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Installation of OEM Camera in 2014 Laredo

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2014
48K views 113 replies 34 participants last post by  dromano424 
#1 ·
Its been a long time coming, but here is the final write up of my install of the camera in my 2014 Laredo. Sorry there are not more pictures, but if you need clarification feel free to PM me. If you are local, feel free to come check mine out or I am happy to help anyone who wants to do this in the Boston metro area.
Before I get too deep, it would not be fair for me to not encourage everyone to read through the write up done by Jeepguy-1980 on his Ram web page here.
The part number needed for this is based on your color WK2. For the Granite like mine you will only need one Mopar piece, part number 1WD55LAUAI. I bought it from WeRMopar.com for $632.97. It comes fully painted, includes the camera, applique, all necessary pins and hardware, the JEEP nameplate, the wiring harness and the piece of mind that you have an OEM part.
You could probably do this exactly the same way with an aftermarket camera, but it would never be quite as stock looking. I apologize that i did not take pictures of the install of the panel, but its 10 nuts to remove it and you must remove the tail lights, 4 bolts each, from the tailgate to get it off.

I opted to install the OEM camera without the factory guide lines. If you want those to show up as well you only need to run one additional wire from Pin 4 of the “Lamp-License” connector to the BCM. I didn’t research which pin this would go to on the BCM as I opted to not bother.
So first of all you need to get the wire that Lassen Loop - Looptronix, who sourced this when trying to make the OEM Camera Install kit for the Dodge Ram, provided me. At a minimum, you will need 3 wires with pins to connect to the factory radio harness, which is what I custom ordered from him. Here is the website. The three wires fit pins 31, 32, and 33 of the factory harness:


The order of the pins is as follows:
Pin 31: Green – Camera Signal
Pin 32: Red – Camera Return
Pin 33: White – Camera Shield
Once you have installed that you will need to route the wire behind the stereo and down through one side of the truck along the floor, tucking it under the trim pieces, but careful not to pinch or cut the wire.


I opted to run down the passenger side of the car as you can see in my pictures, then up through the cargo wall and through the factory harness paths hidden behind the trim panel on the back of the headliner.



Once in the trunk with the trim panel removed, there will be the factory connection which only comes with an Orange and *********** wire in location 9 and a Black Ground in location 8:

The factory Camera will add wires as follows:

Pin 1: Run Relay Control – This needs to be connected to a power source that is on when in reverse. I used the positive wire from the Reverse light on the trunk.

Pin 2: Camera Return – This wire is White on the camera lead and connects to the Red wire from the stereo
Pin 3: Camera Signal – The wire is green and connects to the green wire from the stereo
Pin 4: BCM Connection (I left this off)
Pin 5: Camera Shield – This is the unwrapped wire in the camera lead and connects to the white wire from the stereo
Pin 6: Ground – This is the black wire and I again used the reverse light to connect this to a ground wire

Once everything is connected and eaither shrink wrapped or taped and zip-tied in place you are ready to put the interior pieces back in place.


Again, I apologize as I know this was not as detailed as some would like, but I hope it covers at least the basics and I am happy to help anyone who needs it. I am going on Thursday to have the BCM reflashed so I will post pics of the display once that is complete.
 
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#4 ·
No, I have the RA3. I guess they stopped offering this in the Laredo as you cant build it with the 18" wheel and 8.4" screen package anymore. I have been told this will work on the 5" screen too though so dont rule it out.


Jeepguy.... I am supposed to go get it reflashed tomorrow morning, but we got creamed with snow today and I have been slammed with work so i am not sure if I will be able to do it before next week. I will post up a confirmation as soon as I do though.
 
#5 · (Edited)
IT WORKED!!!....with a couple of small glitches. The camera works and is pretty clear. The fishbowl effect is there, but its still WAY better than my wife's CR-V factory camera so I am pretty happy. I feel like the angle is a little too vertical, but sat in a new Limited at the dealer and it was the same, so not a mistake, just the way the factory camera is setup.

The glitches seem to be in the connections. As I put the truck in reverse and roll over bumps something is loose, screen freezes, blurs and then goes Blue. A couple more bumps and it comes back. I am going to recheck all of my wire connections, probably go ahead and solder and shrink wrap all of them now that I have confirmed they work. I am also going to pull the factory stereo harness again and check that the pins are snugly in place as the loose connection could be there.

As soon as this is all done I will post some pics again of the final product.... All in all though, very pleased. Thanks again JeepGuy for all of your support and guidance!
 
#7 ·
The dealership doesn't have any objection to flashing your computer. Flashing the computer has no impact on the warranty. The wiring may, but odds are they didn't even look at it.

I've sold plenty of harnesses for the Ram and have even sold them to a number of dealerships. That said, I would recommend making a passthrough harness instead of using posi-taps. I'm not a fan of splicing factory wiring, which is why I went through the lengths I did to design the harness I did for the Ram.
 
#9 ·
not only is the dealership open to doing this, they have started offering this as a service with the factory camera like I used. This will not have any impact on warranty at all.
I ended up replacing the T-tap setup with some more secure soldering and shrink wrapping of the individual wires which is much cleaner and safer. I am still seeing some glitches when I put it into reverse. Even when the car is not moving and nothing is really shaking, the screen still blinks and turns blue and then goes back to working fine. A friend suggested I may need to look for a cleaner ground point then what I used so I am going to give that a shot.
 
#13 ·
Dan I think the trouble you are having is due to your power source.

I am guessing the wiring in the 2011 is not much different for the back up camera circuit.

In the 2011-2013 back up camera kit there are five connections just like you have made with yours.

The main thing is the power to the camera is from the (Pink wire with green stripe) RUN/START signal.

So the camera get energized when you start the car.


By powering the camera from the back up light circuit. The camera must be doing a self diagnostic procedure everytime you shift into reverse because it is only engergized when you activate the reverse light circuit.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I'm interested in doing this mod immediately after buying a new '14 Altitude model. It is a crime that the backup camera isn't part of the Altitude package, but that's a whole different topic...

I've got two questions:

1. Is the Flash code the same for the Grand Cherokee (XAC) as it is for the Dodge RAM ?

2. If I wanted to do this for the lowest possible cost, is there any reason why I can't just mount a 480x640 CCD camera to the existing tailgate trim panel, connect the camera power wire to the +12V feed for the backup lights, and then run the Signal, Return, and Shield wires directly from the camera to the Radio Harness Pins 31, 32, 322 respectively ?

Thanks,

--AGLAT
 
#11 ·
1. Is the Flash code the same for the Grand Cherokee (XAC) as it is for the Dodge RAM ?

2. If I wanted to do this for the lowest possible cost, is there any reason why I can't just mount a 480x640 CCD camera to the existing tailgate trim panel, connect the camera power wire to the +12V feed for the backup lights, and then run the Signal, Return, and Shield wires directly from the camera to the Radio Harness Pins 31, 32, 322 respectively ?

Thanks,

--AGLAT
yes, the sales code is XAC. You could absolutely use a generic camera, but the goal for me was to keep this looking as factory as possible.
 
#12 ·
Been looking for this answer. I don't have a Jeep yet, but I will try this if I can. I am more of an engine guy, not a wiring and panel guy.

Also, when I asked my dealer, he said he could get one installed for me, but I doubted him on whether he actually could or not. I only wanted to know how to do it from internet, with the attempt to save money. So the $632 is the total price?

Even this "jimmy rig" is still plenty expensive just for a back up camera on a vehicle that doesn't even need it. I have drove in several SUV's and CUV's just like that CR-V/Rogues and Explorers/Pathfinders of the world, and the GC is by far the best when it comes to visual seeing out ones shoulders.
 
#14 ·
When i added a back up camera to my wife's Jetta, I also used +12v and ground from the reverse lights. This resulted an image with a lot of noise, so i put a multimeter and i got about 7v~10v at the lights.
Then I used a SPST relay, with the reverse light being my signal and I used the 12V from the trunk's cigarette lighter socket with a fuse in line. I also found a bolt in near the trunk, -scraped- the paint and put the ground there = CLEAR PICTURE.


This thread encouraged me to do this retrofit. I got the OEM assembly -the bar with camera- last week and I have been trying to reach the custom harness company for awhile. Today I finally spoke with the guy and he is willing to start manufacturing the WK2 harnesses. He wants to make them as OEM as possible, without the need to drill and splice any wires, just like the RAM harnesses.

Since he doen't have a WK2, he will need someone that lives in northern VA to meet him and he will start the production. If someone here would like to volunteer, PM me and we can coordinate this.
 
#15 ·
I'd hook up the guide lines.
They are awesome for backing up to a trailer hitch.

Just turn the wheel so centerline stays on the ball. It works perfect.

Congrats on the install. You. Must have wanted it bad.

Wanna write up adding Adaptive Cruise Control next :)

Oh and blind spot monitoring while you're at it.
 
#16 ·
Today I installed the OEM camera. To my surprise, the harness in my Laredo is different and it has all wires in it. I still need to take it to the dealer and add the sales code.

This is the plug coming from the car to the tailgate.
White Light Wire Yellow Cable


A close up
Cable


Now with the camera installed
Wire Yellow Cable Technology Electronic device


So I ordered a cable from Lassen but it seems that I won't need it.

I'll post an update after the dealer adds the code.


Sent from my iPhone using JeepGarage
 
#17 · (Edited)
Today I installed the OEM camera. To my surprise, the harness in my Laredo is different and it has all wires in it. I still need to take it to the dealer and add the sales code.
So you are saying it's plug and play minus the head unit activation? Which options do you have on your Laredo? Is it the US model? Also what is the build date of your Jeep? How easy is it to access the area where the harness would be? I'd really like to check my Altitude to see if I have the wiring harness in the back already as well.
 
#21 · (Edited)
I went out to my Altitude during lunch and snapped some pics.

There are two connectors at the top of the tailgate but I dont know if either of them are the ones needed for the backup camera. They both seemed to be plugged in.




Just by looking at your top left harness I'm 99.9% sure that your harness at the lift gate is complete. What you should remove is the trunk lid cover, aka lift gate cover. To do so, with the trunk open, looking up at the plastic cover where two round lights are, that's the whole cover that you will need to remove. If you don't have the correct tools, use a small flat head but be careful no to scratch the paint. With a small flat head, carefully pry the cover out. It takes a little force, just be careful not to scratch the paint or slide the flat head along the plastic. The whole thing comes off, then you will disconnect the 2 lights and you will see the plug.



Google wk2jeeps, and there you will find the "interior trim removal" guide.
 
#22 · (Edited)
I was looking on my phone and found more pictures.

This is the plug the OEM Camera and license plate lights plug. I took this picture before I installed the camera. You can see only 2 wires coming from the license plate lights plugging to the harness. Note that you are looking at the rear wiper motor on top and the power lift gate latch on the bottom and the harness/plug in the middle.
Auto part Vehicle Automotive exterior Car Bumper


This is my top "chassis" harness like at your picture. They seem to have the same amount of wires on the left side. That's the side that goes to the camera. Also, looking back at the original post install, I don't think he has the power lift gate. I'm starting to think if you have the power lift gate, then you should have the "complete" harness.
Vehicle Auto part Car Hood Automotive exterior


Finally, this is what took the most time to remove, because I was afraid to break something. It's that top trim cover to see these 2 harnesses from the picture above. The top part comes out/pop towards the back of the vehicle, and the sides, pop towards the opposite side. There's no need to remove this trim, unless you need to run wires like the original post had to do.

Light Sky Night Automotive exterior Vehicle door


I hope I explained clearly.


Sent from my iPhone using JeepGarage
 
#24 · (Edited)
Pulled the lift gate apart tonight and my plug looks like mrkonow's.
Since I have an Altitude they don't make a tailgate bar with a camera and a black Jeep logo I had to improvise.
First I removed the tail light bar by popping out the 2 outside tabs and unscrewing the eight 10mm nuts.
The painted outside of the tail gate bar is held to the black frame that houses the wiring with tabs and epoxy. I carefully unsnapped the tabs and pulled the two pieces apart. I'm now waiting for the used donor light bar w/camera that I purchased for 1/3 of what a new part cost. I will separate those pieces and add the black frame w/camera to my Billet Silver Altitude tailgate bar. Lastly to the dealer to activate.

Pictures to come. :thumbsup:
 
#29 ·
So I have some updates, I still haven't taken it to the dealer to have it flashed.

Today I removed my radio looking for the camera wires and didn't find any. So It seems that I have the wiring at lift gate and it ends somewhere in the chassis. I'll need more time to see if I can trace those wires.

Now Id like to look at the kit.

Dan could you please post this kit part number?


Sent from my iPhone using JeepGarage
 
#30 · (Edited)
Installed the camera last night and headed to the dealer this morning so they can download the option for Parkview Backup Camera.

Unfortunately all I get when I put it in reverse is a blue screen.
Looks like there's a piece of the puzzle still missing. :(

Next step is to pull the radio and see if there are any connections for the camera that may not be plugged in or are just not included with the harness. I find it hard to believe the option exists in the RA3 but there's no way to retrofit.
 
#34 ·
I think you are 90% done.

Most likely, we will need to add the 3 pins from the back of the radio with the harness all the way back of the car, to the top connector that goes to the lift gate. This wire will carry the video.

The next step is to find if the pink/yellow wire at the camera's connector is actually getting +12v when ACC is on. If no power already present, we would need to run an ACC 12v lead to it. I was thinking to tap into the trunk's cigarette lighter socket, that is after i tested and find out that it isn't 12v constant.
Then we find out about the ground wire.

Also, MOFSTEEL, how much force applied to separate the 2 parts "epoxied" on the camera bar and how did you approach to start separating? And then, what did you use to glue them back together?
 
#35 · (Edited)
Start with a tab on one side and work your way across. When your three tabs in you'll need to use a little force to spread the two pieces apart before getting to next tab.

I used 3M emblem and plastic adhesive that I picked up at Autozone. Together with the tabs it made a bond as strong or stronger than OEM.

As far as completing the connection I may wait for your write up. I don't want to start shooting in the dark with electrical components.
 
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