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  #1165  
Old 05-21-2013, 01:12 PM
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Re: Omelet's Build Thread!


















Oh ya! Making it look easy
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  #1166  
Old 05-21-2013, 01:13 PM
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Re: Omelet's Build Thread!

Now for some beauty shots





















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  #1167  
Old 05-21-2013, 01:15 PM
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Re: Omelet's Build Thread!

We hung out at the top for a little while waiting for a locked up YJ to make it's way up the trail. We didn't want to try to squeeze by him on the way down. I should have grabbed some pics but I didn't. It was pretty funny because he was trying to get up the rock and just couldn't. Then the doors opened up and 4 people crawled out! Then the drive gave it another go and after some spinning and revving made it up.

Now it was time to make our way back down. We decided to leave the rock garden for the next trip. Also another group of hikers decided to stop and watch us descend
















And we made it down the rock. Now to get back to the road. We enjoyed a little more 3wheeling on the way










This guy was pretending to hold John's bumper up and it was pretty funny, but we didn't get the pic in time.







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  #1168  
Old 05-21-2013, 01:16 PM
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Re: Omelet's Build Thread!

The ledge was much easier to slide down then it was to go up, go figure
















Then there was this annoying rock! It was the same rock I crawled over on the way up, only this time it started rolling as I went over it I got the drive side front tire over then when the slider caught it the thing started to tumble.








By this point John was saying, "Umm I'm not too sure about this!" "Can you get out and take a look?" So it looks like the tire is on it but it's not, it's on the axle!




So to keep from sliding the diff into the rock, we rolled some large rocks down and shoved them under the front of the rear tire. That did the trick and allowed the tire to climb up and over the rock. After that situation John decided to take the high route around the rock






And that's it! We stopped at the bottom to air up. The YJ came down as we were about to leave. He had snapped a shaft coming back down

I hope you enjoyed this adventure and don't tell me I didn't worn you about all the pics!!!
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  #1169  
Old 05-21-2013, 01:21 PM
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Re: Omelet's Build Thread!

(2 March 2013)

Ok time for some of the new upgrade!

First up I placed an order with JBA/4xG for a set of their full length 6" rear coils. I have been running the SL 4" coils with a set of poly spacers chopped down to 1.5" which was getting me a 25" hub-fender measurement. I called JBA to talk to them about their coils in hopes that the 6" coils they make would give similar lift measurements. Fortunately they had Chris' old Jeep there for comparison. Apparently they haven't installed their 8" coils onto their 8" lifted Jeep yet...weird? So they came back with a hub-fender measurement (after subtracting the spacer) with 25", which was great news. So that meant that without any extra rear weight I would at least get the lift I wanted. My only fear was getting more lift than desired. So their 6" coils will give you a 5" rear lift, exactly what I wanted! So I bought the only set they had




Once unpacked there was no way I was going to put those gaudy red coils on my Jeep




So I primed them




Then painted them semi gloss black




After a day to dry I dropped the rear and removed the SL coils, poly spacers, and the old original coil isolators.




A side by side of the JBA 6" coil measuring in at about 18.5" and the SL 4" coil measuring in at 16"




Then with the poly spacer and isolator like I was running before.




Also the SL coils measure 6.5" in diameter while the JBA coils measure 5.5"






Then I installed the new 6" coils along with new upper and lower isolators.




The bumpstop barely fits without rubbing, I'm hoping that doesn't change while wheeling. Once everything was back together and on the ground I was sitting at 25". So if I add more weight and/or they settle at all, I will need to add another isolator to bring it back up. But that is better than being too high!
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  #1170  
Old 05-21-2013, 01:23 PM
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Re: Omelet's Build Thread!

Next up was longer shocks to fully utilize the full length coils. I have been running a the 11" Fox shocks for a while now, but those only extend out to 28". With the old coil and spacer setup the coil would become unsprung at about 29-30" which is never a good thing. So now that I have these longer ones I can run a longer shock without the coils falling out or not reseating properly. Because I LOVE my Fox shocks so much I decided to get another set. This time I went with a set of 2.0 12" remote reservoir with the C/D adjust! I went ahead and had them valved the same as my last set (30/60), but I was really thinking of going lighter this time around since I have the adjust this time. I might choose to revalve them later down the road once I get my rear bumper setup and tire carrier on, but they are good for now.






I was having them built and was really hoping they would be finished by the time my coils were ready to go in so I could do everything at once. Well I got impatient and installed the coils and just as I was finishing up, I got a call the shocks were ready. Go figure! So then I spent the next two days after work installing them.

I have learned a few things over the years since originally installing the 11" ones and tried to get some good pics this time around of the instal

The old 11" next t the new 12"






The 12" shocks extend to 31" so by swapping them in I will gain 3" of down travel over the 11" shocks! So excited!!!




Now for the instal pics

This time I got the rubber ends instead of the eyelet bearings.




I bought a box of zinc plated fender washers to use as spacers on each side of the bushing since they are not wide enough to fill the shock mount on their own.




The hole in the washers was 1/5" and to use them with the bushing I had to drill them out to 5/8". That was just with the first washer on each side of the bushing in order for it to sit flat.






Now I wasn't too sure about doing this next part, but in the end it worked out nicely. I noticed that the top shock bolt was a bit smaller than the outer mount hole. So even with the bolt really tight the head would still move around some while driving. You can see here how over time this has caused some where.




So to stop this I grabbed a pair of bronze flange bearings to use in the hole.




I had to drill the outer hole a little bigger until they fit just right.




This way the bolt will fit snug in the flange and the flange will be snug in the hole. If it moves around over time it will wear down the bronze flange instead of wearing out the mount. The flange is easy to replace and the shock mount is not.

Now in order for the flange to sit flat against the bushing, it to had to be drilled and beveled some.

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  #1171  
Old 05-21-2013, 01:23 PM
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Re: Omelet's Build Thread!

Now the upper shock bolt isn't quite large enough to fit snug in the flange or the shock eye. Since the bolt threads directly into the frame you can't easily just swap to a larger bolt. The easiest thing to do is wrap the section of the bolt that will be in the flange and shock eye with electrical tape until it is snug.






Another thing I noticed before was a couple of spots where the reservoir hose might rub and cause damage. You can see one of those spots here




I had wrapped the reservoir hose with some rubber hose before and you can see it did its' job well!




So this time I decided to use a grinder and round that spot smooth. I also trimmed another potential spot to gain more clearance. You can see those here




After another test fit I noticed I had to trim more which is the shiny spot




Just to be safe I still wrapped the reservoir hose with a rubber hose and zip-tied it in place




It was now time to finally bolt it in! First I installed the bronze flange in the hole on the outside mount, then I placed (1) washer which I had drilled against the inside bushing, followed by (2) non-drilled washers on the same side. I aligned everything and threaded the bolt in for a snug fit. So to be clear, from the outside hole (where the bolt goes in) I used (1) bronze flange, then the shock, then (1) drilled washer, then (2) non-drilled washers.




Now that the top was installed, it was time for the bottom. This was the easy side. First I wrapped the bolt so it fit snug in the lower shock eye, then I used (1) drilled washer on each side of the shock bushing, and put it all together.




And there we have it! An installed 12" Fox shock providing a 31" extended shock length without the 6" coil unseating!




In order to get the extra down travel without issues I also had to extend my brake lines a little more and since I have QD2, I had to lengthen the wires going to the ELSD in the diff.
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  #1172  
Old 05-21-2013, 01:29 PM
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Re: Omelet's Build Thread!

(3 MAR 2013)

I did some quick flexing to see how the new shocks and coils will perform together. Turns out I really need to get my new control arms in! The rear tire is off the ground but the shock still had an inch or so more to go until it maxed.








I'm still amazed at how well these thick tires flex at 40psi!




Also did you notice my awesome new sticker ^^^
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  #1173  
Old 05-21-2013, 01:31 PM
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Re: Omelet's Build Thread!

So another mod I'm working on is a CO2 tank! Yes I know I already have OBA, but I don't always like or have time to air up after wheeling especially when I'm with other guys who don't have any air source. So I finally decided to give CO2 a go. I didn't want to spend a fortune on any of those over priced name brand systems, but I didn't want something that was going to crap out on me either. So after some research and reading a lot of user reviews I decided to build my own. Since I already have a quality hose and air chucks all I needed was the tank, regulator, and a mount. I snagged a Quick Fist mount ($12) and a brand new 5lb aluminum tank ($50) off eBay.




Then grabbed a fixed 150psi regulator ($55) from The Source.




I still need to get it filled, but in the mean time I need to mount it. Now I am not planning on leaving it in the Jeep at all times, so at this point I am leaning towards mounting it on the passenger side standing up right. This way I don't HAVE to remove it to use it and it's in a good out of the way place.






However I am also thinking of mounting it on it's side against the driver side. It would still be mostly out of the way, but I would HAVE to remove it when I needed to us it and grab another $12 mount. The up side to this spot is I can still use the cargo cover (without modifying it)

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  #1174  
Old 05-21-2013, 01:33 PM
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Re: Omelet's Build Thread!

(22 MAR 2013)

Well after running without my front inner fender liners I finally decided to put some in! I bought a set of aftermarket ones off eBay for $60 shipped. Now that my pinch welds are flattened and pushed in to clear 35s while wheeling, I needed to keep that area as flat and slick as possible. I also wanted to use different hardware then what I was using before. So I started collecting some supplies.

I bought these at Lowes to use in place of all the pop rivets and to suck the liner tight against the pinch weld.




Also since the stock insulation was long gone I got 2 of these small rolls to use inside the fenders.




I stuck the liners up in place and marked the spots where I planned to use the speed nuts. Not all the holes lined up since I was pushing and pulling the liners around in the fender for max clearance. After finding just the right spot for each one, I did some trimming and clipped them on.




Now for the pinch weld bulge! This is how they look for stock PW clearance.




This time around I decided to cut straight up the ridge. Then using a heat gun, made the pieces lay flat and overlap. I got the great idea to take the blade off my old tire groover and use it to milt the plastic and joint the two pieces together.




This is how it turned out afterwards plus adding a self tapping screw to make sure it stays put.






I also marked off and trimmer the front of the liners to match the trimmed bumper.








For the insulation I unrolled each piece out all the way.




Then I folded each piece vertically and used the big bags the liners came wrapped in and made bags for the insulation.




Once that was done and the liners were ready to go in, I shoved the insulation in place.










You might have also noticed that I added a couple of anchor points. One in the rear of the fender 6" or so over the very bottom screw. I added that one to keep the liner tight against the fender lip especially while driving at freeway speeds. The second is at the front of the fender going into the bumper lip. Because I trimmed the bumper I was missing the bottom hole up front to keep the liner secure, so I added one at the new bottom edge.
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  #1175  
Old 05-21-2013, 01:36 PM
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Re: Omelet's Build Thread!

(23 MAR 2013)

Yesterday I finally got around to installing the new rear LCAs I have had sitting around for the past month! I have been wanting some better arms with quality rubber bushings on the frame end and flex joints on the axle end. I did some measuring and browsing on Rusty's site, then placed a custom order for these:




The frame end is a OEM rubber bushing and the axle end is their 2.5" forged flex joint, exactly what I was looking for! Now the stock arm measures 17.25" from eye to eye.




And the SL arm measures 17.75" from eye to eye.




So the SL arms are fixed at .5" longer than stock. I decided to have my arms made at 17" eye to eye when fully collapsed for plenty of adjustability.

For the instal I like to use a ratchet strap to keep the axle from moving around on me. I planned to adjust these to 17.75" just like the SL arms I was removing. So if I could keep the axle from moving around it was going to be as simple as unbolting and removing the SL arms, then positioning and bolting in the new arms. I removed and installed one arm at a time, not removing both arms at the same time




With the SL arm out I was able to get a good side by side shot of all of them.




You will notice how the SL arm is bent, that is so the sway bar link doesn't contact the arms while flexing. I plan to disconnect whenever I go wheeling so by using a straight arm I will gain a little of ground clearance. I adjusted the new arm to 17.75" and got it positioned in the brackets.




The 2.5" forged flex joint fit like a glove in the axle mount!




The rubber end was slightly loose so I added a 1/8" washer on one side to make it fit good and tight.




The flex end is equipped with a zerk fitting to keep it well greased. I was about to position the joint with the zerk on top out of harms way, and rotate the zerk so it was easy to get the gun on it while bolted in place.




And there we have it! Shiny new and flexy arms






After seeing just how beautiful these things turned out I am thinking of getting a pair of upper ones made to match! I want to go out and test flex this thing first though. If it flexes good enough then I might wait, but if it could still do better then the uppers will get swapped too
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  #1176  
Old 05-21-2013, 01:39 PM
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Re: Omelet's Build Thread!

(25 MAR 2013)

Even though I don't live in a wet area or do any river fording, there are other benefits to snorkels that most don't think of when you think "snorkel". They are also great for keeping your intake filter cleaner. Particularly on those trail runs when you are behind other Jeeps who are kicking up clouds of dust. Not having your intake pulling in the air from your grill or fender well and instead pulling from roof height makes a big difference! Of course there is also the other reason... THEY LOOK AWESOME!!! Now we all know about the Airflow snorkel that has been out for a while:




Well no offense to anyone, but personally I think they look like a big turd or growth on the side of the Jeep! Not only that, but until repentantly they were about $600 (they are now around $500). So even though I have wanted a snorkel for some time now 1. there was no way I was ging to shell out $600 for that hideous thing 2. the wife refused to allow it on the Jeep (not that I was even trying to talk her into it) 3. I just didn't NEED one that bad.

I had decided that I would get creative with fiberglass at some point after completing a few more of my big projects of the Jeep I had been planning. That is until I found a guy on FB in Venezuela (I think) who was using something different. I tried to get as much info out of him as I could, which in the end wasn't much He said he used a Safari SS165-HF for an ISUZU D-MAX, but that his was fiberglass or something After looking at some not so clear FB pics and checking out Safari's site I wasn't so sure. I started looking at other models that Safari made and thought the SS160-HF for a diesel Rodeo actually looked better. SO I contacted our awesome bud Nick Kolak and he was about to really hook me up on one up in WA A few days later I picked it up from UPS just in time for the weekend!






Time to see what I was dealing with.




Originally I figured I would mount the actual snorkel and then use 4" pipe inside the fender to connect it to the filter box. After seeing just how much room I had to deal with in there, I might need to try and use the included inner piece. For now I turned all my attention to first seeing if this was even going to mount and line up right, and second making sure I wasn't going to butcher the fender and/or the snorkel in the process.

I started by removing the ORT8 badge and stripe on the passenger side. Then cleaned off all the goo and applied a layer of painters tape. I also removed the antenna.




The included template was a little too rigid for the curved fender of the WK, so I grabbed a piece of paper and made my own. Then I cut out the 4" hole so I could lay it flat against the back side of the snorkel and trace the edges of the snorkel on the paper. That way I could hold the snorkel right where I thought I wanted it and then tape the paper in place on the fender while visually lining up the edges. This insured me that the holes I needed to drill would be in the correct place. This also helped to see where I was going to be drilling on the fender so I could keep an eye on the lines and curves.




I had contemplated the idea of buying a fender off eBay to bolt on and use an a first draft, but ended up decided I didn't want to wait and if I took my time, then it should be fine. The big issue was that the snorkel has a 4" tube coming off the back of it that is an inch or two in length. This made it very difficult to properly see where and how the snorkel was actually going to lay on the fender and A-pillar. After adjusting the template many times. Standing back and looking. Re-adjusting and looking some more. Having the wife weigh in with her thoughts. Then looking at it some more. I finally decided to get the drill and do it already!




This took a bit of a gut check, but it needed to be done in order to really see how it was going to fit. I figured that if needed I still had some room to play with moving the snorkel around before you could see a hole sticking out the side of it




THERE I DID IT!!! Now the snorkel can lay flat and I can really see how she was going to fit. Before drilling the three mounting bolt holes I needed to make sure it was going to fit tight against the fender while also hitting the A-pillar correctly to bolt on. So I loosely mounted the included bracket to the snorkel and lined it up, only to find that the bracket wasn't going to work (not that I was surprised). So I pulled the weather stripping off the pillar and took some measurements. I first made a bracket out of cardboard then used a spare piece of aluminum.




After a few times holding it in place, pulling the bracket off to bend it, then holding it back up. I had this at the end.




The bracket happened to line up with one of the small screws holding the weather strip on. However the plastic needed to be modified slightly for a tight fit.




After being very careful with the dremel I ended up with this.




Now that I had the bracket finished I could continue fitting the snorkel. I replaced the small screw with a larger self tapping one. I will use two more later one so there will be three screws holding it in later, but for now I just needed the one to hold it in place. This was the first time I could mount it and stand back to see how it looked!

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