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Pac ap4-ch41

32K views 131 replies 18 participants last post by  My1stJGC 
#1 · (Edited)
#2 · (Edited)
wow!! that's going to make upgrading a whole lot easier. I wonder what happens with the center channel and rear surrounds in the Alpine system?
I'd assume they are summed into their respective channels, front and rear rca outs?

If that's the case i will consider doing a full system upgrade (5 channel amp + stealth box) sooner, rather than later ?


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#4 ·
Not sure, I used a JL Fix-82 to upgrade my system a few weeks ago. I left the center channel and rear sails on the factory amp and I'm using the factory volume control instead of the volume knob on the fix. I have NAV and CELL coming through my Front speakers and the center speaker. Honestly, I dont think the center speaker is really getting in the way of the rest of the upgraded system. I have a noise floor issue I have to work out that seems to be coming from the FIX but its not really that bothersome.

All that being said, when this solution comes out, it will be MUCH better than having to sum and De-equalize the signal and I hope to switch to this instead.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I just called their tech support and confirmed what i initially thought.

The center channel will be summed into the "front channel" and the rear surround will be summed into the "rear channel" RCA outputs. This unit will be good for anyone looking to run a basic F/R/S setup.

No ETA on the release :(


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#6 · (Edited)
Cool thanks for calling them, I emailed asking for a release ETA but hadn't heard back yet. At least your info tells us this is what alot of us are looking for! :) A basic F/R/S output with a flat response throughout the volume range will be awesome! The FIX is working well and doing what I need for now, but I'd much rather have this PAC device I think to feed to my JL TWK EQ because it will take the factory processing out of the mix.

Did they say whether or not this took the factory time alignment out? I'm assuming since this plugs into the HU side it does. I think all of that processing is done when the signal passes through the amp.

I'm also wondering if this has to be installed on the HU side, or if it can be installed just prior to the amp input. I'm hoping just prior to the amp input considering you have to go in there to splice into factory speaker wiring anyway. Doesnt seem to make sense to have you remove the HU just to pop this device in there.
 
#18 ·
sorry in advance for this long post. but I have a quick question for everyone....

I just purchased some new speakers for my 14 SRT w/ the Harmon Kardon upgrade.

I purchased some Hertz ML 280.3s for the front and rear tweeters, Hertz ML 1650.3s for the front door 6x9s (these are 6.5s so going to make them fit) and the rear door 6.5s woofers and Hertz MLCX 2 TW.3 passive crossovers for all 4 doors.

I am am considering changing the 2 3.5" mids on the front doors only, but may leave the HKs there, not sure yet. But I dont ever plan on changing the 3.5s in the dash and the rear d-pillars.

And will most likely be getting the JL Audio stealthbox, although going to leave the stock 10" sub for now.

Now my question is...do I need to buy this PAC adapter? Even if I have a DSP?

I do plan on getting a DSP, so as of now, I was just going to leave the stock amp alone, and let that power the stock speakers and sub that are staying in, and getting an aftermarket amp to power the Hertz and programing the DSP to match the factory HU.

Or would you suggest getting the PAC, getting rid of the stock amp, getting a big enough amp to power the stock speakers staying in and the Hertz speakers and skipping the DSP?

Back in the day it seemed much easier to upgrade the speakers and subs, but im not getting rid of the factory uconnect hu, and dont want to lose any of the features.

Any advice would be appreciated. thanks
 
#28 ·
Mine will be here this week as well. Got the TOSLINK adapter too.
Going to be running it to a Arc Audio PS8 DSP. Then using that to control my active 3way front stage with Hertz Mille tweets, mids and midbass and powering those with an Arc Audio XDi 1200.6. Also putting in an Audio Frog GB12D2 subwoofer powered by an Arc Audio XDi 1100.1 at 1 ohm.

....but I heard that we may have to leave the stock amplifier in the Jeep for the speakers to work properly. Is this true? Or can I get rid of the stock amp?
 
#29 ·
The explanation I got was this pac device is meant to work in parallel with the factory amp. The factory amp will still power any remaining speakers hooked to it and they must be disabled manually if desired. I guess you'll have to try disconnecting it yourself and get that answer.

I'm going to be using it to feed a JL TWK to my pdx-v9. Then my front focal components on passive crossovers, rear focal coaxials, and the JL stealthbox. Jury is out on whether I leave the center channel and rear tweets on the factory amp or disable them.
 
#34 ·
I asked if the factory amp could be removed if the AP4-CH41 was being used.

Quote from AAMP (PAC) support:
"No, it must remain in the chain with the inputs and CAN connected, but the outputs do not need to be connected to the speakers. In the future there may be an update for the AP4 to allow for the removal of the OEM amp."
 
#38 ·
Greetings,

It is a possibility since they indicated about the update in the future depending upon if it can be done.

Best for now.:)
 
#41 ·
Which SUCKS cause I just removed my amp to sell it to another forum member, now I have to reinstall it and refund the money [emoji35]. Idk why it has to stay in, it's basically going to just be sitting there since I'm removing every stock speaker and running my own dsp and amp.
 
#45 · (Edited)
It's not going to be as easy as you think going that route. I was a firm believer of using an AC summing device to try and get as many signals together to hopefully yield something close to a full range signal. This PAC module eliminates the guess work and on top of that maintains all factory integrated chimes, bluetooth calls, park sense alerts, nav prompts, etc...).

I mean this module does not really require much "tearing" of anything in the dash. Its a simple removal of the dash bezel (using both hands), 4 screws for the display screen and connecting the t harness in. That part should take maybe 5-10 minutes tops. Then running RCA's and a remote line to the rear. I guess for me, having 6+ years car audio experience under my belt makes this a run of the mill type of install.

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#47 ·
I am just upgrading the factory sub. I am not worried about the install time and whatnot I've done plenty of installs when I was younger as a car audio installer. Ive done it before in my 2011 and still have everything from that install. I don't need to spend a extra $150 on the pac adapter instead of a lc7i just to get the full range signal that my epicenter 1200 amp needs. If I decide later to do other speakers they are going to still run off factory amp. I don't mind the factory system I just want more bass


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#48 ·
Greetings,

A summing device is useful if you are upgrading just one location. For example, just the front door speakers and the sub in the Alpine Premium 9 speaker system. If you want a nice clean signal, then a device from JL Audio is the way to go. Otherwise, one of the AudioControl products will work.

However, whether you use the PAC, ADS or Metra before the amp device, this will give you the best starting point. You can not get any better than these devices unless you upgrade the OE headunit.

As member ANTSJEEP stated, "This PAC module eliminates the guess work and on top of that maintains all factory integrated chimes, bluetooth calls, park sense alerts, nav prompts, etc...)". Moreover, if you doing an advanced upgrade, these modules give you the cleanest full range signal that aftermarket equipment such as DSP and Amps that allow a superior sound reproduction to happen. You will be amazed what mid grade components will sound like. Forget about audiophile components.

Best for now.:)
 
#50 ·
Greetings,

To me a question is a question.

Using the PAC Harness as the example, look at instruction # 9 which pictures the wire connections.

http://www.pac-audio.com/downloads/ap4-ch41_instructions_020717.pdf

The output of the PAC goes into the next piece of equipment. This could be a DSP and then into the respected aftermarket amps.

Therefore, you need to run your new speaker wires out of the aftermarket amp to the speakers themselves. The factory amp has become null since you are using this harness.

Hope this helps.

Best for now.:)
 
#51 ·
In this thread it said with this unit the center is summed to fronts and rear surround to the rears. So how would those get connected to a amp. You've convinced me to get the adapter. My plan as of now is just upgrade sub. Later if I decide to would be audiocontrol's D-6.1200 6 ch dsp amp. Front stage summed and not run passive crossovers. Rears would use passive crossovers so that helps with the rear tweeters. But what about center channel? Don't run it?
 
#52 ·
Greetings,

With any before the amp harness device, you will loose all surround sound, which means the steering logic is gone as well. Thus your center channel speaker has no balance between the left/right channels, it is at 100% of both channels coming in when you splice them together. It is a full range speaker set according to crossover points and time delay.

IMHO, I would leave it out because it would upset the imaging quality for the front stage. If you wish to add a DSP latter, then you can bring back the center. For example, somebody here is now installing the ARC Audio PS-8 DSP, which is not a surround sound processor, but, in the advance mode it allows you center a center and balance it between the L/R channels.

Best for now.:)
 
#53 ·
Greetings,



With any before the amp harness device, you will loose all surround sound, which means the steering logic is gone as well. Thus your center channel speaker has no balance between the left/right channels, it is at 100% of both channels coming in when you splice them together. It is a full range speaker set according to crossover points and time delay.



IMHO, I would leave it out because it would upset the imaging quality for the front stage. If you wish to add a DSP latter, then you can bring back the center. For example, somebody here is now installing the ARC Audio PS-8 DSP, which is not a surround sound processor, but, in the advance mode it allows you center a center and balance it between the L/R channels.



Best for now.:)

Yeah I don't care if it doesn't get used in future amp install. But it should still work if everything but the sub is on factory amp. I won't notice it missing. Back when I did do car audio we had done a buddies f-150 with a center channel setup. If you played Michael jackson's thriller in the beginning you could hear him walk across the dash.
 
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