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  #13  
Old 02-03-2013, 09:28 AM
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Re: WKorBust Build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Well done on carving out those letters.
Thanks! It took a lot longer than I was expecting and had to let my hand un-cramp for about a half hour afterwards.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoguie7 View Post
Can't wait to see those letters lighted-up! Have you ever think on putting leds behind the outside door handles so it'll light in between?
Ask and you shall receive. I'm not sure you could put it behind the handles because of the frequent use, plus you would have to drill the door to run the wire.
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  #14  
Old 02-03-2013, 09:41 AM
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Re: WKorBust Build thread

Now on to the wiring. Honestly, this took the longest time to do if only from the number of connections. Again, big thanks to Buda for walking me through it. After seeing Omelet and a few others tie their underbody lights in to the courtesy feature, I knew this is a function I wanted to have, but tied in to Moar Lytes. So after brainstorming for a bit, I came up with this wiring diagram. Next was to actually begin construction. I used the same auxiliary fuse block that Buda and others have used, but the large one with 8 slots. I ran a 10G wire from the block to the battery and covered the connectors with liquid tape.

For the actual switches, I used Contura V switches from OTRATTW.com. Big shout out to them as by the time I got to installing the switches, I found some had non-fuctioning LEDs. I sent Jim an email and he shipped out replacement switches via Priority mail. I used a quick connector typically seen inside computer cases. It supports 9 pins so I had one for power, ground, and one per switch lead. It made adjusting things beyond easy to just grab one connector and disconnect my switches. One picture is of the quick connector, the other picture is how I actually wired all the tabs as seen in the paint drawing.
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File Type: png Jeep Wiring.png (120.2 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20121124_144358.jpg (519.0 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20121118_200323.jpg (562.6 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20121215_175745.jpg (561.9 KB, 11 views)
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  #15  
Old 02-03-2013, 09:48 AM
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Re: WKorBust Build thread

For the DPST tie in to control between manual activation and courtesy activation, I mounted it as a hidden switch in the cubby hold forward of the shift knob. Getting all of the center console out was nearly all grab and pull. I just followed WKJeeps guide for the center stack and everything came out as expected. Going in to this, I thought I would need two DPST switches - one for the underbody and one for the main lights - but I found I only needed one, so ignore that other switch. In the mouth, the Rigid red-dot switch controls my logo lights, all the rest are controlled by the Contura switches.

I like this because in neutral, no lights will come on. In courtesy mode, only the switches set to "on" will come on with the unlock button and in manual mode, the switches will turn things on/off individually. Perks of this mean that if someone borrows my jeep and I don't tell them where that switch is, they can't do any shennanigans with all my lights. Another perk is my blue LED contura's aren't lit when I don't need them, which is a big bonus considering where I mounted them.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20121125_162625.jpg (508.3 KB, 7 views)
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  #16  
Old 02-03-2013, 09:53 AM
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Re: WKorBust Build thread

I had originally planned to mount the switch panel in the driver side cubby, but the bracket designed for that spot can't fit 7 switches so I had to think of somewhere else to mount them. Again, I took a page out of Omelet's build and mounted them overhead. He is way more ballsy than me to cut the headliner, so I took a slightly different route.

Since my sunglasses are always on my face, I looked at the over-head sunglass holder as wasted/unused space. So I pulled down the overhead console unit and got to modifying. The unit as a whole is only held in by push pins, so giving a good yank down should pop it out. Now I had to cut, trim and shim a piece of lexan plexiglass in to fill the gap. I used a good bit of hot-glue, sanding and dremeling to get everything to fit. Finished product still needs a final top coat, but you can get the idea on what it will look like below.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20121215_135450.jpg (520.3 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20121215_135501.jpg (514.4 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20121215_135610.jpg (505.6 KB, 7 views)
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  #17  
Old 02-03-2013, 09:56 AM
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Re: WKorBust Build thread

In th mean time, I just used a zip-tie to hold my switches in what will be their final location. Left to right its PIAA, Matrix Dually, Matrix 20" spot, under-body lights, roof 30" spot, roof Dually, and of course, BACKUP! lytes

While I waited, I also jacked up my Jeep and took each wheel off to plasti-dip. So much meaner looking with the dark rims vs the OEM look. We'll see how well this stuff holds up to living in the salt-belt of DMV.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20130202_165251.jpg (516.6 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20130202_165315.jpg (528.5 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20130120_183013.jpg (493.8 KB, 11 views)
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  #18  
Old 02-05-2013, 10:49 AM
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Re: WKorBust Build thread

Two remote activation of the lights. First is unlocking with just logo and under-body lights. Second is the full monty on unlock. For a <60 second video, uploading these with a 1Mbps upload speed took a lot longer than expected.

First:
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  #19  
Old 02-05-2013, 10:51 AM
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Re: WKorBust Build thread

Second:
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  #20  
Old 02-05-2013, 12:00 PM
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Re: WKorBust Build thread

Love the light up logos, looks $$.
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  #21  
Old 02-05-2013, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WKorBust View Post
I had originally planned to mount the switch panel in the driver side cubby, but the bracket designed for that spot can't fit 7 switches so I had to think of somewhere else to mount them. Again, I took a page out of Omelet's build and mounted them overhead. He is way more ballsy than me to cut the headliner, so I took a slightly different route.

Since my sunglasses are always on my face, I looked at the over-head sunglass holder as wasted/unused space. So I pulled down the overhead console unit and got to modifying. The unit as a whole is only held in by push pins, so giving a good yank down should pop it out. Now I had to cut, trim and shim a piece of lexan plexiglass in to fill the gap. I used a good bit of hot-glue, sanding and dremeling to get everything to fit. Finished product still needs a final top coat, but you can get the idea on what it will look like below.
Looks awesome! I may have to copy this.
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  #22  
Old 02-06-2013, 05:06 AM
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Re: WKorBust Build thread

That logo came up great.
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