I wanted to share what I installed in my WK2 and provide some insights for others who might want to tackle something similar. I did all this in June of 2013... Sorry for just getting around to posting about it..
First, the parts list:
There are a few bits missing from the above.. namely:
- PAC Audio C2R-CHY4
- This provides a critical link to the CAN-Bus of the JGC. Without this, the system throws errors that the Blind Spot Detection System has failed.. among a few others.
- You *DO* need to connect the amp output of your head unit to the Remote input of the C2R-CHY4 for proper operation.
- Parrot Unika
- This provides steering wheel interface, as well as all other CAN bus integration that you'd need (lights on, reverse gear, etc)
While none of the outputs from the C2R-CHY4 are required with the addition of the Unika, without it, you will have CAN-Bus issues.
- I used the factory speaker wires. Some will argue that you need to run all-new, higher quality speaker wire.. I've never noticed any significant difference at the levels normal people operate at.
- To accomplish this, I:
- Removed the factory amp
- Cut the wiring harnesses off that had plugged into the amp
- Connected the front door tweet/woofer wires to the crossover outputs for the JL C2-650 component set
- Connected a length of new speaker wire to the JL C2-650 Crossover input
- Connected a length of new speaker wire to the wires going to the rear-door speakers (JL C2-650X installed there)
- I mounted the XD700/5 amp under the Driver's seat.
- There's a cavity there the same size as the battery well under the Passenger's seat.
- Depending on your WK2's options, you may have some other components in there too.. I did, but there was still plenty of room.
- I ran the new speaker wires from the factory amp location up to this position, along with the wire from the newly installed Stealthbox.
- I grounded the amp via an existing threaded ground post behind the B-pillar cover (beside the Driver's seat)
- I provided power by jumping across under the center console from the battery well on the passenger side. (Via an appropriate sized fuse of course)
- I mounted the remote volume control in the center pop-up below the climate controls. I placed it vertically on the bottom of the cavity, to the left hand side (closer to the driver). The door closes and hides it neatly.
All in all, it sounds AMAZING! I've done several car audio installs over the years... this by far sounds better than anything I've done in the past (includig a competition car w/ 32 speakers
<- it had more bass of course.. )
The Parrot Asteroid is a great platform..
- Android based unit that's easy to root and get on the Google App Market
- Great audio quality with a 7 band EQ, separate sub controls (Crossover from 50hz to 200hz in 10hz steps, +/- 6db gain in 1db steps)
- Waze works very well for nav and warning of/reporting accidents, speed traps, speed cams, etc...
- SlingPlayer for Android Phones worked well!
- ZM View / IPCam worked well for checking my home security cams
- I was never able to get Google Music streaming audio to work well. It continued to have jittery audio.
- Same for Pandora...
- It's Android Gingerbread
- It's low memory (512mg RAM) and relatively low powered compared to todays smart-phones.
- It'll never run anything higher than Gingerbread in its current form.
All in all though, I liked it well enough that I also installed another Parrot Asteroid in my RV. Waze really is the killer app for this unit. While you can run it on your cell.. it's much nicer to have it front and center on your in-dash radio...
You'll not be able to swap out the 8.4a or 8.4an (RA3/RA4) Units with an aftermarket head unit... at least not for a while, if ever.
Having just ordered a 2014 WK2 Limited Diesel, I plan to swap all the speakers / factory amp from the new Jeep into the old... and put my new speakers / amp in the new Jeep.
Hope this helps someone!