Anybody install an electric brake controller yet?
According to the instructions that came with the pigtail in the glovebox, it says the female end is to the left of the steering column, under the dash, "taped up"?!?!? Looked, and saw nothing..
Also, the wiring diagram calls out colors and tracers that do not coorespond with the pigtail included?
Oh how I miss my Fords!!
It's for When you are towing a trailer equipped with brakes. It allows you to control them.
Here is a detailed wiki explanation.
A brake controller is usually an oem or aftermarket installed device or module. It is mounted to the tow vehicle's drivers side dashboard area that engages a trailer’s braking system time delayed or proportional to the tow vehicle's brake engagement when slowing down or coming to a halt. A brake controller is not needed with a trailer surge braking system unless using modern electric over hydraulic devices.
Most basic brake controllers will generally have a +/- gain adjustment. The tow vehicle operator would set the gain as high as possible but without the trailer brakes locking-up after making a few test stops. The heavier the trailer, the higher the gain adjustment would be set and therefore the less chances of wheel lock-up.
A wide range of trailers will contain trailer brakes (for example; larger boats trailers, horse trailers, covered utility trailers, travel trailers including small 10-foot and longer tent trailers and car carriers). Smaller trailers may not contain trailer brakes (for example; basic 4'x8' utility trailers). It is highly recommended that if the total trailer weight is over a couple thousand pounds, the trailer needs to have some sort of braking system and the tow vehicle be equipped with a brake controller.
Are you serious???
Did you buy your Jeeps to look at or use?
Just over 1k miles and already driven through and covered with mud, rocks and crushed asphalt (all work related)
On my way to pick up a 6k trailer to tow all over creation!
if you search here there were pictures posted early spring on this exact topic. if you have the tow package, not dealer installed option, the plug is there( for exception of a very first batch of vehicles, i believe)
Thanks for the tips. I figured out which wires were for what on the pigtail that was in the glovebox. I will take another look for the female connector under the dash. It must be burried under there!
I also installed a Prodigy P2. The connector is hard to find....IIRC it's taped to another connector box on the left side of the steering column, up a ways from the bottom of the cover. It's kind of hidden, but it's there. Bruce
Andyh where did you get your harness for the Prodigy P2? I have the controller for a 2008 Grand Cherokee and was told that there is no harness made for the 2008 complete with connectors on both ends. What model Sig?
I'm hoping I can get the small wiring harness in Australia shown in previous threads from Prodigy 2 to connector near park brake pedal, but what about wires at the trailer plug?
Do the wires connect all the way back in the loom?
I had the Mopar fitted towbar and plug fitted by the dealer here.
I've done some more research, looks like safest for Aussie model is to run twin wire back to trailer plug for switch wire and brake wire then source power and earth up front with another twin with slow blow fuse.
That'll be the go (and it'll all come together if you are careful) although instructions for my Tekonsha P3 (which I fitted up in the cubby) say to use circuit breaker for power supply to the controller. Don't really think it would matter that much as long as you protect the circuit.
Us people on the bottom of the world have to do things the hard way....
Sorry to be a pain but how the hell dud you get a drill in that little cubby in front of the gear lever to mount the controller and can you shut the cubby or have to leave open?
I am assuming you leave it open and then remove controller when not towing?
The P3 fits in the cubby really neat (although it is a tightish fit) and the door is shut when not towing - I leave the controller in place and it just shows the Tekonsha screen when the van is not connected. I used double sided sticky tape under the bracket to stick it to the rubber mat and it stays in place no worries. Not all that hard to remove and you need to leave a bit of slack in the controller wiring to allow the plug to come clear of the cubby to make it easy to plug/unplug.
Now - to put the controller in the cubby I pulled it out......easy to drill the hole then.
There are instructions on removing interior trim here (and lots of other good stuff) http://www.wk2jeeps.com/wk2_interior_trim.htm.
Looks scary but I didn't think it was all that hard. I took the view that the controller was there for the long term and I didn't want to compromise on the position.
Very important if you disconnect any wiring you do not turn on the ignition until everything is reconnected. Very tempting while testing but the Canbus will have issues if it runs a system test with disconnected wiring.
That's another reason to stay away from any Jeep wiring and install yours separately.
Good luck
Does anyone have the factory Pigtail, they would like to mail to me? I got my GC one month used and it seems the PO took it out and did who knows what with it. I have a controller that I used in my JK but I need the factory pigtail so I don't have to cut splice any wires in my new baby...
I think I paid about 15$ for it...... and now that it's plugged in, not even going to try and unplug it now, it's a tough reach by the ebrake pedal.....
Gregg, I mounted mine in this location...out of the way and not actually near my legs and I can see it through the steering wheel, too. I chose to use the clip mount so I could disconnect it and stow in the glove box when it's not in use. I did see a photo on eTrailer where someone mounted theirs inside of the compartment behind the shifter in the dash...the door hiding it when it was not in use.
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