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  #985  
Old 03-13-2017, 10:51 PM
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Re: Grand Willys project


Time to finish off the dash. Thought might as well cut the top from the two stock ones to start with.


Put an extra fold at along the bottom edge to give some more strength.


Need to adjust the fold some from stock to get it to sit a little higher to clear the centre ducts.


This stake dolly I made from an old wood splitter works really well for this.


Made the centre piece up from the other dash and welded it all in. The stock vent holes were lengthened by 60% and the vents trail fitted. The donor dash will sit down on top of this upper dash piece with the original metal window garnish holding it down in place. This garnish also has a louver pressed in to go over the vent slots which I will have to lengthen to match the new longer ones.


Did a lot of hunting around to fit a suitable wiper system that would fit in the space I had available. There were so many bad reports on the Chinese universal ones that I stayed away from them. This is a Lucas 14W 2 speed setup as used in many English cars like Jaguar, Mini, Triumphs etc. The replacement motor kits are all the same for these. I got this with mounting kit and the internal rack cable from Minimine. Simon has a eBay store but can deal directly too if you email minimine@btconnect.com as well be a bit cheaper. Everything above including a wiring loom pigtail was 80 pounds. You will also need flange nut that holds the tube rack to the rack feral, two wheelboxes, arms and blades which I bought from him as well.


I fitted the glovebox to see if there was enough room to get the wiper motor in next to it.


Looks like it may just fit but have to make sure it doesn't touch anything around it as will transfer the noise otherwise when it is running.

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  #986  
Old 03-13-2017, 10:52 PM
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Re: Grand Willys project


Made a bracket to weld in between the tube cowl brace and the steel support for the front of the dash.


Worked out the best position for the pivot point just by drawing halve the visible glass area on some cardboard and used some stiff wire as a model for the wiper arm and blade. Basically made sure it would just clear the top of the glass when vertical and be near the center of the windscreen when at the bottom of the sweep.


Found these rubber wiper wheelbox bezels that include the washer sprayers as well all in one unit. Saves having them on the cowl or bonnet. They fit Triumph TR4, TR5 and TR6.


The washer hose connects to the brass tube and it sprays out of the chrome piece on the side. The wheelboxes are Mini, #37H7200, as needed short one to go behind my vents. The shaft without the gear housing, but including the splined end, are 48mm-1.7/8" long. TR7 ones were 66mm-2.5/8" long. The more the angle of the cowl where the wheelbox sits is different to the windscreen, the longer the shaft needs to be to take up the difference.


I had to alter the angle of the bezel until it matches the angle of the windscreen. Otherwise you can get stuttering during the sweep of the blades.


The washer jets are nicely hidden under the arm if you choose to put them on that side. They come in left and right. I also have a pet hate for blades that don't sit flat along the bottom of the screen, so will address that.


Clamped the arm into the vice with some aluminium to protect them, then with one hit with a soft faced hammer altered the angle.


Tried it and got it first go! These arms are good quality TEX brand which are English made and stainless steel. These are OEM for the Classic Mini from 1971 on. A 10" blade with a 11" long arm. The white part is the plastic protection film for the stainless steel. I choose what is called folding arm movement where the wipers sweep outwards to the sides. This leaves the largest unsweep area behind the rear vision mirror where you don't look through the glass anyway. Stock was the clapping hands movement where there sweep towards the centre.
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  #987  
Old 03-13-2017, 10:53 PM
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Re: Grand Willys project


Just thought I would show how this system works. The rack consists of a cable with a spring wrapped around it. The spring engages the teeth on the wheelbox, or wiper pivot. The motor as a crank that pulls the rack back and forth giving you the movement.


These wheelboxes not only come in different overall lengths, but also in the number of teeth they have. This classic Mini one has 32 teeth but the older Minis had only 24 teeth which would give more sweep of the wiper arm. Some even have 40 teeth which would decrease the sweep. Some Jags even have a different number of teeth one one side to the other to vary the sweep left compared to right side. The sweep can also be changed with different stroke lengths by where the pivot on the wiper drive gear. Can buy different ones from 90 to 150 degrees in 5 degree steps mostly. Can also modify it yourself to whatever you need.


The rack runs inside tubing and made mine from scratch. What is used is 3/8" bungy tubing which is usually a mix of steel and aluminium like used for brake and fuel lines often. I have a steel/copper mix which what I could get locally that will work just as well. Straight steel wears the rack too quickly and straight copper the rack wears the tubing too fast. The bend radius should never be less than 3" for the rack to work smoothly. A good idea to leave the rack inside the tubing while bending it to help stop kinking as you cannot have that.


I tried to make the bend as shallow as possible to reduce wear and noise.


I use this Eastwoods tubing flarer. I works so quick and well that I wish I had one when I used to work as a brake mechanic long time ago. The first step makes the tubing flush at the end of the die.


Rotate the head and Step 2 makes the ball at the end of the tubing just by pulling the handle around once.


Last step inverts the flare so you end up with a double wall thickness at the end of the tubing. Some people just do a single flare when building their wiper racks.


And there is your perfect flare. I make sure the tubing in square to begin with and any burrs removed. Lube it with brake fluid if for a car, but just used some lanolin for this.


A bit of time is taken to get the tubing to sit in the wheelbox housing flat so it doesn't pull the wheelbox out of alignment left to right.


Nice that this side the rack comes into the top of the wheelbox rather than the bottom like the otherside. This is so the movement goes in the opposite direction for the folding arms or clapped hands style.


I bent the tubing to go behind the front vent outlets on the air-conditioning unit.
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  #988  
Old 03-15-2017, 12:17 PM
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Re: Grand Willys project

All I can say is I'm over joyed to see a bit of a mini going into this epic build. 👍
But then I'm biased.
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  #989  
Old 03-15-2017, 12:37 PM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Posting to gain PM privileges.
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  #990  
Old 03-15-2017, 11:29 PM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Quote:
Originally Posted by UKWK View Post
All I can say is I'm over joyed to see a bit of a mini going into this epic build. 👍
But then I'm biased.
Attachment 112618


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Ha ha, first time I have seen one in it's 'natural' habitat!
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  #991  
Old 03-19-2017, 03:10 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project


Here is the frame work the motor sits in behind the dash.


Found the picture of my 'CAD' layout of the possible wiper pivot points and arm lengths verses blade length testing. Drew up one side of the split screen glass area, not including the rubber gasket, to see the influences of each different setup. Can work out degrees of sweep this way too. Then see what best fits the situation and what is available.


This is the donor Jeep ducting that goes from the centre of the A/C unit to the side of the dash by the door. The ducting does not fit under my sloping cowl however so can't use it as is.


Spent an afternoon at the local pick-a-part yard to find suitable tubing and fittings etc for the vents system. Not much available now a days as most cars have it in moulded in under the dash. Most of this was from older Ranger Rovers and Mercedes cars from the 70-80's


I cut the end off the Jeep ducting that holds the grille part in in place. The shape was going to be hard to join round ducting too.


So using a heat gun over one of my T stakes, I reshaped it. Once it got soft I pushed the folds flatter with some flat steel.


Used one of the elbows from a Mercedes and cut most of the square end off so it would fit inside.


It was a bit bigger in diameter, so cut a wedge out to reduce its circumference.


Put a hose clamp around it once it was in the right position.


Then using a soldering iron welded the seam back up. Been a while since I had welded some plastic as used to do a bit now and again back in the 80's before Youtube was around to show you how!


Welded all the way around and even inside to make a good strong connection. I used a 80 watt soldering iron as was thick, but normally only use a 40 watt one. Don't want it too hot as leaves it brittle when it starts smoking a lot. Always have a fan going as the fumes are toxic.


This gives you an idea of where it sits when screwed in the end of the dash.


Got both sides done now and will use the original ducting from the Mercedes as well which was a bit over 66mm-2.5".


It will hook around in front of the defrost vent and go to the front most outlets at the top of the A/C unit.
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  #992  
Old 03-20-2017, 04:23 PM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Effing awesome skills!
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  #993  
Old 03-25-2017, 05:32 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project


Before I removed the A/C unit from the cab, I made a template to show me how much room I had to the cowl above and to the firewall behind to run the defrost ducting.


There was just no room to run it out the top so I fitted these PVC elbows to the underside of the defrost chamber. I glued a collar tightly above and below where it enters in to hold them in place.


I also added smaller fittings to run to the defrost outlets for the side windows each side. They are already moulded into the ends of the dash so thought why not!


The fittings were actually the ends of the flexible hose off of a vacuum cleaner. The hose will just thread straight onto the fittings. As they were made from plastic, I welded the fittings to the unit.


Quick refit to check that it cleared everything and works out well.


I cut the sides out of the original donor ducting to weld shut the top outlets. No worries about corrosion with only plastic used.


Before the roof goes on, I thought I better layout all the cab wiring to see what needs to run up the A pillars while access is easier. There is a lot there just for the cab! No chassis or engine wiring in this lot.


The aerial wiring had an amplifier attached to the end of it and was fitted up inside the donor roof. Connected to one of the cargo side windows that had the aerial imbedded into the glass.


Ran the aerial wire up the A pillar and will decide later what sort of aerial I will connect it too. Easy enough to pull out later if I what to run it some place else.


This big loom is just for the mirror believe it or not! Who would have though you need 12 wires for that, but it has a light sensor as part of it and think the rain sensor connects to it as well.
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  #994  
Old 04-01-2017, 05:17 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project


Time to get back into the metal work and finish the last major piece of the whole cab build. If you look closely you can see it does not follow the gutter that it needs too after these panels were pancaked. Along the front edge it bulges out and it doesn't go into the corner either. The side needs some work also.


To get rid of the bulge in the front I lightly ran in through the shrinker. To pull the panel into the corner it needed to be stretched. There is a bit of play back and forth so that the overall angle still follows the gutter.


After all four panels followed the gutter line exactly, which I had already spent many hours getting it the same width all the way around and the lip the same height, I can start on the shape of the panels. The rear corner on the right side sits too low.


The rear panel on the left side though sits too high. As soon as the roof panel was cut into the fours pieces originally, the rear sprung into the differences left to right. There were a lot of dents in the roof I had to taken out before cutting them apart and obviously some tension must have been left in them.


From the rear you can really see the difference left to right. Remember also that from stock after rolling a new flange around the bottom, I had taken 2" of height out of the middle and 1.5" from the corners.


The front panels are sitting nicely and is 1" lower than stock right across. Looks even lower with the cab now being 9" wider than stock.


I cutout the centre of each panel as planned to fit the new centre roof infill, leaving a bit under an inch extra for trimming later. This will make it easier to correct the rear panel too.


So one needs to come down overall and the other to come up so it flows into the front panels as I laid out nearly a year and a half ago now! Good to see no rust had formed in the mean time sitting in bare metal with just a coat of lanolin oil over them.


To bring the low one up I shrank along the inside edge and then had to stretch the outside corner a bit to get the overall angle back again. The high one I stretched along the inside edge and shrank the outside corner to correct the angle.


Sitting much better now.
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  #995  
Old 04-08-2017, 07:50 AM
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Re: Grand Willys project


Just done tig welding the rear section of the roof together.


I think it looks acceptable after the pancaking. Remembering that a bit more crown still to come from the roof infill panel.


Hard to believe that over stock, the centre of the roof to the floor is now 100mm/4" lower than stock! 2" sectioned out below the window and 2" above the gutter.


I wheeled more shape into it as lost a lot of the early vertical part of the roof line when the bottom section was cut off. So I increased the radius so it was steeper near the gutter like stock again.


I am trying out different techniques for putting a crease line in some scrap to go on the filler panel at the front of the roof above where the V meets in the middle.


Just using a rounded cold chisel.


Doesn't look to bad for 2 minutes of work.


Next I thought I would try using my bead roller. It is just a hardened washer from a Range Rover trailing arm from memory, over one of my skateboard wheels from my youth.


Just ran along the line and then slowly increased the pressure while doing a shorter run each time.


The one closest to the camera is the bead rolled one.


Liked it so thought I would do it on the filler panel. Made it bolder to match the crease line that runs up the centre of the bonnet.


I made it peak at the top front and then taper off to nothing towards the back and a bit more left at the other end so it follows the V of the gutter. Hope it will look alright but can always smooth it out if I don't like it.
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  #996  
Old 04-10-2017, 06:50 PM
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Re: Grand Willys project

Thanks chap. Awesome work as always.
It must be getting exciting now that it is at this stage.
Keep up the great work.
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