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Jay's 05 WK Build Thread

113K views 396 replies 62 participants last post by  Wingnutj 
#1 ·
Figured I'd start a proper build thread so I'd have somewhere to post up my progress rather than dropping random pics all over the place. After wearing out my WJ I decided to stick with another Grand and get a WK. Here is the WJ prior to selling with 180k miles on the clock:

After selling the WJ I looked long and hard across the entire US for the best deal on the exact WK I wanted. I had a few color choices but a few other specs were must have's-
-tow
-5.7l Hemi
-Heated Seats
-Sunroof
-QDII
-<50k miles
After a few months of patiently waiting and negotiation attempts I found the right WK at a steal of a price. So I made a two hour trip and negotiated that steal price further down and drove it home. I sold my Yakima basket with the WJ, so I picked up a Rola and installed it along with my Yakima load bars and bike trays:

I found that along with my Yakima parts, some of the black trim was beginning to fade, so I picked up some U-Pol Raptor liner and began removing and spraying parts. It's been months since spraying and each piece looks brand new. I highly recommend this stuff!


After saving for a couple more months and reading what seems like almost every lift related thread on the forums I decided on a 4" Superlift. My WJ had 2" pucks and crappy shocks and rode like a shopping cart. This time around I wanted maximum lift with minimal geometry change and ride impact. I'm picky about chrome but decided I liked the mix of chrome and silver on the Jeep, with the exception of the stock chrome wheels. I wanted a bit of a dish, but a very simple wheel. I also wanted a tough wheel that would take some abuse. The winning choice for me was the AEV Savegre. AEV makes great products and I knew I couldn't go wrong with them.

After much debate I decided to have someone do the Superlift install as I just didn't have the necessary tools to do it right. I wouldn't take it just anywhere, but I got connected with a great local shop[/URL] that does awesome work. Here is the post-lift result:



The next product I recommend is Plasti-Dip, at least as a temporary solution that is completely reversible. I'd read about it on the forums and I was toying with the notion of painting my grille black. So a trip to Home Depot and 5 bucks later, I sprayed the grille with Plasti-Dip:

I'm glad I only used Plasti-Dip instead of actually sanding, priming, and painting, becuase after two weeks of it I decided it wasn't for me. I peeled it off in about 30 seconds and my chrome grille was good as new. I've got plenty of upcoming projects, starting with a lighting overhaul. I chose Rigid Industries for the majority of my aftermarket lighting. They are pricey, but if you compare their light output vs current draw, then watch their ballistics testing videos on YouTube, you will see they make an incredibly great product. I am currently testing different fitment locations to achieve the max light output. Once that is complete I will setup a shoot that shows the different lights and their outbut brightness, all at same ISO/speed/arpeture. Here is a quick look at light output of just the Rigid LED, no headlights:
 
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#192 ·
Thanks bud! Loving them 315's. Although I think the 1.5" pucks may be a bit much and might cut them down some.
 
#195 ·
All I have is what's on the first page of this thread. There wasn't much to it. I'd be happy to take more pics but I've since taken them out.
 
#197 ·
I made them out of flat stock from Home Depot. i'd be happy to sell them to ya but it would honestly be cheaper to just buy the metal and cut it. It cost about 5 bucks for the metal, you just need to buy 4 bolts, nuts, flat and lock washers.
I'll dig around and see if I can find them.
 
#198 ·
Yeah don't mean to be a bother, just want to see where you had then attached and their general shape. Wouldn't kind creating a how to for people who are overextend in making a setup like yours.
 
#206 ·
Just a thought. What if instead of putting that 45* bend in there, you put a "C" bend in there. This would do two things. It would allow you to mount the skid in an upper location behind your bumper and it would give you a sturdy mounting point for off road lights. To explain it better. Keep the break you have in it now but put an additional 90* break just above the original followed by a reverse 90* break so that the remaining metal tucks up behind your bad ass bumper. So then you would have a flat spot to mount your lights. Hell, with a flat mounting spot like that you could make a removable hoop to protect the grill. The options are limitless. Like I said its just an idea.

By the way, that is one kick ass ride.
 
#203 ·
Holy shit that is one hell of a skid!
 
#207 ·
Man, you might have to draw me a picture on this one...I'm trying to figure out what you mean but I don't see it yet. Seriously, draw it out!

Thanks!
 
#210 ·
:lol:
 
#214 ·
Yeah, that's what I meant, I thought you we're thinking about it. Hey, how's it going with getting a
Vendor to make your winch cradle?
 
#216 ·
As long as I have a large enough opening in the skid directly in front of the fair lead I think I should be good.

Their product looks good but a little pricey. I'm still probably going to build from your template and go that route.
 
#217 ·
Ok, so here is a video showing some quick sheet metal mock ups. This should better show what I was trying to explain in words alone.

http://youtu.be/e9dv45NZh48
 
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#220 · (Edited)
Its amazing what you can do with too much time on your hands due to a lack of work, some spare sheet metal, and a smart phone. :D

One thing I thought of after the fact is where I bent that little vertical section, you could use a piece of 2 inch sch 80 pipe to give you a nice radius that would stand up to pretty much what ever you hit with it. It would also give you a nice rounded edge to use as a rock slider to get up and over any obstacles.

again just my 2 cents
 
#221 ·
The other thing to add to gain some rigidity would be return bends on either side, or a piece welded in perpendicular to the surface. Doesn't have to be big, but a flange along there will dramatically increase the strength.
 
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