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  #49  
Old 10-24-2013, 11:00 PM
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Re: Floor Jack Lift Points

I don't think that damage will hurt anything, but sorry it happened..

I cannot post a picture as I know cars more than computers, but it seems totally obvious to me that near the arrow behind the front wheels there is a ridge of painted pressed unit steel that I've used countless times to rotate tires etc.. I can raise the entire side of the Jeep off the ground for front and rear wheel removal at once. I don't use any special jack that would fit the hole but I do use a puck on that ridge. The ridge runs the whole length of the body between the wheel wells....

I agree a jack on that black brace is a stupid move.

But never get under a car without jack stands in place and a back-up. Peace.
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  #50  
Old 10-24-2013, 11:16 PM
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Re: Floor Jack Lift Points

I used to have to lift my Subaru on the pinch welds. I got a hockey puck and notched it so that the notch supports the weld and the rest of the puck touches the subfloor/rocker.

Once lifted I use jack stands with 1x2 pieces of wood between the pinch weld and the jackstand to prevent bending the pinch weld.

Recently I purchased some Race ramps and 8" tall wheel blocks so whenever I need to crawl underneath I just drive onto the ramps and jack up the rear and place on blocks(if necessary)
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  #51  
Old 10-25-2013, 07:24 AM
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Re: Floor Jack Lift Points

I had a floor jack that I left behind when I moved. It came with two inserts. One was specifically designed to accept a pinch weld in a slot. Since it was the only non commercial jack I every used, I thought they all came that way.


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  #52  
Old 11-02-2013, 09:09 PM
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Re: Floor Jack Lift Points

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Originally Posted by REDDIZE View Post
Thanks so much for the photos and the work you put into it; I agree with all of your comments and sympathize with you on the damage to the A arms; what kind of clown (probably a young kid that didn't know any better) would attempt to lift 25% of 2.5 tons on an uneven surface such as that!

As for the engineering; who would suspect the front lifting points at such a slender (pinch weld location) vertical protrusion can support that kind of weight w/out showing deformation such as seen in the A arms? As good as the rear lift points are the front pinch weld points couldn't be any worse. So the question remains; where exactly do the service boys place the hydraulic arms to safely support the front of the vehicle?

I can't understand why this information is so hard to come by; risking vehicle damage (like you've experienced) or even worse; a potential injury accident from a vehicle falling off a jack or hoist is unfathomable.
Thanks for the kind words, I have been very busy and did not read your post until now. Also, I never have any intention of getting under my car while it is jacked up or on stands. Also, I have authorization from my Rock Guard provider to lift from there. This avoids the whole problem and now I can lift the whole side at once. I did also get a pinch weld adapter for my jack; although most service guys use something similar to the puck I believe.
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  #53  
Old 11-03-2013, 04:48 PM
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Re: Floor Jack Lift Points

Next time I go to the dealer I'm going to ask where the lift points/jack stand locations are; hopefully will get a clear answer and some photos...
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  #54  
Old 11-28-2013, 11:24 PM
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Re: Floor Jack Lift Points

Interesting thread. I bought a 2011 Grand Cherokee yesterday. I'll have it on my two post lift soon so I will be following this discussion.
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  #55  
Old 01-12-2014, 05:15 PM
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Re: Floor Jack Lift Points

wanted to say thanks for this post, the pictures are very helpful, i was trying to jack my durango up for a wheel swap, and for the life of me, i could not figure out the front, so i gave up!
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  #56  
Old 03-23-2014, 02:25 PM
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Re: Floor Jack Lift Points

Reposted from here Checked wheel lug nut torque for 130 ft lbs(I will post photos in the future:

i just got some new tools. I got a new 3 ton jack; i lift from my rocky road rock rails. After chocking front and rear wheels on the opposite side and applying the parking brake i jack up the entire side from the center of my rock rails. I can only recommend this with the rocky road outfitters rock rails (installed correctly) and not other brands. I do not believe rocky road has said, in writing, they approve of this. I only know when i did it it worked great. Also, someone besides me damaged the under carriage by lifting in the wrong place. (photos on a jacking thread somewhere.) no damage occurred with my jack. (harbor freight 3 ton aluminum). I positioned the jack so the rail contacted only the rubber part of the pad. I will post photos on the jack point thread.

I use an impact wrench with torque sticks. I use the 110 ft/lbs stick. I compared the applied torque with a hand held torque wrench. They were very close. With the impact wrench and the torque sticks i count "one one-thousand, two one-thousand" to make sure the torque is correct. I need to set the impact wrench to maximum with the torque stick for the proper torque. My testing shows when using a torque stick it is impossible to torque higher than the stated torque on the stick. (torque sticks also purchased from harbor freight.)

i always start the nut by hand(this avoids cross threading); i think i will hand tighten the first two assuring the rim is on the centering ring correctly before using the impact wrench /w torque stick. (i have custom wheels with plastic centering rings.) i use the torque stick for removing as well in case i have the setting not on reverse by accident.

I hope someone finds this information useful.

Also, the reason for all this is I just got my first flat tire at 8,500 miles.
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  #57  
Old 03-24-2014, 07:52 PM
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Re: Floor Jack Lift Points

The other day I rotated the tires since my vehicle is a year old. I know for a fact that I had the lug nuts torqued (with an accurate torque wrench) tightened by hand to 110 lb ft. I had 3 lugs that I couldn't break lose with a 2 foot breaker bar. I had to resort to taking out the air gun and even then it took a lot of trying to get those 3 lugs loosened. The vehicle has never seen any snow or salt treated roads since we don't have that stuff around here. I checked the threads on the studs and the nuts and they looked fine with no corrosion.

Anyone have an ideas on why only 3 lugs (same wheel) were so hard to remove?
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:50 PM
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Re: Floor Jack Lift Points

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Originally Posted by BobsWK2 View Post
The other day I rotated the tires since my vehicle is a year old. I know for a fact that I had the lug nuts torqued (with an accurate torque wrench) tightened by hand to 110 lb ft. I had 3 lugs that I couldn't break lose with a 2 foot breaker bar. I had to resort to taking out the air gun and even then it took a lot of trying to get those 3 lugs loosened. The vehicle has never seen any snow or salt treated roads since we don't have that stuff around here. I checked the threads on the studs and the nuts and they looked fine with no corrosion.

Anyone have an ideas on why only 3 lugs (same wheel) were so hard to remove?
I might check your torque wrench also do you wind it down when your not using it? Other than that I would wonder if thread lock was on the lug nut.

If some oil or grease got on the nut or stud it might get over torqued, then, the oil dries up with the heat. Clean any grease or debris off the studs and Nuts before reinstalling your wheel.

I really don't know just throwing some thoughts out there.
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  #59  
Old 03-25-2014, 07:05 PM
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Re: Floor Jack Lift Points

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobsWK2 View Post

Anyone have an ideas on why only 3 lugs (same wheel) were so hard to remove?

I would bet that someone else at some point serviced the vehicle and removed the tire and applied the incorrect torque. You went by the book by originally hand tightening with the torque wrench.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:15 PM
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Re: Floor Jack Lift Points

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1973Commando View Post
I might check your torque wrench also do you wind it down when your not using it? Other than that I would wonder if thread lock was on the lug nut.

If some oil or grease got on the nut or stud it might get over torqued, then, the oil dries up with the heat. Clean any grease or debris off the studs and Nuts before reinstalling your wheel.

I really don't know just throwing some thoughts out there.
Yes, I always wind the setting back to zero before placing it in the tool box. Since I'm the only one who drives the vehicle, I don't see how any grease/oil could have gotten on the studs/lugnuts. But thanks for the thoughts.
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