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  #121  
Old 01-11-2014, 07:07 AM
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Re: ENFORCER'S Oil Change Guide for a 2011 VM Motori CRD

bump for any new owners
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  #122  
Old 06-03-2014, 06:16 AM
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Re: ENFORCER'S Oil Change Guide for a 2011 VM Motori CRD

Just did my first oil and filter change on the WK2 MY12. It was a piece of cake thanks to Enforcer's excellent guide. Isn't it great how smooth a car runs after having done one's own oil change and knowing it was done right. I put the Quadralift up to ORII and that was enough for me to get underneath. Mine also used 8.1L to the max line as did Enforcer's. I noticed these filters don't have a by-pass valve. Perhaps these days the valve is in the engine.

A few of suggestions:
  1. I prefer to change the filter after draining the sump but before putting back the sump plug. That gives the engine more time to drain and also allows some of the oil in filter housing to drain. In the old days I would go and have a cup of tea to let the sump fully drain.
  2. An 8mm ring spanner is useful to fully tighten the hose clamps.
  3. I agree, the plastic filter housing cover shouldn't be tightened too much. Finger tight plus 1/4 turn felt about right to me.
  4. I like to use the black nitrile work gloves. They save burning fingers on the drain plug besides they keep one's pinkies nice and clean. They are great for when hand packing trailer bearings. They don't last long but a pack of 20 costs only about $6.
  5. Ensure your sump oil container is big enough to easily take 8L. My old K-mart oil change basin was only just big enough which meant I sloshed quite a bit of oil on the driveway when I moved it.
  6. Considering the difficulty some have had removing the drain plug the first time, I invested in an 8mm hex key with a 1/2" drive. I would avoid attempting to do it with just an 8mm Allen key.
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  #123  
Old 06-03-2014, 06:18 AM
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Re: ENFORCER'S Oil Change Guide for a 2011 VM Motori CRD

Just did my first oil and filter change on the WK2 MY12. It was a piece of cake thanks to Enforcer's excellent guide. Isn't it great how smooth a car runs after having done one's own oil change and knowing it was done right (Mobile 1 ESP of course). I put the Quadralift up to ORII and that was enough for me to get underneath. Mine also used 8.1L to the max line as did Enforcer's. I noticed these filters don't have a by-pass valve. Perhaps these days the valve is in the engine.

A few of suggestions:
  1. I prefer to change the filter after draining the sump but before putting back the sump plug. That gives the engine more time to drain and also allows some of the oil in filter housing to drain. In the old days I would go and have a cup of tea to let the sump fully drain.
  2. An 8mm ring spanner is useful to fully tighten the hose clamps.
  3. I agree, the plastic filter housing cover shouldn't be tightened too much. Finger tight plus 1/4 turn felt about right to me.
  4. I like to use the black nitrile work gloves. They save burning fingers on the drain plug besides they keep one's pinkies nice and clean. They are great for when hand packing trailer bearings. They don't last long but a pack of 20 costs only about $6.
  5. Ensure your sump oil container is big enough to easily take 8L. My old K-mart oil change basin was only just big enough which meant I sloshed quite a bit of oil on the driveway when I moved it.
  6. Considering the difficulty some have had removing the drain plug the first time, I invested in an 8mm hex key with a 1/2" drive. I would avoid attempting to do it with just an 8mm Allen key.
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Ordered 9 Nov 2011 - Delivered 3:30pm Friday 13 April 2012
Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 3L CRD, Black Forest Green Pearl, Quadra-lift, Off-road Adventure II, Front Recovery Hook, Mopar Tow Bar, Mopar Rock Rails, 150A Projecta Battery Isolator, Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller, Bridgestone D697 265/60R18 LT, Kimberley Kamper Special Edition
MudMap M7 off/on road sat nav, Chief front recovery hooks "chrome", Chief 3mm bash plate
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