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Old 08-12-2015, 06:50 PM
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How To - Dash Cam Install - Blackvue 650 2-Channel

Hey all,

I searched around and couldn’t find a hardwire install guide, so I figured I would make one in hopes of helping out others. I’ll start off by saying that I’m not very mechanically inclined…I can take anything apart, but getting it back together is another story! In terms of overall difficulty, I would rate this a 5/10.

The first thing you want to do is mount the front camera to the windshield. This is easily accomplished, just make sure the camera is oriented the correct way (power on right side), and place it as far up as you can, so the lens is as close to the windshield as possible. Please note that the kit comes with an extra double-sided adhesive strip, in case you mess up. 









2. The next thing you’ll want to do is take apart the glove box. The “tray” on top comes out by collapsing the “legs” on both sides. Simply pull that out. The next step is to remove the glove box itself. There are TWO screws on top with rubber grommets over them. Lastly, there are FOUR screws on the bottom which need to be removed. Once those are removed, you should be able to collapse the two “feet” on the inside, and the box will fall. When the box falls, just lift up and un-hinge it, then pull it out.

In this picture you can see where the screws were located, they have the copper backing.





3. Next you’ll want to locate a grommet that is behind the glove box on the firewall. 



[Glove Box View]











[Engine Bay View]











I took an awl and punched a hole in the center. Feed the power cable through the grommet.

4. This step is time consuming and a bit frustrating… now you need to run the power cable through the grommet (the end that connects to the dash cam) and through the firewall (cigarette lighter end). Once you have that complete, you’ll need to push the grommet through the firewall and use needle-nose pliers to “wiggle” the grommet back in place. 

Note* I found it best to “tie” the power cable (cigarette end) to the hood-hinge in the engine bay BEFORE pulling the cable back through the grommet. If you don’t do this, you risk having the cable come back through the firewall.







5. Once the grommet is in place you can proceed to the engine bay and fuse box. You’ll need to hook up the Multi-Safer or Power Magic Pro now. In this case, I’m using the Multi-Safer. To hook this up, you’ll need to find a constant source of power for the red wire, a ground, and a fuse which is only hot while the ignition is activated. I used the following, because they met the requirements and had nothing to do with the safety equipment in the vehicle.



Red - F67 (Bluetooth)

Yellow - F96 (Rear Seat Heater)





You’ll also note that I ground at a nearby bolt on the left side of the engine bay. 







You can also see that I lifted up the weather stripping and ran the rest of the wires attached to the Multi-Safer to the cowl area. This is an attempt to block as much heat as possible. If the unit overheats, it will automatically shut off, and I want to use parking mode, so I’m trying to avoid that!



6. Plug in the cigarette lighter and Multi-Safer unit. Zip tie any loose wires and stick some double-sided tape on the Multi-Safer. I chose to mount it to the side of the engine bay, facing up, so that I could still adjust the settings if necessary. 







7. This step is also a little frustrating and time consuming, but no where near as much as going through the firewall! Once the engine bay stuff is hooked up, you’ll need to pull back the weather stripping and side-trim panels (if necessary) to run the power cable from the camera to the glove-box area. I HIGHLY recommend you attach the power cable to the camera BEFORE running the cables through the weather stripping.

Start at the camera and tuck the cable up to the center of the rear-view mirror and around to the passenger side, around the A-pillar to the weather stripping on the door, and down the side inside the glove box area. 

Before you go any further, you’ll want to hook up the rear camera (if applicable). Revert back to step 1 and repeat. Once the camera is secure, start with the power cable at the FRONT camera. Plug it in, and repeat the process of running the cable to the passenger weather stripping. Instead of going down to the glove box, keep running the cable all the way to the lift-gate.

Once at the lift-gate, you’ll notice an overlap in the plastic, I took a long flat screwdriver and “fished” the cable through, but an actual fishing tape will work (or anything really). Pull the cable through the lift-gate (from inside to outside).


Next you’ll want to run the cable to the rear camera and hook it up. Rid the excess cable by tucking it up under the plastic cover. I used two supplied clips to secure the cable and to keep it neat. Note that you will have to open and close the lift-gate to ensure that there is enough slack in the cable. After doing that, I noticed that the metal under the weather stripping was chewing at the wires. I added some electrical tape at the “pinch point” to try and prevent this. You can also go through the grommet if you wish, however that’s more involved and permanent.

















8. Everything should now be hooked up and powered. All you need to do is put the weather stripping back in place and re-secure the glove box. I chose to put my excess wires in the glove box area with a zip-tie to keep it neat. If you did it right, there should be virtually no wires showing.

I hope this guide helps someone! It’s a PITA that Jeep put the fuse box in the engine bay, but obviously with a bit of work a clean install can be accomplished.

Special thanks to Alex at www.blackboxmycar.com I have no affiliation with him, however due to his video tutorials and positive feedback, I decided to order from him. He also agreed to switch the PMP to a Multi-Safer instead. Prompt emails, great customer service.

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  #2  
Old 08-12-2015, 07:32 PM
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Re: How To - Dash Cam Install - Blackvue 650 2-Channel

like i said in another post no easy firewall grommet in a RHD model, also i would have taken the time to pop the rear trims in the rear window and concealed the wiring in the rubber grommets/sleeves. glovebox removal is also a little easier than your explanation on a rhd model unclip the wire retainer from the side, then squeeze the top corners of the glovebox inward to clear the stopping tabs, it then all falls out.
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Old 08-13-2015, 04:43 AM
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Re: How To - Dash Cam Install - Blackvue 650 2-Channel

When I hook mine up I'm going to put my Power Magic Pro in with the battery under the drivers seat and not worry about the firewall job.........hopefully
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:28 AM
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Re: How To - Dash Cam Install - Blackvue 650 2-Channel

As per Nicjak, take the time and frustration to run the rear wire through the grommet/sleeve and head liner.

Pics from ChrisA



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Old 08-13-2015, 01:18 PM
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Re: How To - Dash Cam Install - Blackvue 650 2-Channel

Quote:
Originally Posted by SNUKE View Post
As per Nicjak, take the time and frustration to run the rear wire through the grommet/sleeve and head liner.
+1 on running the wire through the grommet in the tailgate - not that difficult, and it's certainly not permanent. I recently upgraded to a Blackvue 750 dual camera dashcam and hid the rear cam wiring in the headliner all the way to the back and then ran it through one of the grommets. And check the link in my sig for instructions on hardwiring a dashcam (or radar detector; etc.) if you don't need constant power.
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Old 08-13-2015, 02:11 PM
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Re: How To - Dash Cam Install - Blackvue 650 2-Channel

Quote:
Originally Posted by polizei View Post
Hey all,

I searched around and couldn’t find a hardwire install guide, so I figured I would make one in hopes of helping out others. I’ll start off by saying that I’m not very mechanically inclined…I can take anything apart, but getting it back together is another story! In terms of overall difficulty, I would rate this a 5/10.

The first thing you want to do is mount the front camera to the windshield. This is easily accomplished, just make sure the camera is oriented the correct way (power on right side), and place it as far up as you can, so the lens is as close to the windshield as possible. Please note that the kit comes with an extra double-sided adhesive strip, in case you mess up. 









2. The next thing you’ll want to do is take apart the glove box. The “tray” on top comes out by collapsing the “legs” on both sides. Simply pull that out. The next step is to remove the glove box itself. There are TWO screws on top with rubber grommets over them. Lastly, there are FOUR screws on the bottom which need to be removed. Once those are removed, you should be able to collapse the two “feet” on the inside, and the box will fall. When the box falls, just lift up and un-hinge it, then pull it out.

In this picture you can see where the screws were located, they have the copper backing.





3. Next you’ll want to locate a grommet that is behind the glove box on the firewall. 



[Glove Box View]











[Engine Bay View]











I took an awl and punched a hole in the center. Feed the power cable through the grommet.

4. This step is time consuming and a bit frustrating… now you need to run the power cable through the grommet (the end that connects to the dash cam) and through the firewall (cigarette lighter end). Once you have that complete, you’ll need to push the grommet through the firewall and use needle-nose pliers to “wiggle” the grommet back in place. 

Note* I found it best to “tie” the power cable (cigarette end) to the hood-hinge in the engine bay BEFORE pulling the cable back through the grommet. If you don’t do this, you risk having the cable come back through the firewall.







5. Once the grommet is in place you can proceed to the engine bay and fuse box. You’ll need to hook up the Multi-Safer or Power Magic Pro now. In this case, I’m using the Multi-Safer. To hook this up, you’ll need to find a constant source of power for the red wire, a ground, and a fuse which is only hot while the ignition is activated. I used the following, because they met the requirements and had nothing to do with the safety equipment in the vehicle.



Red - F67 (Bluetooth)

Yellow - F96 (Rear Seat Heater)





You’ll also note that I ground at a nearby bolt on the left side of the engine bay. 







You can also see that I lifted up the weather stripping and ran the rest of the wires attached to the Multi-Safer to the cowl area. This is an attempt to block as much heat as possible. If the unit overheats, it will automatically shut off, and I want to use parking mode, so I’m trying to avoid that!



6. Plug in the cigarette lighter and Multi-Safer unit. Zip tie any loose wires and stick some double-sided tape on the Multi-Safer. I chose to mount it to the side of the engine bay, facing up, so that I could still adjust the settings if necessary. 







7. This step is also a little frustrating and time consuming, but no where near as much as going through the firewall! Once the engine bay stuff is hooked up, you’ll need to pull back the weather stripping and side-trim panels (if necessary) to run the power cable from the camera to the glove-box area. I HIGHLY recommend you attach the power cable to the camera BEFORE running the cables through the weather stripping.

Start at the camera and tuck the cable up to the center of the rear-view mirror and around to the passenger side, around the A-pillar to the weather stripping on the door, and down the side inside the glove box area. 

Before you go any further, you’ll want to hook up the rear camera (if applicable). Revert back to step 1 and repeat. Once the camera is secure, start with the power cable at the FRONT camera. Plug it in, and repeat the process of running the cable to the passenger weather stripping. Instead of going down to the glove box, keep running the cable all the way to the lift-gate.

Once at the lift-gate, you’ll notice an overlap in the plastic, I took a long flat screwdriver and “fished” the cable through, but an actual fishing tape will work (or anything really). Pull the cable through the lift-gate (from inside to outside).


Next you’ll want to run the cable to the rear camera and hook it up. Rid the excess cable by tucking it up under the plastic cover. I used two supplied clips to secure the cable and to keep it neat. Note that you will have to open and close the lift-gate to ensure that there is enough slack in the cable. After doing that, I noticed that the metal under the weather stripping was chewing at the wires. I added some electrical tape at the “pinch point” to try and prevent this. You can also go through the grommet if you wish, however that’s more involved and permanent.

















8. Everything should now be hooked up and powered. All you need to do is put the weather stripping back in place and re-secure the glove box. I chose to put my excess wires in the glove box area with a zip-tie to keep it neat. If you did it right, there should be virtually no wires showing.

I hope this guide helps someone! It’s a PITA that Jeep put the fuse box in the engine bay, but obviously with a bit of work a clean install can be accomplished.

Special thanks to Alex at www.blackboxmycar.com I have no affiliation with him, however due to his video tutorials and positive feedback, I decided to order from him. He also agreed to switch the PMP to a Multi-Safer instead. Prompt emails, great customer service.
Many thanks,
I ordered one from Amazon, should get it next week, its a different model, never had one before but lately Ive been thinking about it, so as soon as I get it I'll read again your post in order to help me with the installation.
Rgds.
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  #7  
Old 08-13-2015, 02:24 PM
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Re: How To - Dash Cam Install - Blackvue 650 2-Channel

That seems like a lot of work for switched power. I just tapped off the 12v plug in the center cubby for my garmin. It's switched power and took all of 5 minutes to do the connections. What does the box you hooked up do differently?
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Old 08-13-2015, 05:09 PM
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Re: How To - Dash Cam Install - Blackvue 650 2-Channel

I really dont see the need for a power majic pro unless your car is sitting for over a week at a time. Power draw during park is so little mine has been fine left for upto 6days. Driving every few days and it will be fine. It definitely wont drain a battery overnight.
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Old 08-13-2015, 05:33 PM
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Re: How To - Dash Cam Install - Blackvue 650 2-Channel

Should have just saved yourself the hassle and get the power from your rear view mirror.

Instead of using a 2 channel system. I'm just going to use 2 different devices. I'm looking for a 12v ignition switch in the back. Anyone know a good spot to tap into?
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Old 08-13-2015, 05:57 PM
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Re: How To - Dash Cam Install - Blackvue 650 2-Channel

Using the Multi-Safer, you need to hook up a constant and a non-constant that is activated by the ignition switch (and a ground). You can't just plug it in and be done with it. That said, it was my choice to use the Multi-Safer (it was free with the kit anyway), you certainly don't have to use it. I personally like the reassurance that my battery won't be drained, while the camera is on constantly.

My goal was to help people with a general install guide. Personal preference on running a monitoring system, extra battery, camera choices, etc. wasn't the point of doing this guide. I just want to make that clear! I looked for a hardwire guide and couldn't find one, nothing less, nothing more.

Nikon, the Multi-Safer allows the camera to record while in park mode and monitor the battery while doing so. The system will shut off the camera completely if it reaches 11.8v. While it doesn't affect our vehicles, it also prevents the camera from completely shutting off on stop/go equip vehicles.
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:48 PM
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Re: How To - Dash Cam Install - Blackvue 650 2-Channel

One thing you want to check about your rear camera. You may want to move it to where it's within the wipers cleaning radius.
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Old 08-14-2015, 04:36 AM
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Re: How To - Dash Cam Install - Blackvue 650 2-Channel

Quote:
Originally Posted by polizei View Post
Using the Multi-Safer, you need to hook up a constant and a non-constant that is activated by the ignition switch (and a ground). You can't just plug it in and be done with it. That said, it was my choice to use the Multi-Safer (it was free with the kit anyway), you certainly don't have to use it. I personally like the reassurance that my battery won't be drained, while the camera is on constantly.

My goal was to help people with a general install guide. Personal preference on running a monitoring system, extra battery, camera choices, etc. wasn't the point of doing this guide. I just want to make that clear! I looked for a hardwire guide and couldn't find one, nothing less, nothing more.

Nikon, the Multi-Safer allows the camera to record while in park mode and monitor the battery while doing so. The system will shut off the camera completely if it reaches 11.8v. While it doesn't affect our vehicles, it also prevents the camera from completely shutting off on stop/go equip vehicles.
I didn't say thanks yesterday, so um THANKS today for the install guide I really appreciate it.
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