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How To: remove rear tailgate bar...rear brow from a 2014!

8K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  Ron-Indy 
#1 ·
Here are the simple tools needed!
1 roll of painters tape
1 10 or 11mm socket and ratchet(forget which)
multiple trim sticks(choose best for you)
needle nose pliers
First...protect the finish of your painted hatch and plastic pieces with painters tape. pay special attention to where the large plastic cover meets the smaller upper piece. Cover the area around that with tape. The next step is the easiest...use the thin, L shaped trim tool to slide under the plastic trim and pop it down. The plastic trim is held on by push pins all around the perimeter of the cover. Just slowly pop them loose.
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Cover removed showing the yellow and blueish green push pins. Very easy to remove on my 14'
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Underside after panel removed. There will be two plugs for the small, round hatch lamps....just unsnap those.
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here you can see where the main harness for the lighbar has to be pushed through the hole. Then there are 10 or so nuts to remove all across the hatch area. Make sure to look for all of them. there are access holes for each bolt. There are also 2 white plastic push pins in the middle of the bar that need to be released. Very easy with the needle nose pliers.
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Last...on each end there is a small push pin type retainers under this plastic cover. The center of the retainer can be pulled out to reveal the rest of the pin...remove tha also. Then each hatch lamp is held on by 4 bolts. Remove bolts and unplus two small harnesses. Pull lamps straight out to remove.
After all this is done...the light bar can be carefully pushed out and removed.

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This is DONE! Now reverese the steps to install the new lightbar etc.
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#2 · (Edited)
Scott

I wished you had taken a photo of the light bar too. I wanted to see what the back of it looked like.
 
#5 ·
:jump:Thanks Scott
 
#8 ·
Hi Scott,

I'm trying to replace my rear chrome emblem to a black emblem. Im guessing this bar needs to come off to do so correct? Also, do the rear inner lights need to come off as well to take the bar off?

Nick
I would remove the inner tails
 
#7 ·
Hey Scott, thanks for directing me to this post. I was wondering if the brow itself (cover) could be removed only without all the other bits. I read on the WK model the brow could be removed by prying it from the outer edges then moving towards the centre, then cutting a few adhesive tabs to remove the brow altogether. I was hoping it would be the same with the WK2.
 
#9 ·
It looks like it could. ...but the design of the outer layer makes it look to be impossible to just pull off the painted portion
 
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#10 ·
Here are the simple tools needed!
1 roll of painters tape
1 10 or 11mm socket and ratchet(forget which)
multiple trim sticks(choose best for you)
needle nose pliers
First...protect the finish of your painted hatch and plastic pieces with painters tape. pay special attention to where the large plastic cover meets the smaller upper piece. Cover the area around that with tape. The next step is the easiest...use the thin, L shaped trim tool to slide under the plastic trim and pop it down. The plastic trim is held on by push pins all around the perimeter of the cover. Just slowly pop them loose.
View attachment 29139


Cover removed showing the yellow and blueish green push pins. Very easy to remove on my 14'
View attachment 29140



This is DONE! Now reverese the steps to install the new lightbar etc.
View attachment 29144
Thanks for the pics/info Scott! The above needs to be removed to replace the rear cargo light bulbs, correct? And I am a little confused on the read Jeep emblem...in another post you said it was adhered to the rear with tape and two studs (not bolts)...so I can just heat it up and remove, right? Just making sure I don't need to do all of your steps you did. Thanks in advance!
 
#12 ·
This thread was a great help, thank you Scott.

My 2 cents is to silicone spray the plastic prongs that lock the painted outer panel to the inner light bar before prying everything apart, carefully releasing the prongs one at a time. I used a small flat bladed screwdriver to spread the locking area around the prongs while using a pry tool or my fingers to put a bit of tension in between the panels.

I broke a few of the quite brittle prongs but once I sprayed the remainder, the rest released without a hitch.
 
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