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First Oil Change

7K views 31 replies 10 participants last post by  BobsWK2 
#1 ·
mileage on car: 755

removed break-in oil and replaced with Castrol Edge (Synthetic) 5w-20.

special thanks to the Robot that didn't understand torque-specs on the factory installed Oil Filter. I busted a knuckle removing it.:slapfight:
 
#2 ·
I have had the same thing with several different new vehicles over the years.

I think that sometimes, whoever puts the oil filter on the first time does not bother to coat the rubber gasket with oil.
 
#3 ·
I had the dealer do my first free oil change so I didn't have an overly tight oil filter luckily.. haha

Regardless though, check out this thread for some oil insight. Ive learned a lot over the past week speaking to Brian at BNDAutomotive and am trying to help pass along what I have read/learned to the Jeep Community regarding lubricants and why they are actually an important part that people need to be more informed about..

http://www.jeepgarage.org/showpost.php?p=568484&postcount=4
 
#4 ·
I had the dealer do my first free oil change so I didn't have an overly tight oil filter luckily.. haha

Regardless though, check out this thread for some oil insight. Ive learned a lot over the past week speaking to Brian at BNDAutomotive and am trying to help pass along what I have read/learned to the Jeep Community regarding lubricants and why they are actually an important part that people need to be more informed about..

http://www.jeepgarage.org/showpost.php?p=568484&postcount=4
I wonder if they tested Castrol Synthetic? I used it in both of my BMW's and it showed minimal breakdown between regular oil changes. I have always used Castrol oil for many years.
 
#6 ·
I'm definitely experiencing that tick, and it partly diminished when I put in the synthetic oil, but I am going to try that ACES IV additive and see if it also helps.
Thanks for the tip.
 
#7 ·
Tell him Jorde from JeepGarage sent you over and you'll get a 10% discount. (And no I do not get anything for you mentioning me, you save 10% however, lol) ACES IV is usually the first step many people take, as it adds necessary lubrication to the fuel that fuel no longer provides..


Heres the response below that I received from Brian at BNDAutomotive (Sales@bndautomotive.com) regarding the Castrol.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Castrol Syntec is a Group III engine oil and is an ok oil. Still suffers from the same solubility issues that Group IV oils (typical synthetics) suffer with. Also more aggressive on seals. Very few people really use it and not for very long typically. Will be similar to Mobil 1 in how it functions.

Here is one example I have from an FJ 40 Toyota Land Cruiser with 3,854 miles on it. Notice the lead content at 8 ppm and the chromium too at 8 ppm.

Castrol Syntec 0W-30
Filter: Toyota dealership filter #90915-YZZD3
Oil change interval: 6,207 km / 3,854 mi

Fe: 12
Chr: 8
Al: 2
Cu: 1
Pb: 8
Si: 29
Na: 11
K: 4
Zi: 838
Mg: 421
P: 866
Ba: 1

All other values "0." Trend for wear metals and additive levels are consistent with the last run of Castrol Syntec 0W-30.

FT-IR Analysis:

Sulf UFM#: 24
Oxid UFM#: 17
Nitr UFM#: 15

Physical Properties:

Viscosity at +100 C: 11.25 cSt
TBN: 5
Coolant: 0.0
Fuel: 0.6
Water:0.9

The thing people don’t really understand is that the base stock is only really 50% of the story although the volatility of it is tanatmount. Syntec is 17% reactive under heat….QuantumBlue is 1.5 to 3% reactive! The rest of it is what additives do they put in it and what type of additives. ZDDP is important for anti-rust and scuff. Phosphorous is really important for anti-scuff too. Magnesium is really important as well but not too much Magnesium either. 421 Magnesium is really too much! Also, it is designed to try and work with the widest amount of vehicles and so the compounds are for the widest variety of uses. We get specific so that it is the best it can be for that vehicle and how it is used. It wouldn’t be the best in another vehicle as it would be blended wrong. Application matters and so does the compounds that have to be assembled matter as well.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 
#8 ·
Also to add I posted this in another relevant thread but in-case you didn't see it regarding the hemi tick...





~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~From Brian:

The Hemi Tick is a typical problem for many people with 5.7L and 6.1L hemi engines. We don’t have enough experience on what the 6.4 will be like, but I believe it probably will suffer similar issues. The oil that we design for the 5.7L VVT Eagle engine that you have is a 7.5w23 QuantumBlue HP Competition Formula 5.7L VVT Custom Hemi Blend. It is designed for all the passages of the engine and provides more film strength for the engine than the typical mineral or synthetic oils that you get from off the shelf or from the dealer. The base stock is specifically ours, we add more zinc and phosphorous, more magnesium and calcium carbonate in it to protect this engine far better than typical lubricants.

Remember that the Hemi tick consists of 3 separate noises . 1) the injectors make noise due to lack of lubricity in the fuel. ACES IV addresses that. 2) Intake and especially exhaust valves are ticking against the valve seats because they have no cushion left from the fuel. No more lead (obviously gone since Jan 1 1986) and not even any sulfur….that is a high pressure lubricant. Mix that with 10% ethyl alcohol and you have a really bad mix. Hammering basically metal to metal. 3) the short piston skirt on the hemi causes the piston to rattle in the bores in idle. This is why they add the moly coat to the skirt so that it will quiet down. As the engine gets some miles on it, the piston slap will get louder.

ACES IV takes care of #1 and #2, and QuantumBlue takes care of #3.
 
#10 ·
Why do you think your voiding your powertrain warranty? It's an API rated oil, which meets or exceeds the ILSAC-GF4 rating. Just to clarify your misunderstandings, Quantum Blue by bndautomotive is actually a ILSAC-GF5 API rated oil. It's rated higher then Mopar, so before you go throwing out claims with no backing please read about the products first. Everyone starts somewhere huh? Just because they dont have Exxon backing them and call themselves Mobil 1 doesnt mean it's not a great and/or better product. Chrysler cant tell you what oil to run they can only recommend what oil weight to use. Otherwise everyone running anything other then mopar is voiding warranties which is incorrect.
 
#11 ·
wow they have this down to a science! Thanks for sharing the info

just a couple of notes: I don't neccessarily agree with his statement that not many people use Castrol. I think their sales will easily refute that and it is the oil recommended by BMW and Daimler Benz. I have personally used only Castrol for many years and so did my father.

However, I am impressed with the information and stats provided with Quantum Blue, and I am tempted to try it myself.

I have heard a lot about Royal Purple also. Does he have any stats or info testing that brand?

Thanks.
 
#12 ·
Heres some info when I asked about royal purple myself, a couple of days ago.. I asked why its in the same price category as Quantum Blue, etc and what makes it have that type of value. I didn't request any lab tests but assume he has at least one.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Royal Purple contains Molybdenum Disulfide and Boron. This is their “special” Synerlec technology. The engines that we have seen the inside of using RP look like Black or Grape jelly slime all over the inside. They are also a poly alpha olefin based oil and aggressive on seals while their solubility or suspension of additive package is dropped. Just like running Mobil 1. Some of the samples I have seen from our cars running it have been very discouraging! We solve it by giving them the correct compounds without any MOLY or BORON.
 
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#16 ·
If you want to learn about oil, or search many UOAs on many different brands (except Blue Quantum -- no one ever heard of them), I'd highly recommend BITOG (Bob is the Oil Guy) website. There's over 39K geeks on there, and you'll learn more than you want to know. Of course they all have "opinions" as well :)
 
#17 · (Edited)
I agree, that website is a very good site, especially when it comes to oil that can be store bought. Lots of useful info about filters and oil.


Another product to note, that most people should know is Amsoil. Downfall as with Quantum Blue is its really only available online however Amsoil is pretty reasonable, and is rated pretty high too. They make OE, XL and SSO. SSO is good for 15k-25k or one year, however the XL can safely go 7k and is cheaper thus if you want to stick to the grand cherokee recommendations of every 6 months, XL is a money saving choice.
 
#18 ·
XL is a grade III base stock iirc, as is OE. SSO and euro amsoils are grade IV.

I just don't quite buy the FI ticking noise can be treated with different gas. Modern aluminum head engines with modular FI (individual solenoids at each cylinder) tick. My LS7 does, my hemi 5.7 does. They both run fine. Seriously, all 5w-20 oil is going to basically "look" the same to an engine, especially when just changed or regularly changed. You seriously expect us to believe your oil makes the engine quieter? If it does, I don't want it as it must be significantly different than OEM oil.

Why do new oil makers feel the need to have their oil a neat color? How bout:

chartreuss juice... or
pinky drinky...
yellow jello (sludges too quickly)...

No really, I'm sure quantum blue is fine oil. I'm sure it fights significant wear just like other oils available.
 
#19 ·
Yea Ive noticed SSO is a group IV but its also not API certified because supposedly amsoil doesn't want to pay to get it done, then be unable to change/alter the formula without having to re-certify it. So XL is the best we can get if you want to play by the book and make sure its API and chrysler spec. Just a FYI, Mobil 1 is no longer chrylser spec, that is because chrysler spec is old, and Mobil 1 claims.. outdated.
 
#20 ·
Quantum Blue is about $54/gallon if you buy 3 gallons. I agree that it will probably provide superiour protection (the numbers don't lie) and last longer than other oils, but I am not comfortable running any kind of oil 10,000 miles in an engine. To me, the cost outweights the benefits. Castrol Synthetic has always been good to me, and I'll probably stick with that and perform an oil change every 5000 miles, like always. If I do this, I fully expect the engine to last at least 200,000 miles, which is longer than I will keep the car.

Thanks for the great info. +rep
 
#21 ·
I think any oil off the shelf that is rated highly, Amsoil, Mobil 1, Castrol, Pennzoil Platinum will get the job done efficiently. Its not like any of them in the lab tests are hurting the engine. It comes down to which will help the motor last longer for people planning to keep the vehicle and who maybe don't have a lifetime warranty. I think I am going to try Amsoil, I have always run Mobil 1, and might continue to run it as its a good oil too and readily available at costco or walmart. One thing I read is Mobil 1 about a year or two ago took the formula which used to be the regular mobil 1, made it mobil 1 extended performance, and then made the current mobil 1 synthetic were used to today without telling anyone. I think the 5,000 mile rule is safe, but I know many oils can go significantly longer, especially extended drain intervals, such as mobil 1 extended performance and amsoil Signature series line.

If you want to run your oil longer and are not confident in the castrol, after 5,000 miles, change your oil and send in a sample. Make sure you get the ADVANCED MOBILE ANALYSIS as it will include a TBN test. TBN will show how much is left before its no longer effective. The oil analysis will also recommend how much longer you can safely run it under similar circumstances. Blackstone and PolarisLabs are the two largest companies, people recommend Polaris on BITOG for better accuracy and are a little cheaper too.

http://www.polarislabs.com/
http://www.polarislabs.biz/store/testing.cfm?page=single
 
#23 ·
Seriously, I'm sort of an oil geek (used blackstone a few times), but if your car is 10 years old with 200,000 miles on it and you treated it right and the engine brakes, don't blame the oil. Blame the metallurgy, or father time, or fate, or engine builder... because I'm no expert, but I've seen metal fatigue, and no surface oil will prevent it.

Changing oil is like taking a multivitamin daily, it will help you prevent some preventable illnesses, but you ain't gunna live forever by taking one.
 
#24 ·
I know everybody has their favorite oil and all have their opinion which is best for the engine but.... at my job we treat our company vehicles pretty bad and they rarely get serviced when they are supposed to. When we change oil it is usually at whatever quicklube place we are near at the time and it is usually "store brand" oil and cheap filters. We usually drive our trucks to the 200k mark and never have engine issues because of brand or type of oil. Wish the same could be said for the trannies, transfer case, diffs, etc.
 
#26 ·
I used filter pliers I got cheap from harbour freight. Almost no effort is necessary as they should be hand tightened. If your on your factory fill which you will be, it might require some extra effort.
 
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