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Jay's 05 WK Build Thread

113K views 396 replies 62 participants last post by  Wingnutj 
#1 ·
Figured I'd start a proper build thread so I'd have somewhere to post up my progress rather than dropping random pics all over the place. After wearing out my WJ I decided to stick with another Grand and get a WK. Here is the WJ prior to selling with 180k miles on the clock:

After selling the WJ I looked long and hard across the entire US for the best deal on the exact WK I wanted. I had a few color choices but a few other specs were must have's-
-tow
-5.7l Hemi
-Heated Seats
-Sunroof
-QDII
-<50k miles
After a few months of patiently waiting and negotiation attempts I found the right WK at a steal of a price. So I made a two hour trip and negotiated that steal price further down and drove it home. I sold my Yakima basket with the WJ, so I picked up a Rola and installed it along with my Yakima load bars and bike trays:

I found that along with my Yakima parts, some of the black trim was beginning to fade, so I picked up some U-Pol Raptor liner and began removing and spraying parts. It's been months since spraying and each piece looks brand new. I highly recommend this stuff!


After saving for a couple more months and reading what seems like almost every lift related thread on the forums I decided on a 4" Superlift. My WJ had 2" pucks and crappy shocks and rode like a shopping cart. This time around I wanted maximum lift with minimal geometry change and ride impact. I'm picky about chrome but decided I liked the mix of chrome and silver on the Jeep, with the exception of the stock chrome wheels. I wanted a bit of a dish, but a very simple wheel. I also wanted a tough wheel that would take some abuse. The winning choice for me was the AEV Savegre. AEV makes great products and I knew I couldn't go wrong with them.

After much debate I decided to have someone do the Superlift install as I just didn't have the necessary tools to do it right. I wouldn't take it just anywhere, but I got connected with a great local shop[/URL] that does awesome work. Here is the post-lift result:



The next product I recommend is Plasti-Dip, at least as a temporary solution that is completely reversible. I'd read about it on the forums and I was toying with the notion of painting my grille black. So a trip to Home Depot and 5 bucks later, I sprayed the grille with Plasti-Dip:

I'm glad I only used Plasti-Dip instead of actually sanding, priming, and painting, becuase after two weeks of it I decided it wasn't for me. I peeled it off in about 30 seconds and my chrome grille was good as new. I've got plenty of upcoming projects, starting with a lighting overhaul. I chose Rigid Industries for the majority of my aftermarket lighting. They are pricey, but if you compare their light output vs current draw, then watch their ballistics testing videos on YouTube, you will see they make an incredibly great product. I am currently testing different fitment locations to achieve the max light output. Once that is complete I will setup a shoot that shows the different lights and their outbut brightness, all at same ISO/speed/arpeture. Here is a quick look at light output of just the Rigid LED, no headlights:
 
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#275 · (Edited)
That skid is crazy, I love it. a taper \_/ instead of rectangles ?
 
#279 ·
Jay your jeep is sick bro, I love the way you cut the bumper. I want to do that to mine, is there a write up on it anywhere?
 
#280 ·
There is not a full write up with measurements, but in page 3 or 4 of this thread there is a description of how I did it. I just used a dremel. I love it this way!
 
#282 ·
It def changes the look, in a good way. Im just nervous hacking up my bumper haha. But that is going to be my new project this weekend
 
#283 ·
Awesome! Post some pics when you are done. The cool thing about it is you can basically shape your front bumper however you want it.
 
#284 ·
Well....I hacked up my bumper.... must say that I love it though, Ill post a pic of it after I give the bottom an undercoat of Rustoleum. Thanks for the ideas guys
 
#285 ·
Well I finally started the hidden winch mount. It's pretty easy when all you have to do is follow Omelet's build instructions, although I'm doing it in a little different order:
First I cut out the front crossmember and smoothed off the edges:


Since don't have a long period of time to do it all at once I went ahead and cut the top bracket from angle iron, mounted it up, and sprayed it black so I can roll without a front bumper cover for a few days while I work on the rest.




I scored enough .25" steel plate at a local metal shop's drop pile to cut out the entire winch cradle for $10 and I'm cutting out the pieces now.
 
#287 ·
Not sure yet on the winch, I'm going to look at an 8k lb warn this weekend that's on Craigslist. I'm stoked to finally be getting this done!
 
#289 ·
Oooohhh another hidden winch! Nice start Jay.

Watching :D
 
#291 ·
Didn't get the winch, we had to go to a birthday party 3 hours away yesterday. I've cut a couple pieces out but that's about it. I'll get more done this week!
 
#292 ·
Jayloop,

Nice WK. I really think you nailed the paint on that hood. That looks mean as hell!

I've been going through the '35" WK Club' threads trying to sort out the best possible scenario for me to go from 0" of lift to 6".

Did you have to special order those rear lower control arms? I can't seem to find them but really think I'll need those as well. Are you running rusty's rear adjustable track bar along with the brackets I believe came with the SL?

Do you have part numbers for the shocks and struts you're running?

Thanks I know that's a million questions,
D
 
#293 ·
Did you have to special order those rear lower control arms? I can't seem to find them but really think I'll need those as well. Are you running rusty's rear adjustable track bar along with the brackets I believe came with the SL?
The new SL kit comes with new LCAs instead of drop brackets, so you wont need to custom order a set from Rusty's. You probably wont need the adjustable track bar, but if you are shooting for a 6" then it is nice to have so you can center your axle properly. :thumbsup:
 
#295 ·
Hey D!
Yeah like Omelet said, new kits come with longer LCAs. The part # for the bilstein struts is F4-BE5-D721-H0. They will give you about 3/8" up front. They ride much better than the stock ones after adding the additional height. I would also highly recommend the SRT8 sway bars as they will tighten up your on road ride and get rid of some floatiness. For 6" lift questions, Omelet, Valpacer, and Mr. Tosh will be great resources. They've done some additional things that I have yet to do. Good luck and keep us updated!!!
 
#306 ·
Thanks for the P/N! Got it saved. I'll definitely be going with the Bilsteins up front. I am also highly interested in getting some thicker sway bars since I had some thicker ones made on my old XJ with 37's and it made a world of difference.

I'll keep all of those people in mind.

Thanks again for the help and I'll continue following your build. Love to see other people's work and it doesn't hurt to see a TN Jeeper. NC here!
 
#296 ·
Update: finally got my pieces cut. I've had almost zero time to work on it but I sneak in a few minutes here and there.


Also I ordered a super beefy Viking hawse fairlead!

I've still yet to decide on a winch...probably gonna go with a superwinch EP9 or a Warn M8000i.
 
#298 ·
Nice Jay! I like that fairlead too! I wanted to got their line and fairlead, but it didn't fit into my budget at the time. Great stuff though!

Also, be sure to tack the front piece on (the one the fairlead bolts to) and then pop the bumper cover on and check the fit. The frame is not a perfect 90 to the bumper. You might have to bend it forward so the fairlead sits against the bumper right. If that makes sense :)
 
#301 ·
Looking good there Jay!

Is that hawse ally or poly?
 
#305 ·
At the rate I'm going, who knows. I'm leaving for a weeks vacation tonight, so completion is at least 1.5 weeks out...unless anyone wants to come by my house and finish it up while I'm gone.
 
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