Jeep Garage  - Jeep Forum banner

Upgrading just the base speakers?

29K views 172 replies 19 participants last post by  Wake27 
#1 ·
So I was actually pretty impressed with the stock 5.0 system in my Laredo when I got it. I would like to know what options I have for improving the sound down the road though. I know almost nothing about audio stuff but my biggest desire is for the sound quality to just be improved, along with being able to turn it up kinda loud. I like bass to be there and hit some, but not overwhelmingly. Maybe the best way to put it is I'm about 70% satisfied with the stock system but just want a little more. My last car (2006 330I) had the Logoc 7 system which I was about 90% happy with I guess. My question is, how much of an improvement would it make to just replace the stock speakers but not the head unit? Would thy even be possible or would it just be a complete waste? I've read on here that there's a good audio shop in VA beach that I'd probably look into doing any of the work. Appreciate any help.
 
#124 · (Edited)
I got these


Focal Integration IS 165 6-3/4" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com

Crutchfield does not have it but woofers etc in california has em. will get mine on saturday, as soon as i receive em i am putting em in, I am ready, i got adapters and wire adapters ready. and i am gonna use the tweeters which are coming with speakers. and i think they are better than the ones i got right now, but i am not sure.
what you guys suggest which tweeters are better the one coming with the components OR the ones i already have.. which are http://www.ebay.com/itm/130895812131?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Thanks.
 
#121 · (Edited)
As you can see from attached the Focals and the HATs have essentially the same (diameter) dimensions. My concern with mounting directly would be the diameter of the OEM hole and the thickness of the plastic it screws into. The hole ideally would be between 141 and 149mm (mounting directly) to satisfy me it is a good seal and anything less than 3mm (plastic) I wouldn't screw straight into.
Maybe I secure them more than required but I have already seen the movement in my front 6x9's to know it needs securing well.
I'll measure it up and see what we have!
 

Attachments

#123 ·
OK, after installing my front 6x9's and giving them a tickle I think I need to Dynamat/Fatmat the outer door skins on the front. Even at moderate volume (15) I can feel significant vibrations through the outer door skin (standing outside the car). The back door currently with stock speakers creates nothing in comparision.
So with that, has anyone done the front outer door skins/removed the inner door harness, etc?
Any pics? Is there decent access? Any feedback that may assist?
Thanks!
 
#130 · (Edited)
Duplicate post. Damn iPad!
 
#135 ·
OEM are 2.5" but larger can fit. This was discussed in another thread somewhere.
 
#137 · (Edited)
The HAT Mirus 6.5" rear door speakers went in tonight. I used some PVC adapters to ensure a solid fit. You could get away without adapters if you wanted to but I felt I will get a more secure fitment with them.

FYI: the OEM speaker hole is 150mm and the plastic which would secure them is 3mm thick if you wanted to pass on using adapters.

As with most replacements these once again made a huge positive difference to the clarity and as with all HAT speakers, a nice mid bass kick!

Here are a few pics (used a little too much sealant in places but better than not enough). Also, I noticed the rear harness is indeed reverse polarity as per wiring diagrams (unless they are wrong). I had adapter plugs so I just went with the factory setting and it sounds great. Not sure I can be bothered changing it to test the other way...
 

Attachments

#166 · (Edited)
The HAT Mirus 6.5" rear door speakers went in tonight. I used some PVC adapters to ensure a solid fit. You could get away without adapters if you wanted to but I felt I will get a more secure fitment with them.

FYI: the OEM speaker hole is 150mm and the plastic which would secure them is 3mm thick if you wanted to pass on using adapters.

As with most replacements these once again made a huge positive difference to the clarity and as with all HAT speakers, a nice mid bass kick!

Here are a few pics (used a little too much sealant in places but better than not enough). Also, I noticed the rear harness is indeed reverse polarity as per wiring diagrams (unless they are wrong). I had adapter plugs so I just went with the factory setting and it sounds great. Not sure I can be bothered changing it to test the other way...
Very interesting and informative thread. Thanks to all who posted their experiences here. :thumbsup:

exlr8...... I see you used some sealant to mount the rear door adapter plates. Is that necessary, or is that what a quality installer would do when using an adapter plate. What sealant did you use, ordinary silicone or something a little better like a 3M marine grade sealant like this?

On-line Product Catalog:Â*3Mâ„¢ Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 4200
 
#138 · (Edited)
Audio equipment Car subwoofer Auto part Computer speaker Sound box
wow exlr8, nice work...

I received my focals 6.5 today and i gathered all the stuff and headed to my workplace, i have access to heated garage there.

I opened eveything up for dash speaker , it was easy replaced with polk ,I got from nice member here. Thank you.

Next i opened the pass door panel to replace the 6x9 with foval 6.5... but i got stuck with adapter, the adapter opening would not let thru the back of the speaker, meaning... the hole was lil small. the adatper I tried to modify the adapter and it broke plus it gave me bad cut on my hand so i could not finish i had to put the panel back. total messed up.. i was planning for past 4 days , for this day and couldnt finish because of stupid adapter, I bought that useless adapter on r bay for 8 bucks, now what do i do... I need true adapter which i can use for my 6.5 focalssss... i NEED adapter. where can I get the adapter with big enough hole to use with focals.???
 

Attachments

#139 · (Edited)
Get some 6mm (1/4") MDF and use what you have as a bit of a template cutting the correct size hole (see speaker specs) with a jigsaw. Slap on some black paint to finish it if you want to. Easy as if you have a drill and a jigsaw!

From the earlier post you need the hole to be around 143mm or a tiny bit more.
 
#141 ·
I thought it was now broken... ??
 
#143 ·
Some serious looking adapters there. Have you checked the midrange clears the interior door trim? I assume the 4th screw went in the midrange?
Also, you often find your bass response will improve in the first 20hrs of use after the they loosen up.
 
#151 · (Edited)
Not to sidetrack from what everyone else is doing and explained so far, but has anyone just upgraded the amp and added a LOC to improve audio quality?

Being stuck with the 2014 head unit for now, I'm trying to solve my audio distortion problem, that I've narrowed down to the source of it with my factory amp. It seems to hit a wall with loudness settings and from there deteriorates, especially with bass heavy songs (mid range bass especially throws it off for some reason).

So I spoke with a local audio place that thinks replacing the stock amp with a 4 or 5 channel aftermarket amp and using an LOC, would bring the speakers to life a bit. I agree with the technician in that I don't think the new stock speakers sound all that bad, it's just the power being sent to them that is lacking and unsupported.

I'd greatly appreciate a second or even third opinion.
 
#154 ·
Not to sidetrack from what everyone else is doing and explained so far, but has anyone just upgraded the amp and added a LOC to improve audio quality?

Being stuck with the 2014 head unit for now, I'm trying to solve my audio distortion problem, that I've narrowed down to the source of it with my factory amp. It seems to hit a wall with loudness settings and from there deteriorates, especially with bass heavy songs (mid range bass especially throws it off for some reason).

So I spoke with a local audio place that thinks replacing the stock amp with a 4 or 5 channel aftermarket amp and using an LOC, would bring the speakers to life a bit. I agree with the technician in that I don't think the new stock speakers sound all that bad, it's just the power being sent to them that is lacking and unsupported.

I'd greatly appreciate a second or even third opinion.
Deff the stock amp is hurting your audio expirience. id upgrade it to something with more kick. But at the same time if your gonna go that route, be sure to have the speakers first...
 
#163 ·
None of that was directed at anyone,it was just something put out there in case someone had some info on a great deal on focals. I've always said start first with new speakers,play the media that you like and break them in then evaluate whether an amp is needed,everyone's ears are different of course.
 
#164 ·
That is how I built my budget system. Upgraded to kicker ks speakers all around on the stock deck and no sub or amps. That was an immediate upgrade. Then I added the kicker l5 and amp to the stock deck using a loc. That filled the lows nicely. Then I changed decks and with that came a second amp to run the six speakers. It may be low budget and kicker but it sounds amazing in my WK1.
 
#168 ·
So I checked out for quite some time and am just now getting back to this. How would the JL Stealthbox and XD300/1v2 do with the rest of the base system? Would it make a noticeable improvement since I'd actually have a sub or would it just sound like trash because of the range in performance?
 
#169 ·
Greetings and welcome,

If you can give us an update on your systems current status will be helpful including all the mods you made.

With regards to the Stealthbox setup you propose, it will for sure give you the lows you are looking for. In terms of sound quality, it depends again on how you perceive sound. If you are running off the Alpine Factory System, their is a chance you might feel the bass gets lost in the cargo area and does not match the front stage. This is a direct result of the pre determined settings in the DSP. By playing the sub louder to compensate might give you the trash problem you mentioned.

In any event the Stealthbox is far better than the factory sub or trying to modify it.

Best for now.:)
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top