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  #733  
Old 06-02-2014, 05:52 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project


Built my own bullseye pick. Thought they were a lot of money but cheap to make yourself.


Total cost was only $9 for a couple of meters of solid 12mm-1/2" rod. Every thing else I had. I made both a pointed and blunt tips for it that I made from 16mm-5/8" solid rod that I drilled and threaded.


Gives you very accurate strikes and used often where swinging a hammer from underneath is awkward.


Painted up ready for use.




Works in a off dolly method so wont stretch the metal like directly on dolly. Great for lifting small dents etc in the finishing stage when going for a smooth metal finish.
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  #734  
Old 06-02-2014, 11:15 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

You are a serious craftsman! Amazing work
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  #735  
Old 06-05-2014, 05:27 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Thanks Matt.

Made this dolly from an old rusty block of steel that didn't have a single straight or smooth face. I made the curve to match part of the Willys body that I didn't have a matching dolly for.


Well I made the mistake of buying a cheap English Wheel off eBay. It was so badly put together that I could not even thread the adjuster in that screws up from the bottom due to the bush being welded on such a angle as shown!


Even the lower anvil mount was welded in crooked as should be perfectly parallel with the upper wheel to function correctly. All materials were also very thin walled. I even had to beat on the upper wheel bracket just to fit it in as well.


The lower anvil wheels were also tiny and some useless due to excessive radius. Lodged a dispute with Paypal and up for the cost for freight for returning it. Just not worth even spending the time fixing it. Will have to pony up for a decent one by the looks of it, just to get one that functions.
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  #736  
Old 06-07-2014, 07:06 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project


English Wheel problem solved. Being a much bigger one it will also allow me to form the roof insert later on as well as smooth out the bonnet, rear wall and the many welded seams I will have after they get welded as well. Was on a clearance sale too and saved $255 on the same one sold else where as I didn't have to pay freight.
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  #737  
Old 06-28-2014, 06:17 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project


Haven't shown much from doing this side of the cowl as not much different to the other side. Some of the things I had to do differently was shorten this side by 5mm-3/16" to get it the same as the other side in overall height. I remembered the difference showing up when I checked it with a laser before cutting it apart. Measurement showed it was at the cowl seam so cut the extra out there before welding it up. You will also notice that the fold along the door edge has been straightened back out too. The cowl was narrower here by 2mm-5/64", affecting the door gap.


The very last part of the fold curved for the start of the A pillar angle. So it could not be folded along a straight edge. I just used vice grips to slowly bend it over with the slight curve at the top.


Can just make out the slight curve now. If I had not put it in, the A pillar would not have lined up correctly and would have increased the door gap too. It was only an extra 2mm-5/64" different, but as the rest of the door gap is 4mm-5/32, it would have been 50% more.


One thing that is quicker was that the angle of the door sill to cowl had already been all worked out on the other side. So I used that to get it the same for this side.


So to wrap up. The door sill profile has been extended right across the bottom of the cowl. The Willys pressing added and the bead running along the forward edge continues now to the bottom. Cowl seam has been welded up and cut away flush from the back. Rust repairs, including replacing nearly the whole bottom 12" as well as part of the door sill done. Holes filled and dents removed. The door sills have also been adjusted to follow the curvature of the doors exactly. The whole bottom half of the cab, back wall included, does not have a single original spot weld left!


New TIG welder! Been hanging out for a year to get it and got it for a great price in the end of financial year sales. Stayed with the Uni-Mig brand as had double the warranty with local backup and service. My Mig under it is still going strong and would be around 7 years old now with lots of hard use. It is an inverter AC/DC 200 amp machine with analogue controls, as prefer them to digital. More reliable and can see at a glance what you settings are without going through menus.


Going to make a wider rack at the back to hold two bottles so I can make this my welding station. Less floor space this way and either process always ready. Now just got to learn how to use the tig! Been doing much reading and already know what each of the knobs do and watched many a youtube video. Will see how it goes. Hopefully get some advice along the way to sort out any problems. Love learning new skills and that is why I took on this build.


Also made a couple of mounts for stake dolly I made from a ripping tooth on my weld table. Can be mounted 90* to this as well.
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  #738  
Old 07-05-2014, 07:38 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project


The tig has been mounted now on supports above the mig. It is made that I can still lift off the side cover to change wire rolls without removing the tig.


I folded up a draw for under the tig from an old barbeque lid that someone had thrown away. Even used the handle off it.


The back twin bottle support has been made into a tray for more storage. Another tray was folded up on a raised platform to clear the wheels at the bottom. All also came from the same barbeque lid! Old choker chain holds the bottles in place.


Made a hook to hold the welding helmet. Also notice extra old mig reel cut in half and added to store the mig cables etc on one side, and the tig ones on the other.


For filler wire while tig welding the panel steel, I am using 0.9 mm mig wire. Only problem is it is always curled. Here is a trick I learnt to straighten it. Clamp one end in a vice, put a drill tightly at the other end. Keep tension by pulling back on the drill and give the trigger a squeeze for a second. Keep the wire straight while undoing the chuck and you will have straight wire! You can emery paper the copper coating off before undoing the chuck if you like. I used it with the copper on too and seems to work as well.


So fired up the tig for the first time and started practising with the filler wire as well. Been fun learning a new welding process for the first time in 30 years! These are all my attempts so far and the bottom most weld was my first attempt at a join between the two pieces. This is all on scrap cut from the body of the Willys, as thought it was the best way to learn.
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  #739  
Old 07-09-2014, 04:20 PM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Why can't you live around the corner from me. I would learn so much. Even at my age. Lol


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  #740  
Old 07-12-2014, 07:54 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project


Something I would like to alter is the difference in the firewall angle between the Willys and the donor Grand. The Willys is vertical but the Grand is sloping 10* forwards. I only want to change the end and leave the area where the brake booster etc mounts, unchanged as much as possible.


So to get it so it would match to the Willys cowl, I made it vertical by moving the lower kick panel bend further forward extending the flatter part of the floor by doing so. Having the floor flatter longer also made it better match the Willys in that area too. If you look at the previous photo you can see the kick panel bend was at the edge of the trestle and now is just past the oval hole.


To move the kick board bend forward I used a curved flipper both free hand and also by hitting down on it with a soft faced mallet. I angled the bend leaving the end point at the tunnel in the same place.


Between the ribs I used a dolly that matched the same curve and hit on it the same way.


That curved hammer that I changed from a round flat face to a curved square face came in very handy to dress out any marks. Used it together with a dolly.
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  #741  
Old 07-19-2014, 08:33 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project


After less then a couple of hours practise on the tig a couple of weeks ago as shown earlier, thought I would already have a go on the Willys panels. I hadn't done any in the mean time as thought I would wait until a pedal controller arrived. So this is my first weld ever with the tig with the pedal while also doing just fusion welding too. The weld above was done without stopping.


This is showing the backside of the second weld after switching to a bigger electrode as the first one didn't give me complete penetration all the way along. 1mm/0.040, electrode was not big enough for the thicker metal used in the cowl and the old Willys tailgate pressing being welded together here.


I am just a passing on what worked for me after lots of reading and watching, so by no means an expert but sharing in case it helps someone. This also applies mainly to a inverter tig which are more sensitive to electrode size. So this is the setup that worked the best for the cowl and old tailgate pressing which is 1.2mm/18Ga, and 1.6mm/16Ga. A 1.6 mm/0.065 inch, 2% lanthanated tungsten electrode was used. Best if you use one as close as possible to the thickness of the metal being welded for the easiest time and the best heat control. I am using lanthanated as can be used for steel and aluminium etc and you don't have the problems of breathing in the radioactive dust with sharpening it like thoriated ones. Using a no.4 cup with the gas flow around 6 L/min-20cfm.


All welded in using fusion welding mainly. A couple of the corners had a slight gap so used mig wire as a filler rod when welding those. Torch angle was at 105*, or 15* off vertical, leaning away from direction of travel. The filler wire was added at a 15* angle off horizontal just in front of the puddle. It is recommended that the filler rod be 90* to the torch angle, which this adds up to.


The back side shows good fusion and the HAZ is pretty even and narrow. Not sure on the welding current as used a foot peddle. Before getting it I used the principle of 30-35 amps per 1mm/0.40 of metal thickness that my tig welders manual recommended.


Only draw back with using no filler wire and doing fusion only, is that you can still see where the weld was after planishing and sanding smooth. For panels this is generally regarded as being quite acceptable and structurally sound.


I did however go back over it with filler wire to see how it would come out. Used the E-wheel to correct the shape a bit more too.

Hope to have time to add other panel welding tomorrow.
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  #742  
Old 07-19-2014, 06:28 PM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Damn! Always amazing me
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  #743  
Old 07-20-2014, 05:30 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Got inspired by the latest update. Feel more confident that this thing can actually come together!

Before joining the panel sections together I spent some time filing the joints until there were no gaps as much as possible. This allows much better and easier fusion welding. I used a faced piece of angle iron from my folder clamped to the bench to check the edge for straightness, as well as keeping it perfectly square.


Decided to give the thinner 0.9mm/20Ga panels of the rear wall a try next. Swapped the lanthanated tungsten over to a 1mm/0.040. Find it easier to weld the thinner panels with this size as it is close to the panel thickness.


Just did fusion welding again but found it gave a better result than with the thicker metal. Only a few spots that needed a bit of filler rod added. Planished the weld and HAZ area only to get it nice and flat again. It is so much softer than mig welds that I had to use a shrinking disc in a few places as went too far!


Came across a problem on both sides that the 58 ends were not as deeply pressed as the original 48 centre part of the wall. So what I did was tack together the wider raised sections first perfectly flush and then stretched down the narrow sections to fit.


Came up really well and all lined up too.


Started welding up the other end to the centre part of the wall.


Was tacked flat but the heat shrinkage pulled it down. Also showing what the backside of the weld looks like as welded it from the other side.


Planishing the weld area only brought it back flat.


The ribs were a lot shallower on the newer 58 ends compared to the 48 as well. Used a dolly with a similar shape to them to stretch them to the same size.


I placed a beater bag underneath and then hammered down on the dolly with a soft faced hammer. Some was done with the dolly underneath and using a small squared faced hammer from the top.


So the first big section of 48 and 58 panels are together.


Trial fitted quite well to the donor floor as well.
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  #744  
Old 07-21-2014, 12:03 PM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Thanks for the update. I am constantly amazed at your skills and attention to detail.
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