounting points. Starting with the two directly adjacent to the spare-tire well. I am doing those first because my noise seems to be coming from that general vicinity.

As I have mentioned before, I have already completely removed everything from the rear (spare tire, all well bins/contents, tire well cover, cargo shade) and driven with the rear hatch open. This has no effect on the noise. Based on this I have ruled out the spare tire well area, cover, shade and rear hatch as the culprit (these were the 1st areas my dealer blamed and I ruled them out myself because I knew they were wrong and did not want them tearing the inside of my GC apart or trying to adjust my hatch unnecessarily).

Let's keep working on this, we will figure it out eventually with a group effort. Or I will be one of those trading my GC in for a restyled 2014 sooner than later. Best luck.
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Old 08-28-2012, 01:23 PM
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Re: Wk2 Rear Knocking Noise Aussie GC Laredo

Quote:
Originally Posted by Justal13 View Post
Personally, I believe that some of the rear body-connecting points are either loosening up or they have play in them after 5000 miles or of the body-mount bushings "breaking in".

I did the "WD-40" test last night. I sprayed every connector and bushing in sight. I let it sit overnight to penetrate and drove it this morning. The result - the noise was still there (perhaps a little less - or mostly wishfull thinking).

My next step is going to attempt to check the tightness of the suspension to body and body mounting points. Starting with the two directly adjacent to the spare-tire well. I am doing those first because my noise seems to be coming from that general vicinity.

As I have mentioned before, I have already completely removed everything from the rear (spare tire, all well bins/contents, tire well cover, cargo shade) and driven with the rear hatch open. This has no effect on the noise. Based on this I have ruled out the spare tire well area, cover, shade and rear hatch as the culprit (these were the 1st areas my dealer blamed and I ruled them out myself because I knew they were wrong and did not want them tearing the inside of my GC apart or trying to adjust my hatch unnecessarily).

Let's keep working on this, we will figure it out eventually with a group effort. Or I will be one of those trading my GC in for a restyled 2014 sooner than later. Best luck.
I am on your side for the group effort;
- I tried all my connections: all tight and rattle still there
- I checked also all the cradle mounts (the two ones you are referring to I guess in the rear and the two ones in the front). They have been my first guess as cause, but as you can see in my videos, they hardly move. The clunking was always there during the drive, so the whole videos
- sometimes I had the fuel tank mounting under suspicion, all tight there, but I can't look on the upper side or inside if there is something loose
- I started to check the driveline, but didn't go very far; I discovered my front mount of the rear diff is making contact with the diff. There is a rubber 'washer' inbetween though, so not sure if that makes the noise. I haven't check the aft driveshaft middle mount and I haven't put the drivetrain into neutral to see if there is something loose
- my last guess would be some issues with the shocks like they had with the standard ones on the early 2011 were they replaced the bump stops and did some greasing. Some statements from the dealer and other forums also indicate this. Nonopr01 will give us a prove of that (Best Luck)
- however there could be several independent reasons for the same noise so we have to be precise in our tracking

Anybody did a recording of the clunking in the car?
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Old 08-28-2012, 03:54 PM
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Re: Wk2 Rear Knocking Noise Aussie GC Laredo

No problem and I am good with your Comment Justal13.
My GC has only 3891 miles.
Lets see how much it last with out the noise.
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:01 PM
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Re: Wk2 Rear Knocking Noise Aussie GC Laredo

So I crawled underneath the rear of my GC and checked the (4) rear suspension connecting "pad" bolts, using the appropriate socket and an 18" breaker bar. They were snug.

But, while I was down there laying on my back - I grabbed on and rocked the back end up and down as hard as I could and - there was the noise. And it seemed to be coming from the rear shocks???

So I reached up and grabbed on the (to my surprise) plastic cover over the top of the shocks. It looked to be somewhat warped, and visibly rubbing on the lower portion of the shock. I moved it and rotated it around around and you should have seen the crap that "rained" out. There was that "drumming", "softballs in a plastic can" sound. Dirt, small rocks, etc. particularly when I "thumped" on the plastic - amazing how loud it was. So I got an air hose with an extension tip and blasted as much of the crap out that I could.

Time for a test-drive and, it was definitely quieter but not completely gone. So I took a water hose with a pressure spray nozzle and blasted up inside the shock cover. The cover only has about a 1/4" or less gap around the perimeter, and with the warp it does rub a bit. I "squeezed" it as much as I could to straighten the warp out so it does not rub, and will let it dry out overnight from my overly agressive pressure washing.

Check yours and see what you think. If this is the cause, it could explain why the noise gets worse over time as the plastic warps (from heat?) and crap gets up into the gap. And why some people have a temporary fix when the shocks are replaced. Not a real terriffic design. The upper shock cover/shroud material needs to be stiffer plastic or metal, and perhaps a wider gap. Best luck.
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Old 08-29-2012, 02:26 AM
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Re: Wk2 Rear Knocking Noise Aussie GC Laredo

I will check mine too. I recognized that a lot of sand was coming out of the plastic covers as I check the bolts on the shock mounts. I barely touched the covers. Bolts were fine by the way.

I can't recall if my covers were warped but will have a look. Have you removed the fender liners and/or wheels to get to the covers?
Have you checked if your fender lines might be loose? If you bump against them, they make a similar sound. I will remove them completely when I check the shocks and see if the noise remains.

As far as I know you can pull down the plastic cover and see the upper body stop. That stop was the cause for the clunking of the standard shocks. WARNING: Don't pull down the plastic cover, you have to dismount the shock, and disassemble it because the dust cover can only be mounted from the top of the shock, pulled over its attachement!

Thanks a lot for the effort.
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Old 08-29-2012, 02:45 PM
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Re: Wk2 Rear Knocking Noise Aussie GC Laredo

I have 725 miles on mine, 2012 V6 4x4 with tow package. While driving around the neighborhood, I heard what I think you all are dealing with.

What's crazy is it's the same sound as I dealt with on my 2003 Dodge Ram when the hood 'bumpers' would work themselves in letting the hood bounce ever so slightly. I swore up and down that it was a problem in the front suspension because it could best be described as a "heavy rattle" on the same minimal bumps/cracks in the pavement. I even rode my bicycle along side it while someone else drove so I could listen for it and thought for sure it was suspension. Then I read someone suggest unscrewing those bumpers on the underside of the hood a little bit. I did that and the noise went away.

My point is, just maybe this noise on the WK2 isn't from the rear suspension at all and is transmitted from the body elsewhere. Putting on new or softer shocks or greasing something on the suspension could be temporarily taking the 'punch' out of the suspension making the real culprit quiet. Does the rear hatch have any sort of adjustable bumpers?

Does everyone with this issue have the hitch? Since it's bolted on, I wonder if it's a popping noise of the body flexing/shifting on the more structurally stiff hitch piece. Like dirt and rocks get between it and make it pop.
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Old 09-02-2012, 04:12 PM
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Re: Wk2 Rear Knocking Noise Aussie GC Laredo

Quote:
Originally Posted by Justal13 View Post
So I crawled underneath the rear of my GC and checked the (4) rear suspension connecting "pad" bolts, using the appropriate socket and an 18" breaker bar. They were snug.

But, while I was down there laying on my back - I grabbed on and rocked the back end up and down as hard as I could and - there was the noise. And it seemed to be coming from the rear shocks???

So I reached up and grabbed on the (to my surprise) plastic cover over the top of the shocks. It looked to be somewhat warped, and visibly rubbing on the lower portion of the shock. I moved it and rotated it around around and you should have seen the crap that "rained" out. There was that "drumming", "softballs in a plastic can" sound. Dirt, small rocks, etc. particularly when I "thumped" on the plastic - amazing how loud it was. So I got an air hose with an extension tip and blasted as much of the crap out that I could.

Time for a test-drive and, it was definitely quieter but not completely gone. So I took a water hose with a pressure spray nozzle and blasted up inside the shock cover. The cover only has about a 1/4" or less gap around the perimeter, and with the warp it does rub a bit. I "squeezed" it as much as I could to straighten the warp out so it does not rub, and will let it dry out overnight from my overly agressive pressure washing.

Check yours and see what you think. If this is the cause, it could explain why the noise gets worse over time as the plastic warps (from heat?) and crap gets up into the gap. And why some people have a temporary fix when the shocks are replaced. Not a real terriffic design. The upper shock cover/shroud material needs to be stiffer plastic or metal, and perhaps a wider gap. Best luck.
I looked extensivly at mines today;
- my dustcover looks perfect, didn't rub and was clean inside.
- What I recognized though was that the top of shocks, just above the dust cover (blue circle) was kind a dryed out rubber and showed some wear. So I greased that a little
- There are also a lot of more parts in the upper shockmount that are not in the picture (red circle). In the shock mount are two rubber pieces isolating the piston rod with the thread from the actual metal mount. Also there is a washer between them and the nut then. As everything has a little play, there is potential for noise. For example the washer has just 1-2 mm to the metal of the shockmount. If the rubber isolating the rod is too soft, it could happen that it touches and creates noise.
- I also recognice that the rubber stop (green circle) has slightly play.
- Finally, because of the dust cover issue (see below) I recogniced that my left front upper shockmount screw wasn't tight up to the specs.

WARNING, if you pull down the dust cover, it is impossible to get it back on by just pushing it up. You have to dismount the upper shock mounts and dissassmble everything as the dustcover has to be put from above on the shock. That is all simple and takes just 20minutes, but not really necessary if you don't want to check the upper mounts

So far my status on the rear shocks. Currently my hottest hint is the rubber piece of the upper shock mount (#18). We will see. No test drive so far as it started pouring while I was cleaning everything up.

I also checked my driveline, based of the issue with the front mount of the rear diff which makes contact with the body. I put transfer case in neutral to see if there is some play in the drive line;
- middle mount of the rear driveshaft) just above the middle resonator of the exhaust is tight, no play and no rattle
- there is some rotary (?) play in the rear diff where the driveshaft enteres it, which causes some very similar clunking in the car when rotated
- the axle shafts have also some rotary (?) play (green arrow) but also some radial play but in the sense that I can tilt them (e.g. up&down or front&rear, red arrow).I don't mean the actual driveshaft but the thick 'mounting' where the rubber boot is. Also if I use the rotary and radial play, meaning rattling on the axleshafts, it sounds like the clunking/rattling in the car. This video shows what I mean with tilting: (wrong car though )

My question would be, how much play is ok in the rear diff and can somebody else with clunking noises check his one? Actually it would even be better if somebody without a clunking could check his rear diff.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg rear shock.jpg (39.6 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg axle play.jpg (29.2 KB, 35 views)
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:15 AM
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Re: Wk2 Rear Knocking Noise Aussie GC Laredo

There is a new TSB out for the SRTsto fix the rear rattle with a new upper shock mount http://www.wk2jeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wk2_1700112.pdf

As stated in the TSB it is for SRT8 not for self leveling shocks coming with the Tow Package. Nevertheless,, after fixing the standard shocks with some TSBs (Upper mount replace: http://www.wk2jeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wk2_1700210a.pdf; and a second time http://www.wk2jeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wk2_1700111.pdf) and now the SRTs twice (this was the first http://www.wk2jeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wk2_1700211.pdf) I am hopeful that there will be a fix for the self leveling shocks. The SLS are the only ones which haven't been changed since introduction and looking at all the other TSBs there is apparently something wrong in the whole upper mounting point design

I dismounted my SLSs upper mounts last weekend because i pushed the dust cover down. To put it back I had to slide it on from the top therefore i had to disassemble the upper shock mount. The SLS mounts are slightly different than the ones the TSB describes;
- there is no protective cap on the SLS upper mounts (like Fig. 1 part 3)
- the inner rubber guiding of the shock rod is two pieced and has a big silvery washer on top, which I can't see in the TSBs Fig 2.

By the way the link to the new part mentioned in the TSB (http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/...8029590AE.html) clearly states "...without SES" with SES is the salescode for the SLS. I assume that the SLS part numbers have the upper shock mount already included because the details for everything related to the upper shock mounts in the parts manual always state "...without SES"

Only thing we can do is go onto the nerves of our dealers and Chrysler to get this fixed! I will jump on mine today again with the issue on the play in my rear diff. Keep you updated.
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:44 AM
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Re: Wk2 Rear Knocking Noise Aussie GC Laredo

You're the man Suther, go get 'em!!!

Oh, and once you solve this problem can you figure out what's going on with the whole stuck-in-the-sand issue, I'd like to visit the beach again some time soon
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Old 09-07-2012, 04:47 PM
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Re: Wk2 Rear Knocking Noise Aussie GC Laredo

Just came back from the dealer; they will look at the diff on Tuesday but doubt that it will be the cause. Nevertheless, they were very supportive.

We also chatted about the 'fix in progress'; the noise of the rear shocks is not 'normal' but 'characteristic' to the SLS and there are a lot more people complaining about them. As far as the service manager knows, they are working on a spacer on the upper shock mount as the shocks are too short (we heard that before).

Mmmh, indeed as pointed out earlier, the SLS don't have a protective cap while all the others have. Or just my car doesn't have them?
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