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Old 08-23-2012, 04:25 PM
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Question about amped output to sub.

First off, this is my first post! I picked up a '12 Overland about a month ago and so far it am pretty pleased. Despite a few quirks (remote start a/c) its been fantastic!

Now to the question..

I am in the midst of planning some mods for the overland and a sub upgrade is first on the list. I am going to junk the factory sub and box (if anyone wants it...) and i am going to get a fiberglass box built with a 10" sub (TBD).

It will be powered by an aftermarket amp. Now to supply the amp i plan on going the LOC route (or an amp with hi-level imputs). After reading a TON of this forum, it seems like the popular route to take. However i recently read a post that the internal amp cuts off 70hz-ish and bellow. This concerns me. The main reason i am planning on upgrading is to get the lows back.

Is this true? Does the factory amp cut the range to ALL speakers?

Would a PAC Line out or Lockpick be more appropriate to supply the factory amp?

Thanks in advance guys
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Old 08-23-2012, 04:42 PM
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Re: Question about amped output to sub.

If I were going that route, I'd use an LOC and connect it to the outputs of a rear door speaker, those are full range signals. Then use the crossover in the aftermarket amp.
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Old 08-23-2012, 04:58 PM
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Re: Question about amped output to sub.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ekaz View Post
If I were going that route, I'd use an LOC and connect it to the outputs of a rear door speaker, those are full range signals. Then use the crossover in the aftermarket amp.
I was thinking rear door or hatch speakers but historically, with the stereos i have installed, all speakers from the head unit or factory amp had the range cut off on the low end to prevent high volume low range distortion. It gives the customer the appearance of it being a premium sound system because its LOUD.

Im wondering if that is the case in this application.
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Old 08-23-2012, 05:49 PM
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Re: Question about amped output to sub.

So, is the system bi-amp'd or passively X'd-over (I always assumed passively x'd-over)?
You believe the sub may be rolled-off below 70hz?

If that is the case, then the Lockpick (if it does has full-range output) may be the best option. Will having no load (missing Sub) cause any problems with the factory amp?
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:35 PM
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Re: Question about amped output to sub.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tybalt39 View Post
So, is the system bi-amp'd or passively X'd-over (I always assumed passively x'd-over)?
You believe the sub may be rolled-off below 70hz?

If that is the case, then the Lockpick (if it does has full-range output) may be the best option. Will having no load (missing Sub) cause any problems with the factory amp?
I am assuming its actively x'd over at the amp or the head. AFAIK its just one amp for the whole system according to some schematics i looked over. I read a post on here that it rolled off heavily at around 70hz. Ill have to see if i can find the post. I know it sure sounds like it doesn't play much under 80hz.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:18 PM
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Re: Question about amped output to sub.

I tossed in a JL Audio Stealthbox. Pricey but worth every penny. They stocked it with a 10w3v3 and I am pretty amazed that it hits some really low notes. I still have the factory RES crap with a line out converter.
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Old 08-24-2012, 09:41 PM
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Re: Question about amped output to sub.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spike98 View Post
I am assuming its actively x'd over at the amp or the head. AFAIK its just one amp for the whole system according to some schematics i looked over. I read a post on here that it rolled off heavily at around 70hz. Ill have to see if i can find the post. I know it sure sounds like it doesn't play much under 80hz.
Greetings All,

The Alpine premium factory amp is a 7.1 DSP unit using Alpine's Euphony Surround Sound processor similar to the same concept that JBL/Harman uses in their Logic 7. The unit contains it's own crossover points and does bi-amp to the speakers. The 8 inch subwoofer works in conjunction with the front door speakers creating the front stage. The center signal is the sum of left and right channel of the front stage. To date, I have yet to come across any information on the crossover points or how the wattage is broken down. Other forum members have reported after taken out the front speakers, the magnet's were extremely light. Therefore, IMO the speaks do not need much power to push them and the majority of the power is devoted to the sub. Remember, Alpine has to work with the design spec issued by Chrysler.

Spike98, your assumption is correct that is an active system within the amp. My theory is the 6x9 is crossover even lower and has a low slope of 6 or 12 db to compensate for the lack luster performance of the sub.

Their are many ways to upgrade the system in order to solve your problem were to connect the subwoofer and to improve the overall quality of the sound if you do not want to scrape the entire system. I would upgrade of course starting with the sub (JL Audio's stealthbox does a wonderful job) and aftermarket amp to power the sub. However, I would also install a new 4 channel amp with a crossover unit/eq bulit-in or add a separate crossover/eq unit to power the front door speaks bi-amped. Which means I would connect the sub to the front stage by summing the signal from the sub and also all the front left and right channels. And, if you want later, you can change the front speakers to a better component system using the 6 1/2 speakers instead of the 6x9s in order to get true mid-bass punch and do not use the passive crossover since you be using the crossover/eq unit (speaker companies for example: Morel Hifi, Focal, Helix, Brax, Pioneer, Kicker, etc.). This method you can tune the system to way you like listening to your music or videos. This setup is most likely more than you want to spend, but it is worth in the sound improvement without spending for whole new system. The rest of the Alpine in the rear door and hatch area you can keep as the rear fill, it might sound right to you for your application. Down the road, you can kill the center channel speaker, replace it or keep the existing.

To sum the signals, I would suggest using the Audison Bit-Ten processor, it has the five channels needed and contains dsp unit to set the eq, time delay and crossover points. Or can get an all in one unit from Zapco Amps.

http://www.audison.eu/index.php?page=product&id=42

http://www.zapco.com/zapcodcseries.html



Next year, I going to scrape everything and start fresh.

Best for now.
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:50 PM
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Re: Question about amped output to sub.

Nice info!


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Old 08-29-2012, 07:24 PM
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Re: Question about amped output to sub.

...so can i diss connect the factory sub and add a amp and sub?
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:55 PM
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Re: Question about amped output to sub.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gt wk2 View Post
...so can i diss connect the factory sub and add a amp and sub?
Greetings,

Yes you can.

Make sure the new aftermarket amp that will drive the sub has hi-level input connections and if not make sure you purchase a converter. Simply connect the wires going into the existing sub by taking them out and then into new amp or converter.

Check thru the threads, many folks here have different ways they have added subs or change the existing sub and kept the enclosures. Their is on post that has a complete summary of what options are out there. If I find it or if somebody else can post it, it will be great. The most popular choice is to the JL Audio Sleathbox.

Best for now.
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Old 08-29-2012, 08:53 PM
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Re: Question about amped output to sub.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stJeepGC View Post
Greetings,

Yes you can.

Make sure the new aftermarket amp that will drive the sub has hi-level input connections and if not make sure you purchase a converter. Simply connect the wires going into the existing sub by taking them out and then into new amp or converter.

Check thru the threads, many folks here have different ways they have added subs or change the existing sub and kept the enclosures. Their is on post that has a complete summary of what options are out there. If a find it or if somebody else can post it, it will be great. The most popular choice is to the JL Audio Sleathbox.

Best for now.
yea i have a c-pac bass control/ hi-level converter thanks ima look for the thread
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:55 AM
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Re: Question about amped output to sub.

If only the OE sub was easier to replace.
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