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Old 04-08-2014, 10:13 PM
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Amp Bypass Harness for 2011 WK2 with Alpine amp

hey.. for the guys that installed a new full system in your WK2, is there a harness made so i can tap in and solder without cutting off the factory harness?
According to the following PDF, it looks like i need a 16 PIN and a 22 PIN harness. The 22 pin looks very similar to the factory radio harness that you get behind the radio, but i am not sure where to get the 16 pin

http://www.wk2jeeps.com/audio/2012_WK_audio_wiring.pdf


The main goals are to
1) avoid running new speaker wires from my new amp in the trunk, especially to the rear hatch tweeter locations and the center channel location
2) avoid any sort of splicing of the wires by purchasing the receiver harness with bar wires.

anyone have any ideas, or did all of you just run new speaker wires from your amp(s)?
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:26 AM
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Re: Amp Bypass Harness for 2011 WK2 with Alpine amp

Greetings,

The first question, what is you new amp going to power up? Are you going to keep the surround sound?

When I didi my system, I use the existing factory OEM speaker wires. I did change out all my OEM speakers.

Best for now.
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Old 04-09-2014, 01:10 AM
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Re: Amp Bypass Harness for 2011 WK2 with Alpine amp

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stJeepGC View Post
Greetings,

The first question, what is you new amp going to power up? Are you going to keep the surround sound?

When I didi my system, I use the existing factory OEM speaker wires. I did change out all my OEM speakers.

Best for now.
This will be new from headunit to amp, nothing will be retained but will be installing a bit one so the only thing retained will be hopefully the unmollested factory harness and speaker wires and tap in my new amp at the factory amp location
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:38 PM
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Re: Amp Bypass Harness for 2011 WK2 with Alpine amp

Quote:
Originally Posted by phatcow View Post
This will be new from headunit to amp, nothing will be retained but will be installing a bit one so the only thing retained will be hopefully the unmollested factory harness and speaker wires and tap in my new amp at the factory amp location
Greetings,

Since you are going with a new headunit, your best bet is to get a factory harness from either Pac-Audio, iDatalink or Metraonline just name a few. Then run a high quality RCA interconnect (digital if you can) from HU to the Bitone.

As I answered in a different thread, you can remove the amp and since you have intentions to get the Kenwood 991, your best bet is the iDatalink harness.

12' Altitude Stereo Overhaul

Best for now.
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Old 04-09-2014, 01:12 PM
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Re: Amp Bypass Harness for 2011 WK2 with Alpine amp

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stJeepGC View Post
Greetings,

Since you are going with a new headunit, your best bet is to get a factory harness from either Pac-Audio, iDatalink or Metraonline just name a few. Then run a high quality RCA interconnect (digital if you can) from HU to the Bitone.

As I answered in a different thread, you can remove the amp and since you have intentions to get the Kenwood 991, your best bet is the iDatalink harness.

12' Altitude Stereo Overhaul

Best for now.
I am getting the Idatalink maestro, but only for the EVIC integration/ rear camera/ buttons. However since there is no direct amplifcation (stock) from the RHR to the speakers, everything goes through the Alpine amp through the canbus bridge AFAIK


I am assuming there arent direct speaker leads behind the factory radio, and everything hubs off at alpine amp

My understanding of the setup is

HEAD UNIT ---------------ALPINE AMP===========SPEAKERS

this leads me to believe i need to tap in to the proprietary connector FROM the alpine amp to the speakers, and not tie in directly behind the radio like a ampless honda or nissan

unless im being a total about this?
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Old 04-09-2014, 03:54 PM
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Re: Amp Bypass Harness for 2011 WK2 with Alpine amp

Greetings,

Headunit --- BITone ---- Amps is correct.

It was simple, from the location of the amps speaker connections, just run a 16 gauge speaker wire and splice into that speaker OEM wire. Next we solder the connection and heat shield. The speaker wire is just a few feet in runs to the respective locations. You will not be losing any significant power as compared to a subwoofer. For the subwoofer, we ran 12 gauge straight from the amp to the the speaker. Done.

Best for now.
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