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Old 07-17-2014, 11:39 AM
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Audio upgrade advise

I am upgrading my audio system (430 RHB with Nav/Alpine 9 speaker) in my 2013 Trailhawk. Keeping the 430 and factory amp for now.

I already added an Audio Control LCQ1 after the factory amp and a SSL EVO 2900.5 5 ch amp (175wRMS x 4 into
, 750wRMS sub into ) after the LCQ1. The amp might get changed/upgraded in the future. I am leaving the center and rear "surround" (D pillar) speakers on the factory amp.
I have a JL Stealthbox Sub (10" 500wRMS
2Ω) on the way!

Next up is the door speaker replacement, front & rear
Here is my short list in order:
1. Polk MM6501
125wRMS & MM651 100wRMS 2.7Ω. $355 for both sets
2. Focal 165AS and AC 60wRMS
4Ω. $350 for both sets
3. MB Quart Premium
PVM216 & PVM116 80wRMS . $240 for both sets
or
if I upgrade the front to QS216 with PVM116 80wRMS 4Ω. $365 for both sets
5. JL C3-650 75wRMS 4Ω. $550 for both sets
6. JL C5-650 & C5650x
75wRMS 4Ω. $675 for both sets

or for much less:

7. Polk DB6501 100wRMS & DB651 60wRMS 4 ohms. $200 for both sets

Tell me your opinion and preference on these speakers please.
I think I am prob getting the Polk MM6501 & MM651. I really liked the way the Polk DB650 sounded in my old 1999 Grand Cherokee and 2008 Wrangler JKU. Hoping I'll get similar (better) results from MM6501/651 with JL Stealthbox combo in the Trailhawk.

Since I still have factory speakers, I currently have the output of factory amp wires of front door speakers (6x9, not tweeters) going into ch 1, rear door speakers into ch 2 and sub into ch 3 of the LCQ1, not summed. LCQ1 to amp and back to speakers with original signal intact.
When I get the new speakers installed, I want to sum the front door tweeters (not the 6x9) on ch 1, rear door on ch 2 and sub on ch 3 all summed in the LCQ1.
Next questions:
1. Is this the "best" input to get a summed full range signal out of the LCQ1?
2. What are the tweeter wire colors (L&R) out of the factory amp? (black plug?)
Thanks for the help
Joe

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Old 07-18-2014, 07:51 AM
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Re: Audio upgrade advise

Greetings,

With regards to speakers, as I tell everybody, no two people hear alike. The choices are very good. IMO, it comes down to the tweeter. Do you prefer a soft and clear sound of a soft dome type tweeter or a metallic sound from an metal based tweeter. It is worth investing in a better tweeter. This all depends on the music you listen to. The next important issue based upon your install plan, I always recommend to get a better passive crossover (personally, I prefer the active route) in the component sets. For the rear door, since you are intending to keep a surround sound system, my recommendation is to get a speaker that does not have a lot of hi-end in it. The interesting aspect of the Factory Premium system, is the speaker locations and type of speakers are correct. One tweeter is correct and both rears and center for full range is also done right. However, as many here have upgraded, including myself, the quality of the speakers and performance that Chrysler spec is whole another story.

If I was you and intend to keep a surround system and have the factory DSP integrated into the system to maintain with out investing in aftermarket surround sound DSP unit, I would wire this differently. I would create a 7.0 system which work extremely well for music. To accomplish this, simply sum the front tweeter, front 6x9, and sub all together. The factory DSP inter plays with sub and 6x9 which is the reason to sum it that way to capture the correct frequency for the 20k to 20,000k full range reference standard. With your 5-channel amp, you will be powering the sub, the front door component set, and the rear door with factory amp powering the rest. For the rear door you going to take the factory output via hi-low converter (very cheap, get an RCA) directly into the rear channel of the 5-channel amp. You do not need a lot of power for the rear, so turn the gains down.

Now, if you find that factory center and rear D pillar not up to your liking, than you will have the option in investing in a 4-channel amp and additional speakers. Keep the center match to your front speakers as best as possible. The beauty of the L/C/R effect gives you a well balanced wall of sound.

I always ask the simple question to anybody that has questions about upgrading. Do want to go the traditional front/rear/sub or a surround sound system using either a 5.1 or 7.1. In your case, which ever route you go, think about later getting rid of the 430. The sound quality of that Mitsubishi designed HU will not do your upgrades any justice.

Best for now.
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Old 07-18-2014, 08:31 AM
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Re: Audio upgrade advise

In the past, many people used to complain that Focals are too bright, but I personally love them. But like 1stJeep said, everyone has their own preferences and opinions on what sounds the best when I comes to speaker materials and design.
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Old 07-18-2014, 03:41 PM
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Re: Audio upgrade advise

I am an audiophile at home for sure! I love 2 ch analog music, preferably on vinyl. I have Klipsch Reference speakers that have loaded horn tweeters, so I do like my music to be bright.
In the future I will likely change the 430 HU, but after this expense it might be a year from now.
If I dont like the way it sounds with the center and D pillar surround speakers still on the factory amp, I will just disconnect them. I really prefer my music in stereo, not surround, so we will see (or listen).

After listening to all the noted speakers, I found the Focal to be what I liked best for the money I have budgeted.
The JL Stealthbox and Focal speakers should be a nice compliment to each other and I found them all at what I think is a pretty good price.
I decided that I wanted to keep the front doors as 6x9 components (hoping for a punchier mid bass), Focal has a 6x9 component set, so that worked out too.
The LCQ-1 has separate 6 band EQs for both front and rear channels and a third 5 band EQ for the sub channel, So I should be able to tame the speakers as needed. I plan to use a spectrum analyzer and an SPL meter to get it as close as I can.
Here is what I am getting:
Stealthbox $580
Focal ISS 690 6x9 component $250
Focal IS 650 6.5 coax $130
Total $960
Not bad for under a grand!

So, the "best" 3 channels to sum for an accurate 20-20k full range signal is front tweeters, front door mid woofers and sub?
Not using the rear door at all? I was thinking the rear door was the "only" full range signal and then the tweeters and sub would cover the rest of the high & low.
Any idea what the wire colors are for the front tweeters out of the factory amp?
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:59 PM
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Re: Audio upgrade advise

Quote:
Originally Posted by freeswimmingfish View Post
I decided that I wanted to keep the front doors as 6x9 components (hoping for a punchier mid bass), Focal has a 6x9 component set, so that worked out too.
The LCQ-1 has separate 6 band EQs for both front and rear channels and a third 5 band EQ for the sub channel, So I should be able to tame the speakers as needed. I plan to use a spectrum analyzer and an SPL meter to get it as close as I can.
Here is what I am getting:
Stealthbox $580
Focal ISS 690 6x9 component $250
Focal IS 650 6.5 coax $130
Total $960
Not bad for under a grand!

So, the "best" 3 channels to sum for an accurate 20-20k full range signal is front tweeters, front door mid woofers and sub?
Not using the rear door at all? I was thinking the rear door was the "only" full range signal and then the tweeters and sub would cover the rest of the high & low.
Any idea what the wire colors are for the front tweeters out of the factory amp?[/SIZE][/COLOR][/FONT]
Greetings,

The use of the 6x9 for the front to gain a punchier is a matter of personal taste. In my experience, the 6.5 gives a faster and tighter mid bass punch, of course the better the driver the more dynamics you will get. Let the sub do it's thing by going down low. Many of the audiophile 2 channel stereo speakers for the home will have multiple drivers for the concentrated mid bass punch.

Their is some interesting opinions and I would advise you to read these interesting threads.

6x9 or 6.5"?

Which 6x9's?

As a fellow audiophile, here is some interesting reading on the JGC factory DSP unit. This will help you determine which route you want to take.

Factory Frequency Response

In all honesty, based upon the information you have supplied, you will not be happy with the OEM center and rears. The speakers are not suitable for the application, in addition, the surround DSP is just a simple matrix that does not help the situation. At the same token, their have been others here that have reported they kept the OEM DSP and upgraded the center and rear pillars with proper power and made a huge difference. A proper surround system is indeed enjoyable to listen to. In our case, you do have to pump money into to the GC in order to achieve this feat.

Therefore, you might want to consider the traditional front/rear/sub. Unless you want to upgrade components over a period of time. It took me over 2 1/2 years before I did the complete gut and it was worth it.

Take your time, do your research and ask questions. The worse thing is to spend money on stuff you do not need now that you can not use in the future.

Best for now.
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Old 07-19-2014, 06:27 PM
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Re: Audio upgrade advise

I keep going back to the Polk MM's. As I said before, I had DB650's in an older GC and in a JKU and was really happy with them.
What are the thoughts of this setup:
Stealthbox $580
Polk MM6501 125wRMS 2.7Ω component front
MM651 100wRMS 2.7Ω coax rear
$355 for both sets
Total $935
Is there any advantage to using a 6x9 to 6.5 adapter or make my own from ply or MDF?
Also still looking for the wire color for tweets in the doors??
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:51 AM
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Re: Audio upgrade advise

Quote:
Originally Posted by freeswimmingfish View Post
I keep going back to the Polk MM's. As I said before, I had DB650's in an older GC and in a JKU and was really happy with them.
What are the thoughts of this setup:
Stealthbox $580
Polk MM6501 125wRMS 2.7Ω component front
MM651 100wRMS 2.7Ω coax rear
$355 for both sets
Total $935
Is there any advantage to using a 6x9 to 6.5 adapter or make my own from ply or MDF?
Also still looking for the wire color for tweets in the doors??
Greetings,

I had Polk's once in my Maxima a long time ago, I found them to be very good. I still believe the tweeter is made for them under Polk's specs by Vifa. Vifa makes drivers for entry to mid level audiophile home audio drivers. On the MM651, If you are keeping the D pillars on the factory system, set the passive crossover to -3 on the tweeter. This will help them blend in better.

Any advantage between a custom or an adapter plate, non in my opinion other than the cost. The key is to but something between the driver and the plate to reduce noise vibration. The process is known as de-coupling. This could be rubber, silicone, etc...

Did you check the following:

http://www.wk2jeeps.com/audio/2012_WK_audio_wiring.pdf

Best for now.
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Old 07-20-2014, 02:34 PM
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Re: Audio upgrade advise

Stealthbox and Polk MM6501 & MM651 ordered.
Now I wait.
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Old 07-21-2014, 02:33 PM
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Re: Audio upgrade advise

From this thread:
Wk2 Audio Wiring Schematics
I got this:
Front Left Tweeters- The tweeter wires are gray/orange - gray/yellow at the amplifier, white 22 pin plug, pins 20 and 9.

Front Right Tweeters- The tweeter wires are gray/dk. green - gray/lt. green at the amplifier, white 22 pin plug, pins 19 and 8.

Does anyone know if this is still accurate?
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Old 07-21-2014, 02:36 PM
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Re: Audio upgrade advise

I think I will start a dedicated thread for this
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