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  #49  
Old 08-02-2016, 08:39 PM
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Re: DIY- 2011 Differential Service/ Fluid Change

I agree with Floridaman. Spot on with the drain and fill on the transfer case. The tag is metal so it will be there
The t case can roll to 64000 miles even under the severe service spec so it's good. I did mine at about 38000 but that's due to the sponsorship with Amsoil. It was clean coming out. 2 quart is all you need with the Select-Trac 2 case. Other cases are slightly less.
With the diff, my advice is to do it before the 64 k if you have ELSD. The clutches really dirty up the oil. For the cost of the oil and an hour of your time it's a no brainer. Not sure why your dealer is using 140 oil. That is not correct for the GC. Stick to the 75-85.
22 lb-ft is sufficient for all the drain and fill plugs.

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  #50  
Old 02-08-2017, 09:01 PM
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Re: DIY- 2011 Differential Service/ Fluid Change

Hey I have 2014 and I changed my oil last night in the rear diff. It was warm when I drained it and cold when I filled it. Today I came home from work about a 20 minute drive and figured I'd double check the level and once I opened the fill plug fluid was coming out the fill hole. I let it drain and then came back after it cooled. I noticed the level dropped below the fill port so I added more to top it off. I know fluid expands when it gets warm so my question is should the rear diff only be checked when the fluid is cold and topped off then? I appreciate any input and help. Thanks
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  #51  
Old 02-09-2017, 04:55 PM
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8 or 9 millimeters difference in oil level isn't going to make a difference. I wouldn't go checking it after a hour drive on the interstate in August, but (depending on where you live) 20 minutes isn't going to change the temp of the oil that significantly. I could only guess that there is a good coat of lube on everything inside the case (gears, clutch plates and the case itself) and it hasn't drained into the bottom.
FWIW, I drained it hot for about 15 minutes and then put 70*f oil in it. I have only checked it when it's ambient temp and it still wants to ooze out a bit.
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  #52  
Old 02-09-2017, 05:20 PM
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Re: DIY- 2011 Differential Service/ Fluid Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Evil Twin View Post
8 or 9 millimeters difference in oil level isn't going to make a difference. I wouldn't go checking it after a hour drive on the interstate in August, but (depending on where you live) 20 minutes isn't going to change the temp of the oil that significantly. I could only guess that there is a good coal of lube on everything inside the case (gears, clutch plates and the case itself) and it hasn't drained into the bottom.
FWIW, I drained it hot for about 15 minutes and then put 70*f oil in it. I have only checked it when it's ambient temp and it still wants to ooze out a bit.
Ok sounds like I'm doing it right. Thanks for the reply back.
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Old 04-01-2017, 02:03 PM
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Re: DIY- 2011 Differential Service/ Fluid Change

2011 Jeep grand cherokee 70th anniversary edition.

Couple of things, that I just need clarification on.

Front differential, is right next to the oil pan cant even fit anything into the bolt, hardly any space, any ideas? This is 10 mm hex

Rear diff takes 14 mm hex? Has both a drain and fill plug on passenger side.

Tcase - easy peasy right on the drivers side. Correct?
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  #54  
Old 04-02-2017, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justyk31011 View Post
2011 Jeep grand cherokee 70th anniversary edition.

Couple of things, that I just need clarification on.

Front differential, is right next to the oil pan cant even fit anything into the bolt, hardly any space, any ideas? This is 10 mm hex

Rear diff takes 14 mm hex? Has both a drain and fill plug on passenger side.

Tcase - easy peasy right on the drivers side. Correct?
My Jeep is V8 and yours may differ on the front so far as space is concerned. You do have to remove the skid plates if you have them. Also depending on what drivetrain you have, the sockets might be a different size. Mine were eight millimeter all the way around.
For the 230 millimeter rear end the drain is on the back. The fill is on the passenger side. I can only imagine all front differentials are the same. I didn't have to do anything special to get to the plugs which are both on the passenger side of the vehicle
The transfer case has both plugs on the backside of the case. In reference to the metal data plate, the fill is at the 11:00 position and the drain is at the 5:00 position.
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Old 04-02-2017, 12:12 PM
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Re: DIY- 2011 Differential Service/ Fluid Change

I dont believe that I have the metal data plate for whatever reason. However both plugs are facing the back of the vehicle. This is a picture from the back looking towards the front. Can you please verify?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Uh...5=w525-h699-no
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  #56  
Old 04-03-2017, 06:47 AM
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Can't access the photo.
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Old 04-03-2017, 08:27 AM
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  #58  
Old 04-03-2017, 09:00 AM
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Re: DIY- 2011 Differential Service/ Fluid Change

I can see that one. Thanks.
You apparently have a different transfer case than I do. Those look like the plugs. Do they have copper or aluminum washers on them? If so, it is recommended they be replaced each time. It's not a "must", but they are supposed to flatten out to seal the plug.
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:28 AM
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Re: DIY- 2011 Differential Service/ Fluid Change

Honestly, when I was changing the fluid, I didn't even notice washers on either of the plugs. I was worried I changed some wrong fluid because I didn't see the metal data plug, but then thought through it and realized it couldn't have been anything else.

Do you know why my transfer case differs from most? Or why I do not have a metal data plate?

I appreciate your help. Thank you.
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  #60  
Old 04-03-2017, 09:43 AM
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Re: DIY- 2011 Differential Service/ Fluid Change

Depending on your model Jeep, one of three cases are used: MP2010, MP3023 or MP3010. WHen I say model, I mean Laredo, Overland, SRT, etc.
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