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Quadralift lowering/leveling/lifting Links DIY

107K views 158 replies 58 participants last post by  cadman777 
#1 · (Edited)
So I finally ordered the parts to make my own adjustable air links. The Adjustable Air Ride links were just too expensive to stomach, so I figured I'd make my own. I also didn't want to tear apart the stock links, and nobody seemed to be able to find the stock links for sale anywhere. So DIY it is!

Tools needed: hack saw, ruler, pliers/vice grips, 8mm wrench for jam nuts

The balls where the links attach on the Jeep are 8mm, so you need ends to fit, then threaded rod to join them and make it adjustable. Grainger turned out to have everything I needed. You can get threaded rod anywhere, but it was just as easy to order it online with the link ends.

Ball sockets (p/n 6UDU1):
http://www.grainger.com/product/BANSBACH-EASYLIFT-8mm-Ball-Socket-22mm-M5-Thread-6UDU1

Threaded rod - M5 (p/n 21YP35)
GRAINGER APPROVED Threaded Rod,316 SS,M5-0.80x1 M - Threaded Rods - 21YP35|57491 - Grainger Industrial Supply

The ball sockets already come with jam nuts to go on the 5mm threaded rod. Pull the balls out of the socket and toss em or put them aside. Cut the threaded rod to whatever length you want after threading the jam nuts on. Thread on the ball sockets and you have adjustable links. To lower the rear end and level it out with the front, make the rear links 3.25" long (stock is 3.5").

Basically I made two leveling links to bring the rear of the jeep down for $50 shipped. Took me 15 minutes to figure out a good length, cut two pieces of threaded rod, and tighten the links up. If I wanted to make links for the front, I just order 4 more ball sockets and use the rest of the threaded rod.

My plan for the winter is to put the stock links back on the rear, then cut longer pieces of threaded rod so I can put these links on the front to raise it slightly and level it out the opposite way. Gives me a tad higher ride height for the snow or whatever.

I forgot to take a pic of the links before install, but here's what it looks like on the jeep:



PS: Don't forget to lower the headlight beams a bit to compensate for changing the angle of the jeep. Since I lowered the rear end, it brought the headlight cutoff up quite a bit. Enough for me to get flashed multiple times on the way home. Easy vertical adjustment on the headlights fixed that problem.
 
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#75 ·
Just a follow up to yesterday's post...


I got back on the phone yesterday afternoon, and contacted SPC Performance again, and was able to talk with one of their techs, about the camber adjustment plate that they make, especially with respect to being able to adjust camber, especially for lowered vehicles.

He clarified that their kit will now allow for more camber adjustment range, as you're limited by the length of the existing slots in the frame. Their kit, however, will make it easier to make the adjustments, within that range.

A couple of other things that he mentioned, however, is that to his observations in the field, that many trucks, and possibly GCs, have a pretty stable camber curve, and moderate lowering won't take you out of the range of adjustment, as provided by the factory mounting poins.

More importantly, he also mentioned that he was under the impression that SPC is working on a "hub/brake caliper shim kit", that would bolt in between the hub and spindle, altering the camber by a set amount. Shims would also be included, to keep the brake calipers in proper relationship to the rotors. This type of kit would provide a fixed amount of change, that would hopefully get your GC back to a point where the OE adjustment slots would again be usable, to set the camber.
 
#77 ·
I put the links on a day ago. Went real smooth. I used the Zoro ends. They seem fine, just not quite as tight as the OE links. Has anyone had a problem with them popping off and it also seems like every time I measured it it is .25" off somewhere. I measured it in my garage and driveway. Do any of the folks who have done this mod see the change? It may be normal, I'm just curious.
 
#78 ·
The ends i have haven't had any problems popping off. I just ordered the same ones that were mentioned at the beginning of this thread. They also came with little retaining pins that would lock the ball in if you were having problems. I kept the pins but haven't used them as I never had any issues.
 
#79 ·
The ends i have haven't had any problems popping off. I just ordered the same ones that were mentioned at the beginning of this thread. They also came with little retaining pins that would lock the ball in if you were having problems. I kept the pins but haven't used them as I never had any issues.

I was wondering about them, too. In the first pictures that were shown in this thread, these were not in place, and I was wondering if the natural friction of the socket itself, was keeping the ends snapped on to the pins. I was also wondering why the pins that come as part of the joints, weren't being used. Are they a different diameter than the OE pins?
 
#81 ·
hello i have a oveeland 2014 v8 hemi i put borla exhaut and another accesories and now i want to low my jeep gc. i have a grainger nese of my home and i bought the stufs and i did the links 5 front and 3 for the rear i put on my jeep but i dnont what is happpen but i cant stay in aero the jeep automatic raise again and i cut a put the links in other sizes but sometimes stay up in front and low rear now im fine because i slow but i take the suspension fuse out and stay low ?. some body know what is the exactly size or what i have to do?
 
#91 · (Edited)
today i made a rear pair

came out great

i went to a local gas strut repair place got the ends 8mm the fit perfectly

got some rod and nuts 6mm rod

long story short it cost me $5 all up as the ends were given to me for free!!!


very very happy with the outcome

i also have the LLAMS kit too, but wanted it to be a certain way i have that now, the looks i want whilst being practically stock

got enough rod to make a few more sets and the ends next time will cost me $1 each




I should mention that link is the wrong socket size

The 8mm socket link looks exactly the same but the hole is 2mm smaller
 
#96 ·
So i made these links, threw them on and looked great (and level), i go away to fork for 2 weeks and come home to find my left shock leaking. I take vehicle in to shop to find out my warranty had expired roughly 3 weeks before this. And my extended warranty i bought didn't cover it either. So that was cool, anyways I'm just wondering if this is a coincidence? I've read up on shocks leaking on the wk2's but its only got 46k km on it.
 
#100 ·
Anyone punch out a 2018 yet? I'm pulling my links this weekend to measure my balls to see if they are still 8mm and ordering sockets and rod.

Side question. Knowing that entry/exit adjusts even after the car has sat for a bit, do I need to set the suspension to any certain setting before pulling rods?
 
#104 ·
So these DIY links are working on the 2016 and up with the redesigned OEM links?
From what i've heard from a couple of people you can't lower more than an inch on 2016+ if you wanna keep the compressor from not continuing to run in entry/exit mode?
 
#116 ·
So I finally made a set of these links and installed them on my 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland High Altitude.
I can confirm they do work, but you don't have as much height adjustment as in the 2014-2015. Seems the front is more sensitive than the rear.
Anyway, I got mine down about 1.25" on all four corners, any more I was getting the service air suspension in park/entry mode.
 
#117 ·
So I finally made a set of these links and installed them on my 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland High Altitude.
I can confirm they do work, but you don't have as much height adjustment as in the 2014-2015. Seems the front is more sensitive than the rear.
Anyway, I got mine down about 1.25" on all four corners, any more I was getting the service air suspension in park/entry mode.
do you know your exact measurements for the rears and possible the fronts? I have some installed fronts look good but my rears I want to come down a bit more
 
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