Yes Chad has 4 sets of mids in stock now, I bought one set.
I ordered my Bilstein 4600s before Christmas and have them in-hand. Also have the new rear upper shock mounts since I have the tow package and load-leveling shocks.
If your Springs are not marked "F" for the front and "R" fro the rear, Chad at Black Ops told me that the thicker coils go on the back. He used the comparison of the front coils being as thick as your index finger and the rear coils being as thick as your thumb. Maybe someone that has installed these recently can verify this.
ajag! thought you were parting out the jeep and getting the srt8. saw chad the other day. his charger is pretty hot. cant wait to drop this thing and sway bar it up!
:thumbsup:
Ha....I decided to just see how far I could take this little V6 - So I added a stage 2 RIPP supercharger to my jeep this week...I'm going to try making this one last until the Hellcat jeep comes out
if anyone needs a Ripp Stage 1 kit let me know
I'll be in Wareham next week to do some dyno tuning ..found a shop there that does AWD dyno and has a diablo tuner on call...with this new setup I'm hoping to get 450+ AWD HP out of this 3.6l
I had it Dynoed yesterday and it hit 403AWD HP to the Wheels running pretty rich up top on 8-9LBS
I bought the Smaller pulley to step the boost up to 11-12lbs. I also installed an SRT fuel PUMP to supply plenty of fuel....should be pretty interesting if I can get it to 450HP
^that's awesome. theres a good tuner in Seekonk as well. mike deez. 450 hp is a nice little number. would think that thing would give an srt8 all she could handle. yeah, the hellcat jeep is something, but after seeing that charger... that could be the one.
nice job. cant wait to hear more. good luck Anthony
:thumbsup:
I'm pretty excited to get my springs in as well
Chad hooked me up with a set of his end links also so with those ..the springs and the srt sway bars it should make a huge difference
...considering a stock srt only puts down around 360-370hp to the wheels I'm pretty sure I can beat any slightly modified srt with this setup
I'm at 403hp to the wheels so I'm guessing that's got to be 510-520hp at the crank ..and I think she still has more potential
Finally got everything installed and the ride is, like others have said, BETTER than stock with the load leveling shocks out back.
I am disappointed though in the result. The rear sits 1/2" lower (by measuring tape) than the front, and that bugs me, a lot actually. Right now I am looking for options that would allow me to add a 3/4" spacer out back.
But the thing that's killing me is that the alignment shop wasn't able to get the rear camber dialed out far enough to meet the specs that Chad at Black Ops sent me from Road Magnet. They said they have the adjusters all the way out. The driver side is:
-2.38* where the spec sheet shows between -0.8* & -1.80*
The passenger side is:
-2.81* where the spec sheet shows between -0.8" & -1.80*
Visibly it looks bad, IMO.
Perhaps a rear 3/4" spacer (if there is such a thing) would help me in leveling it out AND help get the camber dialed back in. Does SRT have components to adjust the upper CAs out farther?
Any thoughts, comments or help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Couple of before & afters (gotta say I really like the overall look)
Here's a before pic from this morning:
After pic this evening (lighting isn't the best, but just went out there & took it)
Measure the front and rear of the pinch weld at the rocker. Not sure about these Jeeps, but on hot rods in the past I've been fooled by wheel arch measurements when determining rake or level. Just a thought. She's looking pretty good from here.
I'll check it in the morning. I noticed the difference right away before measuring actually. Agreed it does look pretty level from there in that pic.
After looking at the "before" pic, I don't think I could go back, LOL
I'm so anal about this stuff, I just want to get the camber dialed in foremost and to know it is indeed level, or have a very slight rake, to be a happy camper.
Thanks for the thought on measeument & compliment though, Governor. I appreciate it
I decided to pull the RM Mids back off and put the stock coils back in, keeping the Bilsteins in place. Just wasn't for me. I know lowered cars and have 2, a Mustang and a New Beetle on coilovers. I LOVE a lowered vehicle done the right way. But my Altitude, for me, just didn't work. Love a lowered WK2 SRT and there are lowered WK2s that look great too. Just didn't work for me.
Kind of an expensive mistake, but you don't know till you try.
If anyone is interested, I'll have them up for sale this weekend. Only been on for a week and only have about 75-80 miles on them.
Yeah, I asked him about that and he said they were. Chad simply had used a sharpie to write "F" & "R" on the springs... Not necessarily what I expected. I pointed that out to the installers.
Interestingly, another member here I've talking with recently put a set on his Altitude and had it squatting about a half inch in the back also,
Maybe a coincidence or maybe its just that the SRTs are suspended differently?
Have you swapped them out yet? I'm still wondering if it's not just an optical illusion due to difference in wheel opening heights. Would love to know the measurements at front and rear of rocker panel pinch weld.
They are getting swapped out today. I did measure at the "pinch weld" at the bottom of the rocker and it is a bit lower out back.
This is my wife's Jeep and I told her if she didn't like it lowered I would put it back up. She didn't. She told me that this is too much like a car now and that she wanted an SUV because it sits higher than cars and she has a better field of vision when sitting higher. Can't really argue with that logic.
After seeing it done, I didn't really like it as much as I thought I would either.
after looking at the pic on my much larger laptop and not my Samsung note....I think it looked perfect. maybe the front would've dropped a little more with time....but if you say the rear measured lower....then something was off. Do you have load leveling rear shocks? ie. tow package?
I did have the LL rears, but replaced all wih Bilstein 4600s. After the swap the front and rear are now perfectly level! By tape measure, with these Bilsteins, the front actually sits 1/2" higher than stock and the rear is down about 1", and IMO looks better. Perfect now for us, anyway. The ride with these shocks is a lot better now too. I'll post pics when I get home.
Here is a pic that I took yesterday in a parking lot next to a stock height Altitude. Hard to tell here, but it's a subtle (noticeable to me) height difference:
I like a "slightly modified" stock look
Nice & level. Rear brought down about an inch and the front is actually about 1/2" taller. However it turned out, I like it much better
OEM springs + Bilstein 4600s seemed to do it for me.
Like I tell friends that ask me why... I just can't roll stock, LOL
Mustang is lowered in Eibach Sportline springs and my new beetle is dropped on coil overs
I have the tow package and had the load leveling shocks.
My wife noticed the front was higher than before and noticed that she couldn't see over the hood like she used to. She's shorter than I am coupled with the additional lift up front, I understand.
Over the weekend I raised the driver's seat up quite a bit and it made a big difference for me. She didn't drive it yet but will today. Hopefully I get her approval, since it is her car.
I tried reading all of the "lowering" threads before posting anything...
so I have a 2011 base 2wd Laredo that I just added the oem 20s, added SRT exhaust, hitch, paint matching fender trim & rocker panels, and now I would like to lower the rear a tad. Right now my fronts sit 3.75" top of tire to fender trim gap, rears are 5.3125" gap passenger side and 5.625" gap driver's side. I do not want to raise the front but would like to possibly just lower the rear 1" - 1.25". So would just swapping out the rear shocks with Bilsteins do the trick? Or do I need to look at swapping out with SRT rear springs?
From my experience the Bilstein 4600s dropped the rear by 1". You could probably just swap out the rear shocks to get it to drop some.
But my preference is to change all 4 at one time just so the dampening works correctly instead of mixing & matching shocks. You can see from my pic above that, although the front did raise some, mine sits nice and level.