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Roof rack Cross Bar Mounting Process

73K views 79 replies 56 participants last post by  ljramsey 
#1 ·
I'll do my best to lay this out, not hard but there are some things that will make it go much smoother. You will find this all easier if you have a second person.

1) There are 2 bars (Hi, I'm captain obvious) but one is for the rear and one is for the front. They also have stickers on them stating which one goes where. Make sure they face the correct direction or you will have wind noise.

2) There are rubber strips that will be attached to the tops of the rails; MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THE LENGTH OF EACH STRIP! THEY ARE DIFFERENT LENGTHS. THE BARS ARE NOT THE SAME LENGTH. Don't do what I did and have to start all over because I miss-matched them. The trick to these is to get the channel on the bottom locked on one side then use your thumb to push them into the bar. Leave about 3 inches at each end to have access to the screws.

3) Back the screws off about as far as they will go, if you hold the bracket in your hands as you do this you will see the mounting bracket lips drop below the bracket housing. Once you get these to drop as far as they will go you are ready to attach to the bars. Until you drop these lips down you will not be able to get it to click into the mounting track on the Jeep. I would suggest using a piece of cardboard or something to protect the panoramic sun roof (If you have it) The allen wrench flew out of my hands once and it hit the glass, nothing happened but spooked me.

4) Once you have the lips from the mounting bracket locked into place you need to make sure that the bar is centered right to left, (This is where a second person will come in handy) if it is off set one way or the other when you tighten the screws the mounting block will be pulled over. If you do this back the screw off and center rack bar so mounting blocks sit flush on the roof track when tightened down.

5) once you have it centered and tightened down push the ends of the rubber strip down at the ends and you should be all set.

Sorry I don’t have pictures of the assembly process.
 
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#3 · (Edited)
Sorry I don’t have pictures of the assembly process.
I got your back, wjs81866!!

Notwithstanding the valid concerns of some of our fellow JG'ers, I decided that the Mopar roof rails would meet my needs in terms of utility and security, and that they suited my taste the best in terms of looks. Hat tip to Mashie for sharing some detailed photos of his install with me as I was researching my options. As you will see, I also relied heavily on 81866's excellent writeup.:thumbsup:

Went out in a light DC snowfall this morning to get the rails at a local dealer. Took the WJ so that the WK2 would be warm and dry when I returned for the install. It was an enjoyable and satisfying DIY project that anyone can handle.

Commentary by photo #:

1. I threw this pic in just for fun. I had zero need for any of the tools but the hot coffee came in handy in my cold garage and I had dialed up this thread on my iPad to refer to 81866's walkthrough. Plus, I had the workmate set up from my recent repair project on the garage door extension springs detailed elsewhere. Props to JeepGarage. (oh yeah, my stepladder was a big help; not pictured)

2. The components come fully assembled (I removed the non-photogenic plastic from the 4 towers for this shot). I add my vote to the consensus that the printed "instructions" do nothing to edify the first-time installer. I benefitted from the advice here about the differing lengths of the rubber strips that fit into the top of each rail. Someone mentioned a touch of WD-40 to ease their insertion but I decided to go w/o lube. :eek: I found that alternating thumb presses from either side just above the rubber ridges worked to get them to drop into the slot.

3. Yes, the labeling makes the placement and orientation of the rails foolproof.

4. The screw that drops the mounting bracket into installation position is the one to the outboard end of the crossbar (the inboard screw tightens the crossbar to the tower itself but the assembly ships with some play in the connection to allow for positioning. I had no need to adjust that inboard screw at this step). There is no reason that I could see to back that outboard screw out any further than flush with its fixed retainer, as shown.

5. Note the rubber gasket where the tower meets the chrome roof rail. Make sure it is pressed up into place or it will interfere with a proper fit.

6. I tightened the two screws in back and forth fashion with a slight priority given to the inboard screw (the one that clamps the crossbar to the tower). I found that grasping the tower as shown allowed me to torque it into alignment as I tightened it down. I don't have the tools to measure the force I used to tighten these screws. The inboard screw will tighten to a firm stop and I used common sense on the outboard screw.

7. I chose to install the two crossbars at max spread (front to back) on the rails. I may have to adjust the rear crossbar forward depending on the ski rack that I end up with and how the ski overhang interacts with the liftgate when opened. Note that the outside view makes it look like the tower is mounted forward of its rearmost position, but if you look across you can see that it is in fact back all the way. The roof rails' black trimcaps curve in and create this illusion.

8. The inexplicable "lock" design. The lock has no other purpose than to prevent the removal of the end caps. The simple addition of a longer strip of metal would prevent access to the two critical screws even if a thief tore off the rubber strip. If my security needs increase I may have to re-engineer the "lock" to accomplish this. I was shaking my head as I took this photo. :confused:

9. I am very happy with the finished install! I prefer the aviation-style wing look to round crossbars. The Mopar setup adds an understated sportiness and completes the athletic look of the WK2 IMO. I tugged pretty vigorously on the finished product and can report that it feels like it is welded to the roof. No junk whatsoever.

I took way longer than is necessary on this project as I enjoyed my coffee and decided which steps warranted photos and comments. Questions welcomed and thanks again to our OP wjs81866. Any redundancy with his writeup is due to my OCD/overkill tendencies and is not a reflection on his effort!
 

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#28 ·
I just orderd these myself !:rolleyes: Great post , did you noticed any wind noise ? and would you happen to know the load cap?
Thanks!:thumbsup:
 
#4 ·
Man, thanks for this thread! I was starting to question my intelligence due to being unable to install these! Mopar's instructions for every product make me want to rip my hair out..


I'm cruisin' in a 2012 Mineral Grey Jeep Grand Cherokee X Series w/ the Black Leather Interior...God, I love this ride
 
#13 ·
Just ordered the same ones. Gotta have some way to haul and 11'0" SUP board. The description said it was for 2011 models, but that's the same as the 2012, isn't it? Can't imagine it's different.

It was a heck of a score over full retail on those things! :cool:
 
#7 ·
Its a bit of a process as there is a key lock to deal with and a couple screws to lossen and tighten, perhaps 15 minutes.
 
#9 ·
So I wish I did not rush the install as it was easy except I didn't realize that the bars where two differnt lengths. Long and short the rubber strip was too long so I thought it needed to be cut. AHHHHHH My bad. Now I have one too short. How do I buy a replacement part? I have looked online everywhere with no luck.
 
#29 ·
Also, having looked for both bike and kayak racks to mount here - none that I can find use the t-slot available behind the locks - but just bolt or clamp on the crossbars. Again, what am I missing??
Thanks for the post. One question. Can the T Slot be used to mount a ski rack and if so, what happens to the rubber insert when the rack is mounted? Sort of two questions but thanks in a advance.
These load-bars/cross-bars are apparently OEM from Thule (according to a brief post in another thread). They do work with the Thule T-Track/T-Slot adapter kits. I have seen suggestions to poke holes in the rubber cover (kind of defeats the purpose of a quick in/out with a T-Track) or cut the strip short. I chose to cut mine, as I want to be able to remove my Bike carrier quickly (clone/OEM of the Thule Criterium).

FYI, a non-branded version of these bars is available on eBay. I paid $160 with free shipping. The bike carrier sold for $78 with free shipping. These are both Chinese manufactured and imported into the US in bulk by resellers.

Everything fits well! The bars are silent at highway speeds without the carrier. The carrier adds a small whistle over 35mph without a bike. Cutting the cover strips to fit the reduced track length somewhat reduced the whistle.
 
#15 ·
Installed this weekend. Pretty easy especially taking the forum tips in mind. There is a little wind noise at freeway speeds but nothing severe. If you need the bars for utility purposes I wouldn't shy away from them. All told I approve.
 
#16 ·
One thing to note; I installed mine exactlly as the sticker on them stated "Forward". They howled over 30mph. It turns out mopar must not train their assemblers properly because mine were backward. I reversed them and no noise at all; even doing 80mph. Remember they shape should look like an airplane wing going into the wind; long narrower end pointed back.
 
#17 ·
Just picked up a 2012 JGC Overland. Added the rails to carry a cargo box <read Sears xCargo 20>. BTW no need to spend $400+ for Yak or Thule.

Anyway. Just looked at my install and I followed the directions... then saw this thread and pictures to learn why my bars are howling @ >20MPH.

Back to the garage after it cools down.

Question for the group. Anyone have a picture shooting from the top? Would like to see "skid strip" placement - as it was noted one is shorter than the other..

Thanks!
 
#20 ·
First, I would like to thank both wjs81866 and Cperez for their invaluable posts on this subject. I am not an uneducated person and not totally inexperienced in mechanical things, but I will admit that until I read these, I was just about stumped by the Mopar instructions. These made it possible to get the cross bars installed without significant increased blood pressure medication. Also, while I was glad to read, prior to installing, that the racks and accompanying rubber strips were different lengths and to beware of this - the strips were still BOTH too long and needed to be trimmed. Not hard, but why not made to fit? Also, the included allen wrench didn't fit the bolts. Thought it was just me at first - but no - it actually was the wrong size. Ok, grab my set and that worked fine.

However, after getting the crossbars on, I still have observations and questions.

One, I fail to understand the value of the locks on these. After fully installed, I could pull the rubber strip out on each end and with an allen wrench have the entire rack and it's contents off the jeep in under 2 minutes. What am I missing here?? Also, having looked for both bike and kayak racks to mount here - none that I can find use the t-slot available behind the locks - but just bolt or clamp on the crossbars. Again, what am I missing??

My goal is to have a set of kayaks on the jeep that are both secure from falling and secure from other's that think they want them more than me. All appropriate suggestions are welcome.
 
#49 ·
First, I would like to thank both wjs81866 and Cperez for their invaluable posts on this subject. I am not an uneducated person and not totally inexperienced in mechanical things, but I will admit that until I read these, I was just about stumped by the Mopar instructions. These made it possible to get the cross bars installed without significant increased blood pressure medication. Also, while I was glad to read, prior to installing, that the racks and accompanying rubber strips were different lengths and to beware of this - the strips were still BOTH too long and needed to be trimmed. Not hard, but why not made to fit? Also, the included allen wrench didn't fit the bolts. Thought it was just me at first - but no - it actually was the wrong size. Ok, grab my set and that worked fine. However, after getting the crossbars on, I still have observations and questions. One, I fail to understand the value of the locks on these. After fully installed, I could pull the rubber strip out on each end and with an allen wrench have the entire rack and it's contents off the jeep in under 2 minutes. What am I missing here?? Also, having looked for both bike and kayak racks to mount here - none that I can find use the t-slot available behind the locks - but just bolt or clamp on the crossbars. Again, what am I missing?? My goal is to have a set of kayaks on the jeep that are both secure from falling and secure from other's that think they want them more than me. All appropriate suggestions are welcome.
I took delivery of my GJC with the sports roof racks installed. But when it came to fit kayak cradles I could not find a brand which fitted neatly. I ended up buying Rhino-Rack 570s but they are not exactly a neat fit and the screws are too long. A further problem is the racks are spaced too close together for carrying a performance kayak or surf ski and there was even a sticker on the side back window warning against this practice. Now a SUV which can't be used to carry a kayak? That's disappointing. Surely it could not have been that difficult to engineer a more flexible sports roof rack system with a capacity to space the racks further apart.
 
#21 ·
First, I would like to thank both wjs81866 and Cperez for their invaluable posts on this subject. I am not an uneducated person and not totally inexperienced in mechanical things, but I will admit that until I read these, I was just about stumped by the Mopar instructions. These made it possible to get the cross bars installed without significant increased blood pressure medication. Also, while I was glad to read, prior to installing, that the racks and accompanying rubber strips were different lengths and to beware of this - the strips were still BOTH too long and needed to be trimmed. Not hard, but why not made to fit? Also, the included allen wrench didn't fit the bolts. Thought it was just me at first - but no - it actually was the wrong size. Ok, grab my set and that worked fine.

However, after getting the crossbars on, I still have observations and questions.

One, I fail to understand the value of the locks on these. After fully installed, I could pull the rubber strip out on each end and with an allen wrench have the entire rack and it's contents off the jeep in under 2 minutes. What am I missing here?? Also, having looked for both bike and kayak racks to mount here - none that I can find use the t-slot available behind the locks - but just bolt or clamp on the crossbars. Again, what am I missing??

My goal is to have a set of kayaks on the jeep that are both secure from falling and secure from others that think they want them more than me. All appropriate suggestions are welcome.
 
#23 ·
OK, but somthing seems to be missing & I can't seem to find out what's the part name is, "roof rails"? the black plastic trim pieces that run length wise on each side of my G-C Laredo obviously cannot be the attachment points for the Mopar cross members I just bought, I literally can't find out what the proper replacement rails are called or where to get them! Please help, this should not be this much of a pain. Thanks
 
#25 ·
I purchased a set of OEM cross bars off of Ebay and was able to install fairly easy. Blunt side facing forward as you all say to do. I had no problem with keeping the rubber strips with corresponding cross bar. However, in measuring and reading the thread knew that the bars were different sizes. Now that they are on the vehicle I am not sure the correct one is forward. As is the shorter bar is in front and longer in rear. Can someone confirm if this correct. The instructions were vague and bars were not labled front and rear. Thanks.
 
#30 ·
Same question, long bar or short bar in the front? Picked up a set of the replicas and they dont have the stickers on them. Thanks.
 
#26 · (Edited)
I know my Thule 47" Aeroblades have more excess past the feet on the rear bar than on the front bar. So I would guess that the longer bar goes in front.
 
#31 ·
I just installed the OEM cross bars on my 2013 Summit about an hour ago. I think the guys at the factory got my stickers on correctly (thin edge toward rear). I just measured and the longer cross bar (47") is on the front and the shorter cross bar (46") is on the rear. I haven't had a chance to check for wind noise yet.
 
#32 ·
Thanks for the pictures. I had the dealer install my roof rails and the noise was unbearable. After looking at your pictures I took them off and reinstalled them in the opposite direction. That solved the noise problem. Thanks for the help. (The stickers with the forward arrow must have been put on backwards)
 
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