Sup homeys! I'm new here.
I'm a former car audio SQ nut, and have been getting back into things, lately. Not head first, but just dabbing in and out of the forums (of which so many have dwindled and died... remember how big carsound was? and elitecaraudio?). It seems as if the whole industry has taken a HUGE hit. You can't even find optical or AI outputs on an alpine nav anymore!? Only thing is, prices seem to have gone down. I have found some great prices on quality amps, which previously I had to go with vintage/unknown stuff for (zed audio, etc.). I had a system done for me in my STI, and I chose MB Quart Onyx amps. DIRT cheap, and absolutely great. They put out rated power, don't get hot, and they're reliable. Which is all I ask! On to the system plans:
I believe I'm going to stick w/the stock HU/NAV, but it's an option to go with the Alpine INA-W910. Either way, I'll be running an Alpine PXA-H800. Considering the PXA-H800 will reverse any processing done by the stock system, will convert the analog signal to digital, and then use it's own capable d/a converters, I'm leaning stock, so I don't have to integrate the rear view cam & steering wheel controls into a new unit, and to deter theft by hiding the fact that there's an aftermarket stereo in thur. Thoughts? There is a factory processor in the quarter panel, right? Does it receive a digital signal, by chance, or an XLR?
I'll be running Adire Audio Extremis 6.8's in the doors, CSS LD25X tweeters in the stock locations, and three CSS SDX10's for subbass. Going old school on ya w/the Adire! Don't know if you guys remember the Brahma's, and such, but their big deal was the XBL^2 motor. CSS apparently bought the rights to use the motor when Adire went out of biz. All of the drivers in the car will use this motor. The Brahma's, without doubt, were the best sounding subs I've ever heard, next to the w7, which they were so close to, that it was hard to pick one. I'm excited about the 10s. If you look at the f3 in a room (in a sealed box, mind you!) you'll see that these things will have zero problem with low end extension down to inaudible levels.
I'll have 120 watts on each of the tweeters from a bridged ONX4.60
, 250 watts on each of the Extremis mids from a bridged ONX4.125
, and I'll have 2,000 watts to split between the three 10's from an ONX1.2000d
. I know, I know, but the gains will be way down, and I like headroom
. I'll be upgrading the alternator, and throwing in an Optima Yellow Top, so it won't be a problem.
So I need to know my options for a few things, and hopefully you guys can save me some time!
- Power&Speaker Wiring: I'd like to just go ahead and run a 1/0 gauge power wire to a d-block in the back. The battery is under the passenger seat, I see. That's good! Will my yellow top fit? Where can I fit the 1/0 gauge to run to the trunk? Hopefully I can just use the old path from the alternator. The speaker wire will go to the front doors, up either side, under the sill plates, and into the door via the stock rubber hose. Issues?
- Speaker install: I'm just going to jig/route flush mount baffles to mount the mids to in the 6x9 location. Any advice here? I'm going to dampen the doors pretty good. For the tweeters: I'll probably just end up taking the stock piece off, and using a dremel, and maybe some fiberglass, and cover in suede. The subs... I think I'll start with a baltic birch box, and start building a fiberglass spare tire well enclosure. There's quite a bit of room there, could even think about making it 4 10's .
- Sound dampening: I've got a 5 gallon of liquid. What spots have you guys found to be the most important? I was thinking the rear hatch, the doors, the floor pans, firewall, spare tire well, and quarter panels. Then the plastic panels on the doors, the rear hatch, the quarter panels... Anything else?
Thanks for the help in advance! Links to wk2 installs would be awesome, as well! Anything I've forgotten, lmk!