Just wanted to take a minute and post some pics from my Stealthbox install today. Took about an hour start to finish to get the enclosure in the Jeep, and about 2 hours to get the amp installed under the drivers seat and wires ran. Also found a decent place to hide the sub level control while doing all of this.
I would highly reccomend this setup to anyone that hasn't heard one. It sounds great with everything from country to bass heavy rap music. Everything aside from the XD300/1 and stealthbox is stock.
well worth the price tag. I had a 10wx in there before this, and it left me wanting more. This thing filled that void very well, even my wife (who didn't want a sub installed) told me how much better it sounded. I was impressed.
Finally got the chance to throw in a bit of rap, and crank it up tonight. HIGHLY IMPRESSED! Found a few rattles along the way too! This thing will definitely handle anything you throw at it.
I emailed a local audio installer that does fabrication stuff. I was quoted 450-500 for something like this including sub (i showed him the link). I think I will just save the pennies and get the real thing when I can.
Okay then . . . from what I've pieced together from this thread, we could have a pretty solid build (still using stock head unit and speakers with added 5 channel amp and subwoofer at this time) with:
JL Audio Stealthbox ($650)
Alpine PDX v9. Class D five channel for stock speakers and sub ($410)
Alpine Rux Knob ($24)
Low line converter ??? (brand and model#)
Amp kit/RCA cables ??? (brand and model#)
???
Any input from you guys on which converter and Amp kit (plus any other needed components) which would finalize this build with Stealthbox and PDX 9?
Ideally, I want to order ALL components (including the wiring used) and drop off at the Auto Audio installers (already set this plan up with a local installer) so I just pay them for labor. Not trying to be cheap, it is just that the quotes on components from a couple installers are way more bucks then what you can purchase on your own via the internet.
So, any members here want to offer a purchase list to comlete the build? Thanks!
Don't waste your money of a line output converter. I ran an Audiocontrol LC7i, and while it did work and did do its job, I noticed between a certain Hz range there was dropout, meaning that music and sounds between this certain range was missing.
Since I was already 1500 deep into this, I just splurged and bought a Kenwood Excelon 890HD double din head unit. And boy, did this system wake up. I have full 12 band equalizer control, digital timing alignment, balance, fade, you can set distances to speakers and such to get the best sound. It was so worth the extra money. All in all I was in around 2500 and that was including replacement speakers with Focals.
Thanks for sharing your experience and build. The line output converter (LOC) would be employed so I could still use the stock head unit and speakers, albeit the added JL Stealthbox (speakers will be upgraded down the road). So essentially what you are recommending is to replace the head unit. Thanks for talking prices too -- but $1500 to $2500 is a solid bump, and let's face it, with audio systems you can always upgrade and improve = more $$$. That must some head unit subbie!
The 2014 JGC OEM head unit doesn't have output ports for the aftermarket amp correct? If no converter is used and I stick with the stock head unit, are there any other options for running the 5 channel amp?
I drive a 2012 so I can't compare to the 2014, all I do know is that everything is intergrated into the 8.4 system, meaning it cannot be replaced anyways. In that case, I would recommend the MS-8.
Getting my ducks in a row for installing a sub in my 2013 GC. Can any of yooze guys tell me if there is a remote turn on connection on the factory unit (730)? It is my current plan to take the speaker leads off the factory sub with a speaker level converter and power for the amp direct from the battery.
Sheesh! Back when I was a kid this was so simple...yank out the factory crap, put in a good Alpine or Kenwood am/fm tape player ...maybe an amp, some speakers and BAM! Best stereo on the block! But now I'm grown up, the cars are new, wiring gets more complicated with every car I buy, and it's just not as eady to crawl around in the footwell anymore.
The factory stereos are never quite up to par, even when you get the best they offer. Thier approach to quality stereo is to install 10 - 20 speakers in the damn car. If they could just use decent electronics, 2 or 4 GOOD speakers and a GOOD subwoofer we'd all be better off!
I've installed two speaker aftermarket systems that sounded better than this 10 speaker system in the GC.
Phew! Glad I got that off my chest....It's been there for years! Thanks!
P.S. Next rant will be about this SIRIUS system....cd quality my ass! But that's next time
With the LOC, the stock head unit will still be used. The stock speakers will be kept for now as well -- albeit getting a nice bump in juice from the amp. Down the road I might put some nice German speakers in to replace OEM. I will post pics once the Stealthbox is professionally installed.
With the LOC, the stock head unit will still be used. The stock speakers will be kept for now as well -- albeit getting a nice bump in juice from the amp. Down the road I might put some nice German speakers in to replace OEM. I will post pics once the Stealthbox is professionally installed.
Wow, that looks like a nice setup. I still have the single 12" w/ amp out of my last suv, but after seeing this I'm seriously considering getting rid of it and saving up. Looks like it will fit the 2014's. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
Regarding installing a sub on a Jeep that doesn't currently have one, is everything there but the hardware or does all the wiring need to be added as well? For instance pulling the radio, etc.
Wow, that looks like a nice setup. I still have the single 12" w/ amp out of my last suv, but after seeing this I'm seriously considering getting rid of it and saving up. Looks like it will fit the 2014's. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
Regarding installing a sub on a Jeep that doesn't currently have one, is everything there but the hardware or does all the wiring need to be added as well? For instance pulling the radio, etc.
Yes. The JL Stealthbox for 2011+ Jeep Grand Cherokees will fit in your 2014. Moreover, the JL Stealthbox can be installed in a 2014 JGC that does not currently have a sub installed. AND . . . you do not need to pull your radio (head unit). MNwk2GC, I can tell you this with confidence because this is the exact install situation that I had -- I was the guinea pig!
If you guys are just planning to install a sub, you can go with an LC2i. It's a little cheaper and will be fine for just a sub. You could even use a very cheap/simple LOC around the $20 range. Just wont have the processing that the LCXi will have.
The LC2i sums 2 signals and you can output to your sub amp. From what I've read in other posts, it'd make sense to sum the front 6x9 signal as well as the subwoofer signal. That'll enable you to get the lowest frequencies from the sub, and up to 80hz from the front door signal. Then set your lowpass filter on your new amp to 80hz.
But again, if you plan to amp your door speakers eventually, something that sums and outputs all frequency ranges, the LC6i or similar will suit you better.
I already upgraded all door speakers to Focals, and will just be adding a stealthbox shortly. Will be fine for my needs.
cvbanc,
Thanks for the link. You have a very cool build going. Keep up the good work and updates! It's very informative. I looked through the stealth box instructions and it is pretty involved... and that's just the box install. Then there's all the wiring on top of it. Totally understand why you had a pro complete the work.
All,
This is why I was hoping that the wiring was already in place and a only a sub/amp combo would need to be put in. It doesn't seem like that's the case though, so turn on, signal, power, and ground wiring would need to be run. However, with an amp like this:
it appears that you could just send left and right rear door speaker signals to it without a LOC and it would also turn on when it sees that signal. If true that makes the install much easier. I'm relatively new to this audio stuff so please correct me if I'm wrong.
There's got to be an easy place to ground back there, but where are people pulling power from? I was hoping I could avoid running a cable from the battery all the way to the back.
Hell yeah! I also thank you for giving me more help than you realize!
As for the sub, I was thinking about taking signal from the existing sub...hoping it's low pass is about right.
You can tap the signals coming right off the factory amp on the left rear quarter. There are wiring diagrams on here somewhere telling you what is what
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