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  #757  
Old 09-24-2014, 06:50 PM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Welcome back. We are all on the edge of our seats awaiting the next installment of the Grand Willys Project.

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  #758  
Old 09-25-2014, 03:54 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

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Originally Posted by sonofasailor3 View Post
Welcome back. We are all on the edge of our seats awaiting the next installment of the Grand Willys Project.
Good to hear.
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  #759  
Old 10-12-2014, 03:45 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Hey there. If you get the time have a look at these 2 guys in the UK.

http://youtu.be/7hCPODjJO7s

There fab work is incredible as well.
They are also hilarious.


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  #760  
Old 10-13-2014, 03:00 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

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Originally Posted by UKWK View Post
Hey there. If you get the time have a look at these 2 guys in the UK.

Project Binky - Episode 1 - Austin Mini GT-Four - Turbo Charged 4WD Mini - YouTube

There fab work is incredible as well.
They are also hilarious.


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Been following that one for a while and wish they would put up a new episode.
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  #761  
Old 10-18-2014, 04:42 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Couldn't wait to get back into this project after being away.


Thought I would show some of the hidden time that goes into things you don't notice once finished. On the right is the bottom of the B pillar which supports the back wall and the rear of the door opening. I'm going to replace the bottom section of it using part of the frame rail from the donor Grand Cherokee.


Used a T dolly to hammer out one of the folds as only needed a slight one there.


I have strengthened the lower pillar so it can be used for a couple of things as it is the strongest area at the rear of the cab. The gusseted part will become the rear corner body mount. The thick plate is at floor level and the mount will be in the pocket under it.


The difference in the width was blended in. The extra plates with the thread insert were cut from the donor B pillar and are the lower seat belt mounts.


I am recessing the seat belt inertia reals into the B pillar just like it was in the donor Jeep. Makes for a more tidy installation and gives more room next to the front seats.


As it is very close between the B pillar and the corner of the wall, I have added a bit of the floor now with a flange that will get coated in seam sealer to stop any water coming up from underneath. No way to get to it later once installed.


This give you an idea of how tight it is around the lower pillar. The frame rail will pass in the gap there right now and an outrigger will go in under the plate inside the B pillar with a rubber mount to give isolation from road vibration.


I had a bend in the left pillar resulting from the impact it had. Was bigger than it looks here at 5 mm-3/16", but it really shows up as it is at the edge of the door opening where the sheet metal attached. I had already got that perfectly straight and now showed up the pillar as being still bent.


I tried heating the opposite side with a propane torch and then quenching it, but it didn't move. So I ran a weld bead down the opposite side and let is cool and it pulled over nicely. Only one spot went too far so ran a short bead on that side to bring it back. Primitive but effective.


Have coated the back of the pillars with weld through zinc coating, as can never get to this side of it again once installed.
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  #762  
Old 10-18-2014, 06:09 AM
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Glad to see you back at it. Amazing work as always.
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  #763  
Old 10-18-2014, 05:24 PM
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Re: Grand Willys project

What he said.
Great to see the jigsaw coming together.


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  #764  
Old 10-19-2014, 03:04 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Thanks for the continued interest after all this time. Must be the slowest build on here!
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  #765  
Old 10-19-2014, 07:50 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Here
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  #766  
Old 10-25-2014, 04:10 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project


Time to make the first big connection between a 1948 panel and the 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee floor/firewall. The bottom edge was shaped to follow exactly the form of the rear of the floor. Then a flange punch was used to make 5mm-3/16 holes ready for plug welding it to the upturned flange of the floor.


All areas that were going to be covered with pillars and braces etc were painted in zinc.


Did a weld test of different amps to workout the best setting. Higher amps than normal were used on the right side and went with that as gave the flattest weld and best penetration. Just had to do it quicker.


All welded in to the bottom flange and coated in zinc.


The plug welds were ground flush and sanded smooth along the bottom of the wall.


Doubled checked to make sure the sill to rear door edge was still at 90* after welding and before the pillars are added.

]
B pillars were clamped in place. Plug welded through the old spot weld holes left after drilling them out. I also used this copper bar behind the pilot hole left in the pillar itself so I could use a higher amp setting and not blow through.


Once the B pillars were in and checked for square again, the cross brace was added in. The factory only spot welded along the top flange and not the lower one. To keep distortion under control I assume. I decided to add a bead of adhesive/seam sealer under the bottom flange.


Lowered the cross brace over the sealer and clamped it tight and left it to cure over night.


Found it a little bit easier to weld without the weld through primer coating at the bottom of the hole. To clean only the area for welding, I just used an old drill bit that was ground flat by running it in the drill and then against a running bench grinder. Must have the same size drill as the plug weld hole to work.
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  #767  
Old 11-01-2014, 05:46 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Nothing much to show this time but thought I would share what I have been up to all the same.


OK, found a problem after welding in the brace. I had pressed in some curve through the middle of the brace along the top flange as thought it would bend with the plug welds. Thing was it didn't move much, if at all! Tried hammering it forward while supporting the outer corners, but couldn't move it far enough. It needs to be straight as the rear window just above it has flat glass in it. So did the old run a mig weld bead trick to get some heat concentrated on the convex side of the brace to make it shrink there and flatten it out. Can see how much it has moved by the rippling in the panel.


There were a couple of spots that didn't go quite far enough. So rather than adding more mig weld on top of what was there, I heated the existing weld with my tig and that worked. Maybe next time I might try using the tig straight off as the heat source as there would be less grinding. I think you would still have to add a bit of filler so you don't leave a trough or burn through. So ground the weld out and then got the panel straight again. Used the shrinking disc mainly and a bit of hammer off dolly work. Not on dolly as that would only stretch it more.


Now to get the rest of the panel straight too. Can see here the dip. I would mark the back of the dip, which is a bulge on the other side of the panel, with some chalk and then run the shrinking disc over it, then use compressed air to cool it straight away.


As you can see the dip is gone now. I do find it works better for me to heat the convex side as it will pull away when the shrinking happens. If you go a bit too far, can then heat on the other side to bring it back again.


I only heat until straw colour, or until you feel it start to move if earlier. Then quickly hit it with the compressed air while the disc is slowing down and until stopped. That is usually the point where you can touch it with a bare hand. Some areas will move faster than others, so it is a bit of trial and error. Spent quite a bit of time going over the panel with a straight edge that covered the whole length to get it as best possible.
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  #768  
Old 11-01-2014, 07:44 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project

I can't remember if you are going for a complete stock classic look or classic/modern. Like slammed and chopped.

???
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