Is there even a more fun part of this "MOAR FUN PART"? Yes - relays, fuse and wire management....
First up - fuse block! For whatever dumb-luck reason....both of the nuts stripped on the main battery leads on the fuse block, when test fitting. I had to drill them out and use similar machine screws/nuts to replace. I found a neat little spot next to the OEM fuse blocks and drilled a screw into the bottom right mounting hole, on the fuse block. This is more of a "finished" pic(with cover on), but you get the idea...
Knowing i needed 5 relays, i tried to think of a decent place to display, access and manage them. I picked the spot next to the battery. behind the driver's side headlight:
I cut some metal off of an old FIPK heat shield to use as a "relay mounting panel":
I cleaned up the edges, drilled mounting holes, touched up with bed-liner and attached the relays:
Sweet! It even kind of looked 1/2 good
I was happy with it....now to get some wires on those things......here are the switch wires(red) and the power wires from the fuse block. Again, everything is labeled for different amperage(fuses) and devices....only need to do devices...
That being said....i need MOAR devices.....on to light mounting and wiring!
Knowing i wanted to have 4 devices up top, i needed 4 sets of wires. I've seen people take their wires through the weather stripping, but I needed some consideration:
I have 2 devices that will require less watts - D2's and XMAS lights - so i can use less gauge - 18awg
I have 2 devices that will use 55W each, so 110W for each wire - 16awg
Putting these together makes for a hefty run, so i split them up. First i ran both sets to the same place under the hood to the driver corner:
This is where they split. i took the 18awg to the left, under the "cabin filter cover" and ran it up UNDER the UNDERNEATH of the weather stripping. i see other guys putting it on the top portion of the weather stripping, but i didnt want any chance of future leaks, so i went for "the under"
I would run this the full length of both doors and come up through the factory hole int the corner:
I grabbed these wires, measured and tapped into the D2 harness:
Ran them to the lights, put on conduit/electric tape and ziptied it up:
Pay no attention to the extra piece of conduit laying up there....looks horrible..
I just left the extra wire lead up in the conduit to attach at a later time....i did the same thing on the other side....exactly.....only difference is that i had to check for CLEARANCE!!!
LIKE A GLOVE!
Now that we know they fit, i can actually wire them up
Back to the HOOD!
All devices are now present and accounted for - all positive wires are run to the relays and all grounds go back to the fuse block:
Finalized the relay panel with electric tape, even painted the screws, mounted (screwed into (just under) pinch weld) and labeled relays accordingly (matching the fuse block).