Jeep Garage  - Jeep Forum banner

JL Audio Stealthbox and Amp Install - Detailed Photos and Resources

36K views 30 replies 11 participants last post by  Tomas 
#1 · (Edited)
JL Audio Stealthbox and Amp Install - Detailed Photos and Resources

I wanted to share my experience installing a JL Audio Stealthbox in my 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with the community as my first post. There was a lot of very helpful information I found to help me along – special thanks to (dirk41mvp) and (solodogg) for their very helpful write ups.

After doing additional research I found out a few things that may help others along. Keep in mind that my application may be different since I have the base audio system, so I did not start with an existing factory sub enclosure and my system is amplified by the 8.4 NAV system head unit instead of a factory amplifier (I believe).

Depending on the amplifier you choose, you will not need a Line Output Converter (LOC). I went with the JL Audio XD600/1v2 which allowed me to tap into post amplified speaker wires. This not only provided me with an audio signal, but the amplifier also did not need a remote wire as signal sensing is built into the amp. I noticed that some individuals were hooking up a LOC with their JL Audio XD amplified which is not necessary with certain amps. The JL XD series amp also has a line out so that I can tether another amplifier off of it down the road if I wish. Since I was just installing a sub, I brought in one signal line instead of two, so it is only receiving a mono signal input.

If I want to hook up another amp for a future speaker upgrades for the rest of the system, then I will need to tap into a left speaker wire which would run off of the other side of the Jeep. In this case I may choose another location to tap into – probably closer to the center console. Likewise if you are hooking up a larger amp to power other speakers in your Jeep, you will need to tap into both left and right speaker wires to ensure that you pull in a full stereo signal to the amplifier.

My placement for the base control knob is a bit different than what I found during my research as I did not want to drill a hole anywhere in the paneling or center console. I was hoping to use one of the blank buttons available in my console for the location, but this is not possible as there is a circuit board running along the back of all buttons even if they are not actively used with the Jeep’s configuration. What is cool about that is that there is a way to enable a blank button to work by messing around with the electrical board – which I may do for something like an accessory light switch down the road: http://www.jeepgarage.org/f155/switches-to-fit-factory-holes-46401-2.html

Lastly, I had some trouble aligning the brackets for the Stealthbox and there was an issue with bolting the tub back in after installing the box. It took some tweaking but still is not perfect – which may be because of how my individual stealthbox was formed. Also, I broke one of the mounting tabs behind the passenger side rear quarter panel when removing the paneling. It broke off much too easy as the plastic looked thin at the base. Because of this I would recommend that you buy a trim removal set like the one I linked below from Amazon. It will also help for future projects no doubt.

The sub produces a very impressive amount of bass for the size and sounds good with the other factory speakers. I initially bought the JL Audio XD300/1v2 to power the stealthbox, but from the advice of the place that I bought my sub I returned the XD300 and went with the XD600. The sub can handle 500 watts so the XD300 would have limited what it was capable of. I also got the amp on sale at Crutchfield for $389 which was a steal. For configuring the settings of the amp – I recommend to follow the amp manual’s suggestions for optimal performance. I used a RCA Y-Adapter to bring in a stronger signal and set the Input Voltage Range on the amp to ‘High’. The sound output was much cleaner than if I used the ‘Low’ setting, which I had previously done before I added the RCA Y-Adapter.

Anyway, I did a lot of research to set things up the way I wanted and I hope that my write up will help make the project quicker and easier for somebody else.

COMPONENTS:

JL Audio Stealthbox SB-J-GCHWK2/10W3v3/BK - $574.95 w/ free shipping to 48 states (no Hawaii, Alaska, or Puerto Rico)
JL AUDIO SB-J-GCHWK2/10W3v3/BK (94508) – Dynamic Autosound
Manual
http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/SB_J_GCHWK2_MAN.pdf?1305783857

JL Audio XD600/1v2 600W x 1 Subwoofer Amplifer
JL Audio XD600/1v2 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com
Manual
http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/XD600_1v2_MAN.pdf?1398143028

JL Audio HD-RLC HD Amplifier Remote Level Controller
JL Audio HD-RLC Remote level controller for select JL Audio amplifiers at Crutchfield.com

Rockford Fosgate RFK4 Amplifier Wiring Kit 4 gauge Power
Rockford Fosgate RFK4 4-gauge amplifier power wiring kit at Crutchfield.com

Dynamat 10425 Xtreme 4 Sq. Ft., 1 Sheet
Dynamat Xtreme Wedge Pack 1 sheet, 4 square feet at Crutchfield.com

JL Audio XD-CLRAIC2-SW 2-channel Speaker Wire to RCA Adapter
JL Audio XD-CLRAIC2-SW 2-channel speaker output converter (bare speaker wires to male RCAs) at Crutchfield.com

Stinger SPW512BK per foot 12 Gauge Speaker Wire Black
Stinger PRO Series Speaker Wire (12 Gauge) Priced per foot at Crutchfield.com

Posi-Products Connector Kit 6 pieces Posi-Tap 16-18 Gauge
Posi-Products™ Wire Connectors 6 tap connectors for 16- to 18-gauge wire — tap into wire without cutting or stripping at Crutchfield.com

Mediabridge ULTRA Series RCA Y-Adapter (8 Feet) - 1-Male to 2-Male for Digital Audio or Subwoofer - Dual Shielded with RCA to RCA Gold-Plated Connectors - Black
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCQSW3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

TCBunny® Portable 4Pcs Auto Car Radio Door Clip Panel Trim Dash Audio Removal Installer Pry Tool
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SDFIWGS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


REFERENCES

Installation:

http://www.jeepgarage.org/f155/2014-gc-limited-sub-upgrade-jl-stealthbox-90868.html

http://www.jeepgarage.org/f155/jl-audio-stealthbox-install-58550.html

http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/SB_J_GCHWK2_MAN.pdf?1305783857


Audio wiring diagram and schematics:

http://www.jeepgarage.org/f155/wk2-audio-wiring-schematics-23231.html#post414994

http://www.wk2jeeps.com/audio/2012_WK_audio_wiring.pdf

WK2Jeeps.com - 2011-2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee menu page

http://www.wk2jeeps.com/audio/2014_wk_base_audio_diagram.pdf


2014 Grand Cherokee - Interior trim removal (PDF)

http://www.wk2jeeps.com/interior/2014_wk2_interior_trim_removal_001.pdf


PROCEDURE

The purchased components:


Removal of the spare and tub in rear:


Dynamat Installed:



Stealthbox Intalled:
I had to make slight adjustments to the brackets in order to get them to slide onto the threaded studs. It took a couple times to put everything together and take back apart. Even then the tub was slightly pushed to the drivers side of the car and I had a hard time lining up the bold holes to reinstall the tub.


Line Input Signal Tap:
Since I did not have a factory amp in the rear quarter paneling of My Jeep, I chose to tap into the wiring harness running along the passenger side of the car – where the amp would be installed. The wires I used were the Rear Right speaker wires - DG/LG and DG/GY in the wiring diagram (Dark Green/Light Green and Dark Green/Gray). I removed the panel between the front and rear doors and pulled back the carpet to get to the wiring.


Signal Wires Tapped:


Continued in next post.....
 

Attachments

See less See more
14
#2 ·
Bass Control Knob Placement:
For the location I decided to place it next to the shifter for ease of access and it looked good aesthetically aligned with the shifter shaft. I also did not want to drill into the paneling or center console – I think it came out pretty good.


Bass Control Knob Wire:
I partially disassembled the center console to run the wire between the plastic seems and over to the passenger side of the car where the amp will be installed.


3M Command strip was the perfect method to apply the bass control knob to the plastic paneling. If I ever want to move the knob, the strip will easily peel away and leaves no residue. It was also the exact width of the control knob square base!



The knob wire hides nicely in the panel seem and there is a hardly noticeable gap


All of the wiring for the amp is hooked up. Extra wire is stored nicely in the extra space available in the battery compartment next to the battery.


Amp install complete.
 

Attachments

#3 ·
Greetings,

Nice install and setup.

Enjoy it.

Best for now.:)
 
#4 ·
Glad you found our posts helpful. Looks like you got it set up well. How well does the sub addition compliment the entry level speaker package? As for the bass control knob, it looks like we have the same unit, the location where I placed mine allowed the actual control box to be sunken behind the panel to where only the knob was exposed. This necessitated a hole to be drilled but it's a very small hole. If removed later in life I would simply fill the hole with epoxy mixed with a black plastic dye... It would be extremely difficult to ever see it was there.


Sent from my iPad using JeepGarage
 
#7 · (Edited)
How well does the sub addition compliment the entry level speaker package?
The system sounds great now that it is complemented with the deep, rich bass of the Stealthbox. The bass that was produced by the 6x9 front speakers wasn't bad on their own. Now that I have what I consider to be the perfect amount of bass, I notice that the mid and high range is a bit drowned out even after tweaking the factory equalizer, but for now I am very happy with my set up. In the future I may add another amp and components up front.

I forgot to add, the reason I decided to use an independent LOC was for quality of signal. Coming off an already amplified stereo signal, it was clear that a quality LOC would be needed in concert with this set up. I didn't trust this to a built in as they generally tend to be a lower grade converter thrown in to fill a spec sheet.
From what I am hearing from my sub, the quality sounds very good and if there is a difference I'm not sure it would be audible through a subwoofer. It could be that the difference may be more noticeable when you are using a signal for high and mid range applications. In this case adding a dedicated LOC would be an insurance of sorts. I was looking for ways to save money and simplify the install with less components - which I guess comes down to personal preference.

You have a very nice install, thanks for helping to pave the way.

808WK2

2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited - 3.0 EcoDiesel
Off Road Adventure II - QuadraTrac/QuadraLift/Trail Rated
 
#5 ·
I forgot to add, the reason I decided to use an independent LOC was for quality of signal. Coming off an already amplified stereo signal, it was clear that a quality LOC would be needed in concert with this set up. I didn't trust this to a built in as they generally tend to be a lower grade converter thrown in to fill a spec sheet.


Sent from my iPad using JeepGarage
 
#6 ·
Nice build!!!

That is a very good price on the JL stealth box!!!

Wasn't really thinking about going the stealth box route because of the price but you got me thinking about it now

How is the customer service from the online place you bought the stealthbox from? did it ship fast?
 
#8 · (Edited)
Thanks k-mu! I agree the price is great based on the link I shared, but one thing I did not mention in my write up is that I ended up going with a local dealer for the Stealthbox.

When I contacted Dynamicautosound I found out that with shipping to Hawaii the Stealthbox was going to cost approximately what you find online commonly ~ $699. They did come down on their price and offered me $650 which included shipping to Hawaii - but I was worried about problems returning it if there was a defect. I contacted a local reseller and they were able to get me the box for $640 shipped with a JL sale going on. If there were any problems then I would not have to worry about return shipping and I could just go to the local shop.

If I lived in one of the contiguous 48 states then I would have definitely purchased from Dynamicautosound due to the price and free shipping. When I called them the representative was very helpful and informative and willing to work with me on the shipping. I do not know much about how reputable they are but I do know that they are based in California.

808WK2

2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited - 3.0 EcoDiesel
Off Road Adventure II - QuadraTrac/QuadraLift/Trail Rated
 
#9 ·
If you want a good space to install the bass control knob, the center storage bin is a good place. I didn't want to drill into anything that would be expensive to replace if I sold the Jeep at any point. The bin is like $40.00 and easy to swap out.

Vehicle Car Automotive exterior Auto part
 
#10 ·
Good call with the small bin below the shifter. That would have been an option for me if I did not have my QuadraTrac controls located there.

I think that the location I chose is ideal as I can rest my hand on the shifter and my finger and thumb can reach the knob naturally to tweak the base gain depending on the song/music. Initially I thought that it would stick out and look strange, but in blends in nicely.

The photo below is not from my install, just grabbed it from the internet to show the QuadraTrac controls where I believe your bin is located.

 

Attachments

#11 ·
Greeting,

It is a shame that the new AudioControl stuff is not out yet. What they need to develop also is a 6 or 5 channel DSP amp devoted only for the voice drivers (no sub for the 5th channel). This would find tune the front channels. Any product gives you a lot flexablitly from AudioControl.

AudioControl Announces New DSP Matrix-Processors & Full-Range Amplifier Product Launches at CES 2016 - AudioControl

For Surround Sound enthusiast, as of now their is not a DSP on the market to take the OE signals and preserve the steering logic unless you do a complete gut job and go with an aftermarket unit such as the Alpine or if you can find the JBL MS-8. Then ideally, a second DSP unit would take of the signal processing if you are looking for detail fine tuning of xover, etc.

An DSP to connect onto the OE system to preserve the steering logic would require cleaning the factory presets of each individual channels and that would require a sophisticated computer within before the signal processing stage takes care of the crossover points, time delay, eq and etc.

Best for now.:)
 
#12 ·
Impressive stuff with the AudioControl amplifiers. I did not realize they had integrated their DSP technology with amplification capabilities. I guess it is the way to go if you want don't want multiple components and if you want to ensure that utmost quality is retained.

Looks like you will be paying a premium price for it, although it is not that much more expensive than the JL XD600/1v2 that I purchased:

AudioControl Epicenter® 600 Mono subwoofer amplifier with bass processor — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm at Crutchfield.com
 
#13 ·
Impressive stuff with the AudioControl amplifiers. I did not realize they had integrated their DSP technology with amplification capabilities. I guess it is the way to go if you want don't want multiple components and if you want to ensure that utmost quality is retained.
Greetings,

To combat the car manufactures making not making it easy for the classic aftermarket hedadunit replacement, the aftermarket has been going with the DSP/Amp combo. Right now from mid-end to hi=end aftermarket companies are taking this approach. Even AudioControl has finally woke up and heading in this direction.

For example, if look at Crutchfield, ABT or any of the major authorized online resellers, you will see that between the amps and processors sections, their are a lot choose from in the DSP/AMP category.

As I said in a previous post, i hope they do make a DSP unit that could retain the each individual channel and be able to signal process it for personal fine tuning for a surround sound setup. Now that I have mine going for way over 2 years, I do not think I could have nothing else but a surround sound system.

Best for now.:)
 
#15 ·
Greetings,

Completely understandable.

As time goes bye, with the stock you can indeed advanced to what you consider a premium system with just the speaker locations provided. Plus the fact you can take even further down the road if you want to advance it to a sound system. I did not do my major gut until 2 1/2 years later after I picked up the WK2.

More importantly, enjoy the Grand Cherokee.

Best for now.:)
 
#17 ·
Absolutely no electrical issues or problems with battery draw.

From Crutchfield website:
"JL Audio's XD600/1v2 amp packs a wallop far beyond what you'd expect from something so small. This amp plays bass with true fidelity and impressive impact, without straining your car's electrical system. "
 
#18 ·
this was a great thread, gave me some insight to help me with my project.

I just wanted to comment on LOC deal. Its interesting that they designed it so you can use RCA connectors and i guess connect bare ends to the high level signal. Does the amp have a built in converter to clean the signal up? I only ask because i had a JL E2150 that allowed both low and high level signals but had different jacks for each. The high level sound quality was atrocious. I eventually got a tsunami LOC which cleaned up the signal and solved my problem.

Why didn't you sum the signal off both channels to make sure that you maintained a full signal?
 
#19 · (Edited)
Does the amp have a built in converter to clean the signal up? I only ask because i had a JL E2150 that allowed both low and high level signals but had different jacks for each. The high level sound quality was atrocious. I eventually got a tsunami LOC which cleaned up the signal and solved my problem.

Why didn't you sum the signal off both channels to make sure that you maintained a full signal?
The amp does have a built in converter. I only needed one channel since I was only powering a sub at this time and did not require a stereo signal input. Others who are powering a full range system prefer and have installed a dedicated LOC to ensure a clean signal going out.

When I am ready for Phase 2 of my audio installation I will definitely need to tap into a left channel signal and I may pull the left/right signal from directly behind the Uconnect head unit. I also may consider incorporating a dedicated LOC - not sure at this time.
 
#20 ·
Bought a stealthbox from a forum member and should have it this week. I sold the Jl audio JX1000/1 amp I had laying around as it would be to powerful for the 10W3.

I see a few forum members that went with the JL XD300 and the JL XD600. I want to get the most out of the sub. Is the 300 enough or should i go with the 600?
 
#21 ·
I want to get the most out of the sub. Is the 300 enough or should i go with the 600?
The sub is rated to handle 500W so the 300W amp would limit the sub's potential. To get the most out of the JL Stealthbox go with the XD600/1v2. I am very happy with the sub's performance paired with that amp.
 
#22 · (Edited)
The w3v2'c optimal power range is around 250-300 watts RMS, anything beyond that can cause damage. Even JL's website shows that 500+ watts will void the warranty.

The XD300 running at 2ohm mono would be more than adequate. Not sure why you would wanna put anymore power to this particular sub, let alone spend more money on an amp that's not needed.

Sent from my iPhone using JeepGarage
 
#24 ·
The w3v2'c optimal power range is around 250-300 watts RMS, anything beyond that can cause damage. Even JL's website shows that 500+ watts will void the warranty.e
You are correct antsjeep. Technically JL recommends the XD300 in their documentation for this speaker.....let's just say that I like to live in the DANGER ZONE! :lol:

 

Attachments

#23 ·
Does anyone know where i can get a deal on the stealthbox, controller, and amp??? like a forum discount or group buy ???
 
#25 ·
I got a great deal on a JX500 so went with that. Will be installing after X mas.

My setup will be pretty much the same as 808WK2 but i will be using a different amp and the LC2i.

My question is do i need to tap both rear speakers or just the one since all im hooking up is a sub. and if so on the L2Ci should it go to the right or left speaker input or does it not matter?
 
#29 ·
I'd always tap both channels just to make sure you get a good aggregate signal. If you start using higher frequency signal like 80hz plus on a crossover you start running the chance of getting an uneven response. I'm more crossing my t's and dotting my I's when I say this.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Just got 2019 GC with 9-speaker "premium" audio. Did not know that in current market - the quantity of speakers defines the value of audio system.

Last time I did something like this was a $5000 overhaul in Mazda 3 10 years ago. That for components only for 1kW+ HiFi system, where sealed sub was only 300W. no labor, since did all the job by myself including making my own custom-fit sub-woofer enclosure,"dynamat-ing" the all body panels, including roof and hood). Which was very stupid thing to do, considering that it was like 25% of car cost at that time.

This time will try to limit myself by sub+mono amp update and maybe door speakers replacement with Focal.

So for woofer mod discussed in this thread few years ago my current amp of choice is either Alpine MRV-M500 or Rockford Fosgate R500X1D.
Leaning towards Alpine, seems better built inside. Also I've got its service manual and can read its internal topology (see attached pdf).

I think some talks here about superiority of external LOC are doubtful.
The simplest LOC is basically just a resistor divider circuitry, sometimes with a capacitor for some basic LPF filtering:
221116


Some are more "advanced" and have gain adjustment controls but require battery connection, provides some better isolation by using transformers.
But eventually just the same resistor divider (see some near RCA-outputs),:
221117


The problem of generic LOC is that it produces high signal source impedance (meaning it can not source enough current into amplifier if its input stage is poorly designed and has low impedance).

Voltage is indeed reduced to the required levels for RCA inputs of the amplifier. But its current sourcing is limited by resistors. It should not be a problem, since a generic RCA input should have large enough input impedance (looks like it is around 20kOhm for MRV-M500). In general - to get a good signal transition the source impedance must be at least 10 times less than impedance of amplifier inputs. So that means - LOC should use resistors with nominals of few hundreds of Ohms. But usually it is in range of tens kilo-ohms. Since this allows to use cheap small resistors that can not handle high power dissipation.

Here is an example of ~10x attenuating LOC:

221119


So this will have source impedance dictated by R1 (10 kOhms).
Say speaker inputs voltage is 14V, this LOC will reduce it to 1.4V (which is close nominal RCA line inputs of most amplifier). 14V/11kOhm = 1mA allows to use tiny low cost resistors. Will produce 17mW of heat dissipation.

But source impedance of the LOC with the amplifier's RCA input impedance form additional voltage divider. Attenuating the signal seen by amplifier even further.
Not that bad though - 10k of LOC with 20k of MRV-M500 will make it drop by additional 33%.

So that will be seen by amplifiers input buffer stage as 0.9V. More than enough for most good amps (say Alpine MRV-M500 specs it at 0.15V).
Even the cheapest subwoofer amp you can get today should have RCA input impedance above 10kOhm annd sensitivity above 0.2V.

But that is not it. I am done talking about voltage levels and they almost always Ok in most of the setups.
There problems come with EMI form other car electronic components. On my practice I've been picking up spark-plugs noise when using cheap RCA cables coming from head unit into audio processor. Having external LOC placed far away from the amp and connected together by cheap-ass poorly shielded RCA cables is a BIG NO NO!

But the amplifier's built-in LOC reduces EMI interference issue to a minimum - strong speaker-level signal is attenuated by internal resistor-divider which is placed right next to the input buffer stage. RCA inputs are linked inside the amp in-between resistor dividers and input buffer stage. Here how it looks for Alpine MRV-M500 (got to re-draw the schematic in attached PDF on piece of paper for better understanding):
221118


Using such thing as LC2i processor is much better in comparison to simple LOC.
It is the same resistor-divider but buffered (in other words - preamplified, to have low source impedance). All in a single shielded case.

But there are NO benefit in LC2I if your amplifier has built-in speaker-level inputs. Even worse - you just adding one more unnecessary "buffer stage" (you already have a input buffer stage at RCA input of your amp). So LC2i in this scenario just introduces additional noise produced by its internal electronic components. That is not that big to be noticed, spec-ed at 110dB SNR and 13V suggests around 50 micro-volts of noise. There is much larger EMI pickup by speaker wires going all around your car. But anyway - why would you sped $100 for a thing you don't really need?

Also, a lot of guys spending money on LC2i, sometimes just to avoid routing ACC signal for amplifier TurnOn input.
LC2i can output TurnOn signal for an amplifier by presence of signal on its speaker-level inputs.
But guess what - MRV-M500 do have this built-in too! In PDF-schematic there are REMOTESENSE traces from speaker-level input lines (page 8 ) to so called REMOTE_SENSE_BLOCK (page 10). Basically this works as transistor-based switch controlled by low-pass filter with a very low cut-off frequency (below 1Hz, 8.2kOhm with 2x 10uF results into 0.3 sec rise time.) Means it will take about 0.3 sec of minimum-required (low volume) signal at speaker-level input to turn the amp ON. And a tricky circuitry implemented with a diode to increase turn off time to over 1 second (of signal momentarily dropped bellow threshold).

What should also be also taken care of - is using proper quality power wires and have them as short as possible. At 500W RMS power I am thinking about adding bypass (some call it "stiffening") capacitor (e.g. True 1 Farad from NVX). Having it as close as possible to amplifier inputs allows to save some money on cheap power supply wiring from the battery (e.g. use CCA instead of OFC cables). Ideal setup if you have a capacitor with its inputs located few inches away from the amplifier and the amplifier itself as close as possible to sub-woofer (meaning - short speaker wires as well). Since any additional resistance introduced by speaker wire and screw terminals affects your maximum power output. Your watts are partially dissipated into heat.

Example:
3 ft of cheap CCA 16-ga wire will give 0.02 Ohm resistance. With 2Ohm speaker coil and 0.02Ohm in series you have (again) a resistor divider with 100x ratio. In other words - 1% of amplifiers power is dissipated into the speaker wires.
So, is it worth saving 5W out of 500W by spending $100 on a super cool OFC wiring kit - you decide! But I would also worry more that 5W on 3ft of length might get quite warm. Anyway - that is a worst case scanario - take at least 10ga wire for 500W sub.

If also choosing between buying super-capacitor or more expensive OFC wiring kit - I would chose the capacitor.
Because its role is exactly to mitigate (bypass) poor power supply setup.
 

Attachments

#31 ·
Hello, first of all thanks a lot for your JL stealthbox installation information.

I`d like to go same route adding the Sub to base 6 speaker, I already upgraded to Focal speakers but lacking the Sub deep bass, sadly I`m a complete newbie in car audio :)

Can any of you audio knowledgeable help me a little? I`m not sure how the tapped rear speaker signal wires are connected to AMP, you mentioned you have used Y-cable, on picture I can see the 2 ends of the Y-cable is connected to AMP, the other end is connected to one of the tapped signal wires or both (as only one cale it going to AMP imput slots, th Y-cable with its both ends)?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top