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  #1237  
Old 07-06-2015, 09:54 PM
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Re: new lockpick for the 8,4 uconnect, 99% software

Quote:
Originally Posted by ssgunner View Post
...Still get the blue screen lol since I'm still pending install. Will need to look for an auto electrician to assist. I think the firewall pass through is my issue.
I'm not a big auto electrician- just somewhat handy around the house.

It's pretty simple to install yourself.

The harness just goes inline with the factory harness - there's youtube videos how to pull the radio (at least for a Durango which i assume is basically the same)

Then you probably need power and ground for the camera (I added a license plate cam myself since i'm a no drill kind of guy and couldn't find a decent spot for the included camera on my Durango) I did in my case. The fusebox and ground are right on the passanger side of the engine bay. I just got an add a fuse thingig like this (not 100% postive that's the right one for the fuses we have)- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._AdxMvbBR4HCEV and then the ground lug comes off with a ratchet and you can put the ground wire under it.

That just leaves the rca wire back from the camera to the harness. Seems on most D's and GC's there's an unused knockout in the passenger foot well. Get a flashlight. Pull the felt "roof" from the wheel well- there's just a bunch of those plastic 'christmas tree' trim rivet things which go right back if you pry out carefully so not to mar the faces. Once the cover is off take a flashlight and look in the upper right corner on the firewall there's likely an unused rubber grommet/knockout that you can pull right out. Open the hood and behind the fuse box/ground post is a little compartment between the two 'fire walls' and the knockout comes out right in there- so run the wire from the cam to that compartment- just follow all the harnesses and use some zip ties. Some slice the plug with an X and push the wire through and then reinstall and goo up some silicone. I think i found a g grommet on amazon that worked if my memory serves. Just run the wire up in the wheel well to behind the radio and plug it in to the harness.

BAMM you're done and just saved a trip to the shop and a few bucks.

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  #1238  
Old 07-07-2015, 12:06 AM
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Re: new lockpick for the 8,4 uconnect, 99% software

So the overall concensus is that this works with no issues and is easy to put back to stock for updates of the radio system? If so I think I would need the basic as I don't intend to install another camera , don't really have a need for it.

I had a coastal lockpick in my srt8 , and I had the odd issues with it where it would start to act a little funky so I would unplug it, as I had the box in my glove compartment for easy access. Once I unplugged it for 30 seconds and plugged it back in it would be fine for months before it would act up again.
I just don't want any issues with the new 2014.
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  #1239  
Old 07-07-2015, 12:11 AM
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Re: new lockpick for the 8,4 uconnect, 99% software

Thanks Michaelk for pointing me at the two front cam options. The wording isn't great, and I obviously wasn't paying attention! It now works as I expected, and in the process I saw the rear Jeep cam on while driving - very useful when the rear of the car is full of stuff.
Thanks,
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  #1240  
Old 07-07-2015, 01:23 AM
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Re: new lockpick for the 8,4 uconnect, 99% software

Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelk View Post
I'm not a big auto electrician- just somewhat handy around the house.

It's pretty simple to install yourself.

The harness just goes inline with the factory harness - there's youtube videos how to pull the radio (at least for a Durango which i assume is basically the same)

Then you probably need power and ground for the camera (I added a license plate cam myself since i'm a no drill kind of guy and couldn't find a decent spot for the included camera on my Durango) I did in my case. The fusebox and ground are right on the passanger side of the engine bay. I just got an add a fuse thingig like this (not 100% postive that's the right one for the fuses we have)- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._AdxMvbBR4HCEV and then the ground lug comes off with a ratchet and you can put the ground wire under it.

That just leaves the rca wire back from the camera to the harness. Seems on most D's and GC's there's an unused knockout in the passenger foot well. Get a flashlight. Pull the felt "roof" from the wheel well- there's just a bunch of those plastic 'christmas tree' trim rivet things which go right back if you pry out carefully so not to mar the faces. Once the cover is off take a flashlight and look in the upper right corner on the firewall there's likely an unused rubber grommet/knockout that you can pull right out. Open the hood and behind the fuse box/ground post is a little compartment between the two 'fire walls' and the knockout comes out right in there- so run the wire from the cam to that compartment- just follow all the harnesses and use some zip ties. Some slice the plug with an X and push the wire through and then reinstall and goo up some silicone. I think i found a g grommet on amazon that worked if my memory serves. Just run the wire up in the wheel well to behind the radio and plug it in to the harness.

BAMM you're done and just saved a trip to the shop and a few bucks.
Bamm lol,well this is the detail info I was looking for. Will attempt to tackle this hopefully this weekend. That fuse tap used what was the purpose of that?
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  #1241  
Old 07-07-2015, 05:54 PM
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Re: new lockpick for the 8,4 uconnect, 99% software

Quote:
Originally Posted by ssgunner View Post
Bamm lol,well this is the detail info I was looking for. Will attempt to tackle this hopefully this weekend. That fuse tap used what was the purpose of that?
the fuse tap is so you can get power to the front cam. You could just tap into a 12v line anyplace- but along with a no drill kind of guy I'm a no splice kind of guy either. I dont like to splice into the factory wiring.

With the fuse tap you find an existing fuse slot (pick one that is on only with the car running) to tap into. Pull the existing fuse. Plug in the tap. The tap has 2 spaces for fuses- one is for the "old" circuit- you plug the old fuse in that spot and then that works to fuse the "old" circuit just as before.

Then there's a pigtail hanging out of the fuse tap- connect that to the positive wire from the camera. I think the one i linked has a crimp connector- i also use a bit of heat shrink tubing to protect it all- the fuse box has enough room that you can make the splice in the box to protect it from the elements- on mine at least there is a little slot by the jumper posts that i could sneak the wire out and still put the cover on.

Now plug a SMALL fuse into the second slot of the fuse tap- that protects the pigtail/camera circuit. It uses like no current so the smaller the fust the better.

If you want to undo then you just revese the steps and you still have all your factory wiring intact.

the only thing is the fuse box in my '14 Durango is chock full of new fangled fuses. They have all sorts of smaller sizes then previous generation cars. I wound up buying 2-3 different fuse taps before i found one the right (really small size). I actually bought on ebay but dont have a good link so I'm not 100% sure of the amazon link- i found that on another post or forum someplace.
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  #1242  
Old 07-07-2015, 05:56 PM
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Re: new lockpick for the 8,4 uconnect, 99% software

I moved my 730N RER from a 2009 to a 2013 which had only a 430.

Purchased the uconnect adapter cable from OEMautopartsco. That effectively bypasses the uconnect module in the car as the RER has uconnect built in.

Everything works fine including the factory mic and GPS but the steering wheel controls, specifically the phone and VR buttons do not activate the radio. The phone and VR button on the radio work correctly. Also the radio controls behind the steering wheel also work correctly. Its just the two uconnect buttons which worked when the 430 was installed.

Ive reset the battery and locked the car for 10 minutes before restarting. No change.

Any ideas of what this may be? Bad uconnect adapter cable?
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  #1243  
Old 07-07-2015, 07:39 PM
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Re: new lockpick for the 8,4 uconnect, 99% software

Installed this in my '15 for the past three months and no issues at all. I opted to install the apple tv along with the hdmi/composite converter. At first I installed an additional cigarette lighter socket behind the dash to feed power to a power inverter with 115v and usb power socket . Long story short I was getting a lot of interference on the screen and after checking each connection I discovered the culprit was the power inverter. I removed the inverter completely and plug the apple tv into the 115v in the back of the jeep and the hdmi/composite converter into the usb plug inside the cubby under the temp controls. Also with this I was unable to get sound even though everything was connected correctly so I have to use an aux audio cable and physically connect it to my aux jack to get sound. Pictures below.

*The white cord is from the converter box sound output to my aux input connector. Had to do this because was getting no sound. USB cord is power to the converter box.



*My Apple TV is on the floor of my passenger seat and plug into the back. I use velco to keep the wires tidy.



*That usb cable is just to power my phone, eventually will put in center console. And the thing plugged in is my apple tv.



*view of front camera installation. I actually had a shop run the cable for me because I didn't have the patience.





*view of apple tv



*view from front camera. Let me be the first to say that the front camera to me has been almost useless. It's probably the way I have it installed but to me it's useless because I almost never look at it while parking and sometimes it gets annoying coming on whenever you drop below 8mph.



*my apple tv remote parking stop




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  #1244  
Old 07-07-2015, 09:08 PM
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Re: new lockpick for the 8,4 uconnect, 99% software

Your front camera is aimed too high. I mounted mine so that it sticks out in front of the grill a bit and is aimed so the bottom of the picture shows the front bumper. This allows me to see what is directly in front of the vehicle for off-road and also as an assist while parking. I didn't use the included camera because I couldn't get it to fit the space well, but I used the same location as you, just on the outside of the grill.
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Old 07-07-2015, 10:11 PM
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Re: new lockpick for the 8,4 uconnect, 99% software

Quote:
Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
Thanks Michaelk for pointing me at the two front cam options. The wording isn't great, and I obviously wasn't paying attention! It now works as I expected, and in the process I saw the rear Jeep cam on while driving - very useful when the rear of the car is full of stuff.
Thanks,
Russell
My joy at the Jeep rear camera operating while moving forward was short lived. Turns out it switches off at about 20kph ( screen turns blue) although the front cam can now be left on.
Is this as intended, or have I (once again) missed something?
That camera is not really a worry, although I would have liked it, but the main reason I bought silver was to have the rear view camera on my trailer - installed as cargo-cam. I can't test that yet, not having the trailer. Can anyone confirm the cargo cam can be active regardless of speed?
Thanks,
Russell
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  #1246  
Old 07-08-2015, 04:53 AM
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Re: new lockpick for the 8,4 uconnect, 99% software

See their video about ParkPro, it shows cargo cam operating above 20Km/h, then switching to front below.

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  #1247  
Old 07-08-2015, 05:07 PM
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Re: new lockpick for the 8,4 uconnect, 99% software

Quote:
Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
My joy at the Jeep rear camera operating while moving forward was short lived. Turns out it switches off at about 20kph ( screen turns blue) although the front cam can now be left on.
Is this as intended, or have I (once again) missed something?
That camera is not really a worry, although I would have liked it, but the main reason I bought silver was to have the rear view camera on my trailer - installed as cargo-cam. I can't test that yet, not having the trailer. Can anyone confirm the cargo cam can be active regardless of speed?
Thanks,
Russell
the issue with rear camera is that FCA kills power to the stock rear camera at ~20mph. The front and cargo/trailer/whatever third intput you do will work as long as they are powered so you are good to go.

You have to dig through the bajillion pages- or probably just email customtronix for advice how to power the rear cam all the time. I'm not interested personally so i never paid attention but i think there MIGHT be a workaround. I think someone maybe figured out a wire to cut someplace or customronix is working on a patch or something- sorry i can't help anymore than that.
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Old 07-08-2015, 05:18 PM
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Re: new lockpick for the 8,4 uconnect, 99% software

Cutting a wire to the rear camera is not something to lightly consider. The first GC I had (for two days) had a problem with the rear camera which resulted in electrical problems with the steering wheel controls and the ability to modify the EVIC and set the UConnect options. The dealer replaced that vehicle after I returned it to the shop and they determined that it would need parts which weren't then available.
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