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ENFORCER'S Oil Change Guide for a 2011 VM Motori CRD

34K views 122 replies 37 participants last post by  BobT 
#1 ·
I changed the oil in My 2011 Australian Spec CRD today and did a full write up with pictures for everyone to enjoy. Please do not try this at home if you are not familiar with this type of work.
I am open to questions or comments on how it can be improved.
 

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#107 ·
#109 ·
They cannot void your warranty for going to a non dealer for service.
If they use approved parts and oil, they cannot make that claim or they will be in deep shit.
 
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#122 ·
Just did my first oil and filter change on the WK2 MY12. It was a piece of cake thanks to Enforcer's excellent guide. Isn't it great how smooth a car runs after having done one's own oil change and knowing it was done right. I put the Quadralift up to ORII and that was enough for me to get underneath. Mine also used 8.1L to the max line as did Enforcer's. I noticed these filters don't have a by-pass valve. Perhaps these days the valve is in the engine.

A few of suggestions:

  1. I prefer to change the filter after draining the sump but before putting back the sump plug. That gives the engine more time to drain and also allows some of the oil in filter housing to drain. In the old days I would go and have a cup of tea to let the sump fully drain.
  2. An 8mm ring spanner is useful to fully tighten the hose clamps.
  3. I agree, the plastic filter housing cover shouldn't be tightened too much. Finger tight plus 1/4 turn felt about right to me.
  4. I like to use the black nitrile work gloves. They save burning fingers on the drain plug besides they keep one's pinkies nice and clean. They are great for when hand packing trailer bearings. They don't last long but a pack of 20 costs only about $6.
  5. Ensure your sump oil container is big enough to easily take 8L. My old K-mart oil change basin was only just big enough which meant I sloshed quite a bit of oil on the driveway when I moved it.
  6. Considering the difficulty some have had removing the drain plug the first time, I invested in an 8mm hex key with a 1/2" drive. I would avoid attempting to do it with just an 8mm Allen key.
 
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#123 ·
Just did my first oil and filter change on the WK2 MY12. It was a piece of cake thanks to Enforcer's excellent guide. Isn't it great how smooth a car runs after having done one's own oil change and knowing it was done right (Mobile 1 ESP of course). I put the Quadralift up to ORII and that was enough for me to get underneath. Mine also used 8.1L to the max line as did Enforcer's. I noticed these filters don't have a by-pass valve. Perhaps these days the valve is in the engine.

A few of suggestions:

  1. I prefer to change the filter after draining the sump but before putting back the sump plug. That gives the engine more time to drain and also allows some of the oil in filter housing to drain. In the old days I would go and have a cup of tea to let the sump fully drain.
  2. An 8mm ring spanner is useful to fully tighten the hose clamps.
  3. I agree, the plastic filter housing cover shouldn't be tightened too much. Finger tight plus 1/4 turn felt about right to me.
  4. I like to use the black nitrile work gloves. They save burning fingers on the drain plug besides they keep one's pinkies nice and clean. They are great for when hand packing trailer bearings. They don't last long but a pack of 20 costs only about $6.
  5. Ensure your sump oil container is big enough to easily take 8L. My old K-mart oil change basin was only just big enough which meant I sloshed quite a bit of oil on the driveway when I moved it.
  6. Considering the difficulty some have had removing the drain plug the first time, I invested in an 8mm hex key with a 1/2" drive. I would avoid attempting to do it with just an 8mm Allen key.
 
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