This is my second post here, so I decided to make helpful to those seeking help. I was unable to find anyone that had tried to open the headlamp assemblies on the WK2 Grand Cherokees 2011 and up and retrofitted projector assemblies in them.
I went with aftermarket projectors because how much clearer and more light output they have over factory projectors
- I'm not responsible for any damage you may cause to your vehicle, do this at your own risk -
Parts list:
- Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini H1 4.1 projector assemblies, 2ea.
- Gatling gun 2.0 shroud assemblies, 2ea.
- Low beam wiring harness compatible with H8/H9/H11, 1ea.
- 55 watts, H1, 4500k color HID kit, DDMtuning, 1ea. (it comes with ballasts and light bulbs)
- Roll of 3M windo-weld ribbon Butyl sealer, 1ea.
I used this to seal the lens to the housing and also seal the bulb area. Put it around the bulb once it's in.
First, I couldn't find a way to open these headlamp assemblies because of the type of glue that Chrysler uses, everyone else uses Butyl, which softens right away once you apply heat for 10 minutes in the oven at 250 degrees Fahrenheit. I even tried 45 minutes without success. I ended up just cutting the the edge of the headlamp assembly that surrounds the clear lens, and then to the oven at 250 for 10 minutes (don't forget to protect the under side of the headlamp by placing it over a wet towel or large pan or something) after that, the lip you cut, should just rip off easily and allow you to slowly start to pry off the lens off. If it starts to get harder to keep prying, just reheat it for 10 more minutes.
Remove the front bumper, grille, and headlamps
Projectors, ballasts, and shrouds. Note: I had to trim the top of the shroud a bit to make it fit nicely.
Headlamp with the lens removed
Here you can see factory vents on the housing.
I added another vent to be safe and prevent condensation, since there is added heat inside, I think... You can see the little hole drilled, bottom right.
These are the vent I glued in place.
Lenses removed
These projectors slide thru the hole where the low beam bulb used to be. A little trimming of the hole was necessary.
I painted the chrome inserts flat black while at it. Tape the chrome center section to avoid over spray.
The harness came complete with it own fuse, easy to hook up to the jump posts.
The relays that came with the harness.
Assemble it with the new Butyl weather sealant.
Before.
And the final result is.......
I hope this ends up helping someone.
BB
I went with aftermarket projectors because how much clearer and more light output they have over factory projectors
- I'm not responsible for any damage you may cause to your vehicle, do this at your own risk -
Parts list:
- Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini H1 4.1 projector assemblies, 2ea.
- Gatling gun 2.0 shroud assemblies, 2ea.
- Low beam wiring harness compatible with H8/H9/H11, 1ea.
- 55 watts, H1, 4500k color HID kit, DDMtuning, 1ea. (it comes with ballasts and light bulbs)
- Roll of 3M windo-weld ribbon Butyl sealer, 1ea.
I used this to seal the lens to the housing and also seal the bulb area. Put it around the bulb once it's in.
First, I couldn't find a way to open these headlamp assemblies because of the type of glue that Chrysler uses, everyone else uses Butyl, which softens right away once you apply heat for 10 minutes in the oven at 250 degrees Fahrenheit. I even tried 45 minutes without success. I ended up just cutting the the edge of the headlamp assembly that surrounds the clear lens, and then to the oven at 250 for 10 minutes (don't forget to protect the under side of the headlamp by placing it over a wet towel or large pan or something) after that, the lip you cut, should just rip off easily and allow you to slowly start to pry off the lens off. If it starts to get harder to keep prying, just reheat it for 10 more minutes.
Remove the front bumper, grille, and headlamps
Projectors, ballasts, and shrouds. Note: I had to trim the top of the shroud a bit to make it fit nicely.
Headlamp with the lens removed
Here you can see factory vents on the housing.
I added another vent to be safe and prevent condensation, since there is added heat inside, I think... You can see the little hole drilled, bottom right.
These are the vent I glued in place.
Lenses removed
These projectors slide thru the hole where the low beam bulb used to be. A little trimming of the hole was necessary.
I painted the chrome inserts flat black while at it. Tape the chrome center section to avoid over spray.
The harness came complete with it own fuse, easy to hook up to the jump posts.
The relays that came with the harness.
Assemble it with the new Butyl weather sealant.
Before.
And the final result is.......
I hope this ends up helping someone.
BB