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  #25  
Old 07-22-2013, 09:02 AM
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Re: Oil change DIY 3.6L step by step

Purolator filter is doing very well after 1.5k miles. But next time I'll pickup a few Mopar ones off eBay for about $7/piece. The Purolator was $13 before a coupon I had at Advanced Auto Parts.
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  #26  
Old 09-07-2013, 03:30 PM
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Re: Oil change DIY 3.6L step by step

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Originally Posted by Sponge Bob View Post
My dealer likes to gouge me any chance they get so I try to avoid buying OEM maintenance stuff when I know Chrysler does not make the item themselves. At the last oil change I used a WIX oil filter. I have not had any issues. Itís almost time for another change. If I see anything weird with the WIX filter I remove I will post details. I also like the fact that WIX says "Made in USA".
how was the wix filter? what is the wix model number you used?
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  #27  
Old 09-07-2013, 03:44 PM
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Re: Oil change DIY 3.6L step by step

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Originally Posted by AAAA View Post
The first one is included in the price. So drive to the dealer, eat their donuts, drink their coffee, read their newpaper and watch their TV. Done!
Mines isn't. I even asked about it.
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  #28  
Old 09-07-2013, 04:00 PM
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Re: Oil change DIY 3.6L step by step

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Originally Posted by kkreit01 View Post
I didn't have that darn 15/16" when i did mine a few weeks ago. Luckily, a 1" worked -- since it's not very tight. IIRC, I used a 13mm on the drain plug?
Exactly what sizes I used the other morning.

My '13 JGC has Quadra-Lift; on the highest setting, I can slide under to drain the oil.
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  #29  
Old 09-07-2013, 04:06 PM
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Re: Oil change DIY 3.6L step by step

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Originally Posted by fljeepleo View Post
Is everybody using the Mopar oil filters or has anybody switched to the Wix or other brands?
Wix, #57526. Engine airfilter # is 49756.

I left my big, ugly 'engine cover' off.
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  #30  
Old 09-15-2013, 04:49 PM
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Re: Oil change DIY 3.6L step by step

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Originally Posted by Yadkin View Post
Read your owner's manual- it takes 6 quarts. What I do is put in a half-quart less, start the engine and let it idle for a minute to circulate the oil, then clean up my bench and work area. Then I check the oil level and pour in enough to get right in the middle of the correct range.
I just put in what the manual says and never look at the dip stick. If it says 6 qt's, put in 6 qt's. If your dip stick reads otherwise, it's the dip stick. Takes a while to soak oil into filter. Get air out etc. I would not trust the dip stick immediately after filling (a day later with over night cool down you'll get an accurate reading). Or just put in 6 qts.

Keep in mind these engines are rated for extreme grades. A little over or under won't hurt it.

If it said 5.8 qt's I'd probably dump in 6 qt's. You're talking a 1/4" it's not gonna make or break anything.
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  #31  
Old 09-16-2013, 08:23 AM
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Re: Oil change DIY 3.6L step by step

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Originally Posted by mswlogo View Post
I just put in what the manual says and never look at the dip stick. If it says 6 qt's, put in 6 qt's. If your dip stick reads otherwise, it's the dip stick. Takes a while to soak oil into filter. Get air out etc. I would not trust the dip stick immediately after filling (a day later with over night cool down you'll get an accurate reading). Or just put in 6 qts.

Keep in mind these engines are rated for extreme grades. A little over or under won't hurt it.

If it said 5.8 qt's I'd probably dump in 6 qt's. You're talking a 1/4" it's not gonna make or break anything.
Having too high a level in the pan, as when you dump all six in a dry engine and then start it, cold cause the crankshaft to dip into the oil and foam it up. Better to have slightly low then high. I always end up putting 6 qts in anyway, but the dip stick is a double-check that I have done exactly that.
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