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Grand Willys project

383K views 2K replies 163 participants last post by  CNY_WK2 
#1 · (Edited)
This project has been brewing in my head for many years and been slowing gather parts and building a workshop and sheds to be able to do it.

The plan is to build a bit of a hotrod from using all the running gear, wiring, instruments, seats etc for one donor vehicle as much as possible.


Back in December 2007 I bought a Willys Pickup off eBay but it was a year before I got it home as had nowhere to store it. After much jumping through hoops with the council I built my workshop to house it.



After much looking and watching insurance auctions I was finally able to get a donor for the project. Ended up with a 2008 WH/WK Grand Cherokee with a 5.7 Hemi. It was first registered in 2009 and 12 months later T boned by a Harley rider doing a 100 mph! Hit it so hard that the foot well locked the throttle and he steered off the road into a paddock until he hit a tree.


One day these two will become one.


Getting the Grand into the workshop.


The Grand is in place ready for lots of measurements and then the strip down can begin!


Got a start on the project this week. Started by taking every measurement I could think of so I can setup all the suspension under the Willys when it gets transferred across. Also been labeling every wiring plug that I have found so far. Done the whole engine bay and have it all disconnected ready for removing once I can get to the others ends of the harness under the dash. Also unbolted every panel that can come off and removed the seats.


Being careful not to damage any of the trim when taking it apart in case I can sell any that I don't use.


Still go a few more things like the chrome roof bars, rear bumper and tail-lights to go outside.


Airbag under the dash cover was quite fiddly to get out.


What it looks like under the dash with the top cover off. Going to be fun getting all that into my Willys Pickup later.
 
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#1,343 ·
Thanks guys. :)

Ran a very high concentrate of fuel injector cleaner through it today and now it purrs and no check engine light! :)

I let it idle for 20 minutes or so and the temp started to climb. The hydraulic fan was barely moving so was worried but knew there would be air in the system too. Suddenly it ramps up speed and a lot of air came into the reservoir as I moved the steering from lock to lock. All connected to the same system. Noticed water wasn't circulating either with a cold top hose so must be a stuck thermostat. Was about to shut it down as getting nearer the red zone and heard a click and it released itself and temperature plummeted. Tried several more runs and just sits at the correct temp perfectly now and the fan speed varies accordingly to need. Most of the time not needed at all.

Very happy it fixed itself. :)

Only problem I have is when trying to accelerate, while on the jack stand without wheels on, the traction control is kicking in madly and triggering the ABS. Not sure if it is because I still have to bleed the pump using the scan tool or it is getting confused without any wheels on and no road speed?
 
#1,344 ·
Only problem I have is when trying to accelerate, while on the jack stand without wheels on, the traction control is kicking in madly and triggering the ABS. Not sure if it is because I still have to bleed the pump using the scan tool or it is getting confused without any wheels on and no road speed?
Yes, without the front wheels tuning, it'll do that. If you turn off the traction control it should spin them.
 
#1,348 ·

I had to wait positioning the fuel filler until I knew exactly how long I was going to make the rear guards and where they sat on the bedsides. So I have to go from the flush fuel filler in my hand, under the cross member and then into the white inlet in the tank you see facing the rear of the vehicle.


This is the stainless steel stock filler from the Grand Cherokee. It starts at 50mm-2" and steps down to 25mm-1" for the rest of the way. It used to fill from behind the axle line and I need it to go in front of it.


I need a very short run from the filler before it turns 90* under the cross member. I trimmed both sides of the reducer as much as possible and formed a bead around the end of it to stop the hose slipping off.


I made my own bead tool from an old pair of cheap locking plies. Just built weld up and ground it to suit. The top jaw that goes inside the tube the raised part has a convex arc and the bottom two parts concave for the outside.


The advantage of using locking plies is that you can set the tension so it will always clamp the same depth as you go around bit by bit. I just went around a few times increasing the depth until it was what I was after.


Quick clean up with the finger sander with a scotch-brite belt and it is ready to go. The other end the weld seam will do the same thing.


The filler is 38mm-1.5" and it then goes to the original filler neck of 50mm-2" using a fuel filler hose for a Fiat that had those sizes and even the bend I needed. I will then use the universal Z fuel filler/oil hose for the other bends as well as one from the original filler tube. Never use radiator hose as it is different type of rubber and will break down over time.


The bead plies work just as well with the 25mm-1" stainless tube. I found it easier to clamp the plies into the vice so I could just use them one handed while slowly rotating the tube and re-clamping. The smaller the increments the better the bead. Didn't even have to clean this up afterwards. Be great for radiator and intake tubing as well.


Using the original part of the filler gave me the vent tube as well. I kept the run as short as possible to give a good fall. It drops 150mm-6" and I tested it emptying a full jerry can as quickly as the flexible spout on it allowed. Didn't even burp! Not the cleanest look but none will be visible once the bed goes back on. I'd rather this than the impracticality of a in the bed floor filler.
 
#1,353 ·
I like to go around and finish off any details before moving on to the next stage of the build. Otherwise they may never get done!


The fuel filler now in place. Not 100% happy on the all black though.


So I bought another clear anodised one and swapped in the cap.


Now I think it ties in which the wheels with the alloy centre, black ring and stainless steel bolts.


When I first ran the engine for 20 minutes to get it up to full temperature, I noticed the floor under the drivers seat got quite hot. Not above the cat mind you, as I had already welded a heat shield over that, but the left bank 3" stainless pipe running next to it. So I made a stainless heat shield to be above both pipes and sits 20mm-3/4" off the floor. I put the ribs in to give it some strength.


Also turned a stainless bend from a roll bar into a heat shield where the exhaust was closest to the spare tyre.


The gap was around 50mm-2" but rather give some more protection. The resonator, being of the glass pack type was much cooler on the outside, and has an even bigger gap to the tyre.


Simplified the slot for the tailgate catches as well. Polished the brushed look they had so it now matches the bed strips and chrome etc.


Another thing I noticed was the rear guard-fender bolts were getting pulled inwards. It also created gaps between the bolts on the outside where the guard bolted on. Found there was excess material right along the bedside, but not at each end where it is supported by the stake pockets. I had already stretched all the spot welds but this still remained.


Spent some time with just a 5" shrinking disc on my grinder shrinking the panel all the way along on the inside. No air or water was used to cool it. Used a long straight edge in the other direction too to check the panel that way. Takes some patience to get it nice and flat again. I did it with the panel vertically as having it horizontally would have changed the way the panel lay.


Another detail I attended too was changing the ends of the stake pockets from just being squared off. I decided to give them the same 50mm-2" radius as all the other rounded corners on the bed. I cut higher than where the bead ended to maintain the same amount of flat area at each end of the bead.


Can see how it matches the radius of the rolled top.


I was worried how it would look with the step gusset, but think it looks fine.


Blends in better with the skirt end as well.


I'm calling the bed now finished! Well at least until I build my hard cover later on.
 
#1,355 ·
Marcus, enjoyed the detailed walk around video.
The new Jeep Gladiator has nothing over your home brewed Willys. (y)

Not knowing the bureaucracy in your country, do you anticipate any bureaucratic hurdles getting it legally titled and licensed?
Your Willys would be an eye stopper driving on the roads here in the States and i'm sure it will be also in your country.
 
#1,356 ·
Marcus, enjoyed the detailed walk around video.
The new Jeep Gladiator has nothing over your home brewed Willys. (y)

Not knowing the bureaucracy in your country, do you anticipate any bureaucratic hurdles getting it legally titled and licensed?
Your Willys would be an eye stopper driving on the roads here in the States and i'm sure it will be also in your country.
I had to use original chassis rails and at least two stock cross members to stop it becoming a ICV or Individually Constructed Vehicle. That is a whole another level of testing and complexity. This has to still go through a full engineers inspection and then a roadworthy before even turning up at the registration office where it is inspected and photographed again for future evidence. Why I used so many parts from the WH as easier to prove that they work together etc.
 
#1,357 ·
Thought it was a good time for the engineer to come out and inspect the Willys in person for the first time. I had been in contact right at the start of the build when I was making sure I could do this project and get full registration at the end of it. So he had followed the build on my website and knew how everything was done. I still wanted him to see it though before I started with interior trim so he could inspect seat belt, seat, steering column mounts etc. before they are covered up.

Well he couldn't find a single thing wrong! :)

Certainly was made easier using everything from the one donor because all compatible and that it also had a higher kerb weight than the Willys.
He said fully assemble it and do some testing miles on it on a unregistered vehicle permit, Unregistered vehicle permits : VicRoads, and then he will finish checking everything that is not fitted yet and do a driveability test etc.

Best outcome I could have hoped for. :)
 
#1,361 ·

Going to make a one piece headliner like that of the Grand Cherokee donor as it is a modern theme inside the cab. I will incorporate the overhead console which has yet another CANBUS module inside of it.


Being still in lockdown, using up what I have collected for the steel off the roadside. Starting with some office furniture shelves!


Rolling a edge first over the stake dolly using a flipper.


Bent some wire in the shape I want the centre section to be and used the shrinker stretcher to follow it. Part of it must match exactly the factory overhead console insert.


The office shelf wasn't long enough so added to each end. Notice I narrowed the rolled over flange so the shrinker stretcher could do the tighter curve.


Next doing the section each side above the windscreen. Using the English wheel with a flat anvil to pull over to get a non-compound curve that I am after.


The door end is being rounded over to flow into the section that will go over the door. Shrunk the edge and then hammered it over this form I picked up years ago at the scrap merchant.


I made mounts welded to the cab frame to screw the donor sunvisors into. They also have the vanity mirrors that light up that the cab is already wired for.


Dug out the offcuts from the Willys bonnets I cut up to make my bigger version. They have some surface rust now as I never coated them with anything.


Cleaned them up using stainless steel wool from the supermarket, soaked in phosphoric acid. I will use these sections to go over the door openings.


I need to increase the compound curve to suit the rear corners. Hammering into a very old base from a steam powered gold stamper! Using just a cheap hardware store ballpeen hammer that I rounded the face on to make a blocking hammer.


I needed more shrink than the shrinker could give so going old school using a tucking fork that I made from a wreaking bar. Its great as has an adjustable angle to the shaft.


Hammered down the tucks being careful not to stretch the metal in the process. It is a real art and I need much more practise at it.


Smoothed out the tucks with a high crown anvil that matched the curve I was after. Making sure not to use much pressure as can stretch it all back out again otherwise.


The bonnet curve was too straight to suit the roof profile. So hammered more shape in an arc with the blocking hammer over the sand bag.


Wheeled out the walnuts and got the shape I was after.


Over the middle of the door opening I am fitting a grab handle so needed a flat area for that to sit in. Just clamped it down to the bench and chased in the profile using mainly rounded cold chisels.


The handle was over the back door originally and has a interior light and a coat hook. I already have the wire harness in place for that too.


When making the cab frame I already integrated the mount for the grab handle, so didn't have to make anything now for it. The next section will be along the back wall.
 
#1,366 ·
Just a thought regarding the headliner.
When my XJ's headliner was sagging so much that it blocked the vision from the wind shield so decided to replace it.
Believe it or not i found genuine headliner material locally at one of those women's fabric stores, forget the name of the store.
It was a gray color close to the original but you know what i never want to do another headliner again.:confused:
Did it myself with no helper, took a day and a half and a couple six packs.
Your cab should be much much easier.

If you plan on listening to a lot of music in the Willys i strongly suggest using a fabric headliner and back panel with foam backings for both.
If you go this route, use only contact cement designed for headliners as it will hold up under the hot sun beating on the roof.
 
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#1,367 ·
I've been putting radiant barrier and insulation above the headliners on cars that I build. On my dark blue Javelin it keeps the interior much cooler. I glue the radiant barrier to the inside of the roof skin first, then follow with the insulation. I use Boom Mat's Under Carpet Light for insulation. Amazing stuff.
 
#1,368 ·
I have foam backed headliner that matches the original WH Grand Cherokee one and therefore the plastics coming. I have closed cell insulation that will go on the back of the metal skin as well as the thick panels that the WH had as well. After paint have a special heat one that will stick directly to the roof skin.
Should help all together make a nice environment.
 
#1,369 ·

Starting on the rear part of the headliner with more tuck shrinking. This time I had the tucks to the outside and found it a bit easier to crush them down as I had a male form to do it over.


As you would expect it is getting quicker to make the compound corners. This meets up with the other half already done on the pieces over the door opening.


Welded the first three pieces together.


Even though the headliner skin will be covered with flat knit foam backed headliner material to match the Grand Cherokee interior, I still take the time to hand planish and wheel it.


Passenger side in place and can see how it flows better but still giving as much headroom over the seat as possible.


Driver side done and even matches!


I have it tucking in behind the rear window frame. Two more pieces left to go. I will leave welding to the console last so I can take the two side pieces out to weld and planish them easier.
 
#1,370 ·
Great fab'ing as always.
But i'm a little confused as to what those headliner fabrications are going to accomplish.
Do you plan on installing switches, gauges, etc. in those upper panels and/or cabin structural integrity?
 
#1,371 ·
The centre section will carry the Grand Cherokee piece that holds one of the CANBUS modules as well as the map reading lights and sunglass compartment. The rear part of it over the window will hold the reverse parking indicator.
The whole thing gets covered in foam backed headlining material glued directly to the headliner skin. The other side of it will have sound and heat insulation.
 
#1,372 ·
Excellent!
As i mentioned earlier, looking forward to seeing the interior completed.

Couldn't help but notice that radius forming anvil (i assume) reminds me of a giant Minie' Ball used in mid 1800's rifled muskets, grease grooves and all.
If it were made out of lead and had a hollowed out base it could be used as the projectile in a rifled barrel cannon. :)


Automotive tire Grey Car Automotive design Automotive exterior
 
#1,373 ·
Excellent!
As i mentioned earlier, looking forward to seeing the interior completed.

Couldn't help but notice that radius forming anvil (i assume) reminds me of a giant Minie' Ball used in mid 1800's rifled muskets, grease grooves and all.
If it were made out of lead and had a hollowed out base it could be used as the projectile in a rifled barrel cannon. :)


View attachment 238068
Well there you go. :) I have no idea what it was actually meant for as was just in the scrap bin at the metal recyclers and is solid aluminium.
 
#1,374 ·

I needed a bit more than the flat part of the shelf for the last part of the headliner. I started unfolding one side using wide mouthed clamping pliers.


By the time it was rolled over a stake and run through the English wheel, you can't tell where the folds were.


Welded into place.


I have trimmed it and it is now ready to scribe against the console so it can be butt welded into place.


Other side also done ready for welding everything together.
 
#1,375 ·
Its coming along nicely.
Is that an old sheet metal shelf you re-purposed?
Great fab'ing.
Yeah those vice grip sheet metal pliers do come in handy every now and then.
No doubt when finished your Willys is going to be the center of attraction at car shows.

-------------------------------------------------
As a non-related aside,
i started a thread in the Community Help forum regarding embedded pictures being severely cropped and/or overwriting the the reply etc. buttons which prevents me from replying to threads. Happened all of a sudden a few days ago.
So far i've had no replies from the admins or forum staff.

Now i'll be damned,
enter your latest post of 6 hrs. ago and your embedded pictures came out perfectly normal.
Far as i can tell the only thing different is you inserted text between each of your pictures or the problem all of a sudden cleared up. We'll see.
Pictures from older posts however are still cropped and overwriting.

Nothing has changed on my end but i'm wondering if anything recently changed on the forum's end.
 
#1,376 ·
Its coming along nicely.
Is that an old sheet metal shelf you re-purposed?
Great fab'ing.
Yeah those vice grip sheet metal pliers do come in handy every now and then.
No doubt when finished your Willys is going to be the center of attraction at car shows.

-------------------------------------------------
As a non-related aside,
i started a thread in the Community Help forum regarding embedded pictures being severely cropped and/or overwriting the the reply etc. buttons which prevents me from replying to threads. Happened all of a sudden a few days ago.
So far i've had no replies from the admins or forum staff.

Now i'll be damned,
enter your latest post of 6 hrs. ago and your embedded pictures came out perfectly normal.
Far as i can tell the only thing different is you inserted text between each of your pictures or the problem all of a sudden cleared up. We'll see.
Pictures from older posts however are still cropped and overwriting.

Nothing has changed on my end but i'm wondering if anything recently changed on the forum's end.
Used 8 metal shelves in all and two bonnet sides to make it. :)

I have no involvement in the running of this forum at all so don't know anything about the problem, sorry.
 
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