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Upgrading just the base speakers?

29K views 172 replies 19 participants last post by  Wake27 
#1 ·
So I was actually pretty impressed with the stock 5.0 system in my Laredo when I got it. I would like to know what options I have for improving the sound down the road though. I know almost nothing about audio stuff but my biggest desire is for the sound quality to just be improved, along with being able to turn it up kinda loud. I like bass to be there and hit some, but not overwhelmingly. Maybe the best way to put it is I'm about 70% satisfied with the stock system but just want a little more. My last car (2006 330I) had the Logoc 7 system which I was about 90% happy with I guess. My question is, how much of an improvement would it make to just replace the stock speakers but not the head unit? Would thy even be possible or would it just be a complete waste? I've read on here that there's a good audio shop in VA beach that I'd probably look into doing any of the work. Appreciate any help.
 
#2 ·
you can add an aftermarket amp and sub to the stock head unit without any issues. install a bass control knob so that you can control the amount of bass you want to hear.

if you want just better sound quality, you can replace the factory speakers without having to upgrade the stock head unit or stock amp. your local audio shop should be able to give you some suggestions based on price and quality. i replaced my speakers without upgrading the factory amp or head unit and i'm very happy with my decision.
 
#32 ·
if you want just better sound quality, you can replace the factory speakers without having to upgrade the stock head unit or stock amp. your local audio shop should be able to give you some suggestions based on price and quality. i replaced my speakers without upgrading the factory amp or head unit and i'm very happy with my decision.
I'm with Bake and others here on speaker replacement and have replaced the fronts and rears.

3 weeks ago the fronts got replaced with Focal 165 KR2 splits. The tweeters fit perfectly (stock cover has to go). Needed some dynamat equiv to fill the gap created by replacing 6x9s with a 6.5. Didn't use the Focal crossovers as there are separate signals to tweeter and woofer from the stock amp.

Today I replaced the rears with Focal 165 KRC coaxials. The improvement in overall clarity is amazing. No more muddiness and good volume without having to wind the dial all the way to the right.

When I first got my Jeep I was convinced I'd be replacing all speakers and the sub plus adding LOCs and amps. But after today I reckon I'm done! I'll give it a few weeks but after a couple of hours cruising today I'm very happy with the result.
 
#12 ·
With just replacing the speakers there's still the issue with the current head unit where you have to turn it up to between 18-22 before any real sound kicks in..anything before that and the sound is very low so perhaps that's where the amp would improve the whole scenario in addition to the speaker replacement.
 
#14 ·
I went and talked to an audio shop, they recommended doing an amp and processor as opposed to speakers if I were to choose one or the other/upgrade in steps. Would you guys agree? They also said that it would take about $1,500 otherwise it wouldn't really be worth it, even though I told them the stock system does 60-70% of what I want. I was hoping there'd be something that could be done with quality parts for less than that.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Greetings,

Since you have the basic stock system, what are you doing for a subwoofer? That is the most important question right now. This will determine your upgrade path. Do you also want the Logic 7 integrated into the JGC via JBL's MS-8? Is installing a center channel speaker important to you?

The 2 problems that I have with the car audio shop's suggestion is, you can be locked into a certain configuration and if you want to change, you might be throwing out money later.

Many of us, including myself, are in favor of starting with speaker upgrades first. The key as stated before in this thread is to find a speaker that sounds to your liking with a sensitivity rating of 90db or greater. The reason is the internal factory power is limited. Therefore, a speaker of higher sensitivity rating will make use of the power resources and play to its best potential. Here is were the car shop is right. A speaker with a low rating of 85 db will sound terrible unless it has the right amount of power behind it (i.e. 75 watts rms).

The 2 problem I have with their recommendation is simple. The stocks in this and the 9 speaker system is nothing to write home about. You can put a nice SQ amp and hear all the bad stuff really come out. And the processor might not even clean it up correctly.

Most of my new speakers have low sensitivity ratings and I hooked that up to the internal amp and they did not sound that bad. Then again, this are high end speakers. But now with proper amps and proctoring behind them including Logic 7, it is a total different story. I am using Hybrid Audio Technology same as member BAKE, but their top of the line.

Best for now and happy holidays. :)
 
#22 ·
I think I'm going definitely upgrade at least all the speakers and tweeters both in the front and the rear and I have a Polk for the dash speaker so that going to be replaced first. I'm trying to figure out what speakers I'm going with for the rest..I'm keeping the stock sub for now to see how that works with the new speakers and I'm keeping my 8.4 inch head unit. Why did you previously say that any speakers rated above 90 decibels would be good?? Explain that if you could. Believe it or not I checked with crutchfield and they have no recommendations for the 2014 yet because its too new I guess.
 
#25 ·
I think I'm going to upgrade all the speakers first then see how that is and then look into an amp if that necessary. One of the biggest issues with the stock setup is the need to turn the sound up between 16-20 before and real highs or mids kick in if you want to really call it that for the stock setup.
 
#29 · (Edited)
I think I saw that in a recent post here, I'll have to find it again, even though I'd rather not even give that up.

ETA - found it, I'd rather not spend that much for just a sub, but thanks for the recommendation.
 
#33 ·
I'm not sure I understand the reasoning behind dropping $900+ on a set of components and powering them with the stock amp. Certainly not taking advantage of what a $900 pair of speakers can do.

For $900, you could properly amplify a pair of $250 components and they'd probably sound better/play louder.

The 165 KR2's have a sensitivity of 93db. Extremely good, but some Focals are rated at 93.7db for cheaper money...a seemingly better option when powering with a stock amp.
 
#35 ·
Like I said, the plan initially was to add a LOC and amp(s) as well as the speaker upgrade but it was always going to be a step at a time as you never know what difference a single change will make. Having replaced the fronts then the rears with Focals I'm extremely happy with the sound quality. And if I decide to add amps/sound processing at a later stage I know I've got quality end points. Yes I'm not taking advantage of the new components now but I have the capability to later if I so choose.
 
#44 ·
Thanks AllyMac



Not in the K series. If you want the cheaper models I think they're all black or you can pay $2k for Utopia's in grey. In any case I think the Focal signature yellow makes a statement that you have some relatively serious gear.
 
#51 ·
I don't have a subwoofer there, just a storage bin.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's the trade off for nice sound. As I already have the factory sub, I wouldn't miss it. I store my bit of recovery gear with the spare tyre anyway...
 
#52 · (Edited)
OK, I have just finished installing my Polk MM6501 splits in my Overland (9 speaker system) and all I can say is WOW! Just replacing the splits with something decent is worth it. Some on here have said it is a waste of time replacing speakers with the muddy signal and pre defined frequencies. Sure, the signal could definitely be better, but the speaker upgrade alone gave me a considerable improvement. I wouldn't go over the top on speakers with just a stock signal, but in my mind something up to the $350 I spent on splits is reasonable. These things are overpowering the OEM sub considerably in the bass dept (not hard though). In hindsight I probably would have gone with 6x9 HAT Imagine's but I am here now and happy with the result.

Just a word of warning with Polk's and probably most other 6" speakers that do not have a recessed rubber surround, check the front clearance. I have had to chock out the OEM door trim about 4-5mm around the speaker. This was using just a 6mm adapter behind the speaker on the stock mounts. I might have to look for a better solution...

I'll get some pics up later...
 
#54 · (Edited)
Didn't Dynomat. I thought I would try without first as the doors are reasonably catered for already. I think I will go back in and do a little more though. I did place some 3mm adhesive high density foam on the door frame behind the speaker though (as I had some lying around).

I chose the 6.5" MM6501's mainly because they have a 2ohm mid range (same as OEM), a 4ohm soft dome tweeter and they have quite high sensitivity (94dB). Also because they were in the budget I was prepared to spend (AU$350) on the OEM set up and are generally accepted as a pretty good speaker (for AU$350). If I was going to amp up etc, I definitely would have gone with something like the HAT range.
 
#55 ·
Some pics of my HAT Imagine 6x9 install...
 

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#56 ·
Looks good! The HAT's were my first choice, but weren't available on Amazon so couldn't use all my points! haha

You happy with the sound?

Also, just a tip for anyone replacing their door speakers. I didn't mention in my original thread, but I checked every nut and bolt on the back of the door panel and the door itself for proper torque. Definitely found a lot of under torqued fasteners. Wouldn't doubt they were accounting for a few squeaks and creaks.
 
#64 · (Edited)
is it possible i can use these to replace front doors speakers???

Infinity Reference 9632cf 6x9-Inch, 94db and 2 ohm impedance. 2 way.

I cant afford focals or HAT's.
Don't use any coaxials (in the front), replace with some components as that is what you have there now. There are some well priced components out there that should give you an improvement. Again, just watch the front clearance.

Maybe these:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CSS694/Kicker-40CSS694.html?tp=106#details-tab
 
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