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  #649  
Old 10-06-2013, 09:22 AM
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  #650  
Old 10-10-2013, 04:54 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project



I am a little worried that filling in the cowl vent hole will make it too plain looking on top of the cowl if I just weld in some steel. Even more so since it will be wider as well. So I have had a thought to use the centre raised piece from a Willys CJ tailgate with the WILLYS stamped into it. So if anyone knows of an old tailgate where the middle 14-15" could be cut from, that would be great. I know I can buy the whole thing new, but don't want to spend that much. Also know you can get just the name, but want the pressing behind it as well. Cheers
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  #651  
Old 10-12-2013, 06:52 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project


Time to setup the workshop for the body building phase. So the chassis was rolled out of the workshop and on to the side street and towed up around the corner to the front of the house.


Neighbours came around quickly to give me a hand to get it into the garage. Nice to have help like that.




New resting place for the next few years while I start building the body.


Hard to believe that a cab will be made from these parts.


Donor floor and firewall will be tack welded to the heavy trestles I made to keep it level and square.


Decided to try something different to remove what was left of the old floor from the bottom of the rear wall. Rather than drilling out all the spot welds, going to carefully grind them away from the other side. Noticed how the spot welds are dented in from shrinking from the welding heat. Don't want to be left with that if I can.


The spot welds were punched down from the inside to make them flat on the outside before cutting them away.


Used a 1 mm cut off disc in the grinder to cut around the spot weld.


Material cut away from around the spot weld.


Then ground away. Doing it this way creates far less heat them just attacking it with a grinding disc for the whole thing.


All of them done. Still takes some time but you would have had to grind down if drilled out and then welded up too. This way much less heat and distortion and no risk of blowing though.


The spot weld dents are much less after punching them first. The lip was also dressed flat that was on the bottom of the wall as will be cut to suit the new floor profile.
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  #652  
Old 10-12-2013, 08:51 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Very nice. Can't wait for body updates.
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  #653  
Old 10-14-2013, 02:09 PM
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Re: Grand Willys project

wow rolling chasis and cab/firewall starting to take shape? get your popcorn ready
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  #654  
Old 10-14-2013, 02:30 PM
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Re: Grand Willys project

JG's Own Overhaulin Episode
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  #655  
Old 10-15-2013, 03:43 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Ha ha, glad you are all liking it still.
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  #656  
Old 10-24-2013, 08:05 PM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Where's my update? I'm getting the shakes from withdrawl!
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  #657  
Old 10-25-2013, 03:42 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonofasailor3 View Post
Where's my update? I'm getting the shakes from withdrawl!
Ha ha, glad it was missed.

Should get one this weekend but was away last weekend celebrating 20 years of blissful marriage. Thought that had more priority!
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  #658  
Old 10-25-2013, 05:24 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Congrats on the 20 years man!
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  #659  
Old 10-25-2013, 06:37 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Congratulations on the 20 years . Good choice going with Wife over Willys. It'll definately help with the start of the next 20!
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  #660  
Old 10-26-2013, 07:17 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Happy wife, happy life.


Time to trim the rear lower wall section to match the new floor profile from the donor. I just simply used the form I had cut out to bend the flange over earlier in the floor. I had hammered flat the flange this wall had and it gave me just enough material that I needed.


One thing that didn't quite workout as well was the length of the flat section below the stock window. Had I been able to use the later wall I would have been ok, but the earlier wall with the smaller window needed to be altered to match the extra width it will have.


So to straighten the rear wall to suit the wider rear window I will make, I had to remove the wall brace. I have found that just driving in a cold chisel a little bit to create a bit of pressure prior to drilling out the top spot weld works well. As you drill through it pops a bit as soon as you are through the first layer of metal stopping you going though the next. I use a pilot point drill bit like shown earlier in my build.


The brace came off without drilling into the wall, apart from the pilot holes. Gives me a good opportunity to remove the rust under the brace as well.


The outside it is easy to strip off the paint and rust, but the inside is another story. So will throw it into my white vinegar and citric acid solution for a while to clean it up.


The solution did its trick and looks much better now.


Using the press plus hammer and dolly, I gently straightened out the wall brace. With the top of the wall I just lent on it while it was supported at each end only, and used a slapping file to flatten it out.


To strip the paint I have been using a paint stripping disc. 3M makes the most popular one but this 7" version was just bought at my local discount hardware store. I try to do only one layer of paint at a time to make sure I don't over heat area one area.


Using this is better than a grinder, or sanding disc, as to easy too take off metal as well and leave gouges with those. Good way to find out the history of your cab as well. After the grey I found red, yellow, grey and then a red oxide primer!


Got a bit of a surprise when this nasty dent showed up under a layer of bog. The holes suggest they tried to use a dent puller but failed due to the B pillar being just behind it.


Can see the extent of the damage.


This pillar stops you getting at it as it is under it. The butterfly shaped rust spot is the start of it. I can cut out the damage section and replace it with a piece from the other cab. Will need to address the welding distortion though afterwards. To repair the inside of the pillar I need to take off this outer piece of the pillar, but have to anyway to be able to fully weld the top section back on later. The other way would be to try and remove the whole pillar and then hammer out the skin. Not sure if the damage is to bad or not to get it straight again?


The outside of the wall came up pretty well and without rust.


The inside of the wall below the old floor level had surface rust which couldn't be removed with the strip it disc. Using some thing like a grinder would have thinned the metal too much and created too much heat. I tried using some rust converter but was not happy with the results. Rather it be gone altogether.
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