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HID projectors headlamp retrofit - DIY (picture heavy)

71K views 99 replies 42 participants last post by  REDGC2014 
#1 · (Edited)
This is my second post here, so I decided to make helpful to those seeking help. I was unable to find anyone that had tried to open the headlamp assemblies on the WK2 Grand Cherokees 2011 and up and retrofitted projector assemblies in them.
I went with aftermarket projectors because how much clearer and more light output they have over factory projectors

- I'm not responsible for any damage you may cause to your vehicle, do this at your own risk -

Parts list:

- Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini H1 4.1 projector assemblies, 2ea.
- Gatling gun 2.0 shroud assemblies, 2ea.
- Low beam wiring harness compatible with H8/H9/H11, 1ea.
- 55 watts, H1, 4500k color HID kit, DDMtuning, 1ea. (it comes with ballasts and light bulbs)
- Roll of 3M windo-weld ribbon Butyl sealer, 1ea.

I used this to seal the lens to the housing and also seal the bulb area. Put it around the bulb once it's in.




First, I couldn't find a way to open these headlamp assemblies because of the type of glue that Chrysler uses, everyone else uses Butyl, which softens right away once you apply heat for 10 minutes in the oven at 250 degrees Fahrenheit. I even tried 45 minutes without success. I ended up just cutting the the edge of the headlamp assembly that surrounds the clear lens, and then to the oven at 250 for 10 minutes (don't forget to protect the under side of the headlamp by placing it over a wet towel or large pan or something) after that, the lip you cut, should just rip off easily and allow you to slowly start to pry off the lens off. If it starts to get harder to keep prying, just reheat it for 10 more minutes.

Remove the front bumper, grille, and headlamps



Projectors, ballasts, and shrouds. Note: I had to trim the top of the shroud a bit to make it fit nicely.



Headlamp with the lens removed



Here you can see factory vents on the housing.




I added another vent to be safe and prevent condensation, since there is added heat inside, I think... You can see the little hole drilled, bottom right.



These are the vent I glued in place.



Lenses removed



These projectors slide thru the hole where the low beam bulb used to be. A little trimming of the hole was necessary.




I painted the chrome inserts flat black while at it. Tape the chrome center section to avoid over spray.



The harness came complete with it own fuse, easy to hook up to the jump posts.




The relays that came with the harness.



Assemble it with the new Butyl weather sealant.

Before.



And the final result is.......












I hope this ends up helping someone.

BB




 
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#80 ·
This past week I began installing retrofit HID BiXenon projectors in the wife's 2013. Last month I installed capped HID fog lights. I didn't have the experience or time to do it all at once, so I went with TYC replacement units ordered through Amazon.com for $125 each. This way the GC didn't need to be down while I took my time and if I broke anything or screwed it up, I could just stop, put it back together and I didn't mess up the OEM headlamp units. (which I'll have as extra's and the TYC aftermarket units are identical). Using the TYC's was a blessing in disguise.

I'll start by saying I would have never attempted this without How-to's like the OP"s and this one, http://www.jeepgarage.org/f156/how-...2011-jeep-grand-cherokee-pic-heavy-20481.html

The TYC units separated in five minutes after baking at 225 degrees for 14 minutes in the oven placed on a clean white towel. I only had to use a clean stiff 1 inch putty knife to separate the halves and then used a clean round punch to run in the warm butyl sealant to make a smooth track for re-sealing when I go to seal them up.

I will follow again the removal instructions in the previously mentioned fog light "How-to". So far I've assembled the wiring harness, it is simple plug and play from RetroSolutions, I've installed the projectors and shrouds, and now I'm just waiting for enough downtime to install It is a serious pain in the ass in some regards.

I found that removing the complete front bumper was actually pretty easy and choosing TYC units has made it simple to separate the lamp housings. I'll update as I move on.

(And before you remove anything mark the OEM headlamp aim on a garage door or wall first, then leave the tape up. 25 feet back, measure from center-line height and width of the center of low and high beam, etc. That way when you install/align HID's you already know where to aim them.)

I went with RetroSolutions, PROJ-MINI-BIX Mini BiXenon Retrofit Projectors, 35W-DIGI-KIT-HEAD 35W 4300K DIGITAL HID KIT for Head Lamps, and RetroSolution wiring harnesses because they come completely plug-n-play and assembled and even I cant wire it wrong. Their Tech Dept. also responds to every question I've ever had the same day.
 

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#81 ·
I just finished sealing both TYC headlamp units and they are ready to be installed back in the GC. (I tore a muscle lifting which had to be surgically repaired so I have to recoup for a few weeks) From reading many different Forums the unsealing and sealing of the headlamp units is the biggest reservation guys have before doing any HID retrofitting. I wanted to post A few tips that I learned doing it my first time to prevent someone else from doing the same.

When you heat the units in the oven, only do one at a time. Make sure the towel doesn't get close to/block the heat temp probe in your oven and the "plastic chrome" parts are nowhere near the heat elements. They discolor way before the plastic gets hot.

When you separate the two halves, have a razor knife or preferably a large pair of scissors handy to cut the "strands' of melted butyl hanging between the lenses and the housings. They separate the consistency of cheese strands melting off a slice of pizza, which are easily cut with the scissors, as they cool quickly.

I used 3M 1/4" Window-weld. I found that the best thickness is actually 1/4" stretched or kneaded slightly thinner. When you separate the two hot halves; one third of the black sealer will stay in the housing channel, one third will stay on the lenses, and you will cut off approx. one third as strands or rubber balls as you separate the halves. When you go to reseal the units lay the kneaded window-weld in the lamp housing channel re-heat both halves at 200 degrees for about ten minutes.

Have a can of compressed air or air line on hand to blow clean the dust and particles that get on the chrome plated plastic reflectors. I found out the hard way, do not wipe them with even the softest, best cloth you have, they will scratch or dull.

About half of the headlamp seal jobs I read on Forums result in slight leaks after the first time it rains. So while they are out and right in front of you run a small bead of sealant around any gaps that you see. I used Permatex #81730; Flowable Silicone Windshield & Glass Sealer.
 
#84 ·
They are holding up very well. No problems of any kind.

Even though the fogs are "capped" and the fog lights being aimed properly the wife say's she does get "high-beam flashed" every now and then. They are real bright and only light up the ground the way you want them too.

Sorry if I didn't reply if asked earlier, after the mods to the wife's GC I haven't been monitoring the site often.
 
#85 ·
Sorry for the dumb question, but I am currently on TRS trying to purchase the Morimoto mini H1 kit and its asking which harness I want with the kit. I'm stumped... I know the OP mentioned using the "Low beam wiring harness compatible with H8/H9/H11, 1ea." Which one would that be out of there Canbus and HD Relay option? I do know I have to click the option for compatible with the H11. Thanks in advance for any help!
 
#87 ·
I don't know who you intended the question for; but I installed a set of PIAA Xtreme White Plus high beam bulbs 4000K, to closely match the 4300K HID systems I installed.

Our Laredo X did not come with factory DRL, and I installed a set of aftermarket LED DRL's.
 
#88 ·
It was meant for anyone on here lol. Mine is actually canadian if that makes a difference. it has DRL where the highbeams are and they go off when i turn on the turn signal. I actually dont have an HID system installed yet so i was looking for what would match with it in the interim. Any HID system you would recommend? dont want the entire headlamp illuminated, i like what the OP pic shows where the bulb is clean and straight, not making the whole headlamp white/blue( if any of this makes sense to others :lol:
 
#93 ·
Hello Everyone!

I have never done an HID retrofit but am seriously considering doing one to my 2012 Altitude. At first I was thinking about just buying and painting some Limited/Overland HID headlights or buying some SRT8 ones (since they are already painted black) but both of those will be very costly! I do not mind getting my hands dirty but was wondering if anyone knew what parts/tools I will need to take on a project like this?

For example, would the Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini complete kit from TRS be everything I need for the HID conversion (Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1) Are there any other relays or harnesses that need to be purchased with this?

I understand that I will also probably need a dremel tool, headlight ribbon sealer, and other tools to get the job done, so is this kit really the only other thing I need (besides the headlights) to do the retrofit? And are there any other kits you guys would recommend that are cheaper than $270?

Sorry for all the questions, you guys have inspired me, but I am still scared to start prying them headlights open and taking on a project like this! Eventually, I'd like to do the retrofit with some 6500k lights, replace my highbeams with some different bulbs to somewhat match the HIDs, possibly convert my fogs with an HID kit, and disable my drls (I'm just not a fan of them personally). Thanks in advance for your help!
 
#95 ·
If anyone is interested, I will have a pair of stock laredo headlights to sell. cheap like 150$ for the pair. I bought TYC to do my retro-fit because they are easier to open.
 
#96 ·
Stock halogen headlights are for sale now.. im in retrofit project right now.

question: Are you guys using 35W or 55W ballast? TRS says to use only 35W because it will melt the mini H1 projectors... just curious. I have seen some guys using 55W with no issue. I will go with 35 just to be safe
 
#97 ·
I have done a retrofit on my 2012 laredo, and there is a strange behavior now. In DRL mode, the low beam is always on. I have wired the HID relay to the low beam oem harness with tap, same thing with the high beam. So both the low and high beam OEM connector have nothing on it.. no bulb, nothing. Its just tapped. Before the retrofit, in DRL mode, there was only the high beam with low power. Now the low beam is on all the time. I dont know what i did wrong... or could it be the onboard computer that is detecting that there is nothing plugged to the stock harnes, and sends power ? im lost
 
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