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HID projectors headlamp retrofit - DIY (picture heavy)

71K views 99 replies 42 participants last post by  REDGC2014 
#1 · (Edited)
This is my second post here, so I decided to make helpful to those seeking help. I was unable to find anyone that had tried to open the headlamp assemblies on the WK2 Grand Cherokees 2011 and up and retrofitted projector assemblies in them.
I went with aftermarket projectors because how much clearer and more light output they have over factory projectors

- I'm not responsible for any damage you may cause to your vehicle, do this at your own risk -

Parts list:

- Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini H1 4.1 projector assemblies, 2ea.
- Gatling gun 2.0 shroud assemblies, 2ea.
- Low beam wiring harness compatible with H8/H9/H11, 1ea.
- 55 watts, H1, 4500k color HID kit, DDMtuning, 1ea. (it comes with ballasts and light bulbs)
- Roll of 3M windo-weld ribbon Butyl sealer, 1ea.

I used this to seal the lens to the housing and also seal the bulb area. Put it around the bulb once it's in.




First, I couldn't find a way to open these headlamp assemblies because of the type of glue that Chrysler uses, everyone else uses Butyl, which softens right away once you apply heat for 10 minutes in the oven at 250 degrees Fahrenheit. I even tried 45 minutes without success. I ended up just cutting the the edge of the headlamp assembly that surrounds the clear lens, and then to the oven at 250 for 10 minutes (don't forget to protect the under side of the headlamp by placing it over a wet towel or large pan or something) after that, the lip you cut, should just rip off easily and allow you to slowly start to pry off the lens off. If it starts to get harder to keep prying, just reheat it for 10 more minutes.

Remove the front bumper, grille, and headlamps



Projectors, ballasts, and shrouds. Note: I had to trim the top of the shroud a bit to make it fit nicely.



Headlamp with the lens removed



Here you can see factory vents on the housing.




I added another vent to be safe and prevent condensation, since there is added heat inside, I think... You can see the little hole drilled, bottom right.



These are the vent I glued in place.



Lenses removed



These projectors slide thru the hole where the low beam bulb used to be. A little trimming of the hole was necessary.




I painted the chrome inserts flat black while at it. Tape the chrome center section to avoid over spray.



The harness came complete with it own fuse, easy to hook up to the jump posts.




The relays that came with the harness.



Assemble it with the new Butyl weather sealant.

Before.



And the final result is.......












I hope this ends up helping someone.

BB




 
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#3 · (Edited)
That is awesome and you did a wonderful job! I think this is the first retrofit I've seen on a non-HiD WK2.

If I were you, and for the sake of longevity, you should try to upgrade to a better HiD kit from either Xenon Depot or TRS as DDM isn't the greatest when it comes to kits you can buy.

DDM's ballasts aren't too bad but their bulbs are atrocious. TRS makes an awesome quality H1 bulb known as the "XB35" you should check out sometime.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=235
 
#26 ·
+ rep

I was considering buying a second pair of headlight and having them done by one of the retrofitters that TRS recommends.

I have had experience with the Valeo headlight housings from my touareg and I have not come up with a way to open one unless you cut the lip off like you did.
 
#30 ·
Hey Everyone!

I've been lurking on your forum drooling over the new Jeep WK2's and I can't wait to hopefully own one in about a year or so. Although I may not own a Jeep yet, I figured with my past and current retrofit experience, and knowledge, I could answer a few general questions or clarify things a bit more.

First off (I don't want to start this into a flame war), but this is the proper way to equip your vehicle with HID's so I commend the OP for doing this. Reflector housings and even halogen-projectors glare, and in some cases, a lot. I've seen past pictures and threads of people denying this, but it's the truth.

To the OP, great looking retrofit! I was pleasantly pleased to see you used the Gatling Gun 2.0 shrouds which helps to answer the question if the new FX-R 3.0's would fit or not.

To the first time retrofitter and/or someone with little knowledge in this department, I would suggest keeping it simple with the MH1 (Morimoto) projectors unless you have a separate set of lights to work on. Unlike some of the larger projectors 98% of the projector sits inside of the light itself which is then held on by a nut/bolt method. Fairly easy retrofit as generally the only cutting/modification is making the bulb access area slightly larger.

The user who mentioned the FX-R 3.0 losing width is correct. They concentrated on adding more foreground lighting and cleaning up the cutoff giving it the sharpest one I have seen to date. If you're worried about width (which in this case is very minimal) you can always rely on your foglights to do the trick. Previously I had the MH1's equipped in my car, sold them, and purchased the FX-R 3.0's a day or two after they came out. In my opinion, they're the best all-around BiXenon projector out there without spending $600+.

Unlike the MH1 retrofit, the FX-R 3.0s are not held in my a nut/bolt method nor is most of the projector sitting inside of the light (unless you get creative). From what I have seen there are two methods to mounting it; creating your own mounting brackets and/or using a high strength and high heat epoxy such as JB Weld. Size wise it is also substantially larger then the MH1 projectors. The mid-base can take up an entire light opening. On a bright note, I mentioned it was good news the OP use the Gatling Gun 2.0 shrouds as this is compatible with the the 3.0's. In my case the shroud became the most difficult part to integrate into the headlight housing.

Sorry if it looked like a lot of rambling but due to the little time the FX-R 3.0's have been out I figured I would clarify some things about them.

At this point I can't give any advice with cutting or wiring since I don't have the Jeep quite yet. I'd also like to apologize if I look like an idiot doing this. :lol:

Carry on!
 
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