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Grand Willys project

383K views 2K replies 163 participants last post by  CNY_WK2 
#1 · (Edited)
This project has been brewing in my head for many years and been slowing gather parts and building a workshop and sheds to be able to do it.

The plan is to build a bit of a hotrod from using all the running gear, wiring, instruments, seats etc for one donor vehicle as much as possible.


Back in December 2007 I bought a Willys Pickup off eBay but it was a year before I got it home as had nowhere to store it. After much jumping through hoops with the council I built my workshop to house it.



After much looking and watching insurance auctions I was finally able to get a donor for the project. Ended up with a 2008 WH/WK Grand Cherokee with a 5.7 Hemi. It was first registered in 2009 and 12 months later T boned by a Harley rider doing a 100 mph! Hit it so hard that the foot well locked the throttle and he steered off the road into a paddock until he hit a tree.


One day these two will become one.


Getting the Grand into the workshop.


The Grand is in place ready for lots of measurements and then the strip down can begin!


Got a start on the project this week. Started by taking every measurement I could think of so I can setup all the suspension under the Willys when it gets transferred across. Also been labeling every wiring plug that I have found so far. Done the whole engine bay and have it all disconnected ready for removing once I can get to the others ends of the harness under the dash. Also unbolted every panel that can come off and removed the seats.


Being careful not to damage any of the trim when taking it apart in case I can sell any that I don't use.


Still go a few more things like the chrome roof bars, rear bumper and tail-lights to go outside.


Airbag under the dash cover was quite fiddly to get out.


What it looks like under the dash with the top cover off. Going to be fun getting all that into my Willys Pickup later.
 
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#1,709 ·

Thought I would dress up the brackets I made to hold the washer and radiator overflow bottles. They were perfectly functional, but a bit of a custom look would make them look better as well.


Laid out a design and happy I don't anymore have to use a holesaw to cut large holes, as it always stalled my drill press. Using a hydraulic hole punch instead is faster and gives a cleaner result.


Once the holes were punched I cut out the pieces and folded the flanges. Used the same tool with my dimple dies.


Bracket cover pieces finished.


I spot welded them to the original brackets.


Looks less rudimentary now.


This will help them tie in with the bonnet supports etc that I also dimple die'd.
 
#1,712 ·
I used mag wheel cleaner on the aluminum parts of the Hemi I have in my Javelin. I painted them aluminum and clear coated them with VHT engine clear and it's been holding up well.On my next project which is an 83 FSJ Cherokee that I'm putting a 6.4 Hemi in, I'm going to Cerakote all the aluminum parts. I did a buddies aluminum intake 4 years ago and it still looks great. They make an air dry formula that I've used on several exhaust parts and it holds up very good.
 
#1,713 ·
I last night tried the phosphoric acid I use for rust converting and did a really good job. Smells the same as an acid I used to use that I got many years ago from a detailer who used it on aluminium truck trays. I check the active ingredients on the mag cleaner to see if the same of different.
I heard good things about the Cerakote too on Robby Laton's channel. Not sure if you can get it here?
 
#1,714 ·
#1,715 ·
Honestly this Grand Willy’s project has become a work of art.
this thing is so unique and has so many custom touches it’s impossible for someone to appreciate it all. I think this thing will live on in a museum for hundreds of years.
Im also starting to wonder if it should be painted… a lot of precision work will be buried.
 
#1,716 ·
Honestly this Grand Willy’s project has become a work of art.
this thing is so unique and has so many custom touches it’s impossible for someone to appreciate it all. I think this thing will live on in a museum for hundreds of years.
Im also starting to wonder if it should be painted… a lot of precision work will be buried.
Very nice of you to say that. :) Many have said I should never paint, but people don't even see that it is modified already! Rarely has anyone seen a stock one before, so they have nothing to compare too. The joins are also blended well enough that they don't see all the modifications that way either. They just see an old pickup without paint, nothing more.
It looks like you can get it. Australia Cerakote, Colours & Supplies | Cerakote Australia I usually use the high temp stuff for engine applications. The C series is air cure line. Here's a silver for example. Cerakote - CERAKOTE GLACIER SILVER
A tester goes a long way. I used a tester and did 3 sets of manifolds with it so most likely you won't need more than that unless you're doing a lot.
Good to know. I'm sending off the whole stainless exhaust system to be coated and baked in an oven.
It will be their HP1 coating: Coatings - HPC
 
#1,717 ·
So as not to bore you all with multiple post of the painting process, I condensed what has happened so far in case anyone was still interested.

Just catching up on a few photos taken during the painting process.


Starting on the painting using KBS Rustseal kit. Chassis Coater Kit - KBS Coatings It is a hard urethane coating which can be sprayed, brushed or put on with a roller.


We started on the small things, which numbered over 50, with my wife Lisa doing the painting with a foam brush.


Problem with using the foam brushes was that the paint breaks down the adhesive holding it together so had to switch to a brush made for automotive paints.


Cast and round pieces came up really well.


The front and rear differentials were also painted along with every bracket and suspension piece.


Days were then spent stripping down any paint that was still on the chassis and going over the bare metal parts again with turpentine to remove the old wax and lanolin. Then a strip disc was used to remove any surface rust and then followed by the Aquakleen provided in the kit.


Once everything was done that I could easily do from the topside was time to do the underside.


When I had stripped down the donor Grand Cherokee body, I have made a rotisserie from two engine stands. I made some adaptors so I could easily flip the chassis upside down.


Once everything had been stripped and cleaned, I used the Rustblast phosphoric acid on the whole frame, as had done with everything else already painted.


I found the 50mm/2" foam roller worked really well and can get into tight spaces. Didn't end up using the 100mm/4" rollers at all.


Everything is now painted and also top coated with epoxy from a spray can where direct sunlight can reach.


On the next project I will go to the trouble of setting up a temporary spray booth and spray paint the KBS paint as really impressed with the product. Just would get a better finish and save a lot of time doing it with a gun instead.


Even got a custom clock made from a photo with our truck driving through Garfield by photographer John from Australian Car Events.




 
#1,718 ·

Updating the work being done at the Donburn Customs. Everything is being prepared for a high build epoxy.


They did not find anything at all that needed any panel work at all, which is nice to hear.


Before any painting they are using Australian made products especially for the restoration industry. https://www.restofinish.com.au/ These include degreasers, acid treatment and preservers.


Cleaned treated and ready for high build epoxy.


Some old pitting in the bonnet was cleaned out with garnet blasting to make sure everything was super clean.


Can see what was spot blasted.


Good to see they are being super careful with getting everything rust free.


This high build epoxy coating will be blocked and any filler will be applied over it rather than on bare metal to better seal it.


Doors have also been done.


Ready for blocking to see where a skim of filler might be needed.
 
#1,720 ·

Coming time to decide what colours to paint the old HEMI coil covers and the piece over the radiator that I embossed the 'W' into. I think the hammer tone I did the covers in blend them in too much, so maybe body colour with black centre wire cover? Otherwise could do silver with wire cover satin black like original? There was even a gold version.
Around the lock area and radiator top cover body colour?


The very top of the firewall, last 100mm/4" above the pinch weld, will be the olive gold body colour, below that is a firewall pad. The suspension tower brace, runs from one side to the other with the three holes in it, I don't want it to be a main feature, so will be satin black along with the inner guards and back of the grille etc as can't see them anyway.
 
#1,721 ·
Personally, I'm kinda liking the black-on-gold valve covers. I think the gold and olive will set each other off nicely.

Not sure about the radiator cover... the gold might look nice (as long as you go with gold on the valve covers), but I'm not sure if it would be visible from outside. Otherwise, I'd match body color.
 
#1,723 ·

Once the chassis was completely painted, I drove 2 hours to the best place that did ceramic coatings on exhaust systems and turbos etc. High Performance Coatings. http://hpc.com.au You can see how the stainless system had already discoloured a lot in the 4000 km I have done.


I wanted to not only improve the appearance, but get the reduction in heat in the engine bay and under the floors. It also takes out the tinny sound of headers and improves exhaust velocity giving a little extra power. I had them coat even all the clamps to keep everything looking the same.


The chassis now is fully plumbed for the fuel system and the rear brake lines up to the ABS connections.


Also the whole cooling system is done along with the powering steering and hydraulic engine fan. As much as possible of the AC system and the complete engine and chassis harness's are all in place. Brake callipers were stripped and new seals and boots fitted where needed. They were also coated in heat proof paint to restore them. Everything is ready to go once the cab and front panels arrive.

Video update:
 
#1,724 ·
A little update as dropped by the painters yesterday with my wife.

In primer ready for final blocking before top coat!


All coming along very nicely.


My cab is on its back getting the floor and firewall ready to be painted and Raptor Lining sprayed on.


This is why you have a test spray out done. The one left in the picture we had done originally and in DeBeer's paint and the right was just done by the painter in Mipa branded paint that they want to use on the Truck. Way different! The original looks the same as the original Harley Davidson colour, supposed to be Olive Gold Pearl, where Mipa's version of the same paint code is much more green and has more sparkle. Not what we are after as too pretty for a truck. Also we are after olive, not green.


You can also see how the Mipa one on the left loses colour quickly when not in direct sunlight. Something we want to avoid on the truck.


This is what it is suppose to look like and the DeBeer's version looks spot on.


So now I am going to see what Mipa's version of Harley Davidson Olive Gold Denim is like with a gloss clear over it, but they haven't the formula for it! It is a lighter version of the other Olive Gold and normally doesn't have a clear over it as is a matt version. I have also the option of ordering and having it painted in the DeBeer's paint, (made in the Netherlands and owned by Valspar), but they feel the quality isn't quite as high as Mipa, (made in Germany). I don't know myself.
 
#1,725 ·
What I have done today, after speaking with them, is buy 250ml of the Harley Davidson Olive Gold Denim in DeBeer's and then get them to respray the Mipa test piece we don't like in that. Will have them put a gloss clear over it rather than a matt one that colour calls for.
He said if the painter is happy with the way it sprays, he'd rather do the whole Truck in DeBeers, which ever version we prefer between the two Harley colours, and use their clear as well. He has looked into the quality of the DeBeer's and is now happy that it is on par with Mipa, so long as the test sprays out well.
 
#1,731 ·

Fresh off the gun without any cutting or polishing. Photos show it more green than it is to the eye and is the original choice of Harley Davidson Olive Green Pearl.


Painter is happy with the De Beers paint and said will get even better off the gun now he has a good handle on how it flows out.


Truer to the natural colour. Louvers look great considering I cut them with a wood chisel and formed them by hand with a piece of redgum into a steel form I made!


Even the bits you wont see behind the bed wall look great!


The cab will be left to harden for a few weeks and then cut and polished. Doors and front clip will be next and have already been blocked ready for final primer.
 
#1,734 ·
If you can get access to a car hauler, you might consider taking your chassis to the shop and bolting the cab on it there since they have a tow motor to set it on with. You could also bolt the bed on as well, then bring it back home for final install and alignment. Trying to bring it home like you took it there doesn't look as "paint safe"! :LOL:
 
#1,735 ·
They don't even have the bed panels yet as I have been storing them until they are ready to work on them. It is a very busy shop and they didn't want to risk any damage while waiting for there time to be worked on. The cab needs the moulded under floor heat/sound shield added before it goes into the chassis. I will hire a flat deck car trailer to pick it up as will be easier/safer to load than my little trailer I brought it there with. Just leave it on the trolley I made for it and push it on to the centre. It still has the lifting frame inside to attach my engine crane too when I get home. Will wait until my wife has a RDO to pick it up as not going to try an unload it on my own.
 
#1,737 ·
Looks awesome. Love the colour!
personally I would do bronze wheels or some other earth tone to set off that olive.
I love it.
Bronze wheels would look good for sure and been thinking the same thing since the colour was chosen. Maybe Cerakote them. See how it looks as the alloy does match all the chrome work too.
So many bronzes to chose from! https://www.cerakote.com/shop/cerakote-coating
 
#1,738 ·
Link to a video that the spray painters took after shooting the Harley Davidson Olive Green Pearl.
Can see how much life it has without having too much flip to it. Goes to a bronze/gold from the olive.
 
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