Don't know if this is necessary but here is a short how to/guide for removing some of the interior switches to be shipped to Bob for the LED upgrade. This is a 2005 WK.
Excuse my crusty hands. I use them very hard to make a living. Also, excuse my long finger nails. My hair and finger nails grow like weeds. However, my finger nails come in handy when working with small wires, electrical components, ect, ect but I do not keep them on purpose.
Remove the negative terminal from your battery first.
For the switches in the front doors, people might tell you to pop the bezels out but doing so will result in broken tabs. That can lead to a loose bezel. Especially due to opening and closing the door.
Broken tab below.
The best way to do it is to remove the whole door panel. It doesn't take much time to do so.
Remove all three screws (there is a hidden screw underneath the rubber mat inside the upper handle.
At the bottom of all the doors, there is an open slot for you to stick your tool in and work your way around to remove the panel by popping all of the yellow clips loose from the door.
Once all the clips are popped out of the door, lift the panel up out of the track in the window and over the door lock. Reach in and remove the lock lever from the panel (pretty straight forward) and unplug all plugs that are attracted to the panel.
I taped over all of the plugs for an extra precaution. It's suppose to rain for the next couple of days. You don't have to do it but I did.
This is the driver door. The same process is done for all other doors.
Unplug all plugs and remove the window switches by prying the tabs you see in the picture below.
Once all the tabs are loose, pull the side facing you straight down. It will come right out.
For the mirror adjuster knob, push the silver clip in and push up on the bottom of the whole thing. It will pop right out through the other side.
Do the same for all the other doors. The rear doors only have 2 screws (1 screw hidden underneath the rubber mat inside the upper door handle).
Now, here is a video for removing the center console switches. (Not my video)
Here is a look at some of the center console plugs that tried to give me a hard time. The pictures will help you figure out how to remove them.
The red tab slides up. This one took the longest.
These are the 2 outlet plugs. You can look at the pictures and see how they are suppose to be removed.
Pictures & Write-Up with iPhone 4s
Jeep: 2005 WK | OME Lift Kit & 1.5 Rear Coil Spacers (3" of lift front & rear) | 255/75/17 BF Goodrich Mud Terrain KM1 on stock wheels (no spacers) | SCT Tuner with 93 Octane Tune | Fastman TB | K&N 77 Series | Pioneer 7" Double Din | Pioneer D-Series 6 Speaker Upgrade | Custom Rear Peek-A-Boo Camera | 5K TRS XB35 HID Bulbs & Mini Morimoto Retrofitted Projectors | Parking Lights Deleted | PIAA 510 in OEM foglight location modded for OEM foglight harness | 6K V-LEDS Reverse | 5K V-LEDS License Plate | 6K V-LEDS Interior | Custom Overhead Console Blue Ambient Light | LXHarness Complete Blue Interior Upgrade | 5% on top of 20% Tint & 50% on the whole windshield | Debadged Bike: 2009 Yamaha Raven R1 | CrossPlane | Far from stock | Quicker/Faster than your SRT
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to lll2for3lll For This Useful Post:
id agree to remove the door panel for the rear/door switches but the front two doors i was able to pop them out and disconnect/reconnect both sides in less than 20 minutes. i didnt break anything and i got them sitting flush.
FAWK...I broke a tab on my passenger front door window bezel when removing. Now I have to take my driver's side off, and with Rob saying he broke tabs with the pannels removed it sounds like im kinda screwed. I have to install my new interior pieces so any help is appreciated. I have taken the center stack and dash off so that should be no problem...its the drivers bezel i'm worried about