Jeep Garage  - Jeep Forum banner

Grand Willys project

383K views 2K replies 163 participants last post by  CNY_WK2 
#1 · (Edited)
This project has been brewing in my head for many years and been slowing gather parts and building a workshop and sheds to be able to do it.

The plan is to build a bit of a hotrod from using all the running gear, wiring, instruments, seats etc for one donor vehicle as much as possible.


Back in December 2007 I bought a Willys Pickup off eBay but it was a year before I got it home as had nowhere to store it. After much jumping through hoops with the council I built my workshop to house it.



After much looking and watching insurance auctions I was finally able to get a donor for the project. Ended up with a 2008 WH/WK Grand Cherokee with a 5.7 Hemi. It was first registered in 2009 and 12 months later T boned by a Harley rider doing a 100 mph! Hit it so hard that the foot well locked the throttle and he steered off the road into a paddock until he hit a tree.


One day these two will become one.


Getting the Grand into the workshop.


The Grand is in place ready for lots of measurements and then the strip down can begin!


Got a start on the project this week. Started by taking every measurement I could think of so I can setup all the suspension under the Willys when it gets transferred across. Also been labeling every wiring plug that I have found so far. Done the whole engine bay and have it all disconnected ready for removing once I can get to the others ends of the harness under the dash. Also unbolted every panel that can come off and removed the seats.


Being careful not to damage any of the trim when taking it apart in case I can sell any that I don't use.


Still go a few more things like the chrome roof bars, rear bumper and tail-lights to go outside.


Airbag under the dash cover was quite fiddly to get out.


What it looks like under the dash with the top cover off. Going to be fun getting all that into my Willys Pickup later.
 
See less See more
11
#1,217 ·

Well you can see the Ankor wax is doing a great job! As winter has started here, the cold nights with no wind causes condensation to drip off where the clear roofing is.


Going to tackle fixing the rust pitting. The rust has already been treated but has turned black from the lanolin oil mixed with dust over the years. I can't just grind this down as the pitting is deeper than it looks and has it on the top side near the same spot too!


Being a Wagon bumper, this has rusted where the corner piece bolts on over the top of this.


I will fix every gouge and stone chip on the whole bar.


I'm using my TIG for all this as I want to keep it soft so it doesn't stay proud from being hard when I get down to fine sanding and polishing. Just using some 1.2mm mig wire as the TIG filler, or even a coat hanger for the bigger deeper pits!


After filling every rust pit I carefully ground and sanded the welds smooth keeping the original bumper thickness. Looks fine but can see the profile has flattened from the welding heat. The old DD hammer on the bench will be used to stretch the area back out again.


Used a profile gauge to make sure the shape was back again and then carefully filed just enough to show the low spots that you can see. These were then hammered up until all gone rather than just keep filing.


Where I had filled the rust pitting on the flanges, I used the long board sander to show any low spots. Can see one of the dull spots above the marker. I mark the spot so when I flip it over I know exactly where to hit the dent up.


Using a 7" disc sander and going through the grades I have removed most of the chrome but there is still a lot of nickel left. Even though it was OEM, there was no copper under that.


Can see the profile is much rounder in the welded area now, like the rest of the bar, than before the stretching was done. This is far enough now to show me I have hammered out all the dents and filled the chips and scratch damage gathered in the last 70 years! The big dents I hammered out already a number of years ago.


I drilled out the original mounting holes to take the front parking sensors. I removed the holders from the trashed donor bumper 10 years ago. This one was is damaged though so wouldn't mind some more if anyone has a 2005-2010 Grand Cherokee with a damaged bumper. I can not find anywhere that sell the holders separately for the front of the Jeep. To the left of the sensor is where I repaired the rust damage and has come up fairly well.


The rear sensors are chrome so will use those on the front bumper so it blends in better. Just need to get a couple more as there are only 4 sensors on the back and 6 on the front.


Has always annoyed me that the 'I' wasn't dotted!


So I put some conveyor rubber over the top of a matching crown stake and hammered the punch into the surface. I then hammered around the dot using the drilled rod from the back so only the dot was sunk in. Hammering the punch directly over the drilled rod from the start would have been better, but keeping it balanced in the right spot was too hard to do on my own.


Whipped up a licence plate holder out of some 3mm-1/8" plate and bent the tab in my press.


The thickness allowed me to drill and tap the holes for the button head retaining screws which were sanded flush at the back. The rear plate I had ordered full size.


I decided on fitting it in the factory drivers side position. Held in place with some Holden HQ bumper bar bolts.


I'm wondering if to buy some stainless plate and remake it. Worried stones coming off the tyres will chip it badly.


Bumper now finished and have just dropped it off at the chromers. They said all my repairs and preparation means no extra cost to get the chroming redone.
 
#1,218 ·
Spare Willys bonnet was getting in the way and finally had everything I needed to use it for an awning over the garage side door. With winter here it will stop the rain from blowing in.

The local powder coaters are closing down and I happen to ask if he had any old headers for a project I had planned. He gave me these for free as someone had cut off one of the primaries. I had a few sets of 80 series Land Cruiser ARB bullbar tubes under the house that I thought I could make a replacement for it.


The new primary I made is on the left and think it blends in well enough. I also cut off all threaded bosses and welded up the holes that were for the water cooling as these were from a drag boat. Turns out a Dodge R5P7 NASCAR engine powered one! So still fits the theme of 'keeping it in the Mopar family'. :)


I made these mounting flanges up that block off the tubes to stop spiders, wasps, hornets etc making a home in them. I welded in a nut where the pipes merge to bolt through the wall of the garage.


Been knocking all the dents out of it even though it was actually straight on top to begin with! But the dents that had been filled in times past showed up underneath, so couldn't live with that. This was the best bonnet of the three that I had from the Willys Trucks and rust free too, except for some surface rust where the factory hadn't painted above the braces. Did a mockup and like what I see. Was very tempted to do a 'ratrod' or 'patina' look and call it done.


Got the dents out and have it in primer. Original plan was to go gray to match the existing roofing, but looks a bit top heavy. So will go with the cream the the bonnet was anyway.
 
#1,219 ·

Even with the sun out, we were only getting up to minimum spraying temperature. So lamps from the front and a blow heater from behind to get the steel warm enough. Paint warmed in hot water as well.


I reinforced the garage wall with leftover hat channel from when I built the garage originally. Above the door will have a pulling force and the end of headers have a compressive force.


The bonnet itself bolted to a set of angle brackets through the original hinge mounts. Only the block off/mounting brackets for the headers were added which act as bracing. The bonnet is still stock except I removed the safety latch and spring. Even the original ornament is back in position.


To keep the door from swinging around in the breeze, I have just used a simple pad bolt. There is a clear stick on bumper on the header tube as well as one behind the pad bolt on the flange.


All finished up and pleased about how it turned out. Been planning it for nearly 10 years, but waited until I knew I didn't mess up welding the wider bonnet together on the Willys first, and then to get some suitable headers that were cheap enough. Was worth the wait as these were free!


In the end the only thing I paid for was the paint. Might just be able to make out the Willys 'looking on' in the background.
 
#1,220 ·

I been trying different things like baby oil and trim restores etc. to keep where I have removed all the plastic protrusions the same as the surrounding areas. Like the first runner which has never been touched. But after awhile they all fade again.


After watching many youtube videos and reading forum posts on it with people using everything from peanut butter to heat guns, nothing lasts for long or it makes them brittle. I saw good reports though from an Australian product that is actually a die like printers ink that I will give a go.


Pretty clear to see that I have done the first two runners. You use only a few drops to load the foam brush each time.


Done them all now and you have to leave it for 24 hours while it dries and you must not allow it to get wet.


Was pretty cold so was still a bit left wet the next day so rubbed it with a cloth to remove the excess which dulled it down back to a stock look. Looks patchy in the photo but that is just from the lighting. I also used it on my Jeep which had some graying plastic and works really well there just like the video. Seems better on the textured surfaces. I'll report back over time to see how it holds up.
 
#1,222 ·
That porch roof is fantastic. Could you not use the top 6 inches of a grill to place at the front?
You give me way too many ideas. 😂👌
I did think about that but like the extra height through the front when carrying tall things in. You cannot also see the front from the workshop or the street as it faces the house and no windows there to see it from.
You could do this with a Range Rover bonnet!
 
#1,223 ·

I was was very fortunate that I was given a set of stock fuel rails from a 6.1 SRT HEMI engine as they had changed them for a billet pair from a fellow Ozrodder member Choco. I did a trial fit and the only thing I needed to do was alter the bend an the end of left one in the picture. It was at 90* like the other side originally. Just placed it in a vice with soft jaws and carefully straighted out the bend as shown.


They didn't come with the crossover fuel line so I cut mine off just each side of the barb. Even after softening it carefully with a heat gun, I couldn't pull it off the old rails. But my line was longer than I needed anyway so no problem. The line is nylon inside with a rubber feeling coating. I had to put the ends in a jug with the water boiling and quickly push it onto the barb that I had lubed with a bit of rubber grease. Held the rail in the vice so I could use both hands to force it on all the way. I added some single ear stainless hose clamps as well even though the factory didn't have them originally.


Here you can see why I had to bend the end a bit so the line can pass by the end of the intake runner.


The other side was fine and cleared. I had to put the whole line back into the boiling water to get it the flow around back of the intake as it is very stiff cold.


So no crossover line anymore. I also got my coil covers back from the powder coaters and had them done in a Mystic Silver Hammer Tone. I didn't want to look like I was pretending to have an early HEMI, so this gives it a modern twist and has both the silver and black colours they came in.


The hammer tone also hides the rust pitting that was left too and this colour choice allows me to leave the intake unpainted as well. Hence why the recent effort into making them look alright without paint. The chrome rails are subtle enough not to be in your face and fit with the stainless acorn nuts and screws that hold the covers in place.
 
#1,225 ·

Want to cover what is left after I plastic welded the fan/radiator support together. This was damaged in the accident that wrote off the donor Grand Cherokee. Be good to rid the area of some more plastic as well.


Found some old tin that will be good enough for the job. I mainly free handed a 'W' in the same style as the one embossed into the factory tailgate.


Using the art dies that came with this Eastwood roller. Strangely they are slightly too narrow so that the end bolts don't have pressure on them. Only then relying on the grub screw which I don't like. I found the bosses from old 5" and 9" cutoff and grinding wheels have the right diameter to make good spacers.


I was going to add the 'O' behind the 'W' as well but quite like the simplicity of this. I didn't have a bead die small enough for the bead lines each side, so used the art dies for them as well. You just have to turn the piece around and run back over itself again to do the other side of the forming the bead. I also put a joggle in along one edge so some pinch rubber sat closer to flush and stiffened up the edge as well.


As I didn't do any pre-stretching, I had to do it post rolling. It is too hard to judge the perfect amount of stretch you need anyway before hand. I hammered each side of the bead work as well as from the other side using a bolster to get the stretch it needs to have it all sitting flat and without any twisting.


Just hammered the screw driver to stretch around the 'W' and round the ends of the beads etc.


Think it looks better than the damaged plastic and adds a little styling touch while tidying up the area.


Not sure if I will have it painted satin black like the rest of the engine bay, from the pinch weld down on the firewall, or do it body colour? But for now at least, everything is pretty much done in the engine bay as everything has been wired and plumbed too, as far as I know.
 
#1,226 ·

Been looking at what mirrors to run that will be functional as well rather than just look cool. So that ruled out your peep mirrors as too small and not stable enough once on an arm long enough to see past back of the cab which is wider than the front. So settled on the good old West Coast Jr. mirrors that I got off Amazon, but are sold through Summit Racing, JEGS and eBay etc as well. K-Source H3541.


They come with a push in plug and galvanized self tapping screws to attach them which you can see in the picture. I decided to plug weld some flat steel bar, a bit larger than the mirror arm mounting surface, under the door skin and drill and tap them for some stainless button head screws.


I also replaced the galvanized arm bolts with stainless button heads as well.


The top of the door had some more flat welded in and tapped. I cut the mounting screws so they would be flush with the back of the flat bar. I was worried the depth of the supplied plugs and screws might hit the door frame.


These are fully adjustable as the arms can slide in and out of the mirror head as well as the door arms. The flange nut compresses a rubber like sleeve that slides over the tubing. I pushed the lower door arm in as far as it would go as well as into the top of the mirror to get it to sit as high as possible. Then adjusted the top door arm until the mirror was exactly vertical and the lower arm into the mirror until the arms were dead level.


The arm ends are hinged which works well as the cab tapers inwards a lot on these Willys Trucks.


The stainless screws look much better than what was supplied. I mounted it so the bracket was inline with the back of the forward door frame.


They are very stable and give a great view rearwards which will be needed as will be doing a lot of towing with my offroad camper trailer. It also pays to check to make sure the mirror glass is well seated as there were reports of them falling out even while still in the box. Mine look very secure so maybe they have responded to the complaints.


We have ears! Sorry but hard to see them with so much going on in the background!
 
#1,229 ·
Just still doing little jobs before I get into the next part of the build.


I will be running the donor steering wheel, along with the rest of the interior, as it has all the stereo, satnav, information screen and cruise controls etc on it. Never been keen on the amount of beige on the Limited's steering wheel though.


Thought first to just dye the non-leather parts to match the dark slate colour that the top of the dash is etc. You can see a piece of it on the left spoke.


In the end I just went all satin black instead to match the top of the steering wheel. The beige was also really hard to clean as showed up everything, so might as well get rid of it all. I could have gone all dark slate grey too like my 2010 Jeep KK Cherokee, but went the black like some of the SRT versions. Black supposed to be slimming right!


Another thing that has always annoyed me was the exposed fan to steering box lines and hoses. I thought about shortening them but noticed it was on the Jeeps with the hydraulic fans as a way to isolate and vibration being transferred to the steering box. Not for cooling as one would think as it already has a separate cooler and would have been all done in hard line at the very least if so. Even though this is all the same as stock, having a shorter bumper than the donor makes it more obvious and vulnerable when off-roading.


I still had the damaged fuel tank skid plate where they had used a fork lift at the auction yard to move the Jeep around. Thought I could straighten what I need and make the guard from this.


I just used one section from it and flipped half of it over to make it long enough. Thought with the pressings like this it looked more 2008 OEM which the rest of the drivetrain is from.


Think that offers some good protection and looks better too. I left to area above the cross-member open as it is behind the bumper and want the airflow over the engine sump.
 
#1,230 ·

I have always wanted to run the original donor wiper motor to keep it plug and play with the factory harness, but couldn't come up with a way to run it. So went with the cable system instead. Now that I have started on the cabin wiring, I ran into a problem that the donor wiring and motor has 4 wires and the cable motor 5. The cable motor runs three brushes with a different pair for the 2 speeds. The donor, according to the diagnostics section, runs at 5 volts for low and 10 volts for high. It is all controlled by a computer as well and there is more monitoring of its position other than just park.


They work the same way drivewise with a worm on the motor shaft driving a gear wheel, but are a mirror image. No easy way to swap one with the other in this configuration.


Stripped the cable system down to nut out way to adapt to the donor motor. The electronics in the donor is part of the gearbox, so no way just to try and swap the motors over.


Then I thought why not drive the shaft of the cable system directly from the donor gearbox output shaft. Just got to figure an easy way to do it as the cable shaft sits flush on the outside of the cable housing.


Popped it into the lathe and drilled and taped the end of the shaft to the same thread of the donor shaft. I could just just thread it on. I also cut the original nut down to make a half nut to lock it in place.


The half nut also allowed me to fine tune the park position between the motor and the cable drive. I cut away everything I didn't need from the cable motor mount to give me room under the dash.


I made a whole new mount for it and had the benefit of now it not pressing on the air duct and transferring the noise through it. The duct now can go under it and the motor is above the glovebox. It sits on 4 rubber isolators instead of the three it had as these rubbers are much softer than the factory ones.
 
#1,231 ·

Time to get started on the body and dash wiring harnesses!


Laid them out to sort them into their groups. I started with the dash harness first as I will be using that completely. It all plugged back in to where is was before and even the same holes for the harness ties etc. Big advantage of using the donor firewall/floor and dash support.


Now the surgery begins on the body harness. Lots here I won't be using so have to un-tape it and take out one wire at a time in most cases and trace them back to their source. Can't just cut both ends and pull it out as often the factory had other wires spliced into it with something I do want to keep! I always left enough wire from a major junction plug just in case I made a mistake or want to tap into it later on for something else.


The inspector has arrived! Starting to tidy the wire back up into groups again as they were laid out in the donor. Working the bundles in from the ends towards the middle. Fortunately I had labeled everything as I was stripping the donor in the first place. Also the unused plugs. I started with removing those first and often ended up at another set of used plugs. Nothing was plugged in or attached to the harness along the whole way. Most likely for things like optional DVD player and satellite radio etc.


The coiled up wire is some of what I removed. All the wiring for the rear doors, tailgate etc. I also rolled up and bundled all the airbag sensor and bag wiring together. I should have checked to see if the engine would start and drive without the airbag module connected before I started stripping the donor. I have left all the sensors connected and will plug into the module to start with. If it starts and runs I can then just unplug it all and remove it. Hopefully I don't have to plug in all the airbags as well to get it to run! Would have to use simulators in that case.


Dash harness all in but still a lot of sorting once things are in their new places. I have for instance put the factory amplifier in the dash where the passenger airbag used to be. The wiring for it used to extend all the way to the back of the Jeep and was mounted under the D pillar trim by the rear hatch.


I found a good spot for the park assist and transfercase, (FDCM), modules that were mounted under the back seat. I am mounting them where the rear DVD player went on some optioned up models from mine in the back of the console. Rear cover clips in over it and you won't know it is there.


I have shortened and extended harnesses for things as I have them mounted in their final position. Unfortunately that big thick loop of wire is all extra length I don't need! Can't say I am looking forward to cutting one wire at a time and shortening the whole thing. This is extra because the harness used to run down each side of the cabin by the door sills and crossover under the back seat area. I have run it all under the console instead as my door seal is flush with the floor height and it now also doesn't cross over as far back. Tempting to pull the excess back under the dash somewhere and loop it or under the seats on the floor. Another thing that worries me is this is all run on a CAN-bus system with twisted pairs of wires running the data. I don't know if shortening those wires such a great deal will affect the resistance too much and cause errors? I just don't know enough about this and this is all a big learning curve for me. Has cutting out the rear doors and hatch wiring even affected it? If anyone knows more about this, please chime in.
 
#1,232 ·

Committed to cutting out the extra length of the loom! In for a penny, in for a pound. The left over coils of wires are the airbag sensors and curtain airbags.


I also ran the loom on the other side of the tunnel to keep some separation just in case it affects the EMI. Now to tidy up all the airbag sensor wiring.


Did some research and the airbag module looks for a resistance to see if the airbags are plugged in or not. This won't stop the Jeep from running, just set off the dash light and a DTC (Data Trouble Code). I need to measure the resistance of the different types of airbags it has in case there is a difference between them. Steering, passenger dash, and two curtain airbags. Later models you need to measure the seat belt pretensioners as well.


I have dual stage bags so have to measure both ports. There is a shorting bar that connects both pins as soon as you unplug it. So you have to isolate the bar to get the correct resistance reading. I'm just using the end of a nylon zip tie. You can just make out the copper bar at the bottom of the yellow port. Spring loaded fingers is what they are like.


I must admit I was a bit nervous putting the meter probes on the pins having heard rumours of any electrical current setting them off. But saw an airbag company video doing their testing this way so felt better about doing it. This is where I learnt how to check them as well. Both stages showed 2.1 Ohms resistance.


The passenger bag even had the plug with the same shorting bar. So did the same trick for both stages. 2.1 Ohms as did the curtain airbags.


So I shortened all the coils of wire for the sensors and curtain airbags. I bolted the sensors together. I also measured the resistance of the length of wire I cut out and it came to 0.3 Ohms. So the resistance valve I will use in the end of the shortened curtain airbag loom plugs will be 2.4 ohms. I did learn that they have a tolerance of 0.3 Ohms up or down to account for wire length and contact differences etc. I'd rather add the higher value to get it as close as possible to start with. Time will tell as I don't have them yet to try.


I have tucked the sensors under the other loom and on top of the padded isolation, as I don't want them bouncing around.


Just when you think you have done most of your looms, the headliner has a big one too! Looked a bit much for just the map and courtesy lights, turns out yet another module up there for the cabin temperature and compass receiver. Think there was an optional DVD player there too? Loom is all sorted and now installed in the Willys.


And look what happened. I nervously connected the battery and turned the ignition fob, wireless ignition in these, and the dash lit up. Accidently turned too far and it tried to start as well! No fuel in the tank though. Happy days.
 
#1,235 ·
Taking a lot restraintait, that is for sure!
Worse still is that we have just entered 6 weeks of lock down where I am not allowed to leave home unless for medical reasons, 1 hr of exercise within the curfew, or get groceries!
 
#1,236 ·

My resistors for the airbags came in. Got 10 packs of three different values in case I need to increase them a bit.


Just folded the legs in half and then they were a good fit for the sockets. Tried to see if the airbags light went out and.......it stayed on. So I plugged in all my actual airbags in and tried them without the resistors and it did the same thing. The seat plugs are also wired into the airbag module to detect, and some models, weigh the occupants. Maybe because they are not installed it is doing it? Will have to wait for another time.


Decided to fit a CJ7 Jeep antenna as the donor one was in the rear quarter glass window. Cut a backing plate for the mount out of some scrap stainless steel.


Plug welded the stainless backing plate in so there wont be any flexing of the cowl once the antenna is installed.


As the cowl is angled, I made a new 3* wedge gasket out of some high density plastic. Just slowly whittled it down on the linisher.


I put it on the drivers side as less likely to get trees striking it that way.


Now the antenna is perfectly vertical from every angle.


I knew the wiper sweep would be too short when I ordered the wiper motor as it came with a 110* drive gear. This is where it stops if started from perfectly inline with the bottom of the screen.


I measured how much the drive rack sticks out in this position. 51mm or 2".


With the rack disconnected from the drive gear I could move it to where I would prefer it to stop. This was a total of 125* of sweep.


Now the rack sticks out 56mm or 2-5/32"


Now you can just go out and buy a 125* drive gear and swap it in as they come in 5* increments from 90*-130* for the 14w motor. 14w WIPER Drive Gear from 90 degrees to 130 - Classic &AMP Vintage Car Parts from SVC - The Best Prices


But to save some money, and a lot of time waiting for a gear to come from the UK to Australia during the COVID-19 pandemic, plus I like to do things myself, I thought I would move the pivot point instead. Now I need a total of 5mm-3/16" of extra movement of the drive rack. So that means only having to move the pivot half of that as you gain movement at each end of the stroke. I thought it was easier to cut a piece of the plate out with the pivot point and reweld it further out. I also moved it to the other side of the plate as it worked out better getting an extra half turn on to my donor wiper motor shaft adaption. No need to do this with a standard 14w motor setup.


Placed some copped plate under it and filled in the gaps with weld.


Cleaned up the welds and took away the excess radius around the pivot point.


All back in place with the extra sweep I wanted.


Just before going into lockdown for the COVID-19, I was able to pickup my rechromed pieces.


I finally got to put in my emblem that I bought 10 years ago! Bought it directly from the maker back then, but now are sold through Willys suppliers. Willys Overland Center Glue In Emblem, 1953-1963 Station Wagon | Jeepster Man Inc


A few more pieces done.
 
#1,237 ·
Got a year specific workshop manual downloaded for my 2008 donor and it is states the airbag module checks both seats which have a position sensor so it can calculate have much force and timing of the airbag deployment. So might still get rid of the light once they are plugged in.


As I have my front bumper back from being rechromed, time to add the parking assist sensors. Have to make a harness for them so might as well be comfortable while doing it. So have a stool to save my back and my Dr. Who Tardis mug filled with 1/2 a litre of coffee!


I was able to carefully remove the sensor holders from the damaged donor front bumper and put new automotive double sided tape on them to stick them back on this bumper. I'm still after another set for the rear sensors if anyone has some.


Just painting the Willys stamped in script. I use these ZIG Painty enamel paint pens from Japan just bought at the local newsagent.


You shake the pen to mix the paint inside with a ball bearing just like a spray can. Then depress the tip to flow the paint into the tip. Keeps well if you keep them stored tip down.



Any paint that goes outside the stamped script I just wipe off with a cotton rag dipped in acetone pulled tightly over a small screw driver.


I made a new licence plate holder from some scrap stainless that had been power coated. Used a strip disc to remove the power coat and emery paper and a little polishing mop in the drill. Bumper is held on using Holden FB/EK bumper bolts and the licence plate holder with HD/HQ ones.


Bumper back on again. Still trying to get two more OEM chrome 2006-2008 WK/WH rear parking sensors.Think they blend in well and look like the original bumper bolts from a distance.


I kept the off cuts from the dash top. I will use them to get the hole templates for the parking assist display and the sun sensor. I have to move them back into the remainder of the dash pad.


The parking sensor lights up leds from the outside in depending on how close you are. Only one side will light up on the side the obstacle is on if offset. The sun sensor has two inside so it knows which side the sun is shinning on to vary the A/C left to right. Also used to turn on the auto headlights.


I didn't make the cab quite wide enough to fit the dash pad in, even though the rest of the dash fits lower down. Was hard to calculate exactly where the A pillar and dash angles was going to end up in relation to each other when I was working out the width of the cab.


I have cut out a small wedge to pull in a much as I can without cutting into the top vent for the side window defroster vent.


Using a soldering iron, I plastic welded it back together from the under side. I hold the iron at about 45* and push most of the way into the thickness of the material before pulling up and going back in directly behind the last dip. Need good strength here as the plastic was under tension. I cut that long piece from the scrap dash part to melt in over the top of the join.


The extra piece has been melted into the back of the first weld to strengthen the join.


A very light pass over the top with the iron and you would not notice it very easily.
 
#1,238 ·
Just a little update.


The donor air ducts were a weird shape and there was not enough room to run them as is. So remoulded, shaped and plastic welded them to take flexible ducting instead.


Top one is the side window defrost and the lower is the normal outlet.


I have a new roll of the original door rubber profile, but want to keep that for after it is painted. It needs to be glued on so no way to remove it intact. But to get a roadworthy I have to have door rubber in place, so the local Clark Rubber store had some self adhesive auto rubber that I thought could work.


It fits really well and might even use some more after paint! The cutouts at the bottom are so the water drains are not blocked.


I dropped the donor leather seats into place. Full electric with lumbar adjustment and heated etc. Easy job as they will just bolt into the donor floor I have used. Tested to see if the airbag light would go out and now it does. :)


Also fitted 'A' profile V belts to replace the rotted out tack strips. Fit perfectly and will take staples well too I read for the upholstery.
 
#1,241 ·
Just wondering on choosing some rear lights for the Willys. I must have amber turn signals/indicators so rules out a lot of US based lights that I like. I can get the ones I have on the front from a Chevy in red also, so could make a pair that way. Another thought is to make all my lights from a Defender as I already have the LED headlights that were on some of them. They are the same size overall but the Land Rover ones would show more lens and are domed versus flat of the Chevy ones. I like the chrome on both of them as ties in with the headlights etc.





 
#1,242 ·
As I can't go out and buy any supplies during the COVID-19 lockdown, so good I can use more of 'might come in handy one day' things. :D

Making some door armrests from scratch. I first started by coming up with a top shape that I liked. Then cut a template from some sheet steel. Held it 90* to the bench while I laid over some card to get the side template. With the curved part hanging over the bench, the card could be rolled over the edge and the excess marked and cut off to be flat with the bench top.


They are tapered to better suit the wedge shape of the cab as the back of the doors are further away from the seats than the front.


Using steel that was once office shelves, I cut the top and back to be one piece after folding it. The sides were from another office shelf.


Rolled the ends over a pipe T dolly using a lead beating bat I bought while in England as a souvenir. I'm nothing but practical! No hammer marks this way and gives a nice even roll right across the piece.


Just sitting there but fits up very well without gaps. I left the base long so it stays flat and square. After it is tack welded together, I can just cut the rest off.


It will sit at the same height off the floor as the top of the console for good ergonomics. Making sure I have enough room for the speakers as well.


I didn't like the generic window switches that came with the electric window kit, so using the donor Jeep ones to keep it all plug and play as well. It also has the central and window lock controls.


I fitting some laminated ply to the top so the switch plates could be recessed.


I have the switch plates just shy of flush by the thickness of the leather that will be applied. More to come on these while I wait for the recessed pull handles to arrive and will make a leather padded piece that will cover the whole arm rest. It will have a cut out just for the front window and central locking switches, (hiding the rear pair), and another for the recessed handle.
 
#1,243 ·
Sorry but posting is going to be all over the place, or nothing at all for a while. I have to keep changing from one thing to another while waiting for parcels to arrive due to the lock down still on in my state. Longest running in the world now!

Anyway, rather than waiting until I can show completing things in a logical order, I can post as little thing get done in the meantime.


I ran into a problem when I tried the new H4 LED headlights for the first time. They would not change from low to high after converting from the donor twin bulb setup. Fortunately help from good friend at Jeep R Us, Richard Curly, suggested to try a CANBUS Error Cancelation Module, preferably one that works with Jeeps PWM, Pulse Width Modulation, system. I found these from STEDI and it fixed the problem completely. H4 CANBUS Cancellation Module I have mounted them to the radiator support as these do generate heat.


I wired the DRL, Day Time Running Lights, as my parkers as only use them while driving at dusk, dawn and foggy conditions. Before adding the module they would strobe once turned on, but for some reason that got fixed as well which is a bonus.


The NARVA inserts use a LED projector for low beam. Notice also that my LED indicators are also glowing dimly which they shouldn't. Adding a 6 Ohm load resistor fixed that.


When on high beam the low beams remain on as well. The lights give a very clean cut off so wont blind oncoming drivers.


Testing here the best position to mount my new chrome windscreen washers. I decided to order two twin squirters to give good coverage to the split windscreen.


Was able to save having them in the bonnet and the hoses will run under the dash instead. The exact centre of each windscreen half put it inline with the hinge. These are are good quality as machined from solid brass and are Lucas style as fitted to many early English cars.


Also got some chrome plated cast steel wiper bezels. These seal against the cowl completely leak free, unlike the last set I tried made from a soft rubber. These suit early Minis, Triumph Spitfire & GT6 and MGB's. These and the wiper washes were bought from Classic Bits on eBay. Classic Bits | eBay Stores


I scored in that the bezel kept the wiper wheel box at the correct angle which is parallel to the glass angle. Otherwise the wipers will not run smoothly as the pressure will change throughout the sweep if not matched.


Just got my Defender LED upgrade pack in. I found there were three main versions of these and I chose the NSLUMO brand, although the box says Vinstar, as they had more obvious beehive rings which looked more period and made the LED's less visible. They have the E and SAE codes on the lenses. Can get them on Amazon or eBay. The other two popular brands are WIPAC and RDX.


I also imported from the UK some chrome plated brass rings for the more old school look. Bought from Parts for Classic Land Rovers. Parts for Classic Land Rovers | eBay Stores


Probably still prefer the chrome ring around the 39 Chevy LED's, but couldn't get matching reversing lights, only stop/tail for the rear set. If anybody in Australia wants the Chevy LED's, will sell them for $70 AUD which is below what it cost me to land them here.


The LR upgrade pack came with a LED flasher relay, but the donor Jeep does not run one and uses the Front Control Module to control them. The lights would glow as soon as the computer became active and then would be dim and hyper flash when turned on. I fitted a 50w 6 Ohm load resistor between the positive and negative wires. 4 in total just for the indicators/turn signals as the circuit is split left to right and front to rear. So one for each corner of the vehicle, but didn't need extra for the side ones.


Got a nice classic look to them but with the modern twist I am after.


So front lights now all working and finished. I also got the final two chrome parking sensors for the bumper as well.
 
Top