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WK2 Front Tow Hook Installation (pic heavy)

262K views 287 replies 161 participants last post by  CliffTX512 
#1 ·
We've talked about it before, and tonight I went and did it- I had purchased the hooks, and decided to give it a go myself. I also documented the process with photos so you all can get an idea of how hard it is.

Here's the parts:


Tools required are basically just a 3/8" drive metric socket set, a 30mm wrench (I had a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket), and a small screwdriver for pulling out small clips.

You begin by removing the lower front fascia. You pull the 7 quarter turn fasteners as referenced in in the manual, but there's a bunch of clips between the fascia and the bumper cover, so it neither comes off nor goes back on as easily as you'd think.

You do need to separate the lower trim piece from that fascia in order to remove the knockouts for the hooks.

Here's what those knockouts look like from the backside:


And the front end without the fascia:


Now, you will have to remove the splash shield under the front end. NOT the skid plate, but the thin plastic splash guard in front of the axle. Easy enough.

Also, all the needed holes are indeed present and tapped where necessary. Witness the passenger side location for the hook bracket:


The bracket just bolts right up:


At this point comes really the only difficult part of the install. You need to insert the nuts into the front frame rail (not too hard- there's an easy opening on both sides), but then you'll also have to put the spacer bracket, the hook, and the bolts in at the same time. It would be easier if you had 3 hands (and if they're smaller than my huge mitts). Tightening those front bolts isn't the easiest thing, since you need to apply some friction to those nuts to keep them from turning in the frame.

But I got it done:


And a rear view:


Installation on both sides is quite similar.



And all back together:


Total time spent: about 1.5 hours.
 
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#6 ·
nice writeup!
 
#11 ·
Great write up. None of the vehicles I'm looking at (yes, STILL haven't pulled the trigger) have tow hooks and I'd like to have those.
 
#16 ·
jonesark they look very nice in chrome. The only concern is if you ever use them, the chrome will be scraped off and then you have a rusty mess; think about what a trailer hitch ball looks like after a use or two and some weathering. At least black tow hooks can be touched up when scraped and kept looking new.
 
#18 ·
jonesark they look very nice in chrome. The only concern is if you ever use them, the chrome will be scraped off and then you have a rusty mess; think about what a trailer hitch ball looks like after a use or two and some weathering. At least black tow hooks can be touched up when scraped and kept looking new.
I thought about that....but it looks so good!
 
#17 · (Edited)
Techno, or anyone else who has done this, can you please tell me in which holes you used the longer bolts/washers?

It looks like the longer of the two bolts from Techo's first photo go into the front spacer brackets and spacers at the front of the two hooks?

If that is correct then the shorter bolts put the main mounting bracket directly to the frame?

Thanks in advance. All 8 of my bolts are 16mm heads so it's not as clear from the instructions.

Suggestion: have or get a 30mm deep socket for main bolt. BTW, I hate these gotdamned plastic rivets and connectors that attach exterior fascia and interior panels to everything.
 
#19 ·
Captain Obvious can now confirm the longer bolts go into the front holes, spacers, and spacer brackets towards the front of the hooks. Shorter bolts mount the main brackets to the frame.

If anyone doubts the German influence by Benz, note the metric nuts and bolts on an American vehicle. There's also plenty of made in Germany stickers underneath.
 
#23 ·
I bought mine from here.

They're steel, so they're heavy, which means you will pay a decent amount for shipping. I was amused that they put a "fragile" sticker on the box (yeah, they're rated to 1.5x vehicle weight, but don't drop them). I was more amused that UPS had apparently played kickball with said box and managed to knock a hole in it (everything was still inside though).
 
#27 ·
Anyone know if the adaptive cruise control sensor has a plug to facilitate removal of the lower air dam for offroading??
 
#28 ·
I'm not sure what you mean. The adaptive cruise sensor is not located on the lower fascia. If you pull that fascia, the adaptive cruise sensor stays on the vehicle. Now, the owner's manual DOES tell you how to remove the sensor- if you pull the fascia, that sensor is out there by it's lonesome and likely to get busted, so it would be wise to remove it as well.
 
#35 ·
Ok. I just don't want to mess my baby up so I'm asking a dumb question. Anyone figured out how to get those rivot push pins out without damaging anything? this is a link to buy one, anyone know how to get this out without damage?

http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=61777
Stick a smaller flathead screwdriver under the center section. Pry it up and pull it out about a half inch or so. Then you can remove the entire thing.

They're a LOT harder to wreck than you'd think.
 
#37 · (Edited)
I installed the tow hooks yesterday on my Laredo X...what a PITA and a poor design for installation. The cover plate (J) that goes into the frame rail and the threaded Hex Nut (I), this is the one the longer bolts that go thread into, they could have been welded together which would have assisted with the install . If they had been welded together you could have just slid the cover plate(J) and the nuts (I) as one piece into the frame rail and dropped them into the two available holes. This would have assisted in the ability to tighten the longer bolts (E) into the plate since their is no way to wrench the nuts that are in the frame rail. I am not sure what the purpose of the spacer bracket (H) really does other that help hold the spacer (G) up against the frame to allow you to slide the tow hook into the tow hook bracket before you slide and tighten the longer bolts (E). The spacer bracket (H) is temporarily held by double sided tape until you get the longer bolts (E) tightened and then serves no purpose after that that I can see. Anyhow I now have tow hooks....hope to never need them but they are there if needed. A little hint is to run the bolts (H) into the Hex Nuts (I) all the way thru the threads to make sure they thread easily. When tightening bolt (H) mine bound up and I had to back them out and start over after I ran the bolts thru the threads...Hope that makes sense. OH...and I love my GC !!!!
 
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