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2012 SRT8 Factory Sub Replacement

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2012 srt srt8
7K views 15 replies 4 participants last post by  Radknight 
#1 ·
I am going to try to one for one the 10 in the back. I happen to have one laying around so I could be 300 in and hope for a decent sound, but I have a few questions.

I have searched high and low, and I can't find that anyone has done this. If anyone has, what kind of mounting depth do I have to play with? Could someone measure theirs?

I know the stock box for the SRT AUDIO is 20 Liters (.7 ft^3), so it should be ok for a low-powered 10 inch subwoofer.

I plan on using sound-deadener in and out to strengthen and get rid of some of the rattles.

If anyone has any tips or pointers I am completely open to suggestions. I want this to become a thread where a replacement 10 doesn't cost $1000... I will update when I can as I am sure this could benefit many members.

Fire away!
 
#2 ·
UPDATE:

Since there are so many suggestions, and the fact that putting in an LOC without having the factory subwoofer attached causes the factory amp to cut that channel in and out, I will be starting off soft.

I don't know the impedance of the factory subwoofer, or if there is a product to trick the amp into thinking it is there so I will start slowly. Getting products over to Germany takes a bit, so don't expect anything crazy right away. Additionally, my tests will be purely subjective and not scientific.

I just ordered 1LB of polyfill and 12 square feet of 80mil FATMAT. That is where I will start, to see if I can do something that costs $50 to try and improve the sound. Cost vs Output will be my aim, once again.
 
#3 ·
I am interested in your results. I really like the upgraded HK sound system, but I have gotten quite a bit of clipping while playing music lately. This mostly happens in the front right door speaker, but if I decide to change anything out, I would like to upgrade the sub as well.
 
#4 ·
Stuff came in.

12 sq ft of FatMat
1 lb poly fill

I will take pictures and give my review soon. I am hoping to calm the huge rattle I have back there in the sub panel. I think it will make it sound better just doing that.


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#5 · (Edited)
So pictures first...

Vehicle Car Automotive exterior Auto part Trunk
remove this step and pull the door surround loose.

Vehicle Vehicle door Car Automotive exterior Car seat


Electronics Audio equipment Vehicle audio Auto part Technology
The subwoofer in all of its glory... There are three 10mm nuts holding it on, a deep socket is needed here.

Auto part Vehicle audio Audio equipment Electronics Font
Torx T25 to take out the screws. You will have to pry a bit, as the sub is held in by double sided tape.

Automotive tire Tire Auto part
Lightly packed with poly fill (1/2 of the 1 lb bag in all crevices)

Motor vehicle Auto part Trunk Vehicle Automotive exterior
Wrap the whole box with dynamat or equivalent.

Sound is much more deep and punchy. I also put some deadener on the subwoofer grille panel. This is the first time I have heard bass come from behind me, actually out of the subwoofer. I also solved the rattle which was a rivet on the cover panel not melted down at all and was hitting the subwoofer surround.

I think this is worth while to do as it will hold me over for now. As a side note, there are some yellow clips, which may break but no worries. They don't hold the panel very much, and fatmat over the contact area works great no rattles.

Any questions just ask.



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#7 ·
I used a product called FatMat from amazon. It is still rubber based and not asphalt like roofing material. It was cheaper, and came with the roller, and worked really good.

After listening to the stereo for a while, it really sounds better. The rattles were doing the most bad, but the bass sounds so much cleaner and deeper than it did before. This is a great way for people to increase response without spending $1000 for good bass. Note that this will not outplay a stand-alone high-powered setup, but for the people who are almost happy with it, this is your ticket.


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#10 ·
Yea I know it. I thought the rattle was in the driver's door, guess not. There aren't any hidden screws, but there are a few panels on top of the subwoofer cover quarter panel trim.

You will have to pry up the farthest rear panel, the one that covers the latch for the rear hatch. It won't come off all the way, but being unclipped is enough to get the big panel out from under it.

Also if you have a spare tire, you will have to get your fingers way under and lift the outer spare tire "bucket" as it has some clips that go down through the subwoofer panel also.

After this it is all clips patience and confidence.

Motor vehicle Vehicle Auto part Car Automotive exterior

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Vehicle door Motor vehicle


Hope those help describe what I am saying.


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#12 ·
Great write up. This is exactly what I planned on doing. Did you say you replaced the subwoofer or did you use the existing? I was actually thinking of replacing the 10 with a proper 8" but want to see what some FatMat, Polyfil and maybe bracing will do first.
 
#14 ·
Sounds like a plan. I was thinking eventually replacing all speakers and only running a LOC to a rear sub amp and a custom sub enclosure. Nothin crazy like 1000 watts though. I'm more into SQ than SPL so something about half the size should work. :)

You should check out that Soundman series on YouTube where they do a 2013 Jeep SRT. good for some ideas at least. They even revisit and run Ipad.
 
#15 ·
Already subscribed to soundman. If I was going to do things like you are saying, I would replace the head unit (I probably will as uconnect is not too much different from the Bluetooth systems in most head-units now.

They have a PAC rp4-ch11 for radio and steering-wheel controls, and chyrvd for rear DVD integration and backup camera.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Gnasty, just finished doing the same this weekend. Thanks for the tips. I replaced the broken panel yellow clips with some universal ones from a local auto store.

I wrapped mine in 12 sqft of 80 mil FatMat Rattle Trap off ebay for $70 and only put about half of the polyfil you did. Wrapping it is a lot harder than it looks. Took me about 3 hours but I am a bit OCD and cut the fatmat all nice like with pair of heavy duty scissors. It's actually easier to cut with a Stanley Utility knife as you can just throw the blade away instead of cleaning the scissors with turps ever five mins. Plus your hands will appreciate it. My thumbs are still numb from using scissors

Have to say that it does sound better and has more punch. I was a bit pissed off with the size of the speaker wire from the amp however it's CCA (copper coated aluminum) so it's smaller, lighter and less expensive than the copper equivalent. I now question how many watts that 900 watt amp is though and how much goes to the sub. I'm thinking its more like 400 peak and have to wonder how much is allocated to the 2 x 6x9s and the 10" sub as it doesn't exactly meet the 40/60 rule of amps. I'm going to get used to it but am thinking of replacing the 'sub' with a shallow one. The one that came with it couldn't have cost more than $20.

The more we learn, the less we know about.

Anyway, great job GNasty. Thanks for putting in the hard yards on this for us.
 
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