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  #13  
Old 10-05-2012, 02:41 PM
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Re: Switches to fit Factory "holes"

Any luck with the switch mickey? I'm looking to add a switch to my 2 gang. Was able to determine that the 3 gang is the one I'm looking for, but found a youtube video today that seems like I'd have to figure out the wiring since it is one module.

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  #14  
Old 10-07-2012, 10:10 AM
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Re: Switches to fit Factory "holes"

Well, it is still on "the list." I had to get my project done so I have not tackled this. It is possible that you will have wiring in the plug that goes to switches that you don't have. Just need to find the unused wires and tap in to them. I still plan to explore this, maybe in the next month or so.
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Old 10-18-2012, 11:54 AM
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Re: Switches to fit Factory "holes"

I ordered the 3 gang switch assembly and here is what I've learned. The switch assembly contains a circuit board that controls everything. Each switch assemble only has 4 pins that go to the harness, although there are 6 wires on the harness. The only difference between each circuit board is the addition of some chips. In the pic, the 2 gang is on top, the 3 gang is on bottom.

IMAG0173.jpg

I'm looking into the wires going to the harness now to identify what they do and what each pin controls.

As for the individual switches on the assembly, the blanks are all able to be made into working switches by shaving off the stops on the back side. You would have to install a switch as shown in the previous posted link. The backlighting for the stock switches is thanks to an LED on the circuit board and the switch left unpainted on the interior. The front symbology is just unpainted white surface allowing the light to shine through. The plastic block that is between the switch cap and the assembly is what presses against the membrane that contacts the circuit board, it rebounds when you take your finger off the switch and the switch pops back out. The hazard switch is the only on that has a clip that connects to the switch installed on the circuit board, keeping it depressed when you remove your finger.

IMAG0174.jpg

I'll let you know if I figure anything out, but it's looking like most likely I'll have to go the route of installing my own switch behind the cap with wires installed through the assembly housing. But hey, at least I have a button with plexi already installed and an unpainted interior for backlighting capability.
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:23 PM
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Re: Switches to fit Factory "holes"

Wonder if five of those wires are "activation" wires and one is a ground. Or maybe four "activation" wires, a "hot" and ground. The switch simple goes to ground to the one wire to complete a circuit - just a thought
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:02 AM
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Re: Switches to fit Factory "holes"

Quote:
Originally Posted by mickey53usa View Post
Wonder if five of those wires are "activation" wires and one is a ground. Or maybe four "activation" wires, a "hot" and ground. The switch simple goes to ground to the one wire to complete a circuit - just a thought
That wouldn't be consistent with the rest of the car's architecture and wouldn't require ICs. The wires are probably power/ground and CAN bus.
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:27 PM
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Re: Switches to fit Factory "holes"

Sorry guys, long overdue and I've been busy. I almost gave up on this project but then was able to find a on/off switch that was small enough to make the project work.

So I got the 3 gang switch assy that had my stock traction control and hazard buttons, with the addtional aux power button. I ordered a on/off switch from digi-key, p/n: 515pb-no
IMAG0230 (640x383).jpg

I then trimmed the membrane to fit the switch into position and drilled holes in the outer case for the wires.
IMAG0229 (640x383).jpg
IMAG0231 (383x640).jpg
IMAG0237 (640x383).jpg

Then with test fitting, I had to trim the spacer that goes between the button housing and the switch. I trimmed it maybe 1/8" to make the switch click on and off.
IMAG0228 (640x383).jpg

I really wanted a light to indicate when on, so I did the resistor calculations for an LED and found one small enough to fit the factory LED hole at radioshack, p/n 276-0026.
IMAG0233 (383x640).jpg

Drilled holes for the LED, then installed LED and switch.
IMAG0236 (640x383).jpg
IMAG0233 (383x640).jpg
IMAG0234 (640x383).jpg
IMAG0235 (640x383).jpg
IMAG0238 (640x383).jpg

The fit of the two casings wasn't perfect with due to the thickness of the switch, but it was good enough for me. All the interlocks but the one near the switch clicked closed. I then installed the resistors in line with the LED, the LED inline with the switch, and then installed the switch assy back into the jeep tapped into the 12v supply in the center console and to my device.
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:38 PM
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Re: Switches to fit Factory "holes"

Finished product
IMAG0244 (640x383).jpg

The only thing I didn't get was backlighting like like the other buttons on the switch assy have, but when I get some time I'll be looking for a switch like the one I have now with a light built into the on/off button. It took me awhile to find the switch small enough to work, I almost gave up because of this, so this is more of a want than a need at this point.

And a little fyi, while I was looking into the same project for a friend with a Dodge, I found out that Dodge has an aux panel that is the exact same button assy with 4 aux buttons that goes into a blank space on their center console. Might be worth it if you guys have the spots available and want on/off indicators without having to make your own lexan spot. P/N 5164912AC
IMG_20120220_122224.jpg
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